[IanP]

The jugs at the eyes are pretty big so you'll be able to recover there in time.

I didn’t try a knee, but at the time I was reasonably trad fit and could rest quite well at the eyes on the jugs. The guy I was trying it with wasn’t quite so fit and used to spend just long enough there for his breathing to slow before sprinting onwards!

Bizarrely I found the clip at the end of the crux (off the boss/before the ear? It’s long enough ago I forget what all the holds are called!) really hard and that was my redpoint crux - I only ever clipped it once from the ground! I got far enough into my struggles with it that I started to consider clipping the mid crux one (on the wall above the eyes that I think is commonly skipped) and gunning it to the top from there.

No knee for me a decade ago, eyes are big and you can move around to get some decent recovery.  I skipped the next clip and then extended the one off the boss so could clip pretty much by the waist rather than having to pull rope up and clip in front of me, seemed to make a suprising amount of difference.

It's a great route and certainly worth sticking with, I found the steep physicality made it feel really hard for me initially until I got more accustomed to it.

[nai]

bolt to bolted up Sticky Wicket... falling on the onsight go.

Nice try 

[AJM]

I clipped the mid crux one off the big left hand sidepull but didn't clip off the boss; if you do the moves into the slot you can reach back down and clip it from there. Its nails clipping it off the boss!

Yeah even as per Ian's point with about 4 draws chained on it I still found it desperate. I think I was on my "one last go" trying to do it from the boss before either going past it to clip or clipping the mid crux one (which I think I'd have done off a right hand, perhaps) and not bothering...

[Will Hunt]

The jugs at the eyes are pretty big so you'll be able to recover there in time.

When are you fucking people going to understand just how shit and unfit I am? Obvs the holds are big but they're thin and uncomfortable. I was struggling to drop a knee far enough to kill the steepness and rest properly. Maybe a better rest for those with less leg? If there's a kneebar that helps I'd use it.

We both thought the clipping would work exactly as Jim said.

[tim palmer]

The top of the ashes is significantly easier for the tall so I am expecting a mighty downgrade Will.

[moose]

The jugs at the eyes are pretty big so you'll be able to recover there in time.

When are you fucking people going to understand just how shit and unfit I am? Obvs the holds are big but they're thin and uncomfortable. I was struggling to drop a knee far enough to kill the steepness and rest properly. Maybe a better rest for those with less leg? If there's a kneebar that helps I'd use it.

We both thought the clipping would work exactly as Jim said.

I could just about fit in the knee bar (right knee in left eye, I think) but it was very painful and not hands off - my knee crushed my right hand.  I personally found it more trouble that it was worth, and preferred to use low smears and shake out normally. 

Be glad that it's slightly easier than it used to be. The first left-hand hold after the RH glued crimp used to be a crap pinch that you had to hastily go-again from.  Then a trapped block fell out of it to leave the present good side-pull, which you can clip from more easily.  The clip there was most often skipped (mainly used for dogging the route), which made the prospect of clipping / skipping at the boss a bit more exciting.

[Andy F]

The top of the ashes is significantly easier for the tall so I am expecting a mighty downgrade Will.

I heard it's 7b+ for people as tall as Will. Possibly 7b if you're a 7C+ Grit boulderer.
It felt middle 7c+ for a short weak sport punter.

[Duma]

M - pm UCR, doubles on 7a's. Felt ok. Then nights.
T - sleep, nights.
W - sleep, pm TCA for 40 min before work, bit pointless really. Nights.
T - sleep, nights.
F - sleep, sleep
S - daughters bday stuff, drank too much in eve
S - hungover, stayed in bed all day.

71kg

Bit of a lost week really.

[Rob F]

Just to clarify here. You get an upgrade if you clip the bolts and a downgrade if you are tall???

I'm leaving hand jam kneebars out of it as that has been covered in great depth elsewhere.

Will - you are going to have to have about 4 slash grades in your book just to cover all the permutations...

[Andy F]

Just to clarify here. You get an upgrade if you clip the bolts and a downgrade if you are tall???

Will - you are going to have to have about 4 slash grades in your book just to cover all the permutations...

Point 1 : Yes
Point 2: there are only 2 grades. The actual grade and the Hunt® grade. They are not necessarily the same but do accurately represent the grades a route/problem may be given