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Devon quick hit (Read 2342 times)

mr chaz

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Devon quick hit
May 18, 2021, 05:38:56 pm
Travelling from Midlands to Paignton for work, will have a free evening tomorrow night and looks to be a break in the weather.

Venue suggestions please for a couple of hours sampling some low grade Devonshire boulders? Haven't climbed in the area, will likely have one pad, on my own and without a guidebook. Bonehill? Combeshead Tor? TIA

Ged

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#1 Re: Devon quick hit
May 18, 2021, 07:39:14 pm
As unimaginative as it is, bonehill is probably your best bet for those criteria. It'll be lovely up there on a nice sunny evening tomorrow.

DAVETHOMAS90

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#2 Re: Devon quick hit
May 18, 2021, 07:40:11 pm
Hey Mr Chaz.  ;D

They sound like good options to me.

Hound Tor also worth checking out. Saddle Tor. Some slippery stuff at Chudleigh of course.
Dave (Bendy) Henderson's very useful online resource is here:

https://javu.co.uk/Climbing/Guides/DartmoorBouldering/index.shtml

Wow, it's been a long time..

It'll be very pleasant if you get a break in the weather  :2thumbsup:

seankenny

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#3 Re: Devon quick hit
May 18, 2021, 07:49:11 pm
Was down there for a family holiday a couple of weeks ago, my climbing criteria were very similar to yours and Bonehill worked well. I tried to visit Combeshead Tor as well but got a bit lost and it's a 20 minute walk to the crag, so I got up there with enough time to turn around and go home. It did look good, just perhaps not the ideal venue for the time-starved outsider.

Ged

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#4 Re: Devon quick hit
May 18, 2021, 08:14:48 pm
Combestone is also a lot more out the way if you're en route to Paignton

mr chaz

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#5 Re: Devon quick hit
May 18, 2021, 08:26:18 pm
Nice one, think thats decision made. Cheers Dave for the topo, hadn’t come across that!

Oldmanmatt

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#6 Re: Devon quick hit
May 18, 2021, 08:41:44 pm
Just seen this.
Yup, Bonehill. Hound tor if it’s overrun.
If it’s wet and you still want to train/climb indoors, drop me a line.

SA Chris

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#7 Re: Devon quick hit
May 18, 2021, 10:28:45 pm
Enjoy, take a fresh set of skin.

BrutusTheBear

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#8 Re: Devon quick hit
May 18, 2021, 11:05:04 pm
Yep. Go to Bonehill. 10 sec walk in, lots of problems across the grades all within a very compact area, great for a circuit, it's fairly exposed so will dry out well.. Can't really go wrong.
Dartmoor granite has a style of it's own, slappy climbing will most likely end in skin being shredded, static and smooth is the way.

Oldmanmatt

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#9 Re: Devon quick hit
May 18, 2021, 11:30:57 pm
Yep. Go to Bonehill. 10 sec walk in, lots of problems across the grades all within a very compact area, great for a circuit, it's fairly exposed so will dry out well.. Can't really go wrong.
Dartmoor granite has a style of it's own, slappy climbing will most likely end in skin being shredded, static and smooth is the way.

Alternatively, smash your car windscreen and do handstands on the broken glass cubes. Same thing, really.

mr chaz

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#10 Re: Devon quick hit
May 19, 2021, 09:25:44 am
Just seen this.
Yup, Bonehill. Hound tor if it’s overrun.
If it’s wet and you still want to train/climb indoors, drop me a line.

Cheers OMM, where's your wall? Got Thurs night to kill as well, weather/skin depending

Oldmanmatt

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#11 Re: Devon quick hit
May 19, 2021, 04:51:56 pm
We’re in Torquay.
11 South st.

tommytwotone

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#12 Re: Devon quick hit
May 19, 2021, 04:55:59 pm
And as [UKB fallen soldier] Dave once said to me - get in training by sitting at home punching a cheese grater...

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#13 Re: Devon quick hit
May 19, 2021, 06:53:09 pm
I honestly sandpaper my finger tips and palms in the week leading up to a Dartmoor trip. couple of times a day with 80 or 120 grit. Make sure you leave a few days for skin to grow back hard. It works really well.

Going there with soft skin can be a recipe for disaster...

mr chaz

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#14 Re: Devon quick hit
May 19, 2021, 09:23:13 pm
Had a great time this evening climbing everything in sight that looked easy. Couldn’t resist jumping on rippled wall, only to find myself near the top and my lone pad feeling very far away, bottled it and down climbed/ jumped. Bollocks! Unique climbing, gritstone shapes but like pulling on Lego.

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#15 Re: Devon quick hit
May 20, 2021, 04:33:12 am
Excellent!

 :2thumbsup:

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#16 Re: Devon quick hit
May 20, 2021, 09:15:20 am
Glad you had a good time up there, hope the skin isn't feeling to abused this morning?

I imagine it was fairly busy and pretty glorious up there, there really are some stunning spots around and the moor is an absolutely glorious place to be when the weather plays ball.

I'd spent so much time in the wooded venues and forgot how gorgeous it is up there until an evening over at Tunhill last year, magic!

If the weather over there is anything like here I imagine its the wall today if you still have the skin!

Enjoy!

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#17 Re: Devon quick hit
May 20, 2021, 12:47:08 pm
 :2thumbsup: Bonehill is great... There's enough there to keep most folk entertained for many many visits.
The break in weather didn't last long, very stormy today.

ben

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#18 Re: Devon quick hit
May 20, 2021, 01:22:01 pm
Unique climbing, gritstone shapes but like pulling on Lego.
about sums it up!  albeit very sharp lego.. 
RW - I've shouted for a spot from some poor passer by on this before in a similar situation  ;)

 

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