[Fiend]

Down in Sidmouth for a week and hoping to, well, escape Sidmouth as much as possible to climb. I'm especially keen to head over to Cornwall / Devon to climb, especially Baggy Point, and some killas/greenstone/Lizard area, but also granite too (depending on tides and faff as always). BUT failing that would be up for sport or even bouldering as long as it's not on baking hot crystalline granite in the sun. Leading E2-ish, F6c OS / F7b RP, bloc 6C, DWS F4+ assuming previous levels of terror. Know the area pretty well and can supply gabber as needed.

[Andy F]

Downgrader of 7B's in 6C bloc claim.
See also lead 7b but can only climb E2 lie 

[webbo]

Downgrader of 7B's in 6C bloc claim.
See also lead 7b but can only climb E2 lie 

Is there not an 8A and an E5/6 somewhere in Fiends checkered history.

[Andy F]

There deffo an 8a sport route to go with the crumbling choss. He's underestimating himself (which is, admittedly, really easy to do).

[TobyD]

Down in Sidmouth for a week and hoping to, well, escape Sidmouth as much as possible to climb. I'm especially keen to head over to Cornwall / Devon to climb, especially Baggy Point, and some killas/greenstone/Lizard area, but also granite too (depending on tides and faff as always). BUT failing that would be up for sport or even bouldering as long as it's not on baking hot crystalline granite in the sun. Leading E2-ish, F6c OS / F7b RP, bloc 6C, DWS F4+ assuming previous levels of terror. Know the area pretty well and can supply gabber as needed.

Hi Fiend, I'm often down there,  I'll be in touch at the time if this is so. I'd hazard that I know the area even better 

Hope you're doing well

[Fiend]

Cool Toby, yes keep in touch. Is hazard unbanned yet?

Andy and Webbo oh the hilarity, my track record recently is:

Failed on:

F6c
F6c+ x 3
F7a x 4
E1 5c crack
E2 6a crack x 2
E3 6a peg-protected slab

(All in good conditions with good skin when well warmed up). So my climbing (apart from over-graded esoteric quarried grit) is pretty toss hence an accurate estimation. But still I'm trying to get back to a level I'm happier with, and maybe there will be some nice supportive people down there to have some fun days with and be part of that.

[Ged]

Hi fiend, I dont know if you've been here, but of you want some really good 7a action with a bit of an adventurous twist, try here...

https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/the_nudey_cliff-25322

Other similar crags abound if you like it

[Fiend]

Cheers, WoodFT and duncan both separately recommended me that and Potato Cliff!! Yes does look like my sort of nonsense...

[Ged]

All the 7a's/7a+ on the main wall at Nudey are great fun.  Potato head is limited at 7a, great at 7c up.

This should also not be missed... https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/lotg-26579

[tomrainbow]

I had a go at summarising developments here (in a very rambling manner) but these are already out of date...

https://tomrainbow99.wordpress.com/2020/12/04/clipping-bolts-on-torquays-conglom-coast/

[duncan]

Tom, these look amazing. Thanks for all the work in exploring and equipping them.  I'll be in touch.

[tomrainbow]

Ha, thanks Duncan. Do get in touch next time you're down. I'd love to say that I was driven by purely altruistic motives but I love doing it! Just so lucky to have had the opportunity, future generations will have to go to other planets to have this chance!

Yesterday we did a new 7b at Nudey Cliff:

https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/the_nudey_cliff-25322/horse_pieces-626469 

Please excuse the somewhat hyperbolic description. Needless to say it's a bit 'different', as is its little brother: https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/the_nudey_cliff-25322/long_dong_johnson-625027

...and Ged completed his new 8a+ at PH last week so lots going on still
https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/potato_head-24935/gnocchi_on_devons_door-623954!

[Fiend]

I had a go at summarising developments here (in a very rambling manner) but these are already out of date...

https://tomrainbow99.wordpress.com/2020/12/04/clipping-bolts-on-torquays-conglom-coast/

Saved that for future reference. You up for a guided tour or know anyone around that week??

[tomrainbow]

I'm sure we can arrange something...

[GazM]

'Do ya think I'm 6c' is an absolutely superb name. 

[Wood FT]

+1 Thanks to Tom for his potato farming antics.

[Wood FT]

You hadn't done this when I last went. Very keen! Maris Piper 8a

[Ged]

+1 Thanks to Tom for his potato farming antics.

That implies that the potatoes occasionally part company with their field. Which is of course nonsense.

[macca7]

+1 Thanks to Tom for his potato farming antics.

That implies that the potatoes occasionally part company with their field. Which is of course nonsense.

Which part "occasionally"?

[tomrainbow]

Come on mate - I think you have stress tested most of the spuds by now! 

[macca7]

I certainly have and they definitely get stress tested!

However even the holds in the photo above are out of date!!!

[tomrainbow]

Oh yes, I forgot you pulled the tufa off last time you were there.

[Ged]

You mean the tufa has got even bigger?!

[Fiend]

BUMP.

I have a tentative and yet to be specified day pencilled in with Duncan on the sport choss and that's it so far.

Still looking for people to climb with that week, especially Torquay area trad e.g. some South Hams exploration, Meadfoot, Daddyhole, maybe Durl Head and Long Quarry Point.

Also if anyone knows Pete Saunders can you please PM me his contact details (I do know him already, hence the description for Loftgroover at BQH and the grade considerations at Meadfoot).

[DAVETHOMAS90]

Interesting, Fiend!

Sent you PS' number. Have another if it's changed. Please say hi 

I'll look at what I'm doing..

[Fiend]

Well. Am still free tomorrow morning if anyone is around (hopefully got a partner for the afternoon). A quick hit somewhere in the 'bay would be fine.

DT, cheers for PS's number. I had a quick text exchange with him, apparently he didn't have any likely contacts for the area 

[Ged]

Sorry I can't help, working tomorrow and have parents down for the weekend.  Hope you find someone.

[Oldmanmatt]

I’m afraid I’m in Exmouth tomorrow. It’s anniversary day and we generally do a “thing” and visit the grave etc. (Jesus! 9 years tomorrow. Weird).
If it turns out that the weather is, for some reason, way worse than forecast and you want to get on a wall, drop me a pm and I’ll sort you out.

Actually, should add…

I was down on Redgate beach an hour ago and it couldn’t be more magical and peaceful. There’s some great bouldering down there and the DWS out along to Long Quarry is blissful. I can also say, there were hardly any jellyfish around today and the visibility was excellent.

[tomrainbow]

Afraid I'm heading to Barry (of all places) tomorrow to sort out my father-in-law's curtain rails. It's a rock'n'roll lifestyle!

Have fun.

[Motown]

High tide about 9am tomorrow in the bay so premium for DWS

[Fiend]

Well thanks for the replies all, it is appreciated. Dawn chorus DWS hmmmmm maybe!

[Wood FT]

Well thanks for the replies all, it is appreciated. Dawn chorus DWS hmmmmm maybe!

That would be brilliant. London Bridge in the morning sun. Bliss.

[shark]

Well thanks for the replies all, it is appreciated. Dawn chorus DWS hmmmmm maybe!

Sidmouth Sea Walls for you

[Oldmanmatt]

Well thanks for the replies all, it is appreciated. Dawn chorus DWS hmmmmm maybe!

That would be brilliant. London Bridge in the morning sun. Bliss.

Oh yeah.
And jump Big Mac, to cool off after.