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Power Club 583 10-16 May 2021 (Read 5584 times)

shark

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Power Club 583 10-16 May 2021
May 16, 2021, 12:22:33 pm
11.5-7 average 160.3 up 0.6lbs

M. Llandudno with Paul on a slightly iffy forecast. Couple of light showers but otherwise mint. Couple of tie ins on Statement. The holds appeared to have shrunk. Thought I’d be skipping across the top traverse but it’s still challenging. Third tie in I split a tip that delaminated the middle of one of my tips. Came down and taped up with superglue. Next go made better work of the top traverse but not still not in a oner. Bummer.

T. Nice weather in morning whilst the tide was in but previously unforecasted bad weather rolled in during the afternoon and we could see from a distance that the top of Statement was drenched even before the hail and lightening started. Taped my tip up again and had a go on Rock Atrocity with Paul. Could do the first move and almost the second and third. Didn’t try the finish. Good problem. Lacking lock strength for it. Could see myself getting involved with if it was at the Tor.

W.

T.

F. LPT cancelled so felt unmotivated. Lunch Managed to get my shit together to do a set of recruitment and speed pulls.
PM/Eve Tor. Reasonably busy but ok. Tip a lot better but taped up anyway to protect it. Decided I’d have a concerted effort at working on doing the throw move by the more standard and more static method. Thought it would all be about the lock in my left arm but the recent stretching I’ve been doing allowed me to get into position and drop my knees more comfortably which helped a lot. Only managed the move once but felt easy when I did it. Reverted to the dynamic method and did it once to the kick and then surprised myself by doing it comfortably from the throw all the way though into THFML only to drop the reach for the rail. After had a three tie ins on Tin Of including red pointing it once.

S.

S.

Weather scuppered plans this week. Had considered going back to LPT on Friday and climb with one of the locals whilst tides were good but forecast looked iffy so arranged for Malham on Thursday then shortly after bailed as Mescalito was reported as wet. By then the forecast for LPT had changed for better and persuaded Paul to go back to LPT. On Friday morning we bailed on LPT as forecast had changed to rain and ended up at Tor.

I enjoyed getting away to Llandudno and made more plans to do similar. Currently aiming to regain the level of stamina I had in the past whilst keeping strength ticking over.

No desire to get back on the Oak which is bizarre given how obsessed I’ve been with it for so long. Be interesting to see if it’s rekindled come the autumn but not going to force it. Whilst on one hand it’s nice not to have the pressure of trying the Oak but on the other I also miss the single minded focus it elicits. One consequence is that I’ve been overly relaxed with my diet so weight has been gradually creeping back up so will look to trim back a couple of pounds over next couple of weeks. Will restart food diary this week.

Weather forecast still unsettled this week so will probably have a concerted effort on Bens.
« Last Edit: June 13, 2021, 10:18:21 am by duncan »

RobK

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#1 Re: Power Club 581 10-16 May 2021
May 16, 2021, 03:37:32 pm
Glad to hear you've been enjoying the Llandudno visits Shark. It's a lovely spot and somehow even if you have a down session, being by the sea makes it a little bit better!

M - Max hangs, had got up to +31kg at the end of April so aimed for +30kg. This felt like the living end and I was failing after about 5 seconds. Ended up dropping all the way down to +25kg and this was still a struggle. OK I had been at LPT the day before but this was still a bit annoying. I knew I had been feeling a bit off the pace the past couple of weeks which I’d put down to the density hangs wrecking my forearms and this was definitely an eye opener. A couple of weeks ago +25 had felt nice and steady as a warm up weight. Finished with 8 x 30 on/60 off of board laddering.

T - Rest. Back on the Low intensity hangs which I got on really well with a couple of months back but have let slip for some reason. AM - 10/20 hangs, PM - 30/30 hangs.

W - Lunch, max hangs as a warm up for the crag. Got through a full set of +25kg which even after a rest day felt close to my limit. Disappointing. LPT after work, one bolt to bolt of Mussel Beach as a warm up and then three RPs. Great conditions. First RP got left hand to the pillar round the roof and dropped the match. Second RP I held the match but couldn’t then get my feet up. Third go I was tired and the less said the better but happy enough with the first two which were both high points. Felt like I was starting to get my flow on a rope back. Just a couple more moves to go to get established on the head wall and then it’s game on.

T - Rest. LI 10/20 hangs.

F - Troller’s Gill, one of my favourite crags. Tides weren't great for LPT and I was keen to get some mileage/ticks under my belt anyway so this worked well. Warmed up with a bolt to bolt of Haslem, what a fantastic route. Got it on the next go, although I did go into the juggy rest at the top. Seems pretty eliminate not to and it makes a really good 7b like this. Then had a go at Angelic Upstart which felt like the hardest 7a in the world. Dropped the onsight going for the third clip which was an exciting fall. Got it next go but not without a bit of effort. All big holds but they all face the wrong way without any feet! The top bit is easy but feels much harder when you think every hold is going to explode in your face.

S - Last minute decision to go to the Matchworks Hangar, first time at a wall this year. Love the setting here and at Sandhills. I’d forgotten just how much mileage it’s possible to get indoors and had a bit of a mammoth session doing as many of the red, white and yellows as possible. Absolutely done in by the end.

S - Rest, half thought about LPT this evening but it would have probably been rather pointless after yesterday. LI 10/20 hangs.

A bit of an up and down week, up in that I feel like I’m starting to get my groove back on a rope, down in that I feel like I’ve got my build up to the season all wrong. Feel way down on strength from a few weeks ago which has shown through in fingerboard scores, and I’m not 100% sure why. Trying not to read too much into it and hope things balance out.

yetix

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#2 Re: Power Club 581 10-16 May 2021
May 16, 2021, 10:58:56 pm
I found in the past my max hang scores drop if I do density hangs, but my fingers felt less tweaky Rob, max hangs always tend to go back up quickly in my experience though once I start again I've found.

M: rest
T: rest
W: did some front 3 half crimp work 7/53x6 and some wrist exercises then headed to the Bowderstone. Warmed up on the ramp, then picnic, then did power pinch to the edges below the final hold then did Impropa Opera stand before getting on the sit, figured out if I did the 3rd move of the sit just committing to the move fully rather than trying to do it by locking to the base of the start hold and then getting locked in. Also figured from watching videos that I never looked at the hold I was going to for the first move until I pulled on, so was pulling on and hanging for a second to find the hold before going for the hold. Managed to do the first move within a few goes and then had progressively better goes until getting to the 3rd to last hold and as locking to the 2nd to last hold my left hand ripped (due to tape sliding on the rock I think) felt fresh that go so just need another like that. Right index was pretty smashed in the end so decided to work the stand in tape, managed to do it 2/4 times. Feels like if I can sort my skin this will be a goer soon and then onto grand hopefully.
T: rest
F: did some front 3 half crimp work 7/53x9 and some wrist exercises. Planned to go the Tor and try Ben's but felt unmotivated due to skin issues so opted got heading to Boulder UK and get on the 55, managed 7/8 problems I tried from my usual circuit (didn't try the 2 harder ones) and got to the last move of the one I didn't send. Body tension felt lacking massively and I was very noodley but could pull my way up stuff. Might be good to head back for a few sessions and see if I can get a little tension back. Did some wrist exercises with weights but managed to aggrovate my right wrist a little.
S: rest
S: did some front 3 half crimp work 7/53x3 and some wrist exercises. Went to the cave to get on Hatch Atrocity, had 4 attempts all hitting the flake and matching once only to greese off. Poor Connie's imo but that's the UK I guess, had 2 goes on Hatch Life got to the throw both goes, 1 my foot hit but slid off the other didn't. Quick hour of rest then went to pill box but felt more fatigued than expected.

Psyched got Impropa and Hatch atm, probably gonna keep trying them for now and see what happens, had enjoyed trying things I could mostly do in a session, but having found motivation to project I might as well follow the psych.
« Last Edit: May 16, 2021, 11:25:04 pm by yetix »

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#3 Re: Power Club 581 10-16 May 2021
May 16, 2021, 11:31:41 pm
M: Density pickups 20mm 40s 40lb *4 HC. Legs. Leg press, calf raise, knee extension, hamstring curl. X15 *3sets. Squats up to 165lb *3sets. Heavy core *3sets (weighted cable ab crunch, woodcutter). Lower body stretching

T: DBC. 20mm repeaters 5s on, 5s off X5 *4sets. -45lb, -40lb, -35lb, -35lb. Bouldering doing 8M-, 10 M, 3 M+. Pull-ups EMOM X7 *10mins - first time completing 7. 3sets of pectoral fly, shoulder press. Finished with some dips

W: Density pickups 20mm 40s 40lb *4 HC. 1.6 mile hike up Dinosaur Ridge

T: Clear Creek Canyon. Checking out some climbs on the new Butterfly Effect boulder. BE itself looks amazing but out of reach for now (originally V14 now settled at V12). The other boulders are a bit shit. Flashed the V4 Butterfly Dust that was alright but dirty. Sent the dabby Mourning Cloak V5 after. Tried a V7 on the L but it had a dynamic crux move with RH that I didn't want to attempt (bad finger side) so called it a day


F: Density pickups 20mm 40s 40lb *4 HC.

S: Solo trip up to Lion's Den before an afternoon party. Got straight on Hyperion Proboscis V6, a very phallic looking classic. Stiff for V6 and took some work (and a lot of skin) to send. Then went on to Big Cat, highball V4. Psyched to get that. Finished doing some easier stuff to wear down the skin further


S: 3 mile walk round Denver with pup. Lower body stretching

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#4 Re: Power Club 581 10-16 May 2021
May 17, 2021, 07:52:07 am
STG: Shipley Alt. Circuit problems / routes all ticked
MTG: Above in a day
LTG: Font 7a (outdoors) again


Nowt much this week, house move stress - selling our place, completion impending, nowhere to buy but had a rental sorted out...then landlady decided she'd rather get a kitchen installed before we moved in, putting our house sale in jeopardy.


Only thing I managed was:


Thurs: Trip to LSD - lots of new things to try (didn't go last week after 1st COVID jab). Managed 2 of the V6s, one flash (probably a bit generous, and on slab / inc. a fingerlock / jam, so very much my home turf) and one I had to really work for.


Sat: Took daughter (7) to Big Depot, she did loads of routes and then managed her goal of one of the "grown ups" problems on the bouldering. I pottered about, managed to randomly flash a purple (V5-V7).


Weird at the moment - feeling like I'm not climbing that much, definitely pretty out of shape / overweight, and got a lot of stuff going on / stress with house move and job etc, but seem to be getting things done when I get the chance.


JohnM

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#5 Re: Power Club 581 10-16 May 2021
May 17, 2021, 09:20:08 am
M - Rest

T - Back on Schwarzer Schwan (8c) - session 6. Got through the crux traverse twice again and went into the top crux fresher than ever but didn't get any further than before. My feet seemed to be rolling off the footholds and to top this off I couldn't seem to do the top jump move anymore, even in isolation. I thought this was purely down to conditions but since then I think it might due to my wrist injury. Frustrating! Our regular partners at the crag were also there (former Austrian team member). Although we had been pretty evenly matched in terms of getting to the same high point, on her last go of the day she completely cruised the route and showed the pedigree that comes with being a high level comp climber for years! Conditions are crap for the foreseeable now and I think it also a good time to have a break from the route. I think I remember Ondra saying something that if you are not making any further progress after 6 sessions it is time to have a break.

W - Trail run 9.92km 375m

T - Trail run 5.13km 203m

F - Drive to Arco

S - Garda Trentino Trail race - 63km 3700m. My goal was to finish in under 8 hours but to be honest I didn't know if I could even finish the race if my dodgy knee tendon started to play up. In the end my knee was mostly fine (the rehab worked!) and I finished in 7h53m. Definitely the best I have ever paced and fueled a race and I still felt pretty fresh afterwards. The only disappointing thing was that in previous years I would have finished in the top 15 with my time. However, this year with the lack of other options, due to cancelled/postponed races, the field was extremely strong and I finished 52nd.

S - AM: Easy bike ride by the river for recovery 27km. PM: Drove towards Silz crag to try a bouldery 8a+ there but turned back after hitting a wall of bad weather in the car! Went to Martinswand instead and tried an 8a+/b (Supergoof) that I had been curious about. The routes are absolutely desperate for the grade and some of the holds are extremely painful there. It would be easy to dismiss them if the moves weren't so interesting. This route has interesting and intricate moves leading to a sideways jump/lunge into a huge jug which is fun. Worked out all the moves and did some big links before my skin became too sore and I called it a day.   

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#6 Re: Power Club 581 10-16 May 2021
May 17, 2021, 09:35:53 am
 W/C 10/5/21

Great ticks Yetix.

M -Abs/core, yoga and stretching, scapulars, small edges. Sheffield purples, deadlifts and pulls, cardio
T - campus, repeaters, compressions, big roof fun and games, chest and compression, abs, yoga and stretching, cardio
W - Cardio, yoga, abs/core, stretching, volume, pulls, density hangs, more stretching.
T - Campus, repeaters, abs, yoga and stretching, chest and compression, circuit board, cardio
F - Ancillary muscles, Pudsey social, yoga and stretching, cardio, large hold repeaters, abs
S - Abs, yoga, legs, stretching, cardio
S -Cardio, abs, yoga and stretching

Feeling psyched at the moment and very happy to be spending my days doing what I enjoy.

M - Start the day with 5 minute plank, levers, weighted hollow bodies and hyperextensions.
Drive to Sheffield. Warm up with stretches of upper body, calves and sciatic nerve and then do yoga routine for hamstrings.
Scapular exercises as part of warm up. Move on to some small edge stuff for 6x10 seconds on 6mm edges. First set feels nails but after that I get used to the feeling and get rest down to around 30 seconds and it feels okay.
Then get on with the purples, manage to do all bar about six, which I’m pleased with, particularly as just cracked on moving from problem to problem. No surprise the ones I found harder were a bit more technical generally.
Weights: deadlifts and pulls. Start with deadlifts working up to a single 150, then double 140 and triple 130. OAP and lacks are next with weight added on right and taken off on LH. Finish with pull ups for speed.
Go back to the climbing with the goal of climbing 10 reds and then stopping, while still feeling strong. Flash 10 problems in just under 10 minutes, which felt pretty pushed for time, but I did still feel strong, so objective ticked.
Very steady 30 minutes cardio.
New abs roller arrives in the afternoon, so 50 steady reps.
Good day.

T - Manchester for a session in the early morning. Start with campus board stuff, working on bigger arm movements and technique. Hitting the same marks as same session last week.
Repeaters, which are pretty solid throughout range of grips.
4x10 second compression holds on 50° board, using differing hold sizes and distance between them.
Next is some playing about on the big roof, working longer links on the left hand side. Concentrating on being more energy conservative and less trying to muscle my way up.
Gym today is chest and compression. Bench press for triples up to 95, decline doubles to 100 and incline is 60 for 3x8. Again use dumbbells for 3x5 TYI  combos which isolate chest nicely. Floor compressions to finish chet off.
For abs do 3x3 minute planks, floor exercises and 60 paused roll outs.
Yoga is for hips and stretching is for splits, both of which go well.
An hour’s steady pedalling for cardio.

W - Easy half hour on the bike to start the day off.
Yoga for shoulders to follow, which feels very relaxing.
Five minute plank and abs roll outs to fire the core. 
Back to Manchester, this time for a planned easy social session of reds and blacks. Warming up with upper body stretching. Great session, getting through virtually all the reds and blacks and a good proportion of the purples. Huge amount of volume and was definitely on downward slope when I stopped, but not taken too far down the rabbit hole.
Weights was pull based. Start with 4x5 weighted pull ups. wo arm lock offs on the bar and one arm negatives on the pull down machine. Offset pull-ups and close grip pull ups are next for the pulls. Scapular strengthening exercises finish this section.
For core do three sets of front levers, weighted hollow bodies and hyperextensions.
At home in the evening do 6x30 seconds of density hangs.
Stretching for pancake and, as predicted last week, manage to get my head down to the floor at the end of the session. I can’t hold it there quite yet but it went without overstraining comfortably enough.
Today has been another excellent day.

T - Down to Sheffield. Start on campus board with big moves on big holds and am touching 1-4-7 but not quite holding it on the biggest rungs, fingers crossed I’ll soon be able to do this again. Mix the repeaters up a bit with 6 sts on the 10mm edges with a minute rest between sets. Find it easy with a closer grip but much harder with a wider grip. Seems like a useful addition. Next do some jumping and catching on the campus board, which seems to be improving, although coud just be in a bit more coordinated and timing is better.
Next is abs with 3x3minute planks, floor routine and rollouts.
Yoga for back flexibility and stretching for splits comes next.
Chest and compression training. 3x10 bench press to start. Prone rings for Ts, Ys and Is for 3x5 each. Supine TWI combo to finish off. On to the circuit board, doing circuits up to 7b+, including doing a couple going one into another. All this had me trying hard, but at the same time trying to concentrate on staying smooth whilst battling. Happy enough.
A worthwhile drive south.
An hour on bike when I get home.

F - Dumbbell presses, lateral raises, front raises and shrugs for shoulders. Range of curls and presses for biceps and triceps. Wrist rolls and wrist curls to finish weights.
Yoga is for twists, hands and feet.
Pudsey for a social session. Warm up with upper body streching and scapular exercises. Good fun session playing with technique, mainlyived by trying the wood problems without allowing the use of thumbs, which led to the need to be creative with body positions on some of the problems. Onto the circuit board, work out the moves on the hardest circuit and do some long links to work on in the future. Then do a couple of circuits on their own and then link one into another for a proper pump.
Home early as having second jab.
In the afternoon get back on the bike for an hour.
Large hold repeaters for 3x5 minutes, don’t get as pumped on first set as I normally do, which is
Follow this with 100 rhythmic chilling out rollouts.

S - Arm aches a bit when I get up, so skip social climbing this morning.
Hard rollouts and yoga for fingers early on.
Head to gym for leg exercises. Deadlifts up to 160 which is the heaviest I’ve lifted since 2018 and, even though I properly have to grind it out, I am very chuffed. Next is squats for 3x6, working up to 70. Finish with calf raises for 4x10 on the leg press.
Stretching for splits when I get home.
30 minutes of cardio.

S - 30 minutes on the bike in the morning.
Yoga for abs followed by stretching for pancake and then upper body.
50 easy rollouts for abs.

Great week, proper psyched.

Bradders

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#7 Re: Power Club 581 10-16 May 2021
May 17, 2021, 09:37:32 am
I found in the past my max hang scores drop if I do density hangs, but my fingers felt less tweaky Rob, max hangs always tend to go back up quickly in my experience though once I start again I've found.

Yeah any kind of fatigue will really quickly take away from your ability to do a maximal effort like a short duration hang. Have to remember that you're not trying to "perform" on the fingerboard.

RobK

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#8 Re: Power Club 581 10-16 May 2021
May 17, 2021, 09:43:32 am
I found in the past my max hang scores drop if I do density hangs, but my fingers felt less tweaky Rob, max hangs always tend to go back up quickly in my experience though once I start again I've found.

Thanks yetix, this definitely corresponds with what I've found. I'm not that bothered about the max hang score particularly, as Bradders says I'm not aiming for fingerboard performance, it's just that it seems to have coincided with a slight drop in form.

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#9 Re: Power Club 581 10-16 May 2021
May 17, 2021, 09:44:11 am

S - Garda Trentino Trail race - 63km 3700m. ... and I finished in 7h53m.

S - Went to Martinswand instead and tried an 8a+/b (Supergoof) that I had been curious about. The routes are absolutely desperate

As always I remain absolutely amazed by your ability to be smashing it running one day then be recovered enough to go back to hard sport climbing the next day! Sure even most fit folk would be due a day in the couch after that running

Bradders

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#10 Re: Power Club 581 10-16 May 2021
May 17, 2021, 09:47:28 am

S - Garda Trentino Trail race - 63km 3700m. ... and I finished in 7h53m.

S - Went to Martinswand instead and tried an 8a+/b (Supergoof) that I had been curious about. The routes are absolutely desperate

As always I remain absolutely amazed by your ability to be smashing it running one day then be recovered enough to go back to hard sport climbing the next day! Sure even most fit folk would be due a day in the couch after that running

Likewise  :jaw:

Bradders

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#11 Re: Power Club 581 10-16 May 2021
May 17, 2021, 09:56:24 am
M - rest. DOMS from training previous day plus must have tweaked my back doing rings work as it was pretty sore.

Tu - AM - fingerboard, 10mm full crimp hangs +12kg 6s x4, 1 min rests, then Lattice edge half crimp +25kg 10s x6, 2 min rests. Still a little off where I want to be on this as have done the 20mm half crimp part of the session +34kg previously, and my absolute max is somewhere around +42kg. Short rests make it so much harder, and as above any kind of fatigue beforehand skims even more off.

Tu - PM - board session on problems with personal weaknesses. Having done my crossovers based problem for the first time last week managed it three times in a row this time. Made my wide engagement problem a bit harder, using wider but better holds, and nearly did it. Good progress on this, feeling better in open shoulder positions. Undercuts problem was better than last week but still feels nails. Finished with foot on campus ladders, 5x 1 min on 2 mins off.

W - back sore again in the morning but felt fine by lunch so did conditioning; pull ups, scap holds and shoulder press.

Th - Kilnsey in the afternoon. Faffed my way up Open Road to try and warm up. Got a bit lost and scared of pulling big chunks of choss off. Had to have a couple of rests to avoid too much pump. Did it cleanly next go knowing where I was going. Felt more like 7a to me, similar to The Jim Grin at Trollers. Went up 50 for 5 putting the clips in but came off at the first tufa. Went again from the start straight away and made it to the second tufa okay. Did the next sequence to the big jug ledge 2nd go, then worked the last 3 move boulder problem. Last move feels super bunched for me but at least managed it this time having failed to do all the moves in a session last year, I think partly due to fear which thankfully wasn't as bad this time. Did the last move 3 times in a row then stripped it. Feels harder than Comedy to me! I imagine it would be a good route for me to do given it's working a big weakness in terms of route power endurance, but not sure I fancy falling off the end of it a lot. Came home and did some conditioning; core, hamstring work, Turkish get ups, scap engagement and rotator cuff exercises.

F - rest. Tired and aching!

Sa - AM - fingerboard, 10mm half crimp 6s hangs x5 with 90sec rests, +17kg. Then an hour and a bit on the board trying projects. Generally a fairly average session but near the end managed a great link on a problem that manages to pack all my weaknesses into just 6 moves.

Sa - PM - Big Depot for some rope volume. Tied in for 5 routes from 6c to 7a+ in 2.5hrs. Only actually did one of them, all the rest I basically got to about 2/3rds height and just couldn't hold on anymore, then went to the top after a short rest on the rope. Nice demonstration of my almost complete lack of base aerobic fitness! But good to get lots of routes in.

Su - fingerboard, 5 rep 6/10 repeaters, x6 sets with 3 min rests, 20mm edge, +16kg half crimp for first 3, rest bodyweight front 3 drag. Then did 8x 12 move above flash level problem on my board. Made it harder than last week by swapping a jug for a full pad edge which makes it more sustained. Dropped last move of 6th & 8th reps. Finished with aerocap, 3x 5 mins on, 3 mins off on a juggy circuit on my 25' board, with low pump.

Decent training week making up for lack of outdoor wins. Nice to see progression in a few areas despite continued high volume. Double sessions also working really well.

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#12 Re: Power Club 581 10-16 May 2021
May 17, 2021, 10:01:32 am
Jesus John, I make that 78km of running, 27km on the bike, a few goes on an 8c and a session on an 8a+ in a week. You're giving Gollum a run for his money!

M - after stressing about feeling unfit the previous week I decided to drop into the Ingleton wall for some circuits in the evening. A distinctly old school wall but serviceable for what I wanted. The circuit board was well set with sustained moves on finger jugs which was perfect. Spent a few hours going round in circles getting pumped which felt like a good session. Stopped before I ragged my skin.

T - decided to risk Malham after work despite reports of some seepage. Warmed up on Yosemite Direct which felt hard; the top bit of Against the Grain always spooks me. Went up Vogue to put the draws in and despite the tufa being sopping wet on the front, the pockets in the back were dry so as long as you didn't get too greedy on the holds it was ok. Redpoint go felt steady to the crux and just about made it through; as ever with these sequency routes it felt nails until the go I did it, at which point 7c+ felt more plausible. That said, its as hard as Baboo I think so is probably 8a.

W - Gigg North in the evening. Had wanted to try Divine Brown but it was soaking wet. Did a nice 7a on Ivy Buttress which was probably closer to 6c but a good long pitch.

T - rest.

F - rest.

S - house packing and FA cup watching. Driving out of Leicester after the final was great, lots of celebrations about. Wore out the horn on the van from joining in.

S - Malham; busy on the catwalk so went upstairs. Did a few good 7s and put the clips in L'Obsession. Good route but the sun simply wouldn't leave so speedily got the draws out and bailed downstairs, which was quieter by then. Had a few runs up Cry Freedom to try the crux and remember where the holds are;l went ok considering I was tired by then. Still haven't been along the traverse at the top where the link into Predator goes so will try and have a look at that soon. Watched Matt do Bats and Dogs which was ace.

Good week which mostly revolved around moving house; am now in Ramsbottom which seems a great location (although this being Lancashire, it is obviously raining). Excited to be properly back up north.

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#13 Re: Power Club 581 10-16 May 2021
May 17, 2021, 10:02:25 am

S - Garda Trentino Trail race - 63km 3700m. ... and I finished in 7h53m.

S - Went to Martinswand instead and tried an 8a+/b (Supergoof) that I had been curious about. The routes are absolutely desperate

As always I remain absolutely amazed by your ability to be smashing it running one day then be recovered enough to go back to hard sport climbing the next day! Sure even most fit folk would be due a day in the couch after that running

Likewise  :jaw:

I rarely get anything done the day after though! Surprised myself with some decent links this time, but was more to just have a play and keep my fingertips in good condition for ratty crimps!

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#14 Re: Power Club 581 10-16 May 2021
May 17, 2021, 10:07:47 am
STG: Another F7b
MTG: F7c
LTG: F8a

M: Routes @ AW - Tired... Nowt above F6b
T: 20 miles on the bike - nice to get out as it's been a while, got rained on!
W: Routes @ AW - Up to F6c
T: Trad @ Burbage with GF and Daughter - Soloed a bunch of severe's and VS's and brought both of them up a couple... Nice!
F: Routes @ AW - Up to 6B+
S: Nowt
S: Bouldering and auto belays @ AW as on me tod - Good session, flashed all the V3-V5's I tried. Got on a nice 7a+ but lobbed off the top on the OS, tried to work it but auto belays are a bit of a faff so had another punt then went and onsighted more stuff up to F6c... Been feeling like the new set at AW is vastly undergraded so good to do stuff that felt about right!

Mileage week it seems - was worried about the toe at the beginning of the week as the infection had returned. New antibiotics don't make me feel like shit and seem to have sorted it. Ace! Time to ramp it up again and find me a few projects to get me teeth into.

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#15 Re: Power Club 581 10-16 May 2021
May 17, 2021, 10:49:42 am

M - Max hangs, had got up to +31kg at the end of April so aimed for +30kg. This felt like the living end and I was failing after about 5 seconds. Ended up dropping all the way down to +25kg and this was still a struggle. OK I had been at LPT the day before but this was still a bit annoying. I knew I had been feeling a bit off the pace the past couple of weeks which I’d put down to the density hangs wrecking my forearms and this was definitely an eye opener.

Feel way down on strength from a few weeks ago which has shown through in fingerboard scores, and I’m not 100% sure why. Trying not to read too much into it and hope things balance out.

To elaborate on what Yetix said it is not so much that you have “wrecked” your forearms but that the density work has increased tendon elasticity / reduced tendon stiffness which will in turn reduce your max hang strength.

Whilst density hangs  potentially reduce your susceptibility to injury it personally doesn’t seem to be worthwhile as I’ve a long history of climbing and training and not much in the way of tendon issues.

I’ve summarised my understanding of all this here

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#16 Re: Power Club 581 10-16 May 2021
May 17, 2021, 10:53:21 am
M - Fingerboard: ‘max.’ hangs. Shoulders: IsYsTs on the rings, supported handstands. Walked 11km.
T - Deploying all my privileges, and knowing how to play the healthcare system, I managed to get a quick appointment with Moorgate Eye Hospital. After coming out as a health researcher, the senior registrar took me seriously and spent a long time explaining the diagnosis and all the options. I have a condition that makes it hard to spot small footholds. This may or may not get worse. It is potentially operable but the condition may have already caused irreparable damage. I don’t meet the threshold of impairment for the NHS to consider me for the operation. A bit depressing.
Stronghold: 90 problems to V2/3 in 90 minutes. Good session, battered after this.
W - Shoulders as above. Walked 11km.
T - Box Steps for 60 minutes: 400m up (and down). Steve House will not be losing any sleep. Walked 12km. Shoulders as above.
F - Portland with Bridbeast. Iffy forecast but the Portland microclimate came to our rescue. Warmed-up on Love in the Mist and Talk. Tried How Now Brown Cow a couple of times but really not feeling on it mentally. Grabbed a consolation with All Things Being Equal (neé Equinox). Either this was very impressive when it was E2 or I’ve completely gone to pot. Despite good company, sunny weather, and being outside by the sea, the whole day was a struggle.
S - Walked 9km
S - A mellow couple of hours at Stronghold with the lad. Managed a half dozen of the purple V3/4s and fell off some white V4/5s. He enjoyed himself which restored my spirits a bit.

Good to read you're enjoying LPT Simon. I’ve only been once and got completely spanked but, if the move happens, N Wales lime will be an easy day trip.

TTT, I’m in a similar place with house selling: twitchy buyer and nowhere to move to.

I’m physically good: aches and pains at a minimum, a bit lighter, and not completely weak indoors. The strength and conditioning seems to be working. Not yet transferring this to rock and struggling a bit mentally when climbing. It's early days in a funny year.

Enjoying the visits to Stronghold with the lad. The setting is great: he’s ~148cm and it is notable how many of the easier problems are not height dependent.

The much-anticipated return to trad. climbing next weekend seems to be coinciding with some piss-poor weather!

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#17 Re: Power Club 581 10-16 May 2021
May 17, 2021, 10:58:52 am
Thanks Shark, that could certainly be one explanation. "Wrecked" is certainly me being over-dramatic, it just seems like what was relatively little volume has resulted in an unusually high level of fatigue. It's an odd feeling, almost like my forearms are blocked, I really can't describe it. Interestingly I had a look back and I had the exact same sensation last time I tried them. Maybe I just don't get on with them, I'll certainly be avoiding them for now.

Has anyone else ever tried density hangs and ever felt any negative effects? I tried them out a few months back (about 6-8 weeks of once or twice a week) to try and settle down some minor niggles as a bit of an experiment. Those niggles did settle down, although whether the hangs had anything to do with that is anyone's guess. But for some sessions and part of the season I also often felt like my forearms felt almost 'blocked'. Bit of a hard feeling to describe really, almost like getting powered out pretty instantly. Again, this could just all be in my head but since I stopped doing them I've felt like I'm getting back to normal a bit.

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#18 Re: Power Club 581 10-16 May 2021
May 17, 2021, 11:42:52 am

TTT, I’m in a similar place with house selling: twitchy buyer and nowhere to move to.



Good luck with it - the rental market is if anything more crazy than the buying and selling side. I'll be glad once we've moved and the sale completes...just in time to embark on buying a place and going through it all again from the other side!

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#19 Re: Power Club 581 10-16 May 2021
May 17, 2021, 12:18:25 pm

Power Club
Mon - very short on time. TBDL 100 kg 5x7. TBDL high pulls.
Tue - rest.
Wed - circuit, two goes: start - 20/21 - top, 1' rest. Weights.
Thu - circuit one go. No skin. Boxing bag Tabata.
Fri - gentle weights.
Sat - upper back; loaded carries on stairs, new session: one arm shoulder carry on the wah up, Farmer's on the way down, as fast as possible, 1' blocks, 10' no rests.
Sun - snatch DL, snatch, bentover high pulls.

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#20 Re: Power Club 581 10-16 May 2021
May 18, 2021, 01:34:23 pm
T - Big Depot sesh.

Sa - Kilnsey. Stick clipped up The Ashes and played on the moves. Did them all but was dismayed by how hard the top felt. Went back up again and it felt way beyond me at the moment. Couldn't really get much of a satisfactory rest in the eyes. Sacked it off and bolt to bolted up Sticky Wicket which I haven't done before, falling after the right hand cross through move on the onsight go. Rested and had a go on redpoint but was too far gone and fell at the incut finger holds that you clip the last bolt from.


I've been informed that there is a hands off knee bar in the eyes on the Ashes. Any truth to this and any info on how it goes in?

It was quite dispiriting to feel quite so far away from the Ashes. Quite weak and unfit at the moment.

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#21 Re: Power Club 581 10-16 May 2021
May 18, 2021, 01:38:22 pm
I've been informed that there is a hands off knee bar in the eyes on the Ashes. Any truth to this and any info on how it goes in?

Yes, I've belayed a mate on it who chilled out there no-handed for a bit. I can't remember any specifics though, and he is quite good at knee bars.

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#22 Re: Power Club 581 10-16 May 2021
May 18, 2021, 01:59:31 pm
Its left knee, seem to remember it being fairly obvious. Its quite side on though, painful without a pad and very core intensive. I mostly used it kneebarring my own left hand as a  way to get a bit of weight off my arms, never put a pad on and properly milked it. I would stick with it, you'll get much fitter just by trying it. The jugs at the eyes are pretty big so you'll be able to recover there in time.
« Last Edit: May 18, 2021, 02:05:25 pm by spidermonkey09 »

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#23 Re: Power Club 581 10-16 May 2021
May 18, 2021, 03:42:43 pm
The jugs at the eyes are pretty big so you'll be able to recover there in time.

I didn’t try a knee, but at the time I was reasonably trad fit and could rest quite well at the eyes on the jugs. The guy I was trying it with wasn’t quite so fit and used to spend just long enough there for his breathing to slow before sprinting onwards!

Bizarrely I found the clip at the end of the crux (off the boss/before the ear? It’s long enough ago I forget what all the holds are called!) really hard and that was my redpoint crux - I only ever clipped it once from the ground! I got far enough into my struggles with it that I started to consider clipping the mid crux one (on the wall above the eyes that I think is commonly skipped) and gunning it to the top from there.

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#24 Re: Power Club 581 10-16 May 2021
May 18, 2021, 04:12:24 pm

Bizarrely I found the clip at the end of the crux really hard and that was my redpoint crux - I only ever clipped it once from the ground! I got far enough into my struggles with it that I started to consider clipping the mid crux one (on the wall above the eyes that I think is commonly skipped) and gunning it to the top from there.

I clipped the mid crux one off the big left hand sidepull but didn't clip off the boss; if you do the moves into the slot you can reach back down and clip it from there. Its nails clipping it off the boss!

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#25 Re: Power Club 581 10-16 May 2021
May 18, 2021, 04:17:23 pm
The jugs at the eyes are pretty big so you'll be able to recover there in time.

I didn’t try a knee, but at the time I was reasonably trad fit and could rest quite well at the eyes on the jugs. The guy I was trying it with wasn’t quite so fit and used to spend just long enough there for his breathing to slow before sprinting onwards!

Bizarrely I found the clip at the end of the crux (off the boss/before the ear? It’s long enough ago I forget what all the holds are called!) really hard and that was my redpoint crux - I only ever clipped it once from the ground! I got far enough into my struggles with it that I started to consider clipping the mid crux one (on the wall above the eyes that I think is commonly skipped) and gunning it to the top from there.

No knee for me a decade ago, eyes are big and you can move around to get some decent recovery.  I skipped the next clip and then extended the one off the boss so could clip pretty much by the waist rather than having to pull rope up and clip in front of me, seemed to make a suprising amount of difference.

It's a great route and certainly worth sticking with, I found the steep physicality made it feel really hard for me initially until I got more accustomed to it.

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#26 Re: Power Club 581 10-16 May 2021
May 18, 2021, 04:17:56 pm
bolt to bolted up Sticky Wicket... falling on the onsight go.

Nice try  :no:

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#27 Re: Power Club 581 10-16 May 2021
May 18, 2021, 05:28:58 pm
I clipped the mid crux one off the big left hand sidepull but didn't clip off the boss; if you do the moves into the slot you can reach back down and clip it from there. Its nails clipping it off the boss!

Yeah even as per Ian's point with about 4 draws chained on it I still found it desperate. I think I was on my "one last go" trying to do it from the boss before either going past it to clip or clipping the mid crux one (which I think I'd have done off a right hand, perhaps) and not bothering...

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#28 Re: Power Club 581 10-16 May 2021
May 18, 2021, 05:31:25 pm
The jugs at the eyes are pretty big so you'll be able to recover there in time.

When are you fucking people going to understand just how shit and unfit I am? Obvs the holds are big but they're thin and uncomfortable. I was struggling to drop a knee far enough to kill the steepness and rest properly. Maybe a better rest for those with less leg? If there's a kneebar that helps I'd use it.

We both thought the clipping would work exactly as Jim said.

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#29 Re: Power Club 581 10-16 May 2021
May 18, 2021, 06:08:18 pm
The top of the ashes is significantly easier for the tall so I am expecting a mighty downgrade Will.

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#30 Re: Power Club 581 10-16 May 2021
May 18, 2021, 06:50:05 pm
The jugs at the eyes are pretty big so you'll be able to recover there in time.

When are you fucking people going to understand just how shit and unfit I am? Obvs the holds are big but they're thin and uncomfortable. I was struggling to drop a knee far enough to kill the steepness and rest properly. Maybe a better rest for those with less leg? If there's a kneebar that helps I'd use it.

We both thought the clipping would work exactly as Jim said.

I could just about fit in the knee bar (right knee in left eye, I think) but it was very painful and not hands off - my knee crushed my right hand.  I personally found it more trouble that it was worth, and preferred to use low smears and shake out normally. 

Be glad that it's slightly easier than it used to be. The first left-hand hold after the RH glued crimp used to be a crap pinch that you had to hastily go-again from.  Then a trapped block fell out of it to leave the present good side-pull, which you can clip from more easily.  The clip there was most often skipped (mainly used for dogging the route), which made the prospect of clipping / skipping at the boss a bit more exciting.

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#31 Re: Power Club 581 10-16 May 2021
May 18, 2021, 10:25:17 pm
The top of the ashes is significantly easier for the tall so I am expecting a mighty downgrade Will.
I heard it's 7b+ for people as tall as Will. Possibly 7b if you're a 7C+ Grit boulderer.
It felt middle 7c+ for a short weak sport punter.

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#32 Re: Power Club 581 10-16 May 2021
May 19, 2021, 09:09:31 pm
M - pm UCR, doubles on 7a's. Felt ok. Then nights.
T - sleep, nights.
W - sleep, pm TCA for 40 min before work, bit pointless really. Nights.
T - sleep, nights.
F - sleep, sleep
S - daughters bday stuff, drank too much in eve
S - hungover, stayed in bed all day.

71kg

Bit of a lost week really.

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#33 Re: Power Club 581 10-16 May 2021
May 19, 2021, 10:07:30 pm
Just to clarify here. You get an upgrade if you clip the bolts and a downgrade if you are tall???

I'm leaving hand jam kneebars out of it as that has been covered in great depth elsewhere.

Will - you are going to have to have about 4 slash grades in your book just to cover all the permutations...

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#34 Re: Power Club 581 10-16 May 2021
May 20, 2021, 05:50:13 pm
Just to clarify here. You get an upgrade if you clip the bolts and a downgrade if you are tall???

Will - you are going to have to have about 4 slash grades in your book just to cover all the permutations...
Point 1 : Yes
Point 2: there are only 2 grades. The actual grade and the Hunt® grade. They are not necessarily the same but do accurately represent the grades a route/problem may be given  ;D

 

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