[BrutusTheBear]

All being well I am off on a grand tour of Scotland with the wife and chidlers in August.  This includes 7 days in Lochgoilhead from 11th to 18th.
Realise that there is plenty of bouldering in the vicinity, I am likely to be with a single pad and short for time. So lowball quality with minimal walk ins would be ideal.  Any beta would be appreciated and am I going to be eaten alive by midges?

[Fiend]

x 25,000,000,000,000

Loads to do around there. Head up to Rest And Be Thankful and Glen Croe, all details should in the Scottish bouldering book, plenty for a single pad adventurer, on both sides of the Glen (South side has easier approaches). Glen Croe could get plenty of breeze going down it if you're lucky. Even better would be to chuck the kids in Loch Lomond at Inveruglas and trot up to Loch Sloy for some better stuff (longer walk but on a good road, you could jog it if you're so inclined / wrong in the head).

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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mtpc7cjuYiA - Sloy
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sz6BTRN_rL8 - Restil
https://youtu.be/pvLxgj8h8UI?t=35 - Croe
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DYhFlNjwj9w - Croe
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HgddR_0mFaw - Restil
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o2yOX6HFzxc - Restil
A few mostly easier things that might give you an idea of the settings and styles, also you might just want an easier circuit whilst you're running and screaming in between blocs trying to escape the actual thunderclouds of midgies

[SA Chris]

It's pretty full on midgie wise!

Have you looked on UKC? There are quite a few choices, depending on what your allowed escape limit for time / distance is.

[BrutusTheBear]

Thanks Fiend, I shall check out your videos in due course. Fingers crossed for a strong breeze blowing a hooley up the valley.
Crag maps on UKC was the first port of call once the itenary had been set Chris.  We'll actually end up right up north as I have relatives in Thurso but mostly short stays apart from the week in Lochgoilhead.
Particularly looking for recommendations of class problems up to 7bish that aren't too high/intimidating, Glen Croe seems like the obvious choice for nipping out for an evening boulder, although it sounds like I'll need a bit of luck to avoid being midgee supper

[Fultonius]

Also, be aware that glencroe is the wrong side of the never ending roadworks at the rest and be thankful. Sounds like it's a bit better than during the winter (40min wait for convoy), so it might still be doable. You'll get a feel for it first time you head over.

[Thomnomnom]

The premium 7B lowball in Glen Croe is probably Swap Meet, not very inspiring but it could be a workout. Ace of Spades could be doable with one pad and is a brilliant burly 7A+ (but harder than Swap Meet imo) on the same side of the glen. And if you have a little more time for a 45 minute walk in, the Kennedy Boulder on the other side of the glen has a range of great problems from the 6s to mid-7s all of a good height with decent grassy landings, usually in the shade and right in the breeze.

Kennedy Boulder & Ace of Spades on vid here:

For an esoteric option near Lochgoilhead there's some mid-7s bouldering at the Anvil, but I've never been. Vid here: . It's also a decent walk though.

And there's a 7A+(ish) arete at the Carrick Castle boulders which are also very close to you. Probably only worth it if you're looking at other stuff there though (7C>).

[Bradders]

And there's a 7A+(ish) arete at the Carrick Castle boulders which are also very close to you. Probably only worth it if you're looking at other stuff there though (7C>).

Time wise from Lochgoilhead this will probably be your easiest access, and Marratime Arete (the 7A+) is really very good indeed. On the right arete of the boulder the stand start to Cruachan is supposedly 7C but really 7B if you don't make it massively eliminate, and gives very good steep climbing. Both might feel a little spicy with one pad (isn't everything?) but the landings aren't bad (left arete a bit slopey but nice and soft).

Jenny's Bay is definitely not a one pad problem but it is one of the best 7Cs you'll ever see.

Plus a nice opportunity to goggle at the outrageous bit of climbing that is Marratime (and Cruachan Sit for that matter).

There's not much there, but what there is is pretty amazing stuff.

Video psyche:

[BrutusTheBear]

  Cheers everyone.. Excited about the trip in general but if I manage to get some bouldering in that'll be a great bonus.

[SA Chris]

If you are tat close, go and have a look at the Anvil? meant to be quite a cool looking bit of rock.

[iain]

If you've got access to one a bike really cuts down the Anvil approach time, memory's hazy but maybe an hour's walk.
It's a gravel track and the Anvil is really close to it.

Good luck with the bouldering.


Does anyone know if there's been much other development apart from the Anvil and Carrock Castle? I now have a set of parents there and there looks to be some potential on the hills but I'd be surprised if folk haven't looked already.

[SA Chris]

https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/leepers_range_the_butt-24496#photos

looks fun and accessible?

[Fiend]

That Dan V video is cool, love the beta dance for Marra Time. That kneebarring on the SS project tho, ffs I thought he liked hard moves...

[BrutusTheBear]

https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/leepers_range_the_butt-24496#photos

looks fun and accessible?

Yeah. I saw this one it's right in the village, it looks really accessible for my wife (whom uses a mobility scooter) and for the chidlers to have a go at the bouldering. There's mention of projects too and it's nice of them to platform out the landing so well!

[BrutusTheBear]

If you've got access to one a bike really cuts down the Anvil approach time, memory's hazy but maybe an hour's walk.
It's a gravel track and the Anvil is really close to it.

Good luck with the bouldering.


Does anyone know if there's been much other development apart from the Anvil and Carrock Castle? I now have a set of parents there and there looks to be some potential on the hills but I'd be surprised if folk haven't looked already.

  Thanks Iain. Fingers crossed the weather plays ball and keeps the midges at bay.

[SA Chris]

https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/leepers_range_the_butt-24496#photos

looks fun and accessible?

Yeah. I saw this one it's right in the village, it looks really accessible for my wife (whom uses a mobility scooter) and for the chidlers to have a go at the bouldering. There's mention of projects too and it's nice of them to platform out the landing so well!

Looks like a bit of a community project...