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Power Club 587 June 7 - June 13 2021 (Read 3519 times)

duncan

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Power Club 587 June 7 - June 13 2021
June 13, 2021, 10:47:30 am
Hello everyone

M - Birthday! Gentle celebrations as befits my antiquity. Walked 13km.
T - Stronghold bouldering - ‘5c’ circuits (4 mins on; 5 mins off x 7). Got pumped, trashed skin.
W - Shoulders: side planks, horizontal ring rows, handstands, IsYsTs (approaching 45 degrees - quite hard for me). 10km walk.
T - as Wednesday.
F - And now for something completely different: Nudey Cliff (Torquay) with Fiend. Beautifully set in verdant south Devon with only the occasional jetski and mothballed cruise liner to remind you you’re not in the middle of the Mato Grosso. The crags rise out of the jungle, a deep red conglomerate of pebbles held together with what appears to be mud. The rock is a bit like the Fisher Towers in Utah or of course Ladram Bay further up the coast. Unlike the Fishers, the bolts are reassuringly substantial (many thanks tomrainbow). Warmed-up on the Bashful Buttress 6bs and 6cs. Entertaining and at the far end of what I consider climbing: the holds were covered with a fine layer of topsoil and it’s difficult to pull hard when every potato feels like it might explode out of the rock at any moment! On reflection we probably spent too much time here and should have moved on to the main wall which was very good and almost completely solid. Matt led Do You Think I’m 6c? (6b+ to 7a, according to taste). He thoughtfully brushed the chalk from the crux so I could claim an almost-onsight. It felt like a 6b+ to a rest to a 6c to a rest to a 6b, so overall...?? Finished with the Jedi Slab but it started mizzling before we could continue up the Jedi Wall. Looong drive home.
S - Tired, battered. House sale fell through (due to complete in two weeks, house half packed and ready to go). NNFN!!  Cycled with the lad, and walked 10km.
S - Still tired and battered. Gentle shoulder work and some pull-ups.


Enjoyed the Nudey Cliff, new crag number 5 for the year. It’s hard to give an unconditional recommendation but if you think you might like it you really will. Keen to get back to some of the 7as, though not sure how much more time for climbing I’ll have down here in the future. Pleased to get up Do You Think ... in good style and good to climb with Matt again.

Particularly relevant to you Matt as you're in Torbay, but I climbed at Nudey Cliff yesterday (just near Babbacombe), and on arrival at the crag realised our legs and my dog were completely crawling with ticks.  Managed to clear my legs and get trousers on, and haven't found any since.  Had to give the dog a very close trim when we got home and they were tumbling off her.

I was really quite surprised as I didn't realise there was much in the way of animal vectors in those woods below the coast path, but I won't be going down there wearing shorts again.

Also found several ticks on me whilst and after climbing here. My first known infestation.



I’ve been doing 4 x 10 mins on, 5 off on a mix of vert and steep (as that’s what I have). Move onto steep to get some pump, back onto vert to de-pump. Medium intensity. Kind of what might go on in the middle of a sustained pitch. Crucially, rather than just moving all the time, plenty of stopping in awkward positions and hanging on one arm. If you’re in a public wall you might want to avoid mimicking fiddling in a wire? Session takes 1 hour, is totally tedious, but my base aerobic fitness seems pretty decent. Yet to really test it out on anything longer than 20 metres!

Thanks for this T_B (and well done on Ninth Life, at 22 metres the training must be working!)  I’ve made a start and I’m now lasting more than 3 moves so things are going in the right direction. Not yet fit enough to stay on the stronghold board for 10 minutes but will emphasise hanging around more than moving next time. 

Do You Think .. was 90 second sprints between complete rests so manageable with my current fitness. Interestingly, I was getting pretty out of breath and this was taking as long to subside as the pump. Another post-Covid thing.   :(

Plan: more of this.

shark

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Thanks Duncan for starting the thread and your colourful and useful description of Nudey Cliff - I will never go.

Eventful week for you  :beer2: sorry to hear house purchase has fallen through  :'(


11.3-5 average 158.6 down 0.8lbs

M. PM LPT. Met Pablo. Warm and not great conditions. Warm up doing some hangs in the Cave then led UTB. Team on Statement. Knew one of them vaguely. Had to be patient to wait my turn (almost went on Bad bad boy) but worth it. Got two tie ins which went ok given the hand holds lacked bite and wasn’t getting as much out of my feet as I’ve been used to. Pretty tired and couldn’t make my mind up as to whether to have a third burn especially as the tide was nearly in. Glad I did. Bit cooler and got from below 5th to middle of the traverse.

T.

W. Met Matt Burson at Cave and did a few hangs to warm up. Props to him coming out to belay as he was injured. Warm and humid but luckily an unforecast oncrag breeze made it ok. Straight on Statement - no other suitors today. First go dogged to start of top traverse then led from there to the top perfectly skipping the last clip. First time doing this as normally takes time warm into doing the redpoint crux. Next three goes tried from below 5th bolt and got through to falling on the redpoint crux each time. Fourth attempt fell on the middle of the top traverse and with a short rest went from there to the top skipping clip again and stripped it. Didn’t quite get the link I was after but did more than double the volume of my other sessions - all told probably did about 85 moves of English 6a-6b. Definite improvement in Endurance and skin toughness.

T.

F. AM Tor with Ewa. Got there for 7.40am but still beaten by Nick and Ben. Warm and drizzled a bit. Breeze took the edge off the humidity. Push Up/BM start still wet. Dogged up Indecent and BM bolts to avoid Nick and Ben and practised moves on Anger Management which went well. Second tie got to headwall with some effort using a slippery prussik and a grigri (note to self pack a jumar) and similarly did well on the moves. Pleased with progress as conditions weren’t amazing. After had 2 goes on the throw move of Bens doing it straight off and getting through to setting up on the 3rd move of the hard section. Third go kept missing the crimp on the throw and called it a day.

S. PM Systems board. Intended to be a light AeroCap session but feeling fresh. Warm up. 8 move Gaston sequence x2 then attempted Oak PE/AnCap 28 move circuit using incut edge for throw and redpointed it first go! (think I’ve only managed this once before). Then redpointed it two more times and came off touching penultimate hold on fourth attempt. Mega! - all this outdoor climbing is proving to be excellent training for the board!

S.

Some encouraging progress this week - last week’s crisis of confidence is a distant memory. Tide in this week. No one seems game to go away anywhere next week so probably end up staying local. Probably good to ease back a bit this week - certainly feeling tired today.

yetix

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M rest
T Farley Woods. Dispatched Amarna in a few goes today, alot more subtle than it looks. Psyched.
W Split Infiitity Cave. Hooooomid! Briefly tried Bellpig, tickling the hold from the crux slap now. Headed down to pigeons cave and got on in for the race, managed all the hand moves but couldn't do a foot move (big cut), though watching vids since a diff sequence may make more sense (getting a hand hold further over to the jug... Felt spooky, but my heel was slightly further right which probs makes a difference) ... Quickly repeated left wall high at parisellas before leaving, hopefully that will stay fresh enough if I try the high life in the nearish future.
T spotting duties at Warton, nice to see my partner do Voodoo people swiftly as she's been dealing with some finger injuries lately, and so not been climbing much. I did the Sugarfix stand and link moves for Efix in a go or two after some very light fb work, just to line that one up for another day
F rest
S churnet, managed in memory of mr fox 2nd go, partner got it in 2 halves and is keen to come back. Tried Feeding the Pony at the discreet bloc, but couldn't figure how to move right hand out of the roof once on the pinch with the high heel, it felt super off balance. Quickly did Propellahead before leaving.
S parisellas, high life, first go fell off the 3rd to last move of the final crux. 2 more goes, neither as good. Briefly tried trigger with knees, did the first 2 moves, have done from the 3rd before.

Nice to get another 7C done in a style I haven't really tried for a while with projecting. Lots of lining things up as well this week. Hopefully close some more accounts soon. This week was supposed to be a lighter week as I'm off wed-sun next week... Will just have to rest Monday and Tuesday and hopefully that'll do!

moose

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T spotting duties at Warton, nice to see my partner do Voodoo people swiftly as she's been dealing with some finger injuries lately, and so not been climbing much. I did the Sugarfix stand and link moves for Efix in a go or two after some very light fb work, just to line that one up for another day

The last time I tried to climb at Warton, I spent around 1.5 hours yomping around in the boiling sun, completely failing to find the crag and getting very angry and torn by brambles.  This was a bit unexpected, as the only other time I had visited (around 8 years previously), I found the crag with no problems!  I might have to risk another Aguirre - Wrath of God style walk-in as I am in need of some limestone projects.

Bradders

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M - PM wide pull ups, rings prone Ts, dumbbell shoulder press and hammer curls, then 3x 5 mins on, 3 mins off on easy circuit with low pump.

Tu - rest

W - AM max hangs, shambles session. Kept 4x full crimp 10mm hangs at bodyweight hoping this would help on the heavier half crimp stuff but nope. Did 6x Lattice edge hangs half crimp +25kg but only hit the target 10s a couple of times. At lunchtime I had a board session which conversely was pretty good; felt snappy on things and did a couple of problems I'd failed on last week. Probably just better fueled than first thing. Did an hour on medium level stuff, then did 8x a 12 move problem and managed it 5/8.

Th - Kilnsey with Spidermonkey. Bolt to bolt up Alternative Extra Option to warm up, then did it next go. Had a flash attempt at The Last Gasp Finish and, disappointingly, dropped it with a move to go as I just couldn't see the hold I needed to go to! Did it fairly comfortably next time. Finished with a quick attempt at repeating WYSIWYG and did it in 3 sections.

F - lunchtime conditioning, mainly rotator cuff exercises

Sa - Kilnsey with Spidermonkey. Arrived late after a busy morning and dreadful traffic on the way. Bolt to bolt up Quiet Flight Direct to warm up, then did it next go. Lovely, lovely route, enjoyed it a lot. Cross through move is amazing. Next went up Dominatrix, which I've been very intimidated by for a while. First go was awful; hated every second of it, came down wanting to quit sport climbing and slagging the route off. Immediately went into a bit of a grump. Thankfully managed to convince myself to have another go, which was much better; linked it from the ground to the groove boulder, then there to the rest below the last roof and finally did the top when I put my feet in the right place.

Su - AM 5x 6s 10mm half crimp hangs +15kg. First three were okay but struggled with last two. Then board session on weakness problems. Crossovers was great, did it all three goes. Shoulder engagement not so good but tried hard and felt like I was getting into my shoulders well. Bit spent on undercuts and did the moves but not close to linking; slightly disappointing after last week's success. Finished with 8x 1 min on, 1 min off, foot on campus ladders. Did them all, although last set touch and go. 

Good week, glad to get a few more routes in the bag at Kilnsey and to have faced my fears on one of the longer routes too. Way out of my comfort zone! Keen to stick with it.
« Last Edit: June 13, 2021, 09:51:07 pm by Bradders »

tomtom

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T spotting duties at Warton, nice to see my partner do Voodoo people swiftly as she's been dealing with some finger injuries lately, and so not been climbing much. I did the Sugarfix stand and link moves for Efix in a go or two after some very light fb work, just to line that one up for another day

The last time I tried to climb at Warton, I spent around 1.5 hours yomping around in the boiling sun, completely failing to find the crag and getting very angry and torn by brambles.  This was a bit unexpected, as the only other time I had visited (around 8 years previously), I found the crag with no problems!  I might have to risk another Aguirre - Wrath of God style walk-in as I am in need of some limestone projects.

😂😂😂 that’s EXACTLY my last Warton experience! Except I managed to pick up a few ticks too!

moose

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I've got no idea whether or not I even started from the correct carpark! It was one of those days....

RobK

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Nice work with Dominatrix, Bradders. Certainly one of many at Kinsey I'm keen for but haven't got round to trying yet.

M – Day out at Ruthin, a funny little venue with ‘routes’ about 10m long. Always good fun though. Spent a few hours ticking through the middle buttress, five routes between 6c+ and 7a. Very nice.

T – 30 minute run followed by some press ups and door frame pull ups.

W – Power hour on the board. Realised that last Sunday was the first time I’d climbed properly on the board in quite a while, enjoying getting back in the groove. Had to spend quite a while tightening all the holds up, maybe something to do with the increase in temperature recently? Finished with 10 x 5 on the minute pull ups.

T – Llanddulas after work. There was a BBC film crew in the main cave when we arrived (they wouldn’t tell us what they were filming) so we moved on to tower buttress. My friend wanted to try Tenacious T 7b so I went up and put the draws in that. A very awkward lower boulder problem into fantastic, sustained climbing, certainly felt 7b+ though which was corroborated by UKC votes. Had a redpoint and came off just after the boulder problem having forgotten about a crucial hold. Took a five minute break and had a second attempt. Unsurprisingly feeling more tired this time but fought through the boulder only to be robbed a move short of a good rest by a foot pop. No time for any more as we ran out of light. Keen to get back soon to finish it off and take a look at some of the other lines.

F – Out with the girlfriend in the van, a nice walk round Llyn Idwal and Ogwen.

S – Power hour on the board in the evening. Followed by 5 x 5s lock offs each side with three minute rests. Hard, when did I get so bad at these?! I’ve never really tried them before so maybe I was always rubbish!

S – Rest. Although spent the whole day re-sanding the driveway and gardening, so not very restful.

Enjoying the continued break from projecting and getting out on more amenable routes. Also enjoying just climbing on the board in the evenings when I fancy it and not doing any form of fingerboard training. 

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W/C 7/6/21

M - Running, Depot, deadlifts and pulls, stretching and yoga, abs/core, low intensity edge pulls
T - Running training, chest and compressions, abs, campus, yoga, max hangs, steep roof, stretching, cardio
W - Abs/core, pulls, yoga and stretching, Density hangs, volume bouldering, run, bike, more stretching
T - Chest and compression, running training, abs, campus, max hangs, steep roof, bike, yoga and stretching
F -Run, yoga and stretching, abs, Manchester, shoulders and arms, cardio
S - Run, yoga and stretching, bike hard rollouts
S - Legs, yoga and stretching, abs, cardio

Back to it after a light week last week.

M - Up early to get out running. Short run with 3x3 minute at threshold pace.
Depot for social session. Repeat lots of already done purples and pinks, players big with missing holds out and concentrating on power and technique. Get a couple of new ones done and good progress on others. Despite doing little new stuff feels a good session.
Weights are deadlifts and pulls. Start with deadlifts for singles finishing with three sets at a steady 140. One arm pull downs for three reps up to 50k on each arm, followed by one arm locks for 30 seconds at full, 90 and 120 with 30k. Do some scapular exercises and finish with velocity pulls, although by that stage of the game, they are missing any real snap.
Get home to start stretches. Stretching for calves, sciatic nerve and upper body, whilst today’s yoga is for hamstrings.
For abs and core, start with solid 5 minute plank followed by front levers, weighted hollow bodies and hyperextensions, finishing with easy rollouts.
5x5 minute low intensity edge pulls, to work fingers a little.
30 minutes on the bike.
Bloody great to be back working hard.

T - Start off with half hour strength training for runners programme. On to benches for doubles up to 95k, followed by 3x1 at 100. Next is 3x5 prone reps nags Ts, Ys and Is, which feel very solid. Finish with floor compressions for 3x20 seconds.
For abs do 3x3 minute planks and floor routine. Overall most fun gym session I’ve had in ages.
Drive to Manchester to get some training done. Start on the campus board, just steady reacquainting myself with the holds really. Also do five sets of compression hangs, with a range of hand heights.
Decide to break it up and do hip mobility yoga next.
Move on to Max Hangs, which is really a benchmarking exercise to see where I am, as it’s the start of doing these again after 5-6 weeks of doing other things. Not sure what to expect. Happy with the results, shoulder stability much improved and get  down to minus 1kg for 5 seconds, although bodyweight just eludes me by a few seconds, still I know my working weight for both 5 and 8 seconds now, so that’s okay.
Play in the big roof for a bit, getting longer links and shorter rests on big long red, but am out of control for the last few moves and just digging, so god knows what I’d be like without a 30 second break 2/3 of the way in. Definitely have a sweat on when I finish.
Get home for 30 minutes on the bike, followed by flexibility for splits and some rollouts.

W - Start with core/abs with 5 minute plank followed by giant sets of levers, weighted hollow bodies, hyperextensions and rollouts.
Move on to pulls. Start with weighted pull-ups with 20k for 3x8. Move on to 10second two arm locks at full, 90 and 120 with 10k added, superset Thais with offset pull-throughs. Next is the dreaded peg board for 3 sets. A good exercise both for locks and negatives and it is definitely improving, with longer moves. Finish pulls with close grip pulls for 3x8. Steady pull session.
Pudsey for social. Do yoga for shoulders, scapular exercises, upper body stretching and some hangs to warm up.
Session itself is doing all the blacks, bar the hand jam, and repeating stuff I’ve done before. Lots of fun and games. Very hot and weary by the end
Thirty minute run with 3x5 minute speed sessions.
Recovery ride on the bike for 30 minutes.
Stretching for calves, sciatic nerve and pancake to finish.

T - Start with bench press for 6x5, working up to 85k, attempted 90 but bailed at 3 reps. On the decline do three sets of 10 at 60k. Move on to do my strength for runners programme which does plenty of legs stuff, but also a good floor routine for core. Top the chest work up with prone rings for Ts, Ys and Is with 10 second holds. Then supine TYI combos. Plus mix in 10x1 minute plank, alternating between straight arm and elbow planks.
Back to Manchester. Campus board with short rests and some jumping and catching and 6x8 seconds of max hangs at minus4. Finish off with some reds for fun and some more playing on the big roof. Good progress on purple with more over lapping halves. Sweating even more today. Before I go, have an almost completely fruitless 10 minutes on the comp wall and just thank my lucky stars that in the times I was competing, problems generally consisted of just pulling on little holds. I do feel that it’s possible, I’d get a lot out of improving at this sort of stuff though, so go for a lie down and the feeling goes away.
At home do yoga for back and stretching for splits plus steady rollouts and half an hour on the bike for chilling.

F - Up and at ‘em. By just gone 7:30 have done my run, stretching for calves and sciatic nerve and yoga for hands, feet and twists. Do love these light early mornings.
Do my 100 chilling out rollouts before I head out for the day.
Head back to Manchester to do a bit of volume. Warm up with upper body stretching, scapular exercises and hangs. Start on the reds but am finding it tough as they are slopey and it’s hot, so mix in a few purples on better holds that are a bit more physical and have much more success, going home with a good few new ticks and repeats of things I’ve done before.
Weights on the way home, working shoulders and arms, including an absolute killer triset of standing curls, drag curls and seated curls.
Half an hour on the bike when I get home.

S - Out for a run in the morning, nice and steady and longer but not too long, trying to maintain M pace throughout.
Yoga for fingers and stretching for whole body and extra on the calves and quads.
Half an hour on the bike, nice and easy.
Finish with 20 hard rollouts.

S - Deadlifts, squats, leg presses and calf raises for legs today, working at lower rate and higher rep ranges than I normally do for legs.
Do a full body stretch and yoga for abs followed by easy rollouts.
Forty minutes on the bike for cardio.

It’s been a bloody great week, feel like I’ve worked hard in some areas where o needed to. The heat has been a battle and staying hydrated has been a challenge all on it’s own, but very happy with how things have been going.

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M - rest

T - Depot. Really, really hot. Went on the board and managed 3 problems, allegedly grade around 6B. Absolutely desperate, clearly well off the pace regardless of the level of sandbagging going on with the grades. Diligently stretched inbetween problems which worked well. Also did a few circuits which felt steady. Quiet when my skin started to hurt.

W - rest.

T - Kilnsey. Back on Urgent; irritatingly the jugs were a bit soapy at the back despite there not having been much/any rain. 3 goes up, during which I sorted a better sequence for the 'press' crux sequence and linked from start of undercuts to the top. Last go linked from the deck to halfway through the crux but felt completely spent afterwards. Didn't get back until 10ish.

F - rest. Felt broken!

S - Kilnsey. Still feeling a bit sore. Great conditions at the crag. Put the clips in Urgent then first go repeated link to halfway through crux. Felt wasted after this and rest of go was rubbish. Refuelled with a load of carbs and next go up did the link again but skated off the horrible smear mid crux. Refined sequence again which I *think* makes it more reliable. After a long rest on the bolt I linked from the jug before a very long, full extension move to the chain which I was happy with. Opted to have one more go and should have got through the crux from the deck only to fall off due to a foot slip on an easy move. Then did the top half link again by the skin of my teeth. Good session after a bad start. Bailed before the midges became terminal.

S - Really tired so opted for a rest day. Went out with girlfriend to try the Strans Gill/Crook Gill scrambles, one of Will Hunt's recommendations. Strans was bone dry but very enjoyable and a good warm up. Crook was wild; some swimming and wading required along with exciting slimy/mossy VDiff climbing. The crux pitch is essentially a slabby chimney which you wrestle up with a waterfall in your face. Any of the climbs can be avoided easily so the commitment level is fairly low, but once you commit to one of the climbs falling off isn't really an option!

Good week. Essentially did Urgent in two sections so should be redpointing fairly soon. Hopefully the rain holds off. Getting jabbed this evening which might affect training this week, so hoping to get some fingerboarding in at lunchtime.

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Goal: Font 7a outdoor somewhere

M: first run in a good long while, a light 5km round the village. Pretty hard going but good to get out.
T: wall session nixed by eldest having a meltdown as I had one foot out of the door.
W: nowt
T: LSD evening, very sweaty session but dragged myself up a couple of V5s onsight, and a V6 second go
F: nowt
S: all day pass so headed out to explore West Nab as it seemed to fit the bill for a warm day with a breeze.

Excellent session, warmed up on some nice slabby things and then bumped into a couple from Manchester.

Good session on Archery, think I sorted the beta but was probably a bit too warm in the heat of the day to see it off. Definitely heading back when it's nearer single-figure temperature for that.

Moved on to Years Of Practice but was pretty done in by then, also it looks a bit arbitrary - hard to know what's in and out. Seems like one where you'd think you've ticked it but then found out a foothold was out.


Will Hunt

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S - Really tired so opted for a rest day. Went out with girlfriend to try the Strans Gill/Crook Gill scrambles, one of Will Hunt's recommendations. Strans was bone dry but very enjoyable and a good warm up. Crook was wild; some swimming and wading required along with exciting slimy/mossy VDiff climbing. The crux pitch is essentially a slabby chimney which you wrestle up with a waterfall in your face. Any of the climbs can be avoided easily so the commitment level is fairly low, but once you commit to one of the climbs falling off isn't really an option!

I've been jabbering to everyone about how good this is. Glad you enjoyed.


Tu - A hot evening so went to Brimham's northern edges for some trad. Couldn't resist a go on Picnic as we walked past Castle Rock. Couldn't really convince myself that the gear was solid (crunchy Nidderdale grit and microwires are not a good mix in my book) so bailed after failing to work out the crux mantel at the top. Not sure I'll be back in cooler connies. Moved onto the Northern Edges and did Pathos ledge-up with one fall. Should have onsighted but didn't believe in the top vague crimps so tried it a different way which was a non-starter. Then did Allan's Crack which was just beautiful and Fag Slab.

F - Kilnsey. Horrible. Put clips in Metal Guru and wasn't really sufficiently warmed up. Connies on North Buttress were apparently excellent but the midges started to rage at the south end. First go I shambled the first crux and under-gripped going into the second crux, dropping a move that should have been OK. Second go I was a bit tired and didn't get the crux right-hand gaston properly for the redpoint crux. Abandoned the crag after being eaten alive. Really rubbish session. Hadn't eaten before going out, didn't bring sufficient food, didn't get warmed up, left the crag feeling like I was just getting started. Crap!

S - Fam stuff

S - Trow Gill. The westerly never really penetrated the upper gill so the midges progressed from Cat 1 to Cat 3, Cat 4 for brief spells. Still, we managed quite well despite the ultra sweaty connies. Stick clipped up South Wall Central and did all the moves but didn't work the top bit much as it a) felt OK and b) out of courtesy to Nathaniel holding the ropes in Cat 3 midges. Second go up should have bolt-to-bolted but just went for a redpoint go. Did the crux but, like a complete chode, started to go off route in the middle tricky section and had to reverse and then head up to a middling rest on undercuts. Actually managed to scrape up to the top undercut and was within sight of the finishing jug but not high enough on the undercut. Gassed.
False start on the second go. Had one more attempt but too far gone at the top crux. Discovered that the top sequence doesn't work as I want it to if you have to clip halfway through it, so need to extend the top clip before the finishing jug. Should also clip the 4th bolt from higher and the 5th bolt extended from the same hold. That would prevent a lot of hanging around locking off.

Popped to the New Inn in Clapham and asked if we should order at the bar or order in the beer garden. Was told that somebody would come out. Ventured inside after 20 minutes and was told that "I keep asking somebody to come out and take orders but nobody's listening to me - somebody will be right out" . Waited another 10 minutes and gave up. Mentioned it to them on the way out to be told "sorry, we're very busy. Somebody will come out and take orders soon".
If you're that busy just tell us that you can't accommodate more customers rather than make us sit outside in the vague hope that somebody might get round to taking an order for three drinks. Avoid the cunts!

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M- 10k, 50 mins. hot and humid, but running felt OK. Finally feel like some consistent pacing
T - nowt
W - fingerboard max hangs.
T - 10k, 10 mins
F- nowt
S - back to Floors Craig, this time with a crowd. Did the arete I had my eye on, actually went down with easy with a few pads and spotters. Probably only 5+ / 6a but climbs brilliantly. Manged the full low traverse too, after 4 sessions. Now doubting if it's even 7A, key seems to get on the sharp crimps while skin is still good. Psyched team were trying the highball arete / solo but I had parental responsibilities so never saw the send, complete with grinding belly flop topout above a terrible landing.
S - Knockburn Loch - decent paddleboard on my tod - 2.5km, followed by messing about with kids on it. Cycled home, 27km. First time on bike in ages - enjoyed it.

Duncan Disorderly

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M: Decided to get back on the push iron in order to lose a those lockdown inches - 16 hilly miles... Nice! Some twat took out my van mirror while I was out on the bike tho - Not so nice!
T: Harpur hill with GF - Cracking set of easy routes on the perched block buttress...
W: Shoulder stuff
T: Board session - First in a while... Surprised myself by doing a 15 move problem I'd set in Feb that I couldn't touch... Finished early as LH index finger was feeling tweaky...
F: Rest - finger feeling decidedly tweaked!
S: 30 miles on the bike - hills, getting lost, running out of water... Standard road bike shizz.
S: Sheaf bloc - Thought I'd go check the traverse and see how the finger held up - Crux involves a move with a full LH crimp on a 25/30 degree overhang so decided against that and just worked the rest of the sections - felt hard! Can't believe I used to lap this thing! Was well hot tho so went for a cheeky beverage - oops!  :pissed:

Mixed bag this week - Actually got down to doing some pulling hard and promptly got hurt! Wanker who knocked off my wing mirror meant that I couldn't use the van at the weekend which was a ball-ache too! Was good to get out on the bike again tho - should shift the lockdown kilos pretty sharpish... Gonna need to keep an eye on the finger for a week or two but feels okay as long as I don't full crimp...

Nibile

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Power Club
Mon - pull ups, clean and press 5x5 45 kg, bar work, high pulls 58 kg, bentover row. Some Lattice edge BW hangs.
Tue - rest.
Wed - PE low 30/5 x6 just barely. No warm up whatsoever. Weights. PE low 1/40" x3 with a little margjn. Weights 10' EMOM bentover row x5 60 kg, pull ups x5. TBDL 90 kg 5x5 EMOM.
Boiling, 24°.
Thu - board climbing, two new problems.
Fri - rest.
Sat - EMOM pulling circuit 24', clean, high pulls, bentover row, pull ups. 28° enough said.
Sun - tired. Boxing bag.

Coops_13

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T: DBC. Squats up to 205lb X3 *5sets (equal PB), strangely found this easier with free weights than smith machine - maybe my natural squat is different to the smith angle. Bench press (harder than smith machine) up to 185lb X3. Chest fly, shoulder press, bicep curl *3sets. Should band exercises

W: Guanella Pass. Warmed up then went and flashed Stemming Matters V6 which was nice. Went up to Love Matters V8++ to see if I could repeat. Managed to get it in overlapping halves which I was psyched about - seems like I have more power than I did two years ago but PE is not there. Tried Earth Matters stand V7 but skin was v bad at this point and kept greasing off the top


S: Lincoln Lake. Boulder I wanted to get on was in the sun so went to 8=D V8. Super low start v awkward and not often done (I couldn't pull-on due to snow) so tried from the modern sit start. Worked moves then was falling off high up due to greasing off. Skin already wrecked :( Went down and met some friend, tried a few more things but got nowhere. Death hike out was awful with two pads (big pad and standard) - never again. Definitely nowhere near acclimatized

S: 2.5 mile hike at Rainbow Lakes. Nice easy hike to aid with acclimatization

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Lots of good weeks it seems, guess the weather's helping!
M - normal office hours at work. Took advantage and headed to Cheddar (remnant) for the eve. Wanted to get reacquainted with Just Say No as had a couple of sessions in early Dec last year when I did Wrist Business. Putting the clips in struggled to remember my sequence, especially on the lower section, but first redpoint managed to power through the Wrist Business crux, get a bit back at the undercuts, and hold it together for the top groove. Pleased to get this without any faff as it was feeling a real challenge last year. Had a quick play on The Business (extends Wrist Business to the top of the crag at 8a via the meat of the climbing on Try To Remember) afterwards, but despite managing to repeat WB, I made no impression on the extention and quickly retreated. Still, 8a and a repeat of 7c+ makes for a productive evening, and we were done in time to watch the sunset with a pint from the garden of the Crown on the way home.
T -
W - TCA eve, new white set (6C to 7A+ I think) tried 19, flashed 9, failed on 3. Also ticked off one more blue.
T -
F - am drive to Dorset, pm Dancing Ledge. Put draws in Mr Choo Choo (7a) to warm up, then gave Extremely Fat Chance Hotel (7b+)  a flash go (I'd done the shorter version, but almost 2 decades ago) annoyingly slipped out of the knee bar that unlocks the crux on both first and second attempts, steady third  go. Another lap on MCC to retrieve draws to finish.
S - Dancing Ledge, full sun but bit of breeze keeping it just about bearable. Hiccup (6c) and (6a) to warm up, then MCC again to get draws in for gf. Main aim for the day was Ghost Of Ian Curtis (7c+), got to the crux ok, but try as I might couldn't find a way to reach the crux cornflakes from the kneebar. Releasing the knee once you got them, and the next move to get back on to reasonable holds was also beyond me. Hate to play this card, but I reckon with 2 inches more reach this would be a different proposition entirely...
Tried Slim Fast Motel (7c) as a consolation, but skin and the heat were making things less than fun, so sacked it and went for a swim. Attempted to try White Rave (7a+) afterwards, was very psyched for an adventure given the abseil approach, hanging belay, and tales of epics on UKC, sadly no joy as nesting seagulls at the top belay necessitated jumaring back up 20m of grass and scree without a single move done. Frustrating, but def want to come back for this. At least the braai in the evening was good.
S - Dancing Ledge, brutally hot, dialled back expectations in light of the weather and yesterday's failures. War Of The Wardens (5) and Negative Creep (6b+) (which was good 3D fun up a groove) to warm up. Missed a hold on flash of Alienation (7a) but fine second go. Then Eye Am The Sky (7a+), also second go - ace positions and exposure as you climb round the edge of the quarry over the sea, shame the meat of the climbing is pretty thin and unpleasant.

Really good evening to start the week, and lovely weekend in the sun despite the lack of success on targets. I see Hells Darker Chambers has been upped to 8a on UKC too, even more reason to come back...

71kg

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Hello everyone

M - Birthday! Gentle celebrations as befits my antiquity. Walked 13km.
T - Stronghold bouldering - ‘5c’ circuits (4 mins on; 5 mins off x 7). Got pumped, trashed skin.
W - Shoulders: side planks, horizontal ring rows, handstands, IsYsTs (approaching 45 degrees - quite hard for me). 10km walk.
T - as Wednesday.
F - And now for something completely different: Nudey Cliff (Torquay) with Fiend. Beautifully set in verdant south Devon with only the occasional jetski and mothballed cruise liner to remind you you’re not in the middle of the Mato Grosso. The crags rise out of the jungle, a deep red conglomerate of pebbles held together with what appears to be mud. The rock is a bit like the Fisher Towers in Utah or of course Ladram Bay further up the coast. Unlike the Fishers, the bolts are reassuringly substantial (many thanks tomrainbow). Warmed-up on the Bashful Buttress 6bs and 6cs. Entertaining and at the far end of what I consider climbing: the holds were covered with a fine layer of topsoil and it’s difficult to pull hard when every potato feels like it might explode out of the rock at any moment! On reflection we probably spent too much time here and should have moved on to the main wall which was very good and almost completely solid. Matt led Do You Think I’m 6c? (6b+ to 7a, according to taste). He thoughtfully brushed the chalk from the crux so I could claim an almost-onsight. It felt like a 6b+ to a rest to a 6c to a rest to a 6b, so overall...?? Finished with the Jedi Slab but it started mizzling before we could continue up the Jedi Wall. Looong drive home.
S - Tired, battered. House sale fell through (due to complete in two weeks, house half packed and ready to go). NNFN!!  Cycled with the lad, and walked 10km.
S - Still tired and battered. Gentle shoulder work and some pull-ups.


Enjoyed the Nudey Cliff, new crag number 5 for the year. It’s hard to give an unconditional recommendation but if you think you might like it you really will. Keen to get back to some of the 7as, though not sure how much more time for climbing I’ll have down here in the future. Pleased to get up Do You Think ... in good style and good to climb with Matt again.

Particularly relevant to you Matt as you're in Torbay, but I climbed at Nudey Cliff yesterday (just near Babbacombe), and on arrival at the crag realised our legs and my dog were completely crawling with ticks.  Managed to clear my legs and get trousers on, and haven't found any since.  Had to give the dog a very close trim when we got home and they were tumbling off her.

I was really quite surprised as I didn't realise there was much in the way of animal vectors in those woods below the coast path, but I won't be going down there wearing shorts again.

Also found several ticks on me whilst and after climbing here. My first known infestation.



I’ve been doing 4 x 10 mins on, 5 off on a mix of vert and steep (as that’s what I have). Move onto steep to get some pump, back onto vert to de-pump. Medium intensity. Kind of what might go on in the middle of a sustained pitch. Crucially, rather than just moving all the time, plenty of stopping in awkward positions and hanging on one arm. If you’re in a public wall you might want to avoid mimicking fiddling in a wire? Session takes 1 hour, is totally tedious, but my base aerobic fitness seems pretty decent. Yet to really test it out on anything longer than 20 metres!

Thanks for this T_B (and well done on Ninth Life, at 22 metres the training must be working!)  I’ve made a start and I’m now lasting more than 3 moves so things are going in the right direction. Not yet fit enough to stay on the stronghold board for 10 minutes but will emphasise hanging around more than moving next time. 

Do You Think .. was 90 second sprints between complete rests so manageable with my current fitness. Interestingly, I was getting pretty out of breath and this was taking as long to subside as the pump. Another post-Covid thing.   :(

Plan: more of this.

Glad you enjoyed nudey. Safe to say jedi wall and the others on that bit are definitely the main event, worth coming back for.

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On the subject, and because it doesn't get much more "Power Club" on "UKBouldering" than this...






Wood FT

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Hot potato action

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Potato Club!

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I'm looking at those photos and expecting the Mars Rover to roll into view.  [I can also trick myself into thinking that Fiend is stretched horizontal and pawing at the ground - perhaps clearing landmines from a blasted desert hellscape]

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Fixed it...

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Fiend in the tick-infested jungle. Feel free to imagine velociraptor or other Cretaceous dinosaurs just out of shot.


Glad you enjoyed nudey. Safe to say jedi wall and the others on that bit are definitely the main event, worth coming back for.

Thanks. It was good fun and first visits are usually a bit of a reconnaissance. Will return, wearing long trousers.

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Well doen Matt and Duncan for grasping the nettle cobble. I'm glad you enjoyed yourself. If you are heading there I would strongly recommend the four routes to the R of DYTI6C as well as The Nudey Blues and the new 7b Horse Pieces.

I've never had a tick on me from all my visits there so maybe it's only a problem at this time of year, maybe the deer in the valley (as well as the velociraptors) are particularly infested this year.

Love the Martian imagery...it's got me thinking....

 

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