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Skye 9th - 15th - anything (Read 1953 times)

csl

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Skye 9th - 15th - anything
May 05, 2021, 01:41:48 pm
Not expecting many replies to this one (especially when viewing next weeks forecast  :'( )

I'm staying up near Neist Point on Skye from 9th-15th May and will have bouldering pads, trad. gear etc with me.

If anyone is around and fancies getting out then send me a PM.

 

dunnyg

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#1 Re: Skye 9th - 15th - anything
May 05, 2021, 01:54:18 pm
Im there from the 17th. So close...
Any bouldering/punter trad beta appreciated though! Hopefully it gets a bit drier for you.

csl

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#2 Re: Skye 9th - 15th - anything
May 05, 2021, 02:00:00 pm
Ah fuck, nearly! My dreams of a mint day on the ridge are seeming a bit unlikely now, will post up any beta for good bouldering that I discover though

Fiend

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#3 Re: Skye 9th - 15th - anything
May 05, 2021, 02:06:50 pm

this is all the beta you need  :P

Good luck with the weather chaps.
« Last Edit: May 05, 2021, 02:13:09 pm by Fiend »

sherlock

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#4 Re: Skye 9th - 15th - anything
May 05, 2021, 03:34:55 pm
Ha, my hands blew up the size of raw, pink boxing gloves after that. Good effort.
Must be unique at its grade in the UK, should be a queue every weekend!
Have PM'd you.

Fiend

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#5 Re: Skye 9th - 15th - anything
May 05, 2021, 04:11:37 pm
Best line in Scotland. Brown and Whillans would have bloody loved it. 8B for anyone who can't do HVS jamming.
PMed you back.

sherlock

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#6 Re: Skye 9th - 15th - anything
May 05, 2021, 04:25:53 pm
 Thanks, Fiend

Fultonius

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#7 Re: Skye 9th - 15th - anything
May 05, 2021, 04:54:08 pm

this is all the beta you need  :P

Good luck with the weather chaps.

|Gonna start calling you WIll soon with downgrades like that!  Though shalt not use knees then downgrade.  :chair: :chair:
 
That routes literally taught me to jam! Before, I had no idea, after...some. Certainly more idea than skin  :o

sherlock

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#8 Re: Skye 9th - 15th - anything
May 05, 2021, 04:59:02 pm
That's for sure.
More pain tolerance than technical ability..
And sorry Alistair, that sounded as though I was insulting your jamming! I wasn't. :sorry:
« Last Edit: May 05, 2021, 05:12:29 pm by sherlock »

Fultonius

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#9 Re: Skye 9th - 15th - anything
May 05, 2021, 05:32:32 pm
That's for sure.
More pain tolerance than technical ability..
And sorry Alistair, that sounded as though I was insulting your jamming! I wasn't. :sorry:

Ha - I didn't read it like that at all.  Must be 15 years since I was up there - I never actually got a complete ascent - I was depositing too much raw flesh in the crack for anyone's good...


Fiend

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#10 Re: Skye 9th - 15th - anything
May 05, 2021, 10:03:36 pm
This one might have been a bit tongue-in-cheek.... (and I've already been called "a complete Hunt" by andy popp). Ramshaw V3 tho.

Fultonious, LOL, I like that learning process.... Phil Jack learnt to jam accompanying me on the magnificent Whispering Crack at Rubha Huinish (sp). At the start of the 45m main pitch he didn't know how to jam, by the finish of it he did  ;D Incidentally I learnt to jam on STP VS 4c at Yarncliffe Quarry, maybe a better introduction...

 :off: vaguely, sorry I don't have more useful beta for iffy weather bouldering options on Skye although generally stuff in the lee of the mountains makes sense, or the coastal fringes. Pretty sure the Cuillin stuff will dry really quick too.

Johnny Brown

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#11 Re: Skye 9th - 15th - anything
May 06, 2021, 09:41:09 am
Lucky you, make sure you do Supercharger if you get the chance. It seems to have picked up a dodgy reputation which is not at all deserved - it is a stone cold classic, one of it's best in the grade in these islands.

SA Chris

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#12 Re: Skye 9th - 15th - anything
May 06, 2021, 11:59:03 am
When the main Cuillins are clagged in, Elgol can be tropical. Some great routes to do down there, and some fun rocks to play on on the beach, chill and take photos pf the classic Cuillin view. Be prepared for a long and slow drive through stunning scenery and don't go too late, the car park does fill out. The Ferry to Loch Coriusk is good to do too, if you don't mind joining the daytrippers on a tourist trip (subject to COVD regs).

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#13 Re: Skye 9th - 15th - anything
May 06, 2021, 12:30:21 pm
Another good option is a day trip to Raasay, which (so far) is unmobbed by instagrammers unlike Neist, Elgol and the Fairy Pools. Drive up to the north and walk to the amazing Screapadal boulder field - pockety sandstone on the beach - and boggle at the incredible undeveloped Czech-style crag towering above.

Will Hunt

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#14 Re: Skye 9th - 15th - anything
May 06, 2021, 12:33:46 pm
Obvs if the opportunity was to present itself then a full traverse is essential.

However, if you end up on your own and either don't want to commit to doing a full traverse solo or you don't fancy such a big day out then I would recommend a round of Coire Lagan. Gain the top of Sgurr Sgumain (not sure exactly what the easiest/best way to do this would be. You might need to check a walking/scrambling guide), or miss out Sgumain and just go up the Great Stone Chute between Alasdair and Thearlaich. Pop to the top of Alasdair and Thearlaich, then head round to the In Pinn. You'll get to choose whether to climb the King's Chimney (looks harder than it is from below. You climb the right-hand wall on jugs) or nip round Collie's Ledge. Then the ascent of An Stac (the very best bit of the whole ridge traverse. Flowing scrambling up stepped basalt dykes), then the In Pinn which is absolutely fine to solo. If it's a nice day you can probably jump on someone's rope to ab off, or just take your own, or down-climb (might be tricky if there's people coming up behind you - Ewan and Ralph took rock shoes and no rope and down-climbed all the bits that are traditionally abseiled). Back down to Glenbrittle for tea and medals.

Not a massive day out but takes in some iconic terrain.

csl

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#15 Re: Skye 9th - 15th - anything
May 06, 2021, 01:05:43 pm
Thanks everyone, if I can find someone to climb with I'll make sure to have a look at something on the Neist sea cliffs.

A day trip to Raasay is a good shout, I grew up in Applecross so I've spent a lot of time looking at it but have never been.

Fiend, PUTP looks mega, no need to apologise!

Thanks Will - yeah the main goal was to do the ridge, but I have a scrambling guide with the coire lagan round in and my dad was telling me about how great it is yesterday so would love that to be an option. Unfortunately it looks like the mountains will be freshly covered in snow for the week.

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#16 Re: Skye 9th - 15th - anything
May 06, 2021, 01:06:36 pm
the incredible undeveloped Czech-style crag towering above.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/7538425@N05/46993379094/in/photostream

This undeveloped crag?  :-\

Johnny Brown

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#17 Re: Skye 9th - 15th - anything
May 06, 2021, 01:29:50 pm
Yeah. I was aware there'd been some activity but even 10 routes would be barely scraping the surface. Anymore info?

I think the best shorter days in the Cuillin are Clach Glas-Blaven and Sgurr Nan Gillean/ Basteir, but it's all good. Boat into Coruisk and Dubhs ridge then Sgurr Alaisdair might be the ultimate thiugh. Have always been thwarted by weather on full trav.

teestub

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#18 Re: Skye 9th - 15th - anything
May 06, 2021, 01:31:30 pm

A day trip to Raasay is a good shout, I grew up in Applecross so I've spent a lot of time looking at it but have never been.


Holy shit what a place to grow up! Obvs a different place these days with the 500 but felt like the back of beyond when I first went about 10 years ago. Assume it was mandatory to work at the Inn?

Will Hunt

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#19 Re: Skye 9th - 15th - anything
May 06, 2021, 01:37:51 pm
Boat into Coruisk and Dubhs ridge then Sgurr Alaisdair might be the ultimate thiugh. Have always been thwarted by weather on full trav.

I've done this setting out from Sligachan and hitching to the boat and back from Glenbrittle. Which is fine but lifts are less likely nowadays with the Rona about. In fact I think we were quite naive at the time in thinking that we'd get a lift back. If Mike Lates hadn't picked us up we might have been stuck. If there was a way around the logistical faff it would be a great day out (snow-covered slabs notwithstanding).

csl

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#20 Re: Skye 9th - 15th - anything
May 06, 2021, 01:44:55 pm

A day trip to Raasay is a good shout, I grew up in Applecross so I've spent a lot of time looking at it but have never been.


Holy shit what a place to grow up! Obvs a different place these days with the 500 but felt like the back of beyond when I first went about 10 years ago. Assume it was mandatory to work at the Inn?

My dad moved us south to Cambridge in 1999 (I'm not sure I've forgiven him yet), I was around 10 so never got the chance to work at the Inn but yeah I think it's pretty much mandatory. I remember it a bit from the late 90's, before it was extended and it had a pool table in the middle of it - hard to imagine that now.

It was an incredible place to be a kid, we actually lived in Cuaig, about 10 miles north on the coast road so the bustling metropolis of Applecross was quite exciting to me back then.

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#21 Re: Skye 9th - 15th - anything
May 06, 2021, 01:46:29 pm
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If there was a way around the logistical faff it would be a great day out

A friend/ relative who likes driving but not climbing is the obvious solution - they could do the boat trip and have a potter round Coruisk too. When Ben and I bailed off the winter traverse we ended up stranded in a very quiet Glenbrittle. I didn't expect a lift but we were hoping to either bivvy in the hostel or at least phone a taxi. The hostel was locked and the first few doors we knocked on refused to let us use the phone! Luckily we found a local mountain guide pottering in his drive who grudgingly gave us a lift for £20.

csl

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#22 Re: Skye 9th - 15th - anything
May 06, 2021, 01:54:37 pm
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If there was a way around the logistical faff it would be a great day out

A friend/ relative who likes driving but not climbing is the obvious solution

Itís perfect until the weather is bad and you need someone to belay you on some sea cliffs  :lol:

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#23 Re: Skye 9th - 15th - anything
May 06, 2021, 02:00:23 pm
Yeah. I was aware there'd been some activity but even 10 routes would be barely scraping the surface. Anymore info?

Not beyond those pics. It must have been some effort. Ian T might have more of an idea of grades. I've mixed feelings about the location but wont knock it til I've tried it.

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#24 Re: Skye 9th - 15th - anything
May 06, 2021, 02:06:20 pm
Thanks everyone, if I can find someone to climb with I'll make sure to have a look at something on the Neist sea cliffs.

A day trip to Raasay is a good shout, I grew up in Applecross so I've spent a lot of time looking at it but have never been.

Fiend, PUTP looks mega, no need to apologise!

Thanks Will - yeah the main goal was to do the ridge, but I have a scrambling guide with the coire lagan round in and my dad was telling me about how great it is yesterday so would love that to be an option. Unfortunately it looks like the mountains will be freshly covered in snow for the week.

PM me and I can put you in touch with some locals who might be keen to get out.

 

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