[remus]

UKBs resident knee barring lankster has finished off his Kilnsey proj.

https://www.instagram.com/p/COnZ92XjA0p/

[Andy F]

Kranko comes to Kilnsey is a better name 

[Fiend]

Not bad some some lump of lank moaning about his fucked fingers and about to take up snooker or sewing or something!! 

[Doylo]

What a fuckin cry baby fraud.  Starting threads about career ending injuries then climbs 9a. I can’t climb 7a , 7 months on you cunt.

ps Nice1

[Duma]

Looks ace! Nice one Barrows

[mr chaz]

 climbs 9a purely to troll UKB 

[Yossarian]

This has totally ruined the plot of the (admittedly unfinished) Güllich Legacy, in which the heroic Level 9 Lattice operatives were due to be dispatched to track down and destroy the work of the renegade perma-on-holiday Gresh and Emmett. Not collaborate on routes and bring their Level 9 status into question with slash grades...

[tomtom]

Slash grade was a master stroke Alex 👍👍

[Stu Littlefair]

As I said to Alex at the foundry yesterday, whilst he was complaining his finger wouldn’t let him climb anything, slash grades are for cowards.

[Wood FT]

As I said to Alex at the foundry yesterday, whilst he was complaining his finger wouldn’t let him climb anything, slash grades are for cowards.

Agreed. He's got splinters in the arse.

[abarro81]

8c++ it is then 

[Andy F]

Shouldn't that be 8c+/+   

[Dexter]

How about 9a-?

[tomtom]

V3 😁

[Fiend]

Benchmark F8d ofc

[SA Chris]

What a fuckin cry baby fraud.  Starting threads about career ending injuries then climbs 9a. I can’t climb 7a , 7 months on you cunt.

Aye, all that tea and sympathy clearly a waste of our fucking time.

Nice one Barrowsboy.

[Nike Air]

Good stuff Alex.

What made you able to do this with a bad finger injury?

[SA Chris]

Undeserved good karmic energy sent by the UKB collective.

Not making that mistake again. Will revert to slagging off.

[abarro81]

What made you able to do this with a bad finger injury?

No small holds for the RH! I think I crimp once on the RH on the whole thing, and that's only an intermediate on Epic..

The finger is weird - e.g. in Franken last autumn (before the steroid injections) I found a bunch of 8cs I could climb, but also had to bail on lots of easier things after one go up fondling holds because I'd find something dangerous. The finger has actually quite liked trying this thing for the past month - I think long routes are good because you don't do any single move too many times (it seems to really object to repetition, which makes indoors and training both challenging) and I was just doing short sessions when not on the route. Got pretty lucky really, can't imagine there are many other hard routes/projects I could try in the UK right now. Couple of others in that roof but nothing at Malham or in the Peak or even in most other roofs (back when I had a play on a damp Aladdin/KoT a couple of years ago that first rh hold in the crux was tweaky on the finger even when it was in quite good shape, now it would be very much a no-go). Pity I don't live in Rodellar really! I wondered about Dark Energy but on the vid of Robins it looks like he crimps his RH quite a few times - were you the same?

Did some pretty novel train-around-the-finger over the winter, e.g. I couldn't do aero cap/ARC on the fingerboard (even using jugs) because the volume aggravated the joint so I would spend 1hr+ cycling round a powerball, juggling (surprising amount of forearm bloodflow!), wrist-curls of dumbells with no weights, 1kg bicep curls/flys/press and bouts on a Compex. Probably not as good for the finger as just resting but did let me keep some base fitness work going. I recently tried to convince a GB team member that juggling was the way forward for ARCing but they looked a little sceptical 

Plus yeah, the positive UKB vibes and realization that road cycling was my next best option probably spurred me on to override the finger 

[Fultonius]

What made you able to do this with a bad finger injury?

The finger is weird - e.g. in Franken last autumn (before the steroid injections) I found a bunch of 8cs I could climb, but also had to bail on lots of easier things after one go up fondling holds because I'd find something dangerous. The finger has actually quite liked trying this thing for the past month - I think long routes are good because you don't do any single move too many times (it seems to really object to repetition, which makes indoors and training both challenging) and I was just doing short sessions when not on the route. Got pretty lucky really, can't imagine there are many other hard routes/projects I could try in the UK right now. Couple of others in that roof but nothing at Malham or in the Peak or even in most other roofs (back when I had a play on a damp Aladdin/KoT a couple of years ago that first rh hold in the crux was tweaky on the finger even when it was in quite good shape, now it would be very much a no-go). Pity I don't live in Rodellar really! I wondered about Dark Energy but on the vid of Robins it looks like he crimps his RH quite a few times - were you the same?

Did some pretty novel train-around-the-finger over the winter, e.g. I couldn't do aero cap/ARC on the fingerboard (even using jugs) because the volume aggravated the joint so I would spend 1hr+ cycling round a powerball, juggling (surprising amount of forearm bloodflow!), wrist-curls of dumbells with no weights, 1kg bicep curls/flys/press and bouts on a Compex. Probably not as good for the finger as just resting but did let me keep some base fitness work going. I recently tried to convince a GB team member that juggling was the way forward for ARCing but they looked a little sceptical 

Plus yeah, the positive UKB vibes and realization that road cycling was my next best option probably spurred me on to override the finger 

Have you actually tried controlled progressive loading of the bad finger? I don't see any current thinking saying resting ever improves long term injuries. Maybe your last month has just been giving it the right amount of loading to start getting it strong again?

[Paul B]

Did some pretty novel train-around-the-finger over the winter, e.g. I couldn't do aero cap/ARC on the fingerboard (even using jugs) because the volume aggravated the joint so I would spend 1hr+ cycling round a powerball, juggling (surprising amount of forearm bloodflow!), wrist-curls of dumbells with no weights, 1kg bicep curls/flys/press and bouts on a Compex. Probably not as good for the finger as just resting but did let me keep some base fitness work going. I recently tried to convince a GB team member that juggling was the way forward for ARCing but they looked a little sceptical 

I'd give you 9a just for the commitment.

[abarro81]

[Have you actually tried controlled progressive loading of the bad finger? I don't see any current thinking saying resting ever improves long term injuries. Maybe your last month has just been giving it the right amount of loading to start getting it strong again?

I spent Jan/Feb/Mar doing that and made very little progress. There was a fairly major complication there though - I had ~2 months during that period with fluctuating flare-ups of swelling in the adjacent (uninjured) index finger. This seemed to have a knock-on effect of causing major swelling in the injury (presumably because it's sensitised to any inflammatory chemicals?) and a really strong 24hr cycles of swelling irrespective of what I'd done on it in terms of loading/resting. They ran a bunch of tests but couldn't work out the cause - looks a bit like a skin infection but isn't that, looks a bit like rheumatoid arthritis but not quite and markers came back negative, looks a bit like gout but marker came back negative... still undiagnosed at the moment but has gone away for now. I've had it a few times 2014-2018 but those times only for a 1-2 week bout then gone away again for 6-24 months (and I was less injured back then so it didn't seem to drive swelling in that knuckle in the same way). Only ever happens in winter too.

I'm going to go into a "performless" phase this summer to see if I can make progress on it if I put aside any real focus on training or sending for a good block of time (both of which encourage me to push it a bit too hard). The flare-up in the index has resolved (for this bout at least) so hopefully this will give me the opportunity to make progress. I think I would have made good progress in Jan/Feb/Mar apart from that - I felt like I was getting somewhere the first 3-4 weeks until that swelling came on in mid/late Jan and sent the injury totally nuts for the next 2 months. The big challenge isn't getting the knuckle under control (I know this is possible by sticking within my comfort zone), but then managing to expand the comfort zone without it responding badly. Had an interesting chat with Stu about this recently as he's had an issue with some similar behaviour - where there seems to be an unusually fine line to tread even if the principle is the same as normal. Dropping some money on a private MRI to rule out anything untoward having been missed in the joint as well..

[SA Chris]

I'd give you 9a just for the commitment.

This made me google what a Compex is, this was the first thing that came up.

https://www.compex.com/uk/compex-ayre

Had visions of Barrows walking up to the Cove in a pair of these looking like Wallace in The Wrong Trousers.

[Stu Littlefair]

Sadly not, he's just been sat on the sofa, electrocuting himself whilst watching Downton Abbey

[Paul B]

Sadly not, he's just been sat on the sofa, electrocuting himself whilst watching Downton Abbey

Did he at least have a Bruno style restraint system?