I found in the past my max hang scores drop if I do density hangs, but my fingers felt less tweaky Rob, max hangs always tend to go back up quickly in my experience though once I start again I've found.
S - Garda Trentino Trail race - 63km 3700m. ... and I finished in 7h53m.S - Went to Martinswand instead and tried an 8a+/b (Supergoof) that I had been curious about. The routes are absolutely desperate
Quote from: JohnM on May 17, 2021, 09:20:08 amS - Garda Trentino Trail race - 63km 3700m. ... and I finished in 7h53m.S - Went to Martinswand instead and tried an 8a+/b (Supergoof) that I had been curious about. The routes are absolutely desperate As always I remain absolutely amazed by your ability to be smashing it running one day then be recovered enough to go back to hard sport climbing the next day! Sure even most fit folk would be due a day in the couch after that running
Quote from: teestub on May 17, 2021, 09:44:11 amQuote from: JohnM on May 17, 2021, 09:20:08 amS - Garda Trentino Trail race - 63km 3700m. ... and I finished in 7h53m.S - Went to Martinswand instead and tried an 8a+/b (Supergoof) that I had been curious about. The routes are absolutely desperate As always I remain absolutely amazed by your ability to be smashing it running one day then be recovered enough to go back to hard sport climbing the next day! Sure even most fit folk would be due a day in the couch after that runningLikewise
M - Max hangs, had got up to +31kg at the end of April so aimed for +30kg. This felt like the living end and I was failing after about 5 seconds. Ended up dropping all the way down to +25kg and this was still a struggle. OK I had been at LPT the day before but this was still a bit annoying. I knew I had been feeling a bit off the pace the past couple of weeks which I’d put down to the density hangs wrecking my forearms and this was definitely an eye opener. Feel way down on strength from a few weeks ago which has shown through in fingerboard scores, and I’m not 100% sure why. Trying not to read too much into it and hope things balance out.
Has anyone else ever tried density hangs and ever felt any negative effects? I tried them out a few months back (about 6-8 weeks of once or twice a week) to try and settle down some minor niggles as a bit of an experiment. Those niggles did settle down, although whether the hangs had anything to do with that is anyone's guess. But for some sessions and part of the season I also often felt like my forearms felt almost 'blocked'. Bit of a hard feeling to describe really, almost like getting powered out pretty instantly. Again, this could just all be in my head but since I stopped doing them I've felt like I'm getting back to normal a bit.
TTT, I’m in a similar place with house selling: twitchy buyer and nowhere to move to.
I've been informed that there is a hands off knee bar in the eyes on the Ashes. Any truth to this and any info on how it goes in?
The jugs at the eyes are pretty big so you'll be able to recover there in time.
Bizarrely I found the clip at the end of the crux really hard and that was my redpoint crux - I only ever clipped it once from the ground! I got far enough into my struggles with it that I started to consider clipping the mid crux one (on the wall above the eyes that I think is commonly skipped) and gunning it to the top from there.
Quote from: spidermonkey09 on May 18, 2021, 01:59:31 pmThe jugs at the eyes are pretty big so you'll be able to recover there in time.I didn’t try a knee, but at the time I was reasonably trad fit and could rest quite well at the eyes on the jugs. The guy I was trying it with wasn’t quite so fit and used to spend just long enough there for his breathing to slow before sprinting onwards! Bizarrely I found the clip at the end of the crux (off the boss/before the ear? It’s long enough ago I forget what all the holds are called!) really hard and that was my redpoint crux - I only ever clipped it once from the ground! I got far enough into my struggles with it that I started to consider clipping the mid crux one (on the wall above the eyes that I think is commonly skipped) and gunning it to the top from there.
bolt to bolted up Sticky Wicket... falling on the onsight go.
I clipped the mid crux one off the big left hand sidepull but didn't clip off the boss; if you do the moves into the slot you can reach back down and clip it from there. Its nails clipping it off the boss!
Quote from: spidermonkey09 on May 18, 2021, 01:59:31 pmThe jugs at the eyes are pretty big so you'll be able to recover there in time.When are you fucking people going to understand just how shit and unfit I am? Obvs the holds are big but they're thin and uncomfortable. I was struggling to drop a knee far enough to kill the steepness and rest properly. Maybe a better rest for those with less leg? If there's a kneebar that helps I'd use it.We both thought the clipping would work exactly as Jim said.
The top of the ashes is significantly easier for the tall so I am expecting a mighty downgrade Will.
Just to clarify here. You get an upgrade if you clip the bolts and a downgrade if you are tall???Will - you are going to have to have about 4 slash grades in your book just to cover all the permutations...