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Extending a bolt with a long sling to avoid a run-out on a sport route?? (Read 5349 times)

jwi

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I would happily claim to have ascended any route I've done clean on top rope. It would be very complicated to arrange top-ropes on most of the routes I am usually trying, so it is a bit of a theoretical concept, but that is fitting for the subject.

shark

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Looking at the poll this has to be the worst selection of options ever.

Andy F

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There are definitely run outs on sport routes that are historic and add to the character (Supercool headwall, Revelations, Frankie comes to Kilnsey etc). The New Dawn run out isn't actually that bad and adds to the experience. But bad bolting needs sorting as happened to Dreamtime.

Supercool doesn't have a runout on it. Frankie is just sparsely bolted rather than having a single runout section.

Supercool used to have a tasty runout above the crux (protected by a thin thread IIRC) and was certainly originally climbed that way. It has since had at least one more bolt added.

Fiend

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Have been searching around for a F7c-ish project to seige for the next few years, I heard "New Dawn" at Malham was quite decent, so I've started warming up my technique for getting the clips sorted, am I doing it right??


Will Hunt

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You appear to have failed in even finding the start of the route. Back to trad bimbling for you.

Fiend

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What bit of "warming up my technique" was confusing? Obviously I need to get all the sling work sorted on something more accessible for settling into the big siege....

BRB, bulk-buying daisy-chains from V12Outdoors....


« Last Edit: May 25, 2021, 10:43:30 am by Fiend »

 

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