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Dangerous Brothers- Rubicon (Read 2805 times)

Aussiegav

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Dangerous Brothers- Rubicon
June 09, 2021, 07:19:41 pm
Had a look at this (from the ground) and I am considering it for a project/ goal for 2022.
Anyone done this? Looks like the crux is at the 3rd bolt.  How hard are the hardest moves as a bouldering grade?   

J_duds

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#1 Re: Dangerous Brothers- Rubicon
June 09, 2021, 08:02:09 pm
About 7B / + I thought but I was climbing alot of Peak lime that year!

I think it's a few small crimps and then a pop out right at around the 2nd to 3rd bolt, this move seemed like a long way, but in reality it probably wasn't!

T_B

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#2 Re: Dangerous Brothers- Rubicon
June 09, 2021, 08:07:45 pm
Tried it a couple of weeks ago with Dave Parry who is not weak on crimps (neither of us did the crux). Itís actually quite a nice hold, just 3 fingers kinda like a match box. The move off it out right is off balance and hard - slapping the hold is one thing, getting it in control is another. I would guess the route is Font 7c, minimum 7b+. Using my sequence itís 6 or 7 moves to the end of the difficulties. Apparently thereís a different sequence that doesnít use the obvious matchbox crimp.

Dolly

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#3 Re: Dangerous Brothers- Rubicon
June 09, 2021, 09:40:59 pm
IIRC not using the crimp is miles harder.  Itís all about feet position to do the dead point move out right. Basically go quite a bit right then when you land it youíll be ok for the rest

Bonjoy

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#4 Re: Dangerous Brothers- Rubicon
June 11, 2021, 08:36:03 am
Pretty sure I used the crimp. Don't recall it being hard at the grade when I did it (ages ago). Deffo one of those where if you find the crux okay you will cruise the route as there's not much climbing either side of it and it's all significantly easier moves. The photos of Welford on it in TPOC should give you some idea what to expect.

Aussiegav

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#5 Re: Dangerous Brothers- Rubicon
June 11, 2021, 09:28:58 am
The photos of Welford on it in TPOC should give you some idea what to expect.

TPOC?  :shrug:

cheque

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Bonjoy

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#7 Re: Dangerous Brothers- Rubicon
June 11, 2021, 09:48:22 am
A cool and iconic book... so long as you stick to just looking at the pictures.

SamT

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#8 Re: Dangerous Brothers- Rubicon
June 11, 2021, 10:07:44 am

I'm always slightly taken aback when I realise there are young climbers out there who don't even know about TPOC...

dunnyg

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#9 Re: Dangerous Brothers- Rubicon
June 11, 2021, 10:19:37 am
I wouldnt consider myself young, and Ive never heard of it!

Teaboy

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#10 Re: Dangerous Brothers- Rubicon
June 11, 2021, 10:52:19 am
A cool and iconic book... so long as you stick to just looking at the pictures.

Weird how it is viewed that way now as it was hammered on publication (although, given climbing media at the time consisted of three mags, it was possible for one or two voices to Ďrepresentí the entire climbing diaspora)

SamT

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#11 Re: Dangerous Brothers- Rubicon
June 11, 2021, 10:59:14 am
I don't remember it being slammed particularly, but then I didn't do much reading.. I'm more of a pictures kind of person anyhow, so the book was just a source of massive psych to get ripped and climb harder. 

Its all a little sycophantic I guess. Anyway, off topic. 

I've always found DB to be nails.  Did Tribe, but couldn't touch DB.

cheque

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#12 Re: Dangerous Brothers- Rubicon
June 11, 2021, 11:03:33 am
A cool and iconic book... so long as you stick to just looking at the pictures.

Itís a mad book. Iím going to cover it in my mad old climbing book reviews series on the demon Instagram at some point.

Hereís the picture anyway-




T_B

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#13 Re: Dangerous Brothers- Rubicon
June 11, 2021, 12:30:13 pm
Which isnít the sequence  ;)

SamT

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#14 Re: Dangerous Brothers- Rubicon
June 11, 2021, 12:58:54 pm
 :lol:

Wonder if that's why I could never get anywhere near...

I suspect John could have chosen any sequence he liked.

SamT

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#16 Re: Dangerous Brothers- Rubicon
June 11, 2021, 02:58:02 pm
A cool and iconic book... so long as you stick to just looking at the pictures.

Itís a mad book. Iím going to cover it in my mad old climbing book reviews series on the demon Instagram at some point.

Hereís the picture anyway-



I remember meeting John in about 2003/4 just after I'd got into climbing. I was in Morzine over xmas with some mates from Uni and we stayed in a big hostel/dorm type place. He had some nasty flu type thing and we barely saw him all week.

Fond memories of getting to know the sister of the hostel manager quite well  :wub:  and an awkward drive to the airport stuck between the brother, and her dad....

SA Chris

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#17 Re: Dangerous Brothers- Rubicon
June 11, 2021, 03:17:41 pm
A cool and iconic book... so long as you stick to just looking at the pictures.

"The Power of Climbing is enormous, it justifies my entire existence"

I lapped it up when I bought it on a trip to the UK (still got £19.95 YHA price tag on the back). Some of the interviews are a bit patchy, but there's some good stuff in there too. Remember this was pre VP era, there were mags about, not a lot of rock climbing literature though.

Bonjoy

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#18 Re: Dangerous Brothers- Rubicon
June 11, 2021, 03:56:16 pm
Which isnít the sequence  ;)
I spotted that look in the book after making the remark. Hoped I'd get away with it...

 

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