UKBouldering.com

What is more appalling: Knee Pads or Crack Gloves? (Read 4827 times)

Rob F

Offline
  • **
  • menacing presence
  • Posts: 209
  • Karma: +17/-0
That Bingo is remarkably accurate.  ;D

I think that all these issues would become a non event with the introduction of a Standard Uniform for hard ascents.

Something along the lines of white edgeclinger tights and neon (colour of your choosing) Think Pink vest.

Fiend

Offline
  • *
  • _
  • forum hero
  • Abominable sex magick practitioner and climbing heathen
  • Posts: 13483
  • Karma: +682/-68
  • Whut

Top work, right middle has me properly laughing  :lol:


jwi

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4253
  • Karma: +332/-1
    • On Steep Ground


Personally I feel like the advancement of the toe end of the shoe has had a greater impact on my climbing than anything at the heel end. There’s definitely been some problems I would have struggled or failed completely on without downturned shoes with a liberal coating of toe rubber.

This.

Soft downturned shoes with toe rubber for toe hooking are a big game changer steep routes. I have noticed that heel hooks often seems handy for climbers who are more flexible in the hip and better climbers than I.

GazM

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Posts: 537
  • Karma: +29/-0
    • Highland ramblings
Regarding crack gloves, if these are the game changer that means I actually start enjoying crack climbing then I'm all for them. For years I've shied away from jamming cos I'm really crap at it and it just seemed unnecessarily painful and awkward but this means my trad climbing has definitely suffered.
I built a couple of cracks either side of my board during last year's lockdown and with the cheap Simond gloves and more lately the Ocun ones I'm loving it. Lack of time due to parenthood means I'm yet to deploy my new skills (ahem) where it matters, but I'm certainly keen to try, and without the gloves I'm certain that wouldn't be the case.

jwi

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4253
  • Karma: +332/-1
    • On Steep Ground
I have some old crack gloves and find them really useful for warming up. For hard cracks I prefer tape or nothing, but for easy cracks they are good enough, and protect better than even a good tape job. And it is irritating to tape up for just one route, crack gloves are much easier to get on and off. On Czech and Elbe sandstone rubber handjammies are better than taping imho.

I have always recommended people to either tape up or put un gloves to learn jamming. No one has good coordination for jams in the beginning, and goobies are just horrible. Once you have good coordination they are less necessary, but for certain limestone cracks they increase the comfort enormously.

 

SimplePortal 2.3.7 © 2008-2024, SimplePortal