[shark]

11.4-7 average 159.9 up 0.5lbs

M.

T. PM/ Eve LPT. Nice weather. Had arranged to meet Pablo from Chester via FB at Parisellas Cave but when I arrived Ben Pritch, Ben Moon and Andy Cave were there! Doylo knocking about too. Warm up on UTB 3 tie ins on Statement. First go putting in draws. Second go went from under 5th bolt to clipping last one (8th). Third go went from 5th to 7th. Really struggled on the redpoint crux (past the 8th) after doing these links. Pretty disappointed at the time but looking at my notes the next day realised it was actually a better performance than my previous sessions.

W. PM Went for a walk to explore some of the esoteric crags. Bumped into a few familiar people on the Marine Drive. Nap then went down to LPT and met Rob K for first time.  Gleaned some extremely useful beta watching Dave Evans on Statement.

T. LPT with Ted. Led Contusion 6c which I had vague recollections from 25 years ago of being not a good warm up. Worse than that it was hard and unpleasant. Then stated up The Bloods without conviction and didn’t fancy traverse left as looked like it might be hard to clip next bolt so came down. Went downstairs. Max and Anna already on Statement. First go up did from below 5th bolt to top in 3 sections. Dave’s beta worked a treat to get undercut flake. Second go best link so far from below 5th to falling off redpoint crux because I’d forgotten to move my left hand to the better undercut (15 moves) Then did finishing section first attempt which is starting to feel less desperate. Third go felt under pressure as others waiting to get on it. Was powered down and failed on the move to get the undercut flake so came down. Ted absolved me from belay duty so quick supper and headed home. Ballache journey back to Sheffield with two separate motorway closures.

F.

S. PM Max hangs benchmarking in a barn in Devon on a metolius rung with nesting swifts to keep me company. Hot and not done Max hangs for months so unsure how this would go so happy to do 32.5kg for 6secs  half crimp / chisel which is up 5kg since last benchmarked 15 months ago though 3lbs lighter now than then. Didn’t get round to drags (stronger grip) as dragged off to the pub.

S.

Progress on Statement albeit slower than I would like/expect. In some ways it feels like learning to climb again on the desperate vert ground. Hopefully will be able to get the link from below the 5th bolt to the top next session. Then link from end of the traverse to the top. Then start redpointing. Scary to hear that Dave Evans has dropped it at the redpoint crux 20 times!
Thoroughly enjoy staying away. This time was first time sleeping in my van. Privilege to wake up with the sun rising over the sea. Great to meet some new people and catch up with old ones. Feels like a minor miracle every time the van starts. Need more of this in my life.

[Duma]

Power Club
M - nothing, 12hr shift.
T - day off, Brean. Spent my skin working out the crux section of Brean Topping (8b). Not hugely psyched for this, it's a proper skin eater, but its the last straight up I've got left here and it's one of the few places we could be confident wouldn't be seeping after a couple of very wet weeks. I've had a look at it before, but it was too hot really for the tiny crimps, and there was a couple of moves I hadn't done. Thankfully today was cloudy and windy. First 2 goes up no real progress, couldn't bring myself to pull hard enough on the lh razor for the first hard move of the crux, and couldn't work out the drop knee that I've heard tames the second hard move. Was feeling a bit despondent, but 3rd go gritted my teeth and got through the pain test of the first hard move, and then a more basic approach got me through the second, and managed the final slap to easy ground without much fuss. Really pleased to link this section together, I would say it's on, but I then failed to repeat either of the hard moves even in isolation for the rest of the session. Nvm, still a good bit of progress, and gf did her target route too.
W - am run, 10kish, off road, didn't time it but took it very easy with plenty of time sat enjoying the views and weather. Eve TCA, aiming for moonboard but realised early on was still knackered from my run so spent an hour playing on slabs and then sacked it off.
T - Eve, Avon Gorge with Ollie for Was It You? Bit warm to begin with but manageable, and lovely to be on the wall in the evening sunshine. Felt really good putting the clips in, got all the way to the big move right just before the last bolt, and optimistic I'd get it this session. Second go was much worse though, struggled on the hand swap at half way and nearly dropped it slipping on a poor pinch a couple of moves later. Recovered OK at the slot, and fought through past the last clip. Totally boxed, managed to get rh across but couldn't get feet sorted to bring lh over which marks the easing before 5 or so moves to the chain. Gutted to drop it so close to the end again! Spent a while adjusting my foot sequence for the umpteenth time and worked out an improvement, but my skin was weeping from the heat and Tuesday's exertions on Brean Topping, and I'd used a lot of energy on that go so doubts were creeping in. Thankfully it had cooled considerably by my next go, climbed much better, through the hand swap with no fuss and comfortable to the slot. New foot sequence worked brilliantly at the rp crux, was even managing little shakes on most of the moves! So happy with this, most satisfying process for a long while. Think the combination of the situation and great quality and consistently technical and sequency climbing makes it a brilliantly engaging experience. 5 sessions, which is the second longest I've spent on a route, despite it being "only" 7c+. Great day.
F - nothing, 12hr shift
S - nothing, 12hr shift
S - nothing, 12hr shift. Should go for a run later, but can't see it really.

71kg

[Wood FT]

Nice one, Duma. That sounds like a brilliant climb high in the gorge. Does it get any shade?

[Duma]

Think it would be ok before about 11 am? or any cloud or wind would help a lot. tbh theres only a couple of really thin holds, I think the big issue on thursday was that my skin was already pretty thin from brean on tues

[Duma]

S - nothing, 12hr shift. Should go for a run later, but can't see it really.

Writing this down guilted me in to going out, 6km, easy pace, 30min, flat, mostly pavement. Nice to be out once I started.

[yetix]

M 9x7/53 front 3, plus some wrist rehab
T rest
W 3x7/53 front 3 hangs. pigeons cave. Managed to scrape my way up Fish Pie with some fluke. 14 years later felt brick. Turns out a hold had broken off it the day before! One for next time maybe if its repaired I guess. Stoked with Fish Pie though as wanted to get on that for ages! Checked out In the Race too, which looks really good and I'd like to try soon.
T rest
F 3x7/53 front 3 hangs. Parisellas Cave. Got to the flake on Hatch Atrocity twice in 2 goes, can do rocka pretty much every go at this point, just needs a little more it seems. Tried Hatch Life for 4 goes, got to swing move every go, got the pinch twice but fell off on the drop down move both times, which I always thoguht was steady in the past. Did from here to the end back to back twice fine.
S rest
S 3x7/53 front 3 hangs. Bowderstone. Felt tired. Usual circuit to warm up the onto IO sit, too hot. Felt like I was going to split immediately. Moved onto final curtain, managed to get through the first cross move (crux for me) once in 4 goes but didn't manage to get to the top.

Tough week for me, feeling a little worn out from projecting/work and have a few niggles which I've been trying to manage. Think I'm gonna take a few weeks away (possibly longer) from both Hatchatrocity and IO and try stuff closer to my session grade for a bit again, this seems to be the best way for me to maintain my shape, feel like I may need cooler conditions (which will be rare now) for IO sit as the pull on obliterates my index finger, can probabaly find them late at night, but need to feel more motivated about it again first I guess. Psyched to do Fish Pie quickly though as wanted to do try that for a while, keen to try more coastal lime in the near future.

[JohnM]

M - Long drive back from Burgundy

T - Shoulder mobility, foam rolling, hamstring exercises. 5km hike.

W - Trail run 16.23km 642m.

T - Shoulder mobility, foam rolling, hamstring exercises. Shoulder recruitment and core, finger boarding, weighted finger curls, bicep curls, wrist curls. Trail run 11.06km 383m.

F - Schwarzer Schwann (8c) - session 7. Conditions were pretty good in the end and I had new sequence dialed for the top. However, I only got into the top crux once and had nothing to give for the last hard move.

S - Goetterwandl - Tried an 8a+ I had tried once in the past. It has a crimpy traverse followed by a powerful shoulder move to get stood up before making a further traverse leftwards with tough compression moves before following a cool 7cish overhanging groove to the top. I was pleased to get through the initial shoulder move 5 times after barely being able to do the move 2 years ago. I take this as a sign that my shoulder health has improved and they have got stronger after some consistent shoulder stability work. However, I had no energy to finish the route and was immediately pumped with a high heart rate and very heavy breathing.

S -  Trail running 23.31km with 1156m. Fantastic tour taking in lovely spring meadows high up before descending through a deep river gorge with big limestone walls either side. Best of the year so far and a good way to pass the 1000km of running mark with 42,983m or elevation gain.

A nice week overall but struggling to climb anything at the moment due to fatigue from a mixture of long drives, work stress, lack of sleep and generally over doing it. I feel tired and negative before every climbing session at the moment and seem to get an extremely high heart rate with heavy breathing every time a make more than a few moves. I need to try and improve sleep and when I get more energy back add a couple of training session in during the week to try and maintain a bit of "snap". All I am doing at the moment is recovering and mobility stuff with the odd bit of finger boarding thrown in.   

[Nibile]

Power Club
Mon - upper back. Short on time.
Tue - rest.
Wed - one foot bouldering P2 +2 kg strong. Circuit start - 22 - top 45" rest. Start - 20 - top 1' rest. Weights upper back, cluster sets for snatch 43 kg 5x5.
Thu - PE low 30/5 x6 ok. PE low 1/40" x3 just barely. Snatch DL cluster 100 kg 5x5. Bentover row. Snatch pulls.
Fri - rest.
Sat - boxing bag.
Sun - clean and press 50 kg 5x5 cluster. TBDL 114 kg 5x5 cluster. High pulls 5x5. Tired.


Note: from now on all the main lifts will be performed in a cluster routine of sort.

[gollum]

W/C 24/5/21

M - Sheffield, pulls, stretching and yoga, abs/core, low intensity pulls, cardio
T - Cardio, campus, compression, repeaters, Manchester circuits, chest, yoga and stretching, abs
W - Pudsey, yoga and stretching, small edges, pulls, abs/core, more stretching, cardio
T - Chest and compression, campus, abs, repeaters, Circuits, cardio, yoga and stretching
F - Shoulders, arms, wrists, yoga and stretching, Pudsey social, density hangs, abs, cardio
S - Legs, yoga and stretching, abs,
S - Rest

M - Drive down to Sheffield. Work my way around the reds. Takes a bit of time to get in the groove, but once I do, all is well and get them all done, apart from the ones o did last time.
Pull exercises. Start with deadlifts up to 140. Followed by a range of one arm work, mixing pulls, locks and negatives. Finish with speed pulls.
Stretching when I get home. Start with calves, then for sciatic nerve and finish with hamstrings.
Go on to work core. Standard 5 minute plank followed by levers, weighted hollow bodies and hyperextensions and finishing with rollouts.
Small edge low intensity edge holds for 5x5 minutes.
Half an hour on the bike.

T - Solid hour on the bike whilst watching the SLC finals.
Nip over to Manchester. Start with some campus board work, which was steady but working on abbreviated tests. Next was some compression hangs on the big round slopey things. Finish off this section with repeaters again on BM1000,  which is steady enough.
Do some circuits up to 7a to finish off at the wall, trying to focus on economy of effort, foot placement and recovery on the wall, all of which I’m rubbish at.
Gym on the way home, chest. Bench for doubles to easy 95, decline to 90 as shoulder not keen with the pressing quite as deep as this requires. On the incline bench do dumbbell Ts,Ys and Is, increasing the weight with each set. Finish strength training with floor compressions for 3x20 seconds.
Yoga for hips and stretching for splits, both of which are improving marginally, and do seem to make a difference as to where I can put my feet while climbing. Seems you might be able to teach old dogs new tricks.
3x3 minute planks, floor exercises and rollouts for abs.
Had planned an easy day, but just got into the swing of things and had a harder but bloody great day.

W - Go to Pudsey to try the new purples. Start off with yoga for shoulders, some small edge work, scapular exercises and stretching for upper body to get good and warmed up.
Great session. Tock off all bar 6 of the set, which may be the fewest I’ve had left after one session and did stop so I had some left to do on Friday, so actually didn’t try a couple at all.
Weights on the way home. 5x3 weighted pull-ups to start. Follow on with two arm static locks. Off set pull-ups, negatives and close grip pull-ups complete the pulling.
For core do 5 minute plank, levers, weighted hollow bodies and hyperextensions and rollouts.
Finish at the gym with stretching for pancake.
30 minutes on the bike.

T - Back down to Sheffield. Start in gym. Bench press for 3s up to a very shakey 90. Don’t seem to get set up right and pins are either just too high or just too low. On to prone T, Ys and Is followed by a combo of supine TYIs. Play with a standing dumbbell compression exercise, effectively a Standing Svend press with a dumbbell rather than plates.
Move onto the campus board, concentrating on bigger moves on bigger holds.
Good session on circuit board, playing with resting as little as I could, do a few, fail on last two moves of a few and work long links on the two harder (very fingery) ones (resting plenty when I was doing these). As a bonus, manage to do one of the purples that I hadn’t been able to work out how to do without using a throw that I couldn’t feasible hold.
Do 4x2 minute planks and floor exercises part of abs routine to rest fingers for a bit, then do steady repeaters on BM1000. Finish off on jumping and catching on the campus board. Kept the distances short today, but still good for contact strength. Became a very finger intensive session, which is good once in a while.
Half an hour cardio when I get home.
Yoga is for back and stretching for splits today.
Finish off with paused rollouts.
Another great day, but weary.

F - In the gym for ancillary muscles. Presses and raises for shoulders, curls for biceps, presses for triceps wrist curls and rolls.
Yoga for twists, fingers and feet, whilst I’m still at gym.
Go to Pudsey for social climbing and chilling with mates. Warm up with some hangs, scapular exercises, upper body stretches. A steady session, repeating purples, playing with different sequences and ticking a few more off the undone list.
Home for chilled out mindless rollouts and 30 minutes cardio.
Been a fun day that wasn’t too much of an effort.

S - Gym for legs training of deadlifts, squats and calf raises. Take a different approach today of higher reps but lower weight than normal.
Yoga for hands, which feel stiff and in need of some TLC. Stretching is for splits.
Hard roll outs. 

S - Rest

A good fun week.

[Coops_13]

M: Density pickups 20mm 40s 40lb *4 HC. Legs. Leg press, calf raise, knee extension, hamstring curl. X15 *3sets. Squats up to 165lb X5 *3sets - legs tired. Heavy core *3sets (weighted cable ab crunch, woodcutter). Lower body stretching

T: DBC. TA Max Hangs - 20 mm, 7s hangs up to +40lb * 3sets. Bouldering with 7 M+ boulders. Finished with weighted pull-ups (first since rupture) +45lb X5 *5sets. Some discomfort but OK

W: Density pickups 20mm 40s 40lb *4 HC. Chest. Bench press up to 185lb (BW) X3 *3sets. Pectoral fly and cable chest pulls *3sets. Shoulder press, bicep curl *3sets.

T: Scoop Boulder, Coal Creek Canyon. First time here, being shown round by a local. Cool boulder with lines up to V15. Warmed up on a V3 and V4 then spent all session eventually doing Murfy's Law V6 (sandbag). A cool arete, sharp and barn-doory. Big flapper on the send go.


S: Emerald Lake. First time in RMNP this season, reservations a pain in the arse again… Warmed up and got on Kind Sit Start V7. One pretty hard move that took a while and many beta changes to finally get. Fell off top once then put it down. Skin was pretty trashed by this time and everything felt hard - writing this off as an acclimatization day. Went to find White Wizard V8 which was cool but v sharp. Keen to come back in Autumn (lower elevation boulder and better things to be done)

[duncan]

Well done Duma, it sounds great.

M - Bouldering Stronghold. Attempted a try harder things session but a till tired from Dartmoor trip two days previously. Continued trying but, predictably, tweaked right middle finger as a result. Walked 10km.
T - box steps x 30 mins. Walked 10km.
W - Weighted pull-ups. Shoulder conditioning: IsYsTs on the rings, supported handstands, side planks. Walked 10km.
T - Fingerboard pickups: 40kg, left hand only.  Shoulders as above. Walked 11km.
F - Weighted pull-ups. Fingerboard (45mm edge, repeaters) both hands. Right hand felt fine with this.
S - Drove to Manchester. House hunting - walked 9km.
S - House hunting - walked 9km. Drove to Edinburgh. Shoulder conditioning.

Forced relative rest week but probably due one on the 3 weeks on 1 off principle. Hopefully taking advantage of the amazing weather for some Scottish trad.

[SA Chris]

M - run - 8.5 km, felt a bit jaded
T - kettlebells
W - weights
T - supposed to do a tempo run, but nice weather, so ran down to downies and provided spotting service, banter and beta, then back - 6 km (sprint to get son in time!)
F - haar in, Max hangs at lunch
S - haar in again, everywhere damp. got rope out and abbed down to clean holds on some new stuff and see fit like on the moves. 3 of the 4 will go with a few pads and spotters, 4th doesn't feel feasible - hard high up with a shitty landing. Might need some serious platforming before even contemplating
S - lovely inland, did the 3 Cairnwell Munros (and 1 top) with the family -   13km and 700m ascent. Cracking day for it.

[Will Hunt]

T - Big Depot routes

Sa - Kilnsey. Warmed up on New Mystique and Achilles Heel. Put the clips in Metal Guru. Had 3 redpoint goes over the course of the day. Attempt 1 fumbled the one-inch-punch between the left-hand pockets near the top of the second crux. Attempt 2 - as I was climbing my third finger made contact with the crux handhold which gave a bit of extra oomph, allowing me to finish the redpoint crux. Flummoxed my feet slightly and fell going for the left hand jug from which you pull onto the ledge - oops! 3rd attempt fell a few mm higher.
On goes 2 and 3 I pulled on again, did the crux, stood on the ledge for a while then went through to the top. I hadn't actually done the top section before which is only about 7a after a full hands off ledge-rest, but still a bit droppable when tired - hopefully that doesn't happen after actually managing the crux.

So I snatched defeat from the jaws of victory but the positives are that I figured out how to hold the crux handhold and got 3 very convincing redpoint goes out of my body.

[Bradders]

De-load week

M - Malham with Fiend. Lovely day. Warmed up going bolt-to-bolt on Bongo Fury. Top section felt a bit spicy, and I wasn't brave enough to link the top first time up. Went for a redpoint and got to the final section but a foot sequence error threw me off and I got a bit too pumped. Linked the end sequence after a short rope rest. Just about squeezed it over the line next go, thought I was off a couple of times on the final few moves. Really enjoyed it. Finished off going up Extra Over. Should have onsighted but dropped the last move, missing a hold and got too pumped looking for where to go. Did it 2nd go and it felt totally trivial.

Tu & W - rest

Th - Kilnsey with Spidermonkey. Very nearly went to Malham by mistake. Realised that when I thought I'd done Open Road a couple of weeks ago, I'd actually done Highway 395. Turns out they've both also lost quite a few holds recently, including a pretty massive block in the short time since I was last on it! Kilnsey init. Both probably more like 7a now anyway. Managed to just about onsight Open Road, was very close to dropping the last move and extremely glad it was a good hold that I lunged desperately to. Went up 50 for 5 to put the clips in and did all the moves and sequences. Finally managed to do the last little 3 move boulder problem! Tough last move, very bunched for me. Had one redpoint and dropped it just below the break. SM dished out loads of good beta that probably makes it all much easier than what I was doing. Had one go up Comedy for fun as SM had put the clips in, made it to the big move to the cigar, then went from the rest to the top (just!). SM then showed me how it's done with a casual lap of 50 for 5, which was very impressive. Finished by onsighting New Mystique to warm down.

F - rest

Sa - fingerboard, full crimp hangs 10mm 6s +20kg x4, 1 min rests, did all of them but probably a bit too close to the edge. Then 6x half crimp Lattice edge 10s hangs, +25kg.

Su - gardening in the sun

Still chronically lacking any sort of aerobic capacity, such that although all the moves on 50 for 5 don't feel too bad, I can't really even imagine being able to execute the finishing 3 moves after doing all the climbing below. Hopefully the better rest position at the 2nd tufa will help when I next try it.

[RobK]

M – Rest. AM, LI 10/50 hangs. PM, LI 30/30 hangs.

T – AM, LI 10/50 hangs. PM, max hangs. Thought I was feeling good after a rest day…couldn’t even manage the first hang at +25kg. Disappointing and sacked it off.

W – LPT after work. Feeling very low on motivation and almost didn’t bother. Busy when we arrived and draws already in Mussel Beach. Bumped into Shark who was out beta gathering  Had a quick warm up on the fingerboard and then 1st RP fell going for the pillar. Almost went home after that! Had another RP and fell in the same place. Going backwards on this now and chatting with mates on the way home I decided to take a break from projecting and maybe even climbing for an undetermined amount of time. My enjoyment levels have plummeted along with my performance levels of the past few weeks. Excited to get back running in the hills actually!

T – Press ups and planking in the sun.

F – 30 minute run breaking in some new trail shoes.

S – A couple of mates I hadn’t seen in a while were bouldering at the Gorge so decided to head down to see them. Had a half-hearted go at Mental Extension but was never really that into it. Bailed early and went for a nice 60 minute run afterwards from Pantymwyn down towards Loggerheads/Maeshafn.

S – Rest. Old school friend visiting so a nice chilled day with a BBQ in the evening.

I definitely came to a realisation on Wednesday that I am in need of a bit of a reset with my climbing. It’s annoying to have been going so well at the end of April and then appearing to have just dropped off a cliff performance wise just as sport season is starting but these things happen. Expect to see more running and mountain biking in these entries for the next little while, which I’m actually pretty psyched about.

[Duncan Disorderly]

Late, late, late! Just back from a few days int van...

M: Routes @ AW - Up to F6c feeling demotivated...
T: Routes @ Horsethieves with GF - Stolen session in between showers up to F6b+, nice! Went on to watch Reel Rock 15 at Hope valley drive-in with pizza and beer - pretty much as perfect a date night as you get ;-)
W: Shoulder stuff and second covid jab.
T: Burbage with daughter - Soloing up stuff with a rope on so I can bring her up... Did a few with her and then had an explore, probably did about 15 routes all-told - Ran into Largerstarfish, had a chat... Nice!
F: Rest
S: Wainstones - Bouldered up to 6B+ and did some routes up to HVS... Glorious spot, too warm really but was out with a lovely bunch so was ace to just potter on the blocs and put on a rope to bring the GF and her mates up some easies while enjoying the splendid views! Did some soloing to finish off... Top day!
S: Planned a surf in Saltburn but was pancake flat - Walked and chilled in the sun!

Cracking week... Not much training but out doing it and enjoying every minute!

[SA Chris]

Expect to see more running and mountain biking in these entries for the next little while, which I’m actually pretty psyched about.

Must be some great opportunities for running in the hills in Snowdonia; good high level parking and no massively high hills to contend with, plus some lovely natural corries (sorry cwms) and ridges.

We were up doing some Munros with the kids on Sunday and Robbie Simpson came charging past us twice. I had a look at his Strava and his 33km /1800m vert only took him 3 3/4 hours.

[tommytwotone]

Very late entry for me!

M: Continuation of house move
T: Last few bits of house move + cleaning old place
W: Completed on the sale - big relief.

Took a trip to LSD in the evening, good session - flashed a few V5s and saw off a V6 pretty quick. Good stress-buster after previous few days.

T-Sun: Nowt

[RobK]

Must be some great opportunities for running in the hills in Snowdonia; good high level parking and no massively high hills to contend with, plus some lovely natural corries (sorry cwms) and ridges.

Absolutely. I did a lot of fell running before I started climbing about 5 years ago but mostly in Scotland and the Lakes. Looking forward to exploring Snowdonia a bit more.

[spidermonkey09]

Very late entry due to Bank Holiday...

M - rest

T - Depot. My god, what a wall. Leeds has been getting screwed in terms of wall provision for years. Pottered around for a while and then did a few bits in the big roof. Flashed up to the 7b+. Amazing feature and totally unlike anything I've seen in a wall before. Flailed on the board for a while; miles off the pace. Really need to do some more fingerboarding or board training.

W - rest

T - Kilnsey with Bradders. Fortunately he arrived at the right crag! Had an onsight go on Visitation despite the top being wet as I thought I would be able to dog through/ lower off a glue in if not. Typically got there and found it unclimbably slimy so clip dropped all the way back down to the 3rd bolt before lowering off! Really good route though. Managed to RP Sticky Wicket for first time this year (nails), failed to run a lap on Comedy (no beans) and managed to squeak up 50/5 at the end of the session (skin of the teeth). Good mileage day ahead of a few days in Pembroke.

F - rest. Drove down to Pembroke.

S - Chapel Point to start- did Ultravixens and Octobrina which were both good, although I got slightly more gripped/pumped than I would have liked. Improved with time on the rock though so felt good enough to have a go at Space Cadet which I fell off about 6 years ago. A lot of rock has come off this making it pretty chunky low down but still fairly juggy. Climbed it well in roasting conditions up to the top groove, which I just about scraped through - definite heartbreaker potential. Good to get back in the swing of placing wires.

S - first time in Range West - went to Greenham Common to do Tasmanian Devil. Went the wrong way on the onsight/warm up and tested the threads. Second go was fine and went to the top - brilliant route, basically a clip up with loads of supplemental gear which can be placed at the resting jugs quite easily. Had a quick look at Mt Sion before bailing due to heat and retired to the cool of the Leap - perfect conditions. Had a go at Just Another Day/Scorch The Earth which I have wanted to do for years and it went well which was pleasing. Another brilliant route and probably the best i have climbed on an E5. Forgotten how good the Leap is.

Had a few more days in Pembroke but will save them for next week. So good to feel the warmth of the sun again.