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Campussing on your Board (Read 3278 times)

Anti

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Campussing on your Board
May 04, 2021, 12:33:30 pm
Christ, campussing is an ugly word.

Anyway, I'd like to do some campus training. I've picked up a Lattice plan on the cheap and it's suggested I start adding some. I'm a bit on the fence as to whether I'll benefit but I've decided I'll commit to doing what I'm told for 3 months and see where I end up.

I've a 45 degree woodie. I don't think adding whopping great rungs to it is feasible for 1-4-7 work, because it seems too steep. Has anyone built some sort of detatchable board to clip in? Thinking some bolt hangars at the top of my board and some sort of potentially dangerous invention to secure it at a nice angle. Should I buy some edges ripped at 45 degree and just campus on them and pretend it's similar?

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#1 Re: Campussing on your Board
May 04, 2021, 01:14:23 pm
I have built a detachable fingerboard mount that attaches to the t-nuts in my 45 degree woodie and provides a vertical face for a fingerboard. It's a wooden frame with some beefy angle brackets attached which are then bolted into the woodie t-nuts. I did consider doing something similar to create a mini campus board but have never got round to it.

Nibile

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#2 Re: Campussing on your Board
May 04, 2021, 01:18:03 pm
I've done a fair bit of campusing over the years (and my shoulders and elbows still thank me), both on a campus board and on boards, and there are similarities, but as you said on very overhanging boards you miss the vertical pull.
I'd say that on a very steep board it's preferable to campus on problems rather than on rungs. It transfers better to climbing, given that you don't set "ladder" type problems: you have to be doing a little bit of funky moves to really reap the benefits.
Campusing on problems is more complete both technically and physically.

Anti

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#3 Re: Campussing on your Board
May 04, 2021, 01:48:58 pm
I have built a detachable fingerboard mount that attaches to the t-nuts in my 45 degree woodie and provides a vertical face for a fingerboard. It's a wooden frame with some beefy angle brackets attached which are then bolted into the woodie t-nuts. I did consider doing something similar to create a mini campus board but have never got round to it.

Great, this is the sort of thing I was thinking of, into the tnuts at top of the board and then just some sort of triangle structure to support it. I'm not sure of the science involved in the forces on the bolts though.

I've done a fair bit of campusing over the years (and my shoulders and elbows still thank me), both on a campus board and on boards, and there are similarities, but as you said on very overhanging boards you miss the vertical pull.
I'd say that on a very steep board it's preferable to campus on problems rather than on rungs. It transfers better to climbing, given that you don't set "ladder" type problems: you have to be doing a little bit of funky moves to really reap the benefits.
Campusing on problems is more complete both technically and physically.

This would be the best solution. My holds are generally a bit ratty to get any meaningful campus routes on, but I could invest in some reasonably decent incut >30mm wooden holds and campus to and from those, using other holds to spice things up.

At the beginning of last year's lockdown I built a 5 rung campus board going up the stairs, it worked reasonably well so I may just resort to something like this again.

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#5 Re: Campussing on your Board
May 04, 2021, 02:30:03 pm
I'm no friend of campussing - but could you make some large (and wide) holds from some 38x78mm cls with a suitable (40-45 degree?) incut and campus up those (as Nibs suggests?)?

I made some holds like this for my 50 and they are great as warm up holds or for huge moves with poor feet. If I had a few more of them (and the space to fit them) I could see them working really well for this....  and would cost you a fiver.

Christ, campussing is an ugly word.

This might help, psychologically, with your mental image of Campussing:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Suitical-Recovery-Small-Black-Camouflage/dp/B00NHNC43S/ref=asc_df_B00NHNC43S/?tag=googshopuk-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=309876561345&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=5626258925683099713&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1006886&hvtargid=pla-402408339748&psc=1&th=1&psc=1

Nice OMM. Might get a bit breezy around the tail hole though...

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#6 Re: Campussing on your Board
May 04, 2021, 03:37:05 pm
That’s exactly what I’ve done here, just below the Artemis jug and the Crusher crimp.

2.4 mtr length of dry wall framing from B&Q (£2.65) and a good chop saw (worth it’s weight in chalk). Definitely campussable on a steep board, but then, so are the large Crushers and ultimately, a set of those is cheaper than the timber and chop saw combined.


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#7 Re: Campussing on your Board
May 04, 2021, 03:51:02 pm
Genuine question: what might campussing achieve that climbing hard problems on a steep board already isn't? Is it just a slightly more intense and sustained focus on pulling? Is it that it's more measurable over time for benchmarking?

Nibile

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#8 Re: Campussing on your Board
May 04, 2021, 03:54:23 pm
This is just to give an idea about rungs.
« Last Edit: May 04, 2021, 03:59:35 pm by Nibile »

remus

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#9 Re: Campussing on your Board
May 04, 2021, 04:05:07 pm
Genuine question: what might campussing achieve that climbing hard problems on a steep board already isn't? Is it just a slightly more intense and sustained focus on pulling? Is it that it's more measurable over time for benchmarking?

For people with a very static style it could help develop some dynamic movement skills and the associated power required for that style of movement.

Paul B

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#10 Re: Campussing on your Board
May 04, 2021, 04:19:29 pm
For people with a very static style it could help develop some dynamic movement skills and the associated power required for that style of movement.

I'll just leave this here.

Anti

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#11 Re: Campussing on your Board
May 04, 2021, 04:39:11 pm
For people with a very static style it could help develop some dynamic movement skills and the associated power required for that style of movement.

I'll just leave this here.

This is an interesting read, I can't say I'm particularly sold on the idea of campus boarding (much less ugly verb) as a solution to my problems  but there's a very specific theme to my 3 month plan from Lattice and I'm willing to put them in the driving seat for 12 weeks and see where I am at the end of it. They're put in my plan as an "if you can also get access to a campus board these would benefit you" thing.

If I can get a campus session in without having to pay whatever fee Beacon charge these days then I'll go along with it. I reckon the entry fee there is probably the cost of a set of crusher campus rungs anyway, when I've pissed about on a campus board it's always felt fun. I'm all for party tricks.

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#12 Re: Campussing on your Board
May 04, 2021, 04:41:44 pm
To clarify, I was talking about campusing in the general sense (i.e. including doing feet off problems) as I assumed Liam's Q was about general campusing.

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#13 Re: Campussing on your Board
May 04, 2021, 05:38:00 pm
For people with a very static style it could help develop some dynamic movement skills and the associated power required for that style of movement.

I'll just leave this here.

What are you lot blathering on about?

If you can’t campus through the crux, the problem/route is just some morpho shite for little bendy people that don’t shave yet (face/legs depending on your identified gender/ general preference/ attitude to road cycling).

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#14 Re: Campussing on your Board
May 04, 2021, 08:42:09 pm
I have built a detachable campus board for the garage woody.  It's just a piece of 18mm ply, the width of a rung, with 6 rungs on it.  I then drilled a hole in each corner and threaded a sling through (short) the top holes and another (longer) through the bottom holes.  The board is then clipped into 4 hangers secured into T nuts with an m10 bolt.

It wobbles a little but you honestly don't notice while campussing (though I'm sure it must add some dificulty).  It's also great for foot on campussing with feet on the woody.  Very quick and east to build.

Dave

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#15 Re: Campussing on your Board
May 04, 2021, 08:51:20 pm
Gollum is your man for the campus board. He had one on the outside of his house fixed by glue in the threaded bolts. So you could just unscrew the nuts and take it down.

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#16 Re: Campussing on your Board
May 05, 2021, 07:23:45 am
Gollum is your man for the campus board. He had one on the outside of his house fixed by glue in the threaded bolts. So you could just unscrew the nuts and take it down.


And a thing of beauty it was, built with a box steel frame by Al Manson to really preside measurements. The board, generally, stayed up  and was painted to help weather proof it but the rungs came on and off with two (maybe three) countersunk bolts and a good electric screwdriver.

Did use it a lot as either a training tool or to test levels of strength, being most definitely in the strong but no technique camp.

Neighbours were horrified when I said I was getting it built but fine once it was up.

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#17 Re: Campussing on your Board
May 05, 2021, 11:19:14 am
Pretty similar, many years ago I made brackets out of 3x2 and ply, fixed to a wall, and the campus board and frame could be lifted in and out. Worked ok, though somewhat very rough job. The same logic could be applied to a board with a bit of tweeking. I had to wait until the neighbours were out before I started slamming fixings into their kitchen wall :/
Hopefully this fb pic works...
https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=109911905715897&set=pb.100000912646468.-2207520000..&type=3

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#18 Re: Campussing on your Board
May 05, 2021, 11:56:44 am
To clarify, I was talking about campusing in the general sense (i.e. including doing feet off problems) as I assumed Liam's Q was about general campusing.

It wasn't meant as a direct response (sorry lazy quoting), just a good place to put Nige's wisdom (I'm not entirely sold on your clarification but I'll avoid de-railing the thread).

For the OP: Adam Lincoln had a frame that sounds similar to Gollum's welded up recently. I don't think it was cheap mind you (maybe they just saw the flashy van/car before they'd agreed the price)

 

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