Of course I enjoyed the video but, spoiler alert, I was expecting to see triumphant send footage. I thought Doylo eventually did it?
Trance. Doylo - What's that first track? I went to Gatecrasher for my 18th and that song is my only memory, please tell me it!
Quote from: Will Hunt on June 02, 2021, 11:52:08 amOf course I enjoyed the video but, spoiler alert, I was expecting to see triumphant send footage. I thought Doylo eventually did it?There’s enough send videos in the world Thought a failure video might be bit different .
Quote from: Doylo on June 02, 2021, 11:59:26 amQuote from: Will Hunt on June 02, 2021, 11:52:08 amOf course I enjoyed the video but, spoiler alert, I was expecting to see triumphant send footage. I thought Doylo eventually did it?There’s enough send videos in the world Thought a failure video might be bit different . Did you give in to the knee rubber?!
No never tried it. Don’t think I’ll climb in there again.. Makes me feel a bit nauseous when I walk past now.
"you go climbing to do hard moves" is spot on
Loved it, great to see the effort involved and commitment. Training scenes likewise had me well psyched. I'm so conflicted about the knee. On the one hand I love finding new beta and feeling like I'm bringing things down to my level, but on the other I think Danny's comment of "you go climbing to do hard moves" is spot on. Great attitude to have.
Quote from: Bradders on June 02, 2021, 02:32:18 pm"you go climbing to do hard moves" is spot onCan tell you're a boulderer, I go climbing to get pumped!
Quote from: abarro81 on June 02, 2021, 03:00:53 pmQuote from: Bradders on June 02, 2021, 02:32:18 pm"you go climbing to do hard moves" is spot onCan tell you're a boulderer, I go climbing to get pumped! All moves are hard when you're pumped though! Also fun fact; just watched the first ascent footage and Mule actually tries to use a kneebar on his original sequence....37 seconds in:
Quote from: Doylo on June 02, 2021, 12:16:36 pmNo never tried it. Don’t think I’ll climb in there again.. Makes me feel a bit nauseous when I walk past now.Hope it still felt like a positive experience when you did. Great vid as always!
I think that is a pretty bad attitude that holds climbing back. Climbing is about figuring out the easiest way to get up a piece of rock. People who don't like that can compete in finger boarding.
Quote from: Bradders on June 02, 2021, 02:32:18 pmI'm so conflicted about the knee. On the one hand I love finding new beta and feeling like I'm bringing things down to my level, but on the other I think Danny's comment of "you go climbing to do hard moves" is spot on. Great attitude to have.I think that is a pretty bad attitude that holds climbing back. Climbing is about figuring out the easiest way to get up a piece of rock. People who don't like that can compete in finger boarding.
I'm so conflicted about the knee. On the one hand I love finding new beta and feeling like I'm bringing things down to my level, but on the other I think Danny's comment of "you go climbing to do hard moves" is spot on. Great attitude to have.
As Joble said to Barrows: “If that’s climbing then I’m not interested” and that is a legitimate stance to take. It’s interesting that people are noting their use of kneebars or not on problems like Ben’s in the ukc logbooks so there is a reasonably widespread recognition of the significant difference kneepads/bars can have to the difficulty and even character of a problem.
I see no issue in describing and grading things with and without kneepads/bars at Parisellas though entirely different names would be a step too far. I don’t see how that might be “holding climbing back either”.
Really is a tricky one. Chris, who found the knee bar on Louis?
Ps Im guilty of finding knee bars on things so I'm not sure what to think now. Maybe it's the emotional attachment to a particular sequence that you've invested yourself in that makes it hurt more when the difficulty is changed. Depends which side of the discovery you find yourself on???
It might hold climbing back by holding people's skills back; e.g. it sounds like one big difference between Buster and Jorge on FRFM was that Jorge is a knee wizard.
I remember a conversation years ago where someone (Tim P I think) suggested that since I mostly bouldered to train for routes, why didn't I boulder without knees as it would be better training... A few years later while only just getting up my hardest ever onsights due to emergency knee use I was reminded that this would have been a terrible plan!
Maybe it's the emotional attachment to a particular sequence that you've invested yourself in that makes it hurt more when the difficulty is changed. Depends which side of the discovery you find yourself on???