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Power Club 586 31 May - 6 Jun 2021 (Read 5404 times)

Stabbsy

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Ha, even more stout at E2 when I did it!

Its a funny route isn't it. I thought it probably was E2 right up to that final crux section around the top overlap, which is only protected by the ancient peg. Entirely possible I missed a hold or some gear though, especially in full sun for the top bit!
Possibly not, I've followed it since and it still felt hard. Did Tangerine Dream the same day and that was more straightforward IMO.

Its probably no harder than 6c if we're honest, just pumpy.
[Massive generalisation] I think that could apply to a lot of the E5s in Pembroke - largely in the F6c - F7a range. Similar for a lot of the North Wales ones I've done. Very few things I've done that felt physically harder, Golden Mile at Chee Tor being the one that stands out. [/Massive generalisation]

duncan

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Getting scared on E5s is a much more representative metric of my ability  :lol: I wasted a lot of time /energy through not being slick placing wires on that bottom bit, which I'd like to think would be mostly down to being out of practice. It also felt a lot more 'traddy' in style; lots of layaways, fingerlocks and sidepulls and awkward positions, which I was crap at even when trad climbing a lot and am even worse at now!  Its probably no harder than 6c if we're honest, just pumpy; still a good effort doing it with a fairly narrow margin though, I think I'd have been off for sure a few years ago.


6c to top-rope sounds about right. Taking time at the start is totally normal, the crucial gear is tricky.

Beta:
NSFW  :
Finding and having confidence in the blindly placed wire, to the left of the blobs, makes all the difference.


Fiend

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Nice Rob, very jealous of Ultimate Warrior
Two good 6C/+s on the boulder in the woods near the parking...

Thanks Duma, yes, I can't think of anything I've done that's better. Nothing else there but definitely worth a visit if you're ever in the area.

andy popp

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Ha, even more stout at E2 when I did it!

Its a funny route isn't it. I thought it probably was E2 right up to that final crux section around the top overlap, which is only protected by the ancient peg. Entirely possible I missed a hold or some gear though, especially in full sun for the top bit!

Possibly not, I've followed it since and it still felt hard. Did Tangerine Dream the same day and that was more straightforward IMO.

Fascinating how people's skills sets have changed. In the 80s TD was still seen as a pretty stern challenge and Quiet Waters was kind of trade routey (obviously the peg was still new though).

remus

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Fascinating how people's skills sets have changed. In the 80s TD was still seen as a pretty stern challenge and Quiet Waters was kind of trade routey (obviously the peg was still new though).

To be honest I think the condition of the peg will have had more of an effect than anything else. I did Quiet Waters and Tangerine Dream about a year apart and TD definitely felt more physical, whereas QW just felt scary because the peg looked shit (this was about 8 years ago, I can only imagine it's in an even more dire state now) and you'd go for a flyer if it snapped.

JohnM

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Late entry...

M - Nowt

T - Ride - Run - Ride (9.58km +405m, 9.38km +686m, 9.61km +64m).

W - Vax day so did nothing under doctors orders!

T -  Ride - Run - Ride (14.1km +425m, 17.2km +1166m, 12.75km +86m).

F - Nowt (felt grotty).

S - Drove to Reims.

S - Drove to the UK.

 

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