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Power Club 579 26 April - 2 May 2021 (Read 1928 times)

shark

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Power Club 579 26 April - 2 May 2021
May 02, 2021, 09:06:02 am
11.4-7 Average 159.9lbs (up 1.1lbs)

M. PM/Eve LPT with Paul. Cold - mint. Just us and Jordan and Vickers there. Warmed up on UTB (so good). Two goes up on top rope on Statement. Resisted temptation to go up a third time to preserve skin and strength. Did all the moves and some useful refinements but still need sort feet in a few places. Classic hard route. Couldnít picture being able to redpoint it. Interested to see where I am with it by the end of the week.

T. Crap nightís sleep in the van. Not used to it. Headed down to LPT way too early but worse places to hang out. Cold again. Paul thought conditions worse but I didnít notice so much. Two other local teams. Two goes up it avoiding the first traverse. Some more good refinements and managing sections

W. Rest day exploring slate quarries. Llanberis dead.

T. Lunch Local climber wanted to run laps on the 7b on left pillar of Parisellas so gave him a belay and dogged up it a couple of times to warm up.PM/Eve. Still cold. One other local team. Climbing conditions mint. First go up linked from below 6th bolt to clipping 8th at start of top traverse and worked top traverse foot sequence. Second go a bit further linking below 6th bolt to middle of top traverse then more work on the traverse. Third go tired. Dogged to top traverse and worked it some more but even now still not got it engrained and get confused on the moves.

F. PM/Eve. Cold/mint. Just us and another couple turned up. First tie in I ruthlessly worked the top traverse and took my phone to note down the definitive sequence. Nailed and logged it. Should be able to dance across this section now if I can get it hardwired into the memory bank. Second go was a good burn from below the 6th bolt to clipping the 9th getting to the end of the traverse (14 moves). Would have been good to have got to the top but body and skin ragged by now. Short play on the last bit then called it a night.

S.

S.

Lucky to get 4 days of good conditions at LPT. Statement is one of only two iconic 8aís Iím really psyched for (other is Cider Soak). Itís savage on the skin with generally good handholds and poor feet. Itís very sustained with the meat of the route being about 32 hard moves with only two poor shakes.

The whole route breaks down into 4 sections. Bolts 1-4 is easy and maybe sport 6c. Bolts 4-6 (10 moves) is a burly heelhook traverse with a stiff pull at the end to get stood above the lip with a poor shake - maybe Font6B+ for this section Bolts 6-8 is 12 hand moves of burly and knacky climbing leading to the top traverse and a poor shake. Bolt 8 (of 9) to the top has 7 hand moves on the traverse mainly on thin undercuts and requires an intricate foot sequence to take the power out of the moves leaving a few stiff pulls up (redpoint crux) to gain the belay.

Overall not far off doing it with a single rest point on bolt 6 and would be disappointed not to do that when next on it if fresh. Also would benefit on spending more time on the first traverse and pull up.

Great to get away for a few days - had been feeling restless. Good intro to vanlife. Was concerned that climbing 4 days out of 5 would lead to burnout so paced myself and made sure I was well fuelled. Seems to have worked as did my biggest link on my last tie on.

Good to feel like a route climber again. Plotting to head back in a week assuming weather is ok.
« Last Edit: May 02, 2021, 09:35:35 am by shark »

duncan

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Sounds like a decent start on Statement. Six days is the target?

M - Box steps for 35 minutes. Walked 10km. Rings: Ys and Ts. Fingerboard: warmed up and did 5 bodyweight hangs on the 20mm edge. Shoulder tolerated this.
T - Walked 10km. Shoulder Ys and Ts.
W - Box steps for 40 minutes. Climbing indoors for the first time in 15 months at the new Stronghold. Despite being objectively very safe - it is a big well-ventilated space, very quiet mid afternoon, and I have loads of antibodies - it still felt very strange. ~50 problems to V2 in 90 minutes. Great space, genial staff, and good setting (if the easy stuff is interesting the hard will be too). Iíll be back.
T - Pull-ups.
F - Walked 10km. Shoulder Ys, Ts.
S - Portland. Blacknor Far South with Bridbeast. Quiet spot despite Battleship and Blacknor South looking like they were heaving. Led 7 (and a half) routes in the 6a-6b range. Ran out of gas.
S - Walked 10km. Shoulder Ys, Ts.

A good week. Aches and pains subsiding, climbed outside and inside, managed a fingerboard session. Still feel very weak and stamina is non-existent.  These will come back, slowly.

Plan: more of the same.

Duma

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M - am drive to Dorset, pm Dancing Ledge, glorious day to get reacquainted with a crag I last visited around 2003... retro flashed a 7a, and another 2nd go, plus a few easier things.
T - Dancing Ledge again (it's a theme of this holiday, 25 min walk from the air b & b and lots for everyone). Three easier warmup and then retro flash of a techy 7a+ wall, then did the excellent Circus Beach 7b+ on the lower tier, great fun monkeying through a 3m roof, even put a crack glove on!
W - rest, walk and pub
T - Dancing Ledge, 3 7a's, including 2 I hadn't done before! Then went downstairs and had a joyous time dogging around in the big cave on Hells Darker Chambers 7c+. Neither me or Remus managed the crux move but it was still brilliant to finally get on a route that's been a bit of a legend to me since starting sport climbing at this crag in the late 90's. Pub in the evening, where a vague plan was hatched...
F - Hedbury, one of the few crags with a grade 1 sport route, and as we'd realised the night before, also a 2, a 3, etc etc all the way to 7c. So despite arriving at the crag at 1300, Remus and me started on our "all the grades" challenge. Did 6a+ to 6c first, then both got up the 7c (Cinderellas Big Score) in a couple of goes, pleased with this as it was a) a good route with a quality top bulge, and b) theoretically the biggest hurdle. Next up was the 7b and 7b+, cheated a bit here as the 7b was the 7b+ but starting off a pile of stones... took a few goes to get the boulder problem through the roof for the 7b+ tick, but despite a brief wobble from Remus we both got through - it was on! Racing against energy and skin we fought up the 7a, then the 6c+ was nicely technical, and a final big push saw us both through the 7a+ and onto the finishing straight! At this point the sun was setting and support crew abandoned us for the comfort of the accommodation, but we pushed on through the aching feet to tick the 6a, 5+, 5, 4+, 4, 3, 2, and 1, before a leap into the (fucking baltic) sea at dusk and a brisk trot up the hill past some frisky cattle to curry and bed. Amazing day, utterly exhausted, and very lucky to have got the level of challenge so right, was genuinely in doubt until we only had 6a and below left to do.
S - Dancing Ledge, pretty battered from yesterday's exploits but managed a brilliantly positioned over the sea 6b+ (Born Again) that I'd not done before, and a retro flash of Sugar Ray (7a+).
S - Last day, back to Dancing Ledge. Was hoping an easier day yesterday would have allowed me another crack at Hells Darker Chambers, but such ambitions were soon dispelled as I barely managed a retro flash of the excellent Haunted By A Million Screams (6c+). Contented myself with spending the rest of the day belaying, lying in the sun, contriving a ridiculous feet first sequence on the initial roof of another 6c+, and a quick dip before the drive home.

Brilliant week, exhausted now. Psyched to come back for HDC which is good as gf keen to return for her project too.

? kg.

spidermonkey09

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Great weeks Shark and Duma!

M - rest

T - rest

W - Malham after work. Nice conditions, neither too warm or too cold. Felt strong warming up. First go up went absolutely perfectly, until I hit the jug at the end of the traverse and somehow failed to hold it. Some embarrassing swearing occurred for which I apologised! Second and third goes were less good but made it to the undercuts at the start of the traverse every time, when previously I had only managed that once in a session. I also tend to perform less well after work so in that context it had to be seen as a good session despite the disappointment of not ticking it.

T - rest

F - rest. Handed notice in at work.  :strongbench:

S - Almscliff at 9am to assist with laying the path. Superb turnout ensured that the work was done super quick. Slightly concerned I had jeapardised my redpoint chances by pushing wheelbarrows full of stone up the hill but needs must. Drove to Malham and felt below par, hungry and a bit woozy. Watched Will Hunt fall off Space Race at the top. Got warmed up and had a go. Felt pretty average on the traverse but made it to the move before the jug before dropping off totally spent. Refuelled and had an hours rest. Gave it the beans, got the jug and brought feet up, but again felt powered out and came off despite a massive effort. Some minor swearing but James Ibb confirmed it was appropriate for the context. Annoyed, but with a new high point it was surely coming. Taped up thin finger for final go as felt broken and reasoned I had no chance. Lower wall went OK but hardly slick. Nearly fell off matching the horn but just about held it. Got to top undercuts but felt tired. Went for it as fast as I could and climbed really efficiently through the traverse to the move to the jug. Somehow held it, brought feet up and got to the right hand sidepull jug where I shook out and calmed down. Felt confident and pretty serene, sorted feet out to go to the top and left foot wildly skated off! Fortunately I was in the zone by now and calmly pasted it back on and cruised to the chain. Amazing to do it that go considering how fucked I was. Delighted to polish it off, what an amazing route. Pint in the Listers after.

S - Gigg North. Scraped up Illywacker despite climbing appallingly. Felt sore and knackered but fun day out. 36C did a 7a and loudly complained how much he hated sport climbing.

Great week. Very pleased to finish the Oak off. Looking forward to some quicker ticks and hopefully some time on Urgent Action or Defcon, among others. That said I will probably end up back at Malham tomorrow as the forecast looks grim elsewhere!

Fiend

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What a legendary Friday, Duma  :punk:

Also Duncan good that you're managing to get some volume in, hope that keeps improving.

dunnyg

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Mon-
Ilkley. Easy boulders to warm up, then got on ringpiece. Managed all the moves apart from the hard one, which I did with a pad dab. Friendly on the skin, so I will be back, I will have to use my heels well which is good for me!

Tu-

We-
Ruin bank, 17 problems up to 6C, including some FAs. Enjoyable.

Thurs-
MTB. About 10 km with 250m ascent. Faffy but fun on the local

Fri-

Sat-
Thrope moor end, tick off the new things I didn't manage last time. Dropped a rope down a highball wall/hanging arete with a tricky start. Didn't require too much scrubbing, and took a little sussing. Probably in the region of font 6C to an easy but high finish.  Proper chuffed with it, felt old school E2/3 6a/b. Tried the other side of the arete too, but it felt nails and crimpy (maybe 7B?). It is a shame that the rock under the roof is snappy, as it is one of the coolest looking roofs in Yorkshire and 4m + long and even wider  :'(

I did a few more easy FAs up to 6A after, but im sure they will all be retroclaimed. Topo to come, and maybe a viddy of the highball.

Sunday
Surf session. Accidentally wore a thin wetsuit, so obviously was fucking freezing. Not the best connies, and managed to headbutt the seabed and give myself a fat lip.

Feel like I haven't pulled on anything hard for ages, and it seems like that will continue indefinitely.
Finger started feeling bad after Saturday, which is wounding. Needs proper rest, but finding it tricky not to climb. Any magic bullets for (probably) pulley injuries would be much appreciated. Voodoo accepted.
 

Coops_13

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M: Density pickups 20mm 40s LH 40lb *1, 45lb *3 RH 35lb *4 HC. PT, strength testing session. Pulling strength at 120 and 90 deg was roughly BW (single arm) each arm on a bar. 20mm edge hitting 140lb LH, 95lb RH. Slower ramp up due to lacking confidence. V psyched though. Full A2 rupture to pulling 95lb 20mm Half crimp in 5 days fewer than 3 months!

T: Density pickups 20mm 40s LH 40lb *1, 45lb *3 RH 35lb *4 HC. Legs. Leg press, calf raise, knee extension, hamstring curl. X15 *3sets. Squats up to 165lb *3sets. RDL up to 115lb *3sets. Lower body stretching

W: DBC. TA Max Hangs - 20 mm, 7s hangsup to +20lb. Bouldering for 45 mins, did 12 M- boulders, 3 M boulders including one that went third try (every other boulder so far has been flashed). Again, feel like I am pushing finger quite a bit but progress is maintained. Pull-ups EMOM X7 *10mins (managed 7 sets X7, 1 X6, 2 X5. Shoulder press X6, bicep curls X5 *3sets, dips. 500m on rower in 1:46 - nearly killd me, grim.

T: Density pickups 20mm 40s LH 40lb *1, 45lb *3 RH 35lb *2, 40lb *2 HC.

F: Terrain Boulders. First day outside since A2 rupture, 3 months to the day. 1hr approach with dog due to two pads and getting a bit lost. 2 miles and 1000ft elevation gain to boulders. Really big boulders up here, everything I did was 6m+. Warmed up and did a V1 (highball) then did Eara Fuchin' Schmuckin' V3. Moved over to Spewbacca V4, mega highball. Steep but good holds all the way. Took a couple of lobs working out best feet then sent, psyched. Went over to play on a variation to Parasol which has broken, thought it looked around V5 but while trying I couldn't get anything out of the small slopey crimps over the lip so maybe harder... Skin thin so called it and went home.


S: Morrison Bouldering. Short session here before the storm. Friend from Switzerland over for work so good to show him some rock before he flew home. Did the usual warm-ups including a V3 and V4. Moved onto Arrowhead Arete which I hadn't tried before (V6 from a stand). Very good and finger not sore but skin letting me down as well as feeling weak.

First outdoors for three months, v psyched with how it's feeling. Slowly gaining confidence with the finger but making good progress to be in an ok state for alpine...

Will Hunt

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W - Ruin Bank brushing and new stuff. Lots of problems, mostly easy. Worked out the sitter to a knacky arete which adds more knack to it. A couple of plays on each of the moves to suss body positions then went first go on the link. Felt like a good problem. Also added a nice 6C and some 6Bish stuff. It's a nice new area. Andy Hobson says Groovejet is one of the best 6Bs in Yorkshire. Paul Clarke has been in and given it the seal of approval. Job well done.

Sa - Malham. In 2018 I went up Space Race and got really pumped going up the poorly practiced top section and fell off going into the crack of Yosemite Wall from which you clip the chain. At some point in 2019 or 2020 I had a crap go on it when feeling dehydrated/otherwise fucked. Expected to find this a battle as I've no idea where my fitness is at the moment. There's no earthly reason that I should be in good nick as I've been doing very little serious climbing lately.
Dogged up and the initial wall felt very pleasant. All on your feet. Spent a little time and found a steadier way to finish the steeper bit in the middle. Remembered that the finish is steady away if you're not an idiot.
Redpoint go. Got through to the rest nicely but was getting a bicep cramp as I went. Shook out in the rest and bicep cramp disappeared. Recovered really well. Went up the last bit and began to get a little pumped, which forced a stupid sequence error, moving both feet up when I should have only moved one up. Result: bunched like a spider with the crack in front of my nose. Slapped and fell, exactly the same place as 3 years ago.
Jim came over to crow. "One off the top! Shambles!"
2nd go. Didn't expect anything as I wouldn't expect to get a good second go on a long route (I'm that unused to any sort of mileage). Middle section a mess as I realised I was using the wrong sequence even as I did it. Fortunately the holds are quite big so I could take the time to reset feet and make the move to the rest. Recovered and it was steady away up to the top.
Feels like a great marker. Obviously my fitness is objectively shit but I'm happy to be where I am at this point in the season.

I left the crag before Jim went up the Oak but did see attempts one and two. I know it's a short route but he was getting high on it and leaving everything on the rock, so I was amazed to read he'd done it on the third attempt of the session. Machina.
« Last Edit: May 03, 2021, 12:16:46 am by Will Hunt »

Duma

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Some great weeks, nice one all!
Shark, sounds like good first sessions, well done getting LPT conditions too, though sounds like the routes style is less dependent than say Malham sport?
Duncan, sounds a bit better than previous week for post covid symptoms? Was hoping to get over to portland during our time away but never managed it.
SM09, the Oak and quitting job, that's a truly strong week!
Nice work on getting your finger back in shape coops, you've def put the work in with the density pick ups over the past few months.

JohnM

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Power Club is a good read this week! Good to hear people getting out, trying hard and getting stuff done!

M - Mobility + knee rehab

T - Mobility + knee rehab. Trail running 11.57km 407m

W - After work session on Der Schwarze Schwan (8c). There was already another pair on the route when we arrived (same pair who were on my nemesis 8a+ route from a couple of months back). Usually this could be problem with this route as there is not much else there so people mostly come to try this route. Fortunately, one of them is ex-Austrian team and the other an 8b boulderer so there was no endless move dogging from their side! My first proper go I fell in the traverse. Second go I got through the traverse for the first time to the juggy ramp, rested (too long) and got high up into the final boulder problem falling in the last two hard moves. I feel pretty close to doing this route now. Unfortunately my main partner for the route didn't make much progress so is not keen to go back and I am relying on girlfriend coming to belay me after work! I have got a month to get it done before I return to the UK for a few weeks in June and the conditions become too warm until Autumn. Conditions are already sub-optimal now for a crimpy granite route as it seems to be warm and humid all the time. I will see how it goes!

T - Mobility and knee rehab. Trail running 9.85km 373m.

F - Mobility and knee rehab. Mountain biking 21.25km 631m.

S - Climbing at Monkey Island in Zillertal. I can't believe I haven't been here before. After a pretty crazy approach using fixed ropes, which feels like you are going through a jungle clinging to the side of the mountain you reach these huge boulders with amazing rippled granite. My partner wanted to finish the last remaining lower grade 8 for him there which has become his nemesis 8a. Despite not being the best line on the crag I decided to join him as it is fun to work a route with somebody else and I was curious to see what could stop someone with 9a power on an 8a! I found the over hanging shouldery start hard (whereas he walks up this section). However, the top wall on crimps and gastons was no problem for me and I managed to tick the route first redpoint after sketching up the overhanging lower half. I belayed another friend for 20 minutes but afterwards nobody else felt ready to climb again. Despite still feeling pretty tired after the first route, I decided to use the time to boulder out the start of the classic 8a of the crag. Somehow, I got through the boulder problem whilst still having a conversation that had started on the ground and I don't really remember much about it! At this point I still didn't think I was going to try and onsight/flash the route but I managed to get through the next hard section to a shake and then the onsight became on! Obviously at this point I became massively pumped and sketchy and more nervous the higher I got. I power screamed though the red point crux two thirds of the way up and shook my way to the top in a completely boxed state. It was more of a flash than an onsight in the end as my mate shouted up general directions and stuff about the holds getting better if I kept moving etc but I am still psyched to flash 8a, particularly in Tirol where the grades are tough and there is usually always a stopper move. After a long recovery I wanted to make it a triple crown of grade 8s but unfortunately it started raining and we ran out of time.

S - Trail running 30.1km 1513m. I felt like I was running on empty during this run and my knee was very weak. After doing lots of rehab I felt like I had made good progress, even doing a single leg squat for the first time in ages. However, maybe I have been over doing it and I should simply rest my knee for a couple of days now.   

shark

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Sounds like a decent start on Statement. Six days is the target?

No idea. Will be interesting to head up it fresh and see how it feels. Going at it 2days on 1day off 2days on was exhausting despite pacing myself. Felt wiped this weekend. Normally Iíd spread 4 sessions like that over a couple of weeks.

Iíve only recently started getting a decent level of stamina and you have to get to the end of the top traverse fresh enough for the next moves which are tenuous. Repeatedly being spat off there is a possibility until you get the fitness and slickness.

Also we were spoilt with a week of good conditions. May not be so lucky next time.
« Last Edit: May 03, 2021, 10:28:28 am by shark »

SA Chris

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M- lunchtime max hangs, run 8.5km
T - kettlebells (I think)
W - birthday, sadly working, but mates were at Boltsheugh, so can get there in under 5 mins running, so grabbed a quick lunchtime session, a few easier probs and tired some of the harder eliminates. Sunny and cool. Ate out evening.
T - lunchtime max hangs.
F - dumbell flies, too many.
S - back to wall, first time since dec. Spent most of the tiome belaying Kyle, but worked through new probs, some good setting and nice variety. Tri curls evening.
S - Rotter Rocks again. easy 15 in walk, did a few warm ups on little tidal wall, tried prob mate did last week and got nowhere, did a new bum scraper traverse, and a few versions of other things. Nice morning, much cooler, and spitty rain came to nothing, even though it was tipping down and hailing in Aberdeen.

Nibile

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Power Club
Mon - PE low 1/30" x3 good, with margin. Snatch DL 90 kg 5x5 tired. High pulls, bentover row.
Tue - rest.
Wed - weights, bar work. Short on time.
Thu - very short on time. PE low 1/20" x3 just barely but not extreme. Press + wide grip clean 5x5. Wide grip press 5x5. Snatch pulls + bentover row 5x5.
Fri - rest.
Sat - weights.
Sun - a quick Litvinov.

Yossarian

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Not done this for a while. Trained my arse off until early March and then various domestic arguments and mounting dread about running out of money and getting absolutely nowhere with job applications started to take their toll. Went to the Churnet with daughter and met up with CSL end of March - awesome day and nearly finished Simple Simon Indirect, despite feeling quite rusty initially. Undid all the good work in Jan by drinking like a fish and eating far too much cheese for a few weeks and putting loads of weight back on. Then bizarrely found myself getting somewhere with interviews for a total dream job which would largely sort my life out. Syke returned, cut out booze again, started planning training and trips again.

Previous week
M-F nothing
S - Wall. Tried very hard to pace myself after overdoing it post last lockdown and fucking my forearms. Felt pretty amazing considering I'd not pulled on anything for about 4 weeks. Fingers feeling vastly stronger than they've ever been before. Pity they're currently attached to a 100kg rugby player.
S
M - Wall. Not recovered from Sat, and a slightly rushed warm up resulted in horrible tweaky aches in arms, back and shoulders. 2 mins on board confirmed that I couldn't do anything that involved pulling hard so ended up on the slab.
T - 8km run - felt like I was back to square one, but at least didn't tweak anything.
W - Started some press weights / pull-ups, but just picking up dumbbells caused mini flareup in my forearm and elbows, so gave up.
T - 8km run. Still quite slow, but felt more pleasant that M.
Wall. An hour on the board. Fingers felt really good, but generally quite inaccurate / uncoordinated. Most of my current boulder ticklish (SS Indirect / Blind Bat, etc) have dynamic moves that I often don't believe I'm actually going to manage (being generally quite slow and static), so trying to replicate that sort of thing. Then some easier stuff downstairs and just managed to hold the 45deg BM slopers for a few seconds too.
F
S - Wall. Still feeling a bit tired and sore, so tried to flash fun looking things on the comp wall.

Trying to be quite strategic with aims for the next few months. Focusing on boulders is probable the best plan, and kids are quite up for some day raids and the odd weekend away. Also hoping that Font will be a possibility for August again as that will massively help with syke. If this job works out then then I'd be quite confident about finally realising some longer term climbing goals. In the meantime, push on with healthier lifestyle, running, and start a strength phase as soon as my body can take it.

Duncan Disorderly

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Big tings a gwaan... Bon effort guys!

M: Routes @ Horseshit - Quick warmup then sling rope on Southern Man (F7b now) - Pissed bottom section, quick hang as forgot the start of the hard bit. Work it out and do it first try, it's on! Look at top holds only to notice them covered in claret! 2 and a half unnoticed flappers - arse! Maybe it's not! Come down and lead up a 6 for the GF, no superglue, blood pissing everywhere, tape rolling off.... Decide today is not the day, TR up to get draws out and refine sequence... Tired and a bit miffed!
T: Routes @ AW - Warmup on a couple of 6's, get on sllightly harder warmup (F6b) fucking lob! WTF! Dog to the top, sulk for a bit... Get on F6b+ fucking lob off that too - Wanker!! Blood pissing through tape, think the staff hate me, I hate everyone, it's a beautiful thing! Go home, drink wine, curse shitty undergraded warmups and vow to wait til my skin heals....
W: Waiting
T: Waiting
F: Go to AW with Gf and Daughter - Belay only... Still bloody waiting!
S: More fucking waiting - skin is looking much better tho! Do a few pullups and shoulder stability shit!
S: Horseshit - GF agrees to be belay bunny. Dog up F7b to warmup - Raining a bit but feel good. Work all moves and remember to work clips too... Wait 30mins... Piss bottom, get to hard bit feeling fresh as fuck, it's on! Pull into crux, feel fine, last tricky move and... Fucking lob! Didn't pull hard enough and missed final hold by millimeteres... Was either a bit overconfident or a bit hesitant as the bolt is at yer feet... Pretty big lob but safe as houses... Straight down, 25min rest... New hole in finger but this time had some superglue on hand (thanks Bernie!)... Next go up all feels effortless, latch top jug with loads in the tank! Ace!

Interesting week, pretty much zero training, bit of climbing and some dubious performances and skin issue (probably due to all the mileage the previous week). Really nice to finally manage to get on some harder stuff, get an early season RP in and, even though it took longer than expected, feel strong and fit for it.... Roll on the summer!

Duma

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Good stuff dd, how was the gf with you falling unexpectedly?

SA Chris

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F - rest. Handed notice in at work.  :strongbench:


Was this in anticipation of sponsorship deals coming in once you had slain the Oak? Good effort all round.

shark

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F - rest. Handed notice in at work.  :strongbench:


Was this in anticipation of sponsorship deals coming in once you had slain the Oak? Good effort all round.

I've already signed up Oak Furnitureland - their stuff lasts forever

Duncan Disorderly

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Good stuff dd, how was the gf with you falling unexpectedly?
Cheers man... Yea she was fine. Think in hindsight the couple of unexpected lobs at AW on Tuesday were actually a pretty good idea and set her up well... When I asked her how it was she just replied - yea was fine! YYFY!!  ;D

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Wow, so much good stuff here this week. Happy to redress the balance.

M - Rest. I managed to pull something at the top of my calf/back of my knee while yanking my leg away from the cat who was biting my feet. It is legitimately quite painful/sore and means I canít drop knee. Hopefully this will settle down in a few weeks otherwise I might have to get a physio to take a look.

T - First set of a planned block of density hangs to hopefully help settle down some niggles. 6 x 30 seconds with 3 minutes rest between each hang. 2 x 3 finger drag, 2 x 4 finger chisel, 2 x 4 finger half crimp. 3 finger drag with a bit of weight taken off with feet on ground, 4 finger hangs at bodyweight. Followed by 10 x 1 minute on/off on board jugs getting a light to medium pump on. 10 x 5 on the minute pull ups to finish with.

W - Rest.

T - Devilís Gorge routes, decided to take a look at Cerberus 7c+/8a which I last tried back in 2019 when I made decent progress but was never that close to getting it done. Itís a link-up but calling it such is a massive disservice, itís a great line taking in the best climbing of both Hades and Grand Canyon and is home to potentially the best move in the Gorge. Anyway, reacquainted myself with the crux moves which, reassuringly, felt much easier than a couple of years ago.

F - Rest. Was planning on the Tor but various mix ups meant I decided to take a day off instead.

S - My girlfriend kindly offered me a belay so headed to Minera to try A Case Of You 7c+ (realistically she will be the only person I can ever persuade to belay me here!). Itís basically a 4 bolt slab, so not my style at all, but Iím weirdly keen for it. I have had one session here last year when I tried and failed at the crux sequence. This time I got that sorted after a lot of beta tweaking and then set about looking at the top sequence guarding the belay which both the people who have done it before said is hard but fine. Well, I couldnít do a single move on it and couldnít even work out where the holds were. A thorough spanking! Lowered off and went home.

S - Was planning a morning LPT session but put off by the forecast. Back to the Gorge instead for another few goes at Cerberus. Deserted when we arrived but got pretty busy perhaps unsurprisingly. Feeling good on the hard upper section but quickly realised Iím just not fit enough at the minute to get through the initial Grand Canyon section freshly enough. So, the plan for the next few weeks is purely to work on aerobic fitness both on the board and maybe the odd Gorge evening. Hopefully this will also set me up for the rest of the season nicely.

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W/C 26/4/21

M- Abs/core, pulls, Depot, run, stretching and yoga, large hold repeaters
T - Compression and chest, campus, repeaters, 50 board, abs, cardio, yoga and stretching
W - Small edges, Depot, cardio, pulls, yoga and stretching, abs/core
T - Yoga and stretching, abs, campus, repeaters, circuits, chest and compression, cardio
F - Cardio, weights, Buckstone, large hold repeaters, yoga and stretching, abs
S - Long walk
S - Shorter walk

Feel a bit knackered after what has been a very sociable weekend, with another one next weekend too. Stick with the plan and all will be well.

M - Up early and do abs/core work before heading out. 5 minute plank, 3x15 second front lever, weighted hollow bodies and hyperextensions.
At gym start with deadlifts and move on to some single arm pull downs, before realising I have a hospital appointment and have to cut things short. Not there long and get to wall for a social session nice and early so complete pulls stuff with speed pulls, one arm locks and scapular work.
Do upper body stretching as part of warm up routine.
Lots of volume at the Depot again on reds, purples, yellows and pinks. Do some work on technique and trying not to just muscle problems into submission.
Treadmill 5k, which is definitely feeling less unpleasant than it was.
Stretching for calves and sciatic nerve and yoga for hamstrings.
Do large hold repeaters, doing three five minutes sets of 7-3 on big holds. First set feels tough and Iím pumped by the end of it, but the flash pump wears off and other sets are okay.
50 paused rollouts

T - Start with bench press for singles, work up to a confident 95 and then do 5 sets with this as the working weight. Then experiment with some isometric holds with the bar, which is interesting. Move on to prone TRX Ts,Ys and Is for 3x5 with long holds on reps. Finish session with band supported Iron Cross, managing long holds with the purple band and short holds with black band, most definitely progress though.
Pudsey Depot back room training. Start with campus board session and solid enough on all benchmarks which surprised me a little as didnít think I would be. Starting to work on bigger moves.
Next is repeaters on Beastmaker. Solid as a rock and shows how much harder it is on my hone board with its additional 3į overhang. Only really struggled at all with Back 3 and only complete 3 rumeps at 7 seconds, less on other reps.
Do some compression hangs on opposing holds on 50 board to finish that section.
Move on to abs and some calf stretching. 3 minute planks and 3 minute stretching.
Board session on the standard old problems. Really just a case of getting reacquainted with the subtleties of it all. Some success, some failure.
30 minutes cardio on the Wattbike on the way home.
Yoga for hips at home and stretching for splits.
Quick abs session with floor exercises and 60 paused rollouts.

W - Undecided as to what to do, but decide I donít fancy going outside on my own again, so default to the Depot. Warm up with some fingerboard stuff including my small edges on the minute routine, then do some scapular strengthening and upper body stretches.
Session itself is on the new Woods and pleased to get them all done bar on which is too reachy and reliant in a twisted undercut fit me, but leaves me something to work on. Good set of varied problems with a mixture  of edges and pinches to play with.
Gym on way home. Start with 30 minutes cardio on stair climber, which is as tough as ever.
Pulls; heavy pull downs, power pulls, slow negatives, lock offs, offset pulls and close grip pull ups for todayís weights session in the gym.  gym.
Once home, do yoga for shoulders and stretching for pancake. Hamstrings felt a bit tighter today.
Abs and core to end the days work. Five minute plank followed by front levers, weighted hollow bodies and hyperextensions.

T - Waiting in for a parcel, so start with yoga for back and stretching for splits. Move on to abs with 3x3 minute planks, floor routine and rollouts.
Campus board session, concentrating on smaller moves on smaller holds and including ladders and jump and catches. Repeaters session and really happy as hit all my benchmarks but with shorter rests, also manage full set on Back 3, by starting with that.
Finish with Circuit Board, battling my way around all the circuits up to and including the 7b/+.
TRX prone Ts, Ys and Is for 3x5. Bench press for singles up to 100 and same for decline. 15į incline for 3x8 and 30į for 3x6. Supine TRX TYI combos to finish session.
Treadmill walking for half an hour for cardio and relaxation.

F - Start the day with 30 minutes back on treadmill.
Weights is for shoulders, biceps, triceps and wrists.
Nip up to Buckstone for another chilling in the sun moving around on easy ground session. Not a soul there when I arrive; bliss.
Big hold repeaters for 3 sets when I get home.
Yoga for fingers feet and twists and upper body stretches.

S - Away in Trough of Bowland in van, long walk with friends followed by beers.

S - Shorter walk and slightly less beers.

Still sticking with the plan.

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STG: all Shipley Alternative Circuit problems (routes) ticked off
MTG: Shipley Alternative Circuit in a day
LTG: Font 7a outdoors somewhere

M: Last Sun Dance evening session. Good potter around a few of the new re-set problems, inc flashing / ticking off a few of the V5s in short order. Moved on to the splatter / woodie board and set a few easy ones and found a couple of starts of projects.

W: LSD evening. Warmed up and got on the woodie again - sorted out finishes to the projects I'd started Monday, one good, one a bit too easy.

Sun: Big Depot with daughter (7 yrs old) - she did loads of routes (10ish I think), then moved on to boulder for a bit so I got to do a few auto-belays and a few problems on the bouldering.

BH Mon: awful weather, trip to Freeklime in Huddz with the kids - good session all round, kids all got to climb till they were tired and I got to do a few bits. Daughter did well on the adults problems in the main bit, and especially enjoyed some of the "no hands" slab traverse problems.

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"all the grades" challenge

This sounds absolutely brilliant!

Chatting to someone over the weekend I said that Power Club would be better if more people contributed to it, so putting my money where my mouth is...this was a de-load week following three intense weeks of projecting and training.

M - Howshaw Tor. Warm. On my own so took quite a few pads. Furthest I'd walked in 4 months with or without pads, so I was ruined by the time I got there. Warmed up on the 6s then had to work Black Rhino, and did it 3rd go from start. Hard for 7A I thought. Flashed the sitter to Monty Skips, then did the Inside Out Sit in a couple of goes. Had a very brief go on Panopticon but struggled releasing left hand with the toe hooks in. Stunning place, keen to go back. Bloodhound and Hare Today look incredible.

T & W - rest

T - Malham for first time ever. I've done very little sport climbing thus far with only 10 days out last year being the sum total. Top roped Consenting to warm up then led it first try. Was over-gripping everything as it was in full sun. Next flashed Rose Coronary putting the quick draws in although ended up just grabbing the chain to finish as couldn't get the krab open after faffing there for what felt like ages. Should have just put a quick draw on it really but didn't think about it at the time. Left the draws in and then did it again much more smoothly.

F - rest

S - fingerboard, 4x 6s full crimp hangs on 10mm edge +10kg with 1 min rests, then 6x 10s half crimp hangs on Lattice 20mm edge +30kg with 2 min rests. Managed them all but trying hard. Then 4x 5rep pull ups in half crimp on the Lattice 20mm edge +5kg.

S - Chee Dale with Andy F. Decided on Two Tier as it was hot in the sun. Flashed Subterfuge and Quality Control, then had an okay go up Nogads. Did all the moves but wasn't feeling super confident so surprised myself boshing it out first redpoint go. Felt like I had plenty in the tank, including for the last hard couple of moves over the bulge. First time I've done 7b+ in a session and already matched my hardest from last year. Finally had a good flash go on Blockhead dropping the 2nd crux move. Unfortunately next go messed up my sequence slightly and powered out at half height.

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Late report!

M: Works for a big long session focusing on steep, shouldery and crimpy problems with poor feet as I feel like that's an area I need to improve in. Followed it up with weighted pull-ups (4 sets of 4 with 23kgs added which is currently just over 130% of my bodyweight), and started to bench-press and squat for the first time! I'm not very good at it though lol. I can bench my own bodyweight for one rep, but I am going to focus on around 50-55kgs for five sets of five reps, get the form good.

Tuesday: knackered, rested

Wednesday: Indoor session. Pushed myself hard again, trying to focus on problems with slopey feet, compression, shoulders etc. Getting strong all that jazz. Benched and weighted pull-ups afterwards cos legs stilled caned from the bloody squats.

Thursday: Indoor session

Friday: Rest day

Saturday: went on the grit but fancied a break from the project as didn't feel too strong and just pottered around at Burbage South, practising repeats of low grade traverses, slabs etc. Nothing special. Just general technique training I guess. Then had a session indoors, again focusing on lower grade stuff, trying to climb things precisely and smoothly without mistakes.

Sunday: rest day

Overall feeling stronger at the moment and glad to be interspersing some strength training in with the sessions. Indoor climbing is fun and I am really enjoying being able to do it again, I could have more focused sessions but also fuck that it is a hobby/sport done for joy I'm not a pro and never will be. Starting to really get my sense of being able to try hard, I think that I've become a bit lazy with my climbing and not been really just gritting my teeth and trying fucking hard when a move stops me, and I think I am getting back into that and part of that is climbing with the crew more etc. Nice stuff!

 

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