[Fultonius]

[Have you actually tried controlled progressive loading of the bad finger? I don't see any current thinking saying resting ever improves long term injuries. Maybe your last month has just been giving it the right amount of loading to start getting it strong again?

I spent Jan/Feb/Mar doing that and made very little progress. There was a fairly major complication there though - I had ~2 months during that period with fluctuating flare-ups of swelling in the adjacent (uninjured) index finger. This seemed to have a knock-on effect of causing major swelling in the injury (presumably because it's sensitised to any inflammatory chemicals?) and a really strong 24hr cycles of swelling irrespective of what I'd done on it in terms of loading/resting. They ran a bunch of tests but couldn't work out the cause - looks a bit like a skin infection but isn't that, looks a bit like rheumatoid arthritis but not quite and markers came back negative, looks a bit like gout but marker came back negative... still undiagnosed at the moment but has gone away for now. I've had it a few times 2014-2018 but those times only for a 1-2 week bout then gone away again for 6-24 months (and I was less injured back then so it didn't seem to drive swelling in that knuckle in the same way). Only ever happens in winter too.

I'm going to go into a "performless" phase this summer to see if I can make progress on it if I put aside any real focus on training or sending for a good block of time (both of which encourage me to push it a bit too hard). The flare-up in the index has resolved (for this bout at least) so hopefully this will give me the opportunity to make progress. I think I would have made good progress in Jan/Feb/Mar apart from that - I felt like I was getting somewhere the first 3-4 weeks until that swelling came on in mid/late Jan and sent the injury totally nuts for the next 2 months. The big challenge isn't getting the knuckle under control (I know this is possible by sticking within my comfort zone), but then managing to expand the comfort zone without it responding badly. Had an interesting chat with Stu about this recently as he's had an issue with some similar behaviour - where there seems to be an unusually fine line to tread even if the principle is the same as normal. Dropping some money on a private MRI to rule out anything untoward having been missed in the joint as well..

Gotcha. Complicated!

Dad had RA for 20 years, resorted to self medicating with Hyperbaric Oxygen. Always kept any flare ups at bay. Worth considering during next flare up? Synovial fluid has very poor vascularisation, and HBOT (in theory)  helps due to the diffusion of oxygen in the plasma. The theory is that it blocks the hypoxia induced factors that cause the flare ups. Or something like that.

Or it could just be an expensive (actually, not a that expensive if you can find a local MS therapy centre...) but very low risk placebo.

[Nike Air]

Glad that was the case for you Alex, must be frustrating but to find something that you can enjoy is brilliant.

Dark energy.. I can't recall any small holds that need crimping. Maybe at the very end there is a right hand side pull that requires pulling on a bit to allow you to throw your feet around. 3:20



Im currently nursing an A4 pulley from liquid ambar and its a annoying to have to take a. step back, second guess possible route choices that are sensible.

But I've only had 15 days of this... Not really comparable I say

[abarro81]

Sorry to hear about the finger Jordan, will keep my fingers crossed it heals up quick. Try to remember to take it easy now so that it heals quicker overall (so easy to say, so hard to do!)

Sounds like Dark Energy might be worth a look at least to see if it's ok on the knuckle, thanks

[Nike Air]

Wise advice, it's never a good time but especially pap when a good run of form, leading to particular goals gets punctuated by injury.

There's always the mountain bike I guess....

Dark energy might be wet where it tops out but you can get a flavor for the meat of it whilst that starts drying out, but don't go on humid or particularly hot days as it will probably be a smeg fest and you will be sad.
I did once ab off from the road up top with a spade to dig out a bit of the hillside above the route to encourage drying. It worked bbeautifully for a time but its possible it may need doing again.
Plenty of routes for Ella too and it's just a stunning place to hang out with a book, a fishing rod and or to have a swim.

Just check the seals have left before you go or they will bite you.

[Alex-the-Alex]

I spent Jan/Feb/Mar doing that and made very little progress. There was a fairly major complication there though - I had ~2 months during that period with fluctuating flare-ups of swelling in the adjacent (uninjured) index finger. This seemed to have a knock-on effect of causing major swelling in the injury (presumably because it's sensitised to any inflammatory chemicals?) and a really strong 24hr cycles of swelling irrespective of what I'd done on it in terms of loading/resting. They ran a bunch of tests but couldn't work out the cause - looks a bit like a skin infection but isn't that, looks a bit like rheumatoid arthritis but not quite and markers came back negative, looks a bit like gout but marker came back negative... still undiagnosed at the moment but has gone away for now. I've had it a few times 2014-2018 but those times only for a 1-2 week bout then gone away again for 6-24 months (and I was less injured back then so it didn't seem to drive swelling in that knuckle in the same way). Only ever happens in winter too.

I'm going to go into a "performless" phase this summer to see if I can make progress on it if I put aside any real focus on training or sending for a good block of time (both of which encourage me to push it a bit too hard). The flare-up in the index has resolved (for this bout at least) so hopefully this will give me the opportunity to make progress. I think I would have made good progress in Jan/Feb/Mar apart from that - I felt like I was getting somewhere the first 3-4 weeks until that swelling came on in mid/late Jan and sent the injury totally nuts for the next 2 months. The big challenge isn't getting the knuckle under control (I know this is possible by sticking within my comfort zone), but then managing to expand the comfort zone without it responding badly. Had an interesting chat with Stu about this recently as he's had an issue with some similar behaviour - where there seems to be an unusually fine line to tread even if the principle is the same as normal. Dropping some money on a private MRI to rule out anything untoward having been missed in the joint as well..

Hi Alex, this is probably daft, but have you considered whether it could be strange form of chilblains? Maybe complicated by a history of hard climbing and regular loading? Ive had a similar problem affect me the last two winters. Sore inflamed sausage fingers, often after bouldering, that would last a few weeks at a time. It would start in a knuckle and spread to initially unnafected fingers and the tendons between knuckles. It would go from sore to red, heated, itchy and painful, and most recenty this winter, to almost blister like sores. I got tested for rheumatoid signals and got nothing. The gp remains uncertain and reffered me to a consultant. Typically its now warmed up and im climbing fine again with no effects to show the consultant. Im starting to think the cold, both from climbing and spending hours immobile in a near baltic home office, have been the main triggers. Funnily enough mum had similar effects every winter when she lived in a freezing old farmhouse in France.

I find it really hard to warm my hands up when climbing in the cold. In the past that doesnt seem to have been a problem and id happily crank on numb fingers. But now i seem to be much more sensistive and even easier sessions on cold fingers seem to set off the swelling. Not sure what the solution is other than massive mits/hot water bottle/winter migration.

Anyway, probably a load of anecdotal rubbish and totally unrelated, but thought Id share.

Nice one on the route.

[SA Chris]

AtA that sounds like some form of Reynauld's?

My partner gets it, to the point where she never leaves the house to go for a run without gloves in a pocket on all but the warmest days. I believe there are hereditary links.

[Alex-the-Alex]

AtA that sounds like some form of Reynauld's?

My partner gets it, to the point where she never leaves the house to go for a run without gloves in a pocket on all but the warmest days. I believe there are hereditary links.

Cheers Chris, possibly, but without the severe colour change/loss. Secondary raynauds appears to be caused by underlying factors, and i did wonder if finger injuries/loading could amount to that. The GP didnt think so though.

I definetely inherited mums piss-poor circulation and low blood pressure.

[abarro81]

Sore inflamed sausage fingers, often after bouldering, that would last a few weeks at a time. It would start in a knuckle and spread to initially unnafected fingers and the tendons between knuckles. It would go from sore to red, heated, itchy and painful, and most recenty this winter, to almost blister like sores. I got tested for rheumatoid signals and got nothing. The gp remains uncertain and reffered me to a consultant. Typically its now warmed up and im climbing fine again with no effects to show the consultant.

Interesting - the bold parts describes my symptoms pretty well. I also had a referral a few years back to rheumatology but like you the symptoms had gone by the time I got the appointment. Similarly I also don't get the major colour change/loss that people with Reynaud's often seem to have. I can get v cold hands without having a flareup, and get flare-up when it's not that grimly cold, but it does only ever seem to be winter so maybe it's cumulative cold over multiple weeks/months?

If you discover anything or find any magic to stop it coming back I'd be keen to know! Likewise will try to remember to message you on here if I find anything that might be useful..

[Alex-the-Alex]

. I also had a referral a few years back to rheumatology but like you the symptoms had gone by the time I got the appointment. Similarly I also don't get the major colour change/loss that people with Reynaud's often seem to have. I can get v cold hands without having a flareup, and get flare-up when it's not that grimly cold, but it does only ever seem to be winter so maybe it's cumulative cold over multiple weeks/months?

If you discover anything or find any magic to stop it coming back I'd be keen to know! Likewise will try to remember to message you on here if I find anything that might be useful..

The bloods were taken during the last bout of swelling and still showed no rheumatoid signals. Ive taken photos and notes of dates whenever it's happened this winter which has helped with the gp/consultant. Similarly I've found it's not every time they get cold, but enough to make me think it's related.

Will do.

[DAVETHOMAS90]

Replying to A the A, so, sorry to A B, if this is heading in the wrong direction.

What you describe, I'm really familiar with, and yes, have those symptoms - apart from the "climbing fine again" bit - typically when it's been really cold, not putting heating on in the house, and clearing condensation/ice from windows!

[Alex-the-Alex]

What you describe, I'm really familiar with, and yes, have those symptoms - apart from the "climbing fine again" bit - typically when it's been really cold, not putting heating on in the house, and clearing condensation/ice from windows!

Climbing fine but no fine climbing. Sorry to hear it though.. it's pretty debilitating when the sausage fingers strike...