[moose]

Due to tedious work issues, I have hastily booked two short stays in the Lakes (3 and 4 days each) - one this week based in Kendal, the other at the end of the month in Keswick.   Any recommendations for crags to visit and problems to try?  I'm looking for a few nice warm-ups in the 6s, and some quality low / mid 7s to siege.  I'll be on my own with a couple of pads, so not keen for places with terrible landings (especially if the walk-in is so fierce, I would try to get away with one pad and a sit mat).

Nearish Keswick, I've already been to Carrock and the Bowderstone, and re Kendal I'm familiar with the South Lakes limestone. I've got the new Lakes guide and have a few ideas but it's hard to tell what's genuinely good, and what's winningly photographed choss!   E.g. Virtual Crag (Tilberthwaite) looks promising - 10 minute walk-in, and the guide makes it look Bowderstone-esque, but I have a suspicion I'll just find a load of 2-metre high sits starts, pulling on shale!  Lad Stones (Warstarter, pr0n Star face), Seathwaite (Thoroughbred Wall), and Sour Milk looks interesting too.  Or should, I just pull myself together for the walk to Sampson Stones?

[teestub]

Worth bearing in mind when looking at Greg’s guide that the approach times seem to be based on him jogging down hill unladen 😂

I’d say Lad Stones is probably the archetype for long walk in and bad landings, although it’s not that far, the landings are pretty shocking.

Badger Rock at Kentmere might fit your requirements? The Hole and the Weasel problems also worth doing. Tourniquet is obviously great, but need some conditions for that. The More? bakery and Hawkshead Brewery in Staveley are also excellent bookends to a Kentmere trip.

[moose]

Noted re Lad Stones.  I'm increasingly cautious about landings these days, so a long walk to be too scared to commit to moves would be worth avoiding.

Kentmere could be promising, although, Tourniquet is well above my pay-grade!  I've been once to do Badger Arete but the only non-Badger Rock problem I've done is Negative Reality Inversion.  It's at the outer limit of day-raid territory for me, so there'd be the possibility of a non-holiday return for unfinished business too (though, perhaps that suggests I'd be taking insufficient advantage of staying overnight in the area).

[tomtom]

My folks live in Kendal.

TStub is on the money with Kentmere. Esp during midweek when you may actually be able to park there :D

Langdale boulders are only 30 min away if traffic behaves - chapel style circuit there too.

Also Humphrey head is that side of the estuary (only ever been for a walk there not climbed).

[AJM]

Re Virtual Crag - I went there on Monday and had a good time. There are a few videos on the interweb:
https://vimeo.com/betabouldering/technobabble7a
and a number of others from the same account. A video of me nearly succeeding is here:
https://www.instagram.com/p/CQHUNiZDlW6/?utm_medium=copy_link
Between those you hopefully get enough perspective to get a fuller pic of the crag than guide photos provide. It is bowderstone esque, the guide is right, in that it's steep, fairly good holds, a sort of "indoor climbing outdoors" basic sort of style.

I'm not sure if you were thinking about this from Keswick or Kendal, but if the latter then it's worth noting that St Bees is about the same distance to drive due to being better roads.

[moose]

Cheers for the videos - Virtual Crag's not beautiful but the climbing looks like good, basic fun - decent for a day of bagging a few 7a-bs at the very least.  I'll keep it on the list.

I'm not sure if you were thinking about this from Keswick or Kendal, but if the latter then it's worth noting that St Bees is about the same distance to drive due to being better roads.

Presumably you mean the former? Googlemaps says St Bees is around 50 mins from Keswick but 1 hr 45 from Kendal.  I've never been to St Bees as the distance and unforgiving looking landings have put me off.  It looks beautiful though, so I I guess should consider a trip during my Keswick stay.

[tomtom]

Isn’t hellboy or something like that nr Chapel Style - that new ish low overhanging wall?

Also moose - knowing we have similar problem requirements (height + knack rather than strength 😁) there’s a 7C at HH that looks like a soft touch…

[AJM]

Presumably you mean the former? Googlemaps says St Bees is around 50 mins from Keswick but 1 hr 45 from Kendal.  I've never been to St Bees as the distance and unforgiving looking landings have put me off.  It looks beautiful though, so I I guess should consider a trip during my Keswick stay.

I did, of course! About 50min versus maybe 45 to Virtual.

Others are certainly better qualified to discuss St Bees than me but whilst it's all rock landings plenty of them are very flat.

[moose]

Isn’t hellboy or something like that nr Chapel Style - that new ish low overhanging wall?

Also moose - knowing we have similar problem requirements (height + knack rather than strength 😁) there’s a 7C at HH that looks like a soft touch…

Hellboy is at Hell Moss, which is indeed near Chapel Head.  I've done Functional Junkie there (supposedly 7b+, nasty fingertip undercutting).  I had a quick look at Hell Boy - I was too tired and the holds were too soapy to give it a good go, but there's a heinous cross-through that would probably defeat the best version of me.

[Will Hunt]

I wasn't especially impressed with Kentmere on the occasion that I visited. Badger Rock has that one OK problem but it was far from stellar. I liked trying Karma of Trees but I don't think you'd like it, Moose! The bit where Tourniquet and Runs on Weasel are actually has a big drop behind the landing and I wouldn't want to fall off the end of any of those problems (they're far from undroppable) without a spotter.

My slight disappointment may be a product of the phenomenon whereby any collection of boulders or problems which references Font in the name invariably fails to live up to expectations.

[moose]

I liked trying Karma of Trees but I don't think you'd like it, Moose!

Is that less a comment on my kinaesthetic tastes, and more a nice way of saying "you're too shit to climb a 7c"! [which would probably also be correct].

[Bradders]

The bit where Tourniquet and Runs on Weasel are actually has a big drop behind the landing and I wouldn't want to fall off the end of any of those problems (they're far from undroppable) without a spotter.

You're just thinking of the Runs on Weasel block there. The landing on Tourniquet is pretty flat and no drop. Doable with a big pad, a medium and a sitter. The lines going direct from the start of Tourniquet and via a higher diagonal line are okay, with reasonable two pad landings.

But yeah, Font it ain't.

[Will Hunt]

I liked trying Karma of Trees but I don't think you'd like it, Moose!

Is that less a comment on my kinaesthetic tastes, and more a nice way of saying "you're too shit to climb a 7c"! [which would probably also be correct].

Very much the former.

[Fiend]

Gillercombe. Lovely secluded spot, nice easy-mid circuit, a few trickier things to lose skin on.

[moose]

Gillercombe. Lovely secluded spot, nice easy-mid circuit, a few trickier things to lose skin on.

Cheers - Sour Milk was on the radar for my Keswick stay, but I'll look into Gillercombe.

[highrepute]

Based on where I've been to in the Lakes as a tourist - if I were acting as a tour guide this is where I'd take you... I've excluded south lakes limestone as assume that's not what you're after here.

Kendal

Kentmere is the obvious one. If you've been there then you know what to expect - it's vaguely shady which is good if it's hot.

Langdale (possibly with chapel stile). Very short walk, good landings and very good selection of problems. If you've not been then you should definitely go

Keswick

Sour Milk bouldering is really good (i've never done this but could be combined with Gillercombe). Proper Lakes experience reasonable walk, open vista and feels properly in the fells.

Bowderstone - for obvious reasons. I always feel guilty going here. Like I should be hiking in to sampson stone or something, and I have access to 50 degree boards at home so why go here? but it really is the best climbing of it's kind and shouldn't be missed - especially if you've not been there.

I think echos what other have said.

[tomtom]

When you're at Keswick - go up to Castelrigg stone circle at either dawn or dusk.. esp if you're there for midsummer! Good for some druid vibes

[Fiend]

Gillercombe easy circuit and scenery, note the two shitty old skool Pod mats...

[yetix]

Last time I went to Kentmere run on weasels landing had been improved.

Virtual is a poor man's bowderstone, but stays dry during rain(eventually gets run off at the top)

St bees has plenty of good flat landings that only need a few pads (undercooke, clash of the titans, huecco crack (may want a spot just for confidence at height here) etc

Lad stones is probably a team venue, but one of the best that the Lakes has to offer. Done this walk in in Similiar time to the guide, by basically walking in a straight line and avoiding the approach notes haha (the location is easy to find on Google maps if you decide to walk in a straight line)

Sour milk, gillercombe and honnister are all good, the latter 2 have options for a solo session with a couple of pads imo, sour milk some stuff you might want a party for depending how much you like to pad ground coverage on easish moves (lambrini girl etc)

Bowderstone at high repute says

Sampson stones, probabaly a team venue really imo. 75 mins is the best I've done this walk in in.

Seathwaite is great. Nice landings etc, I took 2 pads for that block. Clousy weather is the one there (same for harter in the summer imo)

[moose]

Thank you for all the advice.  I'm currently in a B&B near Kendal,  after a session at Tilberthwaite. I thoroughly enjoyed myself there but felt a bit of a pervert for doing so.

Current plan is to go to Kentmere tomorrow - take advantage of the ability to get an early, midweek start. If the weather's good, aim for Seathwaite on Saturday. Forecast for Sunday looks awful, so I'm resigned to a probable Southern limestone hit on the way back.

For Keswick next week,  some combo of Sour milk, gillercombe and honnister for at least one day looks really promising.  I'll hopefully also get to St Bees.

[AJM]

Thank you for all the advice.  I'm currently in a B&B near Kendal,  after a session at Tilberthwaite. I thoroughly enjoyed myself there but felt a bit of a pervert for doing so.

A  pleasure?

 

[moose]

Possibly.  I found myself even viewing a spectacular flying dismount after a finishing jug shattered, as part of the jolie laide charm of the place!

[AJM]

Possibly.  I found myself even viewing a spectacular flying dismount after a finishing jug shattered, as part of the jolie laide charm of the place!

No injury I hope?! Which problem?

[andy popp]

I'm resigned to a probable Southern limestone hit on the way back.

But in my very limited experience south Lakes limestone is fab.

[moose]

Possibly.  I found myself even viewing a spectacular flying dismount after a finishing jug shattered, as part of the jolie laide charm of the place!

No injury I hope?! Which problem?

Uninjured thankfully.  It was one of the mass of spiky jugs at the top of Technobabble - I was using it to lower myself down after finishing.  I don't think the problem is significantly changed.

[moose]

Possibly.  I found myself even viewing a spectacular flying dismount after a finishing jug shattered, as part of the jolie laide charm of the place!

No injury I hope?! Which problem?

Uninjured thankfully.  It was one of the mass of spiky jugs at the top of Technobabble - I was using it to lower myself down after finishing.  I don't think the problem is significantly changed.

And for your entertainment, here's the event.  I was there (obviously) but still feel the suspense when I watch myself suddenly propelled from view.... did I survive my unexpected dismount?!

[spidermonkey09]

Brilliant! Impressed that you just took it in your stride and didn't even shout in alarm. Love the shirt as well.

[moose]

Cheers. The shirt was a birthday present from my brother, a couple of days ago.  A bit of a Cuban, "Al Pacino" in Scarface vibe.  After decades of only wearing plain black or dark blue,  I've recently started to wear brightly patterned shirts and video myself. Not sure if I'm having a harmless mid life crisis, or if I've become a monstrous, egotistical, show pony.

[Jackob]

I was at kentmere today and the midges were absolutely horrendous!

[webbo]

You had look of Oz out of  Auf Wiedersehen pet walking back to turn the camera off.
Classic.

[thekettle]

Bit late to the party sorry Moose but:
Gouther crag bouldering in Swindale is another to add to your potential list, some very good problems, and a good summer venue being high up and getting little sun. Also often dry when central Lakes is wet. Needs a breeze to be midge free. JMascis/Coconutter feels quite spooky without a spotter (flat landing but highball), but the rest is ok solo with 2 pads.
Other spots to consider are:
Long Crag Wrynose (not to be confused with Long Scar Wrynose). It's midge free, high up but a 20 min walk in. Needs cloud cover in summer, fine solo with one pad.
Rolling Rock near Ullswater: Generally midge free, high up, 40 min walk. Needs 2 pads if solo and a pair of tent stakes is handy to prevent involuntary pad-tobogganing rides.
If you head to Sampson Stones, it's far less strenuous to approach from Cockley Beck (between Hardknott and Wrynose Pass) up the Mosedale valley, about 150m less vertical height gain than the epic guidebook approach  It's the same way any sane traddie approaches Esk Buttress or East Butress.
I'm tradding at Gouther tomorrow so I'll keep an eye out for you.

[Fiend]

Good work Moose, I like the zombie-shuffle back on screen.

[willdcc]

Also late to the party but imagine there will be people reading this post at some point looking for similar information in the future.

Despite the reputation of the Lad Stones I would argue there are quite a few problems that can be done (relatively) safely on your own with a couple of pads. Take with a pinch of salt, and not that I've done them all but to name a few:

- Lard Lad
- Hades Lair
- Rocko's Modern Life should feel pretty comfortable above limited pads once you've done Hades.
- Artois. It's a bit high but landing is flat and it's over when you hit the jug.
- Shyla Stylez
- From the Earth's Couldron/Black Couldron
- Traci Lords (I imagine)
- Probably others... I've only been once.

Heading up there this afternoon by myself and will delete this post if I end up having to do the long, boggy crawl back to the car park.

For what it's worth virtual crag will keep you entertained but don't spend a holiday there.

[moose]

For what it's worth virtual crag will keep you entertained but don't spend a holiday there.

Judging from my first session, an entire holiday at Virtual Crag would leave it bereft of holds.

I followed up Virtual Crag with a shortish session at Kentmere (notable for the crimpiest 6c warm up ever). Today was Dunnerdale; which was nice... once I found the boulders (on my third quest up  steep, densely forested hillside).

I'm grateful for your tips about Lad Stones, and I'd be interested to hear how you found the landings. There and Seathwaite are on the list for any revisit to the area. 

[moose]

I ended  up at Dunnerdale, rather than Seathwaite as initially planned, because I was already knackered and tempted by the promise of a good 7b, not far from a bridleway.  After three walks up and down the overgrown hillside, I found the rock I sought. Lovely rough crimps and worth the midge bites; recommended.  Lad Stones and Seathwaite are definitely on the wishlist for hypotheticical cooler yet dry times.  Why do I only visit the Lakes in summer, when the bracken is high, the midges voracious, and the rock is slippery? 

Keswick area next week; hoping to get to St Bees, or at least Gillercombe / Sour Milk.  Although, a reacquaintance with the Bowderstone that isn't a humiliating reminder of my decrepitude would be fine.

[willdcc]

Nice work. Wilding does look worthy of a midge bite or two.

Unfortunately I didn't manage to climb high enough to put myself at risk at Lad Stones. Mostly scrabbled around on the floor. However it was a nice temperature on Sunday afternoon and am yet to see a midge there.

Edit: If you want to go and put some pads underneath Secret Garden while in Keswick and the conditions are up to it then let me know

[cheque]

You had look of Oz out of  Auf Wiedersehen pet walking back to turn the camera off.
Classic.

I was thinking more Kramer from Seinfeld. Amazing clip either way.