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Power Club 580 19-25 April 2021 (Read 8867 times)

RobK

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Power Club 580 19-25 April 2021
April 25, 2021, 11:21:27 am
M - A load of stretching and some press ups and dips in the garden, lovely. Feeling a bit broken after continually doing deep left hand lock offs on Under the Bridge on Sunday, major DOMs all down my left hand side.

T - Ruabon for a bit of esoterica hunting. We wanted to try Flyboy 7b+, a stupidly steep (40 degrees ish) piece of old quarried sandstone. Needed a really good clean but what a fun piece of climbing. Campusing to start with and then every hold is an absolute bucket. Had a couple of RPs messing up in different ways and then my mate got it done. The pressure was then on with the light fading and knowing it would be hard to find another belay but I managed to hold it together. Nice to get a route tick under my belt this year. The Clwyd's version of Comedy!

W - Half a max hangs session at +31kg. All complete, nice to still be hitting the same scores after a brief hiatus from the fingerboard. Then an hour or so on the board, trying projects at first and making progress with one of them. Finished with trialling some foot on laddering on various holds as a form of upper end aerobic training. This seemed to work pretty well and I think will be a good tool in getting back into route shape over the next month or so.

T - Gorge with Ally. The plan was to try Under the Bridge for a bit and then take a look at one of the Grand Canyon extensions. Was getting frustratingly close to the tick though so just ended up bouldering the whole session. I couldn’t settle on a sequence after almost holding the jump move in a couple of different ways. Ended up finding a knee bar under the bulge to control the swing and just about held it together on what I thought was a pretty unsatisfying finish. Nice to get this closed off so I can actually focus on routes when I’m down at the Gorge now. The moves are decent but I thought the line was a bit crap. I also found it harder than Be Ruthless, from my (very) limited experience I reckon this might creep in at 7C with BR maybe high 7B+? Who knows.

F - Rest. Feeling very battered, left hand side DOMs like before and weirdly a sore right hamstring from a really intensive toe move yesterday.

S - LPT. One of my main aims this year is to get some good ticks down here after somehow barely climbing here before. Decided to have a look at Mussel Beach and had a couple of goes up. My first taste of the steep section here and it is so much better than the rest of the crag (i.e. less sharp!). Really enjoyed it and managed to get all the moves bar one on the lower crux which I skipped pretty quickly not feeling warmed up enough and one on the upper crux when I sandbagged myself by clipping the rope across the key hold. I’ll know for next time! Keen to put some more time into this.

S - A much needed rest. Probably some stretching later.

A good week mostly on rock with a couple of nice ticks. My whole body is feeling pretty broken now though so I think an easier week with lots of stretching/mobility/conditioning is in order. The DIP joint of my right middle finger was also giving some worrying twinges yesterday so I want to give that a chance to settle down.
« Last Edit: June 13, 2021, 10:16:46 am by duncan »

Duma

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#1 Re: Power Club 578 19-25 April 2021
April 25, 2021, 12:18:35 pm
M - Oh hurrah, another shit nights sleep. Nicely timed to ruin my days climbing and add an extra edge to tonight's nightshift. So in foul mood when I got up, but then down to Avon Gorge for Was It You, sun was shining and cheered up once I was on the wall. 4 times up, first TR to warm up, felt good, first lead go new high point but realised my reach when tired on rp left me just short on last hard move. Found a diff foothold for next go. Then next go came of a foot move three moves earlier. Reworked that bit and got better sequence. Last go did last hard move, and next move, but then too boxed to get feet up to go to good holds. Aarrrgh! Lucky it's such a good route or I'd start to get frustrated....
T - nothing, slept. Then nights.
W - am slept, eve TCA, started trying harder stuff for the first time since they reopened, went pretty well, the hard set from Dec was still up so could see how I was going and don't appear to have lost anything, even got up one I'd failed on before lockdown.
T - Brean, mostly there as belay bunny for gf (who did her mini project), but threw a lap on Pearl Harbour and reclimbed Tide Rising putting the clips in with the new post break sequence. It's still not 7c despite the ukc rumblings.
F - Ansteys! Fuck it's so good here. Dogged up Empire to warm up, then did it clean as despite being almost certain I did it twenty years ago, I hadn't recorded it in my logs from back then. Still brilliant. Then round the corner, with a sunny forecast I'd been concerned about how hot it would be, but the easterly and a bit of haze actually made for prime climbing conditions, although less prime for belaying... Was a bit scared to get back on Cider Soak as my knee still isn't 100% since tweaking it on the route last summer, so inspired by roz last week, opened account with future life tick Tuppence. Really pleased with first session, got all the moves, linked from jugs through middle boulder to initial (rh) throw of last boulder. Also linked hard move of first boulder to almost holding hard move of middle boulder. First boulder was significantly harder than expected, and big lh move at the end of last boulder will be brutal when tired, but middle boulder felt ok. Psyched!
S - Cheddar, Wave. As hot as you'd imagine. Lap of Minstrel to warm up, then got clips in and worked out moves on Utility Cock (7c+). Messed up last hard move of lower section next try, but went OK 3rd attempt. Not a classic by any stretch of the imagination, but decent pe workout and nice to get it done quick 4th day on.
S - rest. Week on South coast starting tomorrow, can't wait!

70 kg.

RobK

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#2 Re: Power Club 578 19-25 April 2021
April 25, 2021, 12:29:32 pm
Nice work with Tuppence, Duma. Sounds very positive! Looking forward to next week's south coast entry.

shark

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#3 Re: Power Club 578 19-25 April 2021
April 25, 2021, 02:42:29 pm
Thanks Rob

11.4-5 average 158.8lbs (up 0.5lbs)

M. AM Set of recruitment (arm) pulls (similar to assisted one armer but with feet on the ground). Malham for mid afternoon as sunny with Andrew. Had the crag to ourselves most of the time and not many tourists which felt spooky. Warmed up on Against the Grain and did it clean to my surprise as it felt like I was going to fall off last few moves. Put clips in Mescalito. First redpoint got to the same high point as Friday getting shut down reaching to the large undercut in the New Dawn bulge. Bit annoyed to fall at same place. Had a look for an alternative sequence and remembered an extra bridging move that took the sting out of the sequence. Next go almost fluffed it at 5th bolt when fingers slipped on pinch but managed to do the move anyway then had a massive fight with a lot of power screaming through the next dozen moves all the way to getting my right foot on the New Dawn ledge but was so spent I couldn’t hold the position to clip the bolt and peeled off. Dogged to top and stripped it. Pint at the Listers after.

T. Birthday - 57! Lunch set of recruitment pulls (pull ups) and speed pulls. PM Tor. Quiet again. Pottered on Bens but below par compared to last Tuesday. Gave Dom from Nottingham a belay. Went home and did a Max hangs session. Again below par scores. Must be my age.  :lol:

W.

T. 

F. AM FB set of recruitment pull (ups) and speed pulls. Malham for mid afternoon again with Andrew. Hot. Just us there. Started up Against the Grain but it was like I’d forgotten how to climb.  :shrug: Lowered off at the low lower off. Dogged up Mescalito feeling pretty rubbish. First go bit of redpoint nerves but climbed really well through bottom section and so able to rest and recover better by 4th bolt. Next section went well to New Dawn ledge and didn’t bother to clip extended draw. Got as much back as I could at the shake for 5/10 mins but not fully recovered for last bit. Did well on first few moves but quickly started to run out of steam clipping last bolt and only just did rock up above to catch edge. Managed to get into the awkward position to clip the belay and pulled up the rope but lost tension as about to clip and couldn’t reach the draw! went half the length of the crag ending up below the New Dawn bulge. Was shattered but had a long rest and another go falling off where it joins New Dawn when my hand slipped. Bolt to bolted to penultimate bolt then linked top wall in a oner including clipping the belay.

S.

S.


Enjoyed trying Mescalito over last two weeks feeling stamina coming back and making progress each time.  Disappointed but not angry as I’d climbed well and the belay is in a bad place and a total bastard to clip - plenty have fallen off here. Damn you Fawcett.

Off to Wales with Paul next week to try Statement!  :o

« Last Edit: April 25, 2021, 02:51:53 pm by shark »

Duma

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#4 Re: Power Club 578 19-25 April 2021
April 25, 2021, 02:52:45 pm
Cheers Rob, sounds like you had a good week too!

Happy Birthday Shark! And nice one on (almost) Mescalito, sounds like it's been a good process.

Wellsy

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#5 Re: Power Club 578 19-25 April 2021
April 25, 2021, 04:37:57 pm
2021 goals: Send a 7A on grit and a 7A on lime

Monday: Climbing Works for 2 hours, feeling a bit delicate with my finger but it seemed to be doing okay. Worked on a nice burly pinchy problem around 6C+ I think but couldn't stick the crux move. Didn't want to really fixate on it so did a quite couple of easier boulder circuits, footwork drills etc. Core workout at home.

Tuesday: Rested

Wednesday: Had a short board session, working on core tension, keeping the feet on, trying problems with wide shouldery moves to try and develop shoulder strength and stability.

Thursday: Works again, had a long session working on a quite tricky 7A with a compression move. Decided that I need train my strength for compression moves and have invested in a set of rings for the bar at home accordingly. Did a bit of core too.

Friday: Rest

Saturday: Went out to Burbage to try Breakfast again, made some slight progress and refined my beta for the lower section which means I can cruise through to the crux move pretty quickly and try that repeatedly. Crux still feels very hard but also feels like I am getting closer? Might need to experiment with trying to get the heel hook in before I do release the right for heel/toe cam, cos right now the release is just swinging me off. Felt like a good session, did some 5s and 6As to warm up, repeated Banana Finger after trying Breakfast and tried BF Direct but was getting a bit tired, would like to go back for it though.

Sunday: Had a short board session and will be going to the works for a light session focusing on footwork drills and being nice and precise with my climbing. Probably will end it with a shoulder workout and some core.

Will Hunt

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#6 Re: Power Club 578 19-25 April 2021
April 25, 2021, 07:59:10 pm
M - after work cycle for about an hour.

W - Ruin Bank developing with a team. Created a descent and dug the tops a bit, then cleaned lichen off about a quarter of what was on offer before the others arrived. The rest of the cleaning went rapidly with everyone pitching in - God's work. More to go at one evening next week. The hardest thing we did was a 6C in completely failed light using the onboard torch of a phone to try and figure out where the holds were. Might be steadier in the light. Dunny beat me to the first ascent. I will have my revenge.

F - Gordale. First time on the longer routes and was keen for Cave Right. Dave dogged up and I followed. Some of the sequences were tough - particularly in the top crack which is going to be an ugly place on redpoint. I actually got a bit wigged and lowered from below the top two bolts up the upper groove. Next go up tried to link a bit more but found I was powering out quickly on the harder sequences. A bit of a wake up call. Lowered from the end of the hard ground again, so haven't actually been up that last loose-looking groove. Apparently it's not too bad up there but will probably take the stick next time I go up just to familiarise myself with the terrain.

Su - Robin Proctor's sorting out topos for the guide. Got that done in an hour thanks to Harry being such a good sport and helping. Then 5 routes between 6b and 6c+.

Some days onsighting stuff in the high 6s might help with the fitness I need on these longer routes (upping and downing, hanging on and shaking out while you suss a sequence). Or maybe just bite the bullet and get stuck into Malham and Kilnsey and get it there.  :shrug:

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#7 Re: Power Club 578 19-25 April 2021
April 25, 2021, 08:04:51 pm
T - Ruabon for a bit of esoterica hunting. We wanted to try Flyboy 7b+, a stupidly steep (40 degrees ish) piece of old quarried sandstone. Needed a really good clean but what a fun piece of climbing. Campusing to start with and then every hold is an absolute bucket. Had a couple of RPs messing up in different ways and then my mate got it done. The pressure was then on with the light fading and knowing it would be hard to find another belay but I managed to hold it together. Nice to get a route tick under my belt this year. The Clwyd's version of Comedy!
Good hunting, and useful to know, always wondered what that was like, might have to see if I can persuade any daft sod to give it a look.

Wellsy if you want something that worked for me on Breakfast, try dragging the right toe along the rock rather than releasing it in one go.

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#8 Re: Power Club 578 19-25 April 2021
April 26, 2021, 12:51:10 am
M: Density pickups 20mm 40s LH 40lb *1, 45lb *3 RH 35lb *2, 40lb *2 HC.

T: Density pickups 20mm 40s LH 40lb *1, 45lb *3 RH 35lb *2, 40lb *2 HC.

W-T: In San Diego for work - first post (mid) pandemic business trip.

F: DBC. TA Max Hangs - 20 mm, 7s hangs up to +15lb. Bouldering for 1hr, did 10 M- boulders and two M! Pull-ups EMOM X6 *10mins, completed - up the count next time. Shoulder press X5, bicep curls X5 *3sets. Dips to finish

S: 4 mile hike near Vail

Bad couple of weeks exercise, eating and drinking wise...

gollum

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#9 Re: Power Club 578 19-25 April 2021
April 26, 2021, 06:48:57 am
W/C 19/4/21

M- Abs/core, pulls, Shipley, yoga and stretching, density hangs,
T - Compression and presses, abs, campus, Max Hangs, Kilter board, 30 minute cardio, yoga and stretching
W - Pulls, core, small edges, Depot reds, yoga and stretching, bit more abs, pinches
T - Abs, chest and compressions, Kilter board, campus board, walk, stretching and yoga, max pulls
F - Buckstones, ancillary muscles, yoga and stretching, abs, density hangs
S - Depot for fun, legs, stretching and yoga, abs
S - Abs, stretching and yoga for abs

Starting to drop into the new normality and routine.


M - Start off with standard 5 minute plank.  Follow it with 3 sets of front lever, hollow body and weighted hyperextensions. Finish abs with 50 roll outs.
At gym, start with muscle ups, Supported OAP and off set pulls. Then do some one arm locks abs scapular work. Finish with a few deadlifts for reps.
Go up to Shipley for the morning and have lots of fun doing easy volume. Don’t see a soul despite the top being packed with walkers. Do love the Glen.
5k on treadmill at the gym and definitely becoming easier. Stretching for calf and sciatic nerve after my run.
When I get home I do my yoga for hamstrings session and stretching for upper body.
Density hangs for 6x30 seconds, still shortening the rest.

T - Start with bench press for 3s up to 85. Move on to Prone Ts,Ys and Is on the rings for 3x8, followed by 3x20 seconds floor compression holds. Then spend a while trying to work out what support I need to be able to Iron Cross in the rings; a purple band is good, a black band is just too hard at the moment.
Do abs work of 3x3 minute planks and floor routine. A little later do 3x20 steady roll outs between sets on campus board.
Finger dominant campus board session for 10 sets. 3 pinch compressions god time; 10,10, 8 and Max Hangs on Lattice rung for 5 seconds times 6 reps, with 6k off on each set.
Go on the Kilter board and do well up to the 7Bs where things start to shut me down a bit, but get plenty of quick ticks up to that point. Solid session. 
30 minutes on bike in the gym. First time in a very long long time, but protects my ankles a bit.
Yoga for hips and flexibility for splits when I get home.

W - In the gym early. Start with  2 reps per set of weighted pulls, starting at bodyweight and adding 5k each set up to 55k. Then do weighted lock offs, off set pull ups, close grip pulls, negatives and scapular work.
Finish session with core, 5 minute plank, levers, weighted hollow bodies and hyperextensions.
Go to Pudsey for a social session. Whilst waving for team to arrive do my small edge session with 10 seconds EMOM for 6 sets. Also do upper body stretching as a warm up. Cracking session. Do all the new reds, flashing all but a couple of techs things. Tock one of remaining purples, which leaves just two undone to press.
30 minutes on the Wattbike for cardio.
Yoga for shoulders and more stretching, this time for pancake, both of which are coming along nicely.
80 steady roll outs later on.
Finish the day with pinches which are rock solid, matching all previous bests.

T - Abs to start the day at hone. 3x3 minute planks, floor routine and 50 rollouts.
Go to gym for compression and chest. Bench to start with reducing reps, increasing weight on each set. Then do supersets on rings of prone and supine Ts, Ys and Is for 3x8 each. Do 3x10 second strict iron cross with purple band support and then 3x15 Ring prone T holds.
Go to City Bloc and spend a good hour and a half on the Kilter Board, using lots of different angles. Same sort of success as Tuesday, regardless of angle, which is pleasing, in a way.
Campus session of steady ladders and some jump and catch for contact strength.
Go for a walk in the afternoon, just out in the sunshine. On to yoga for back and shoulder, which seem a little tight this e=week, but could well be related to the fact that I have gone back to reasonably heavy lifting again, which makes it doubly beneficial. Stretching is for splits.
Finish off the day with max pulls with the edge and Tindeq. Unsurprisingly, they are well off the mark.
Think the order of things today may not be efficient in the short term but playing around with it to test stuff out.

F - Nip up to Buckstone Edge in the morning for a quick hit of volume. Happy to be out in the sun, going up and down things and across other things.
Gym for shoulders, biceps, triceps and wrists. Dumbbell presses for 5x5 to get shoulders going, followed by lateral raises, front raises and reverse flies for all the parts of my shoulders. Concentration curls and goblet tricep presses followed by standing curls and tate presses. Wrist rolls and wrist curls. Some scapular work to finish strengthening exercises.
30 minutes cardio on the stair climber, glad I was listening to a good book.
Yoga at home for twists feet and hands. Stretching for upper body.
Density hangs for 6x30 seconds.

S - Good social session at Pudsey, reds, purples and yellows for fun. Good to see folk I’ve not seen in ages.
Gym is for legs with deadlifts, squats, pistol squats, bridges, squats on a box, leg presses and calf raises.
At home stretching for splits and yoga for hands.
25 hard rollouts.

S - Easy like Sunday morning. Easy rollouts, upper body stretching and yoga for abs.

Solid week, do need to be careful now that beer is back in that my weight is starting to creep up and don’t want to undone all the good efforts.

spidermonkey09

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#10 Re: Power Club 578 19-25 April 2021
April 26, 2021, 08:38:21 am
Managed to get into the awkward position to clip the belay and pulled up the rope but lost tension as about to clip and couldn’t reach the draw! went half the length of the crag ending up below the New Dawn bulge.


 :lol: Brilliant! Always wondered how far you'd go in that scenario. I came within a whisker of doing exactly the same thing. FWIW moving the belay was on my list last autumn but I ran out of time before it all got wet; it will get done this year but you'll have ticked it by then! Were you clipping off the crimp or the undercut in the overlap?

M - start of week off work. Went to Lakes and pottered up Corvus with girlfriend. The route was good but the walk in was spectacular; what a great valley. A few beers in Keswick afterwards.

T - Malham. Tried new foot beta for matching the horn which felt better. First go I matched the horn and fell rolling over to the horizontal pinch after only getting back 3 in the right hand tufa pocket. Decided to try and get 4 fingers in in future, even though its a bit of a squeeze, as I have to really pull on this hold on the link. Managed to do this next go and got into the top traverse. Felt way stronger than last time but made small foot error halfway along which cost me and I faded rapidly. A good session that saw me get higher again, although slightly annoying to make technical error when not totally knackered.

W - flat viewings. Good use of a rest day.

T - Lakes again, this time Troutdale Pinnacle. Plenty of others on the route as well despite being a weekday but went smoothly swinging leads. Did the neighbouring E1 Raindrop after; unbelievably good first pitch but an odd second pitch which didn't feel very balanced. Still a good route.

F - Gordale as it was hot. Went on Defcon. After a session on it back in 2019 where I got reasonably close in awful conditions I had vague ambitions of a quick tick. A rapid wake up call as it transpired that 10m power routes are appalling training for long stamina pitches; who would have thought it? Sorted the moves and had a few decent goes from the deck but felt pumped almost permanently. Felt broken afterwards.

S - Really nice walk around Hebden Bridge; some beers in the evening.

S - Malham. Waited until the afternoon, quite good conditions in the shade although no idea how the breeze was missing the crag. Numbed out moving up to top undercuts first go. Second go climbed it perfectly and thought I was in only to lose power matching the niche at the end of the traverse. Gutted as I had felt really strong- as I rolled my right hand into the niche I hit the quickdraw really hard which stopped the move in its tracks and I was off before I knew it. Third go was spent. Another high point though, and if I get any higher I would hope to take it to the top. Really enjoying the battle of getting slightly further along the traverse. Cooler conditions this week which might assist, although a few rest days needed first.

Good week off work. I had hoped to finish off the Oak but as is always the way with power endurance routes its the last few metres that take the longest!
« Last Edit: April 26, 2021, 09:03:06 am by spidermonkey09 »

RobK

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#11 Re: Power Club 578 19-25 April 2021
April 26, 2021, 08:52:02 am
Off to Wales with Paul next week to try Statement!  :o

You'll have the crag to yourself with the forecast temps!

might have to see if I can persuade any daft sod to give it a look.

A definite crux of the route, although quite mind-blowingly after no ticks on UKC since the FA in 2012 there have been 5 in the past month.

duncan

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#12 Re: Power Club 578 19-25 April 2021
April 26, 2021, 08:53:18 am
Happy Birthday Simon! Mescalito sounds like fun, well done for taking the lob and not grabbing the anchors.

M - Box steps for 30 mins. Ys and Ts. Walked 10km.
T - Portland with Bridbeast. Started at Godnor, 6 routes to 6b. Moved over to Blacknor, did Megs...  and caught up with friends. Super day, lovely to be by the sea.
W - Walked 10km. Felt battered and starving.
T - Deep squats. Box steps for 30 mins. Felt a bit out of sorts.
F - Easy Ys and Ts and a few pull-ups. Felt knackered.
S - Very short fingerboard session. Went for a walk but ran out of gas after 5km. Knackered.
S - Easy Ys and Ts and a few pull-ups. Walked 7km. Still tired.

Another lovely day by the sea but seem to have regressed a bit in the recovery from Covid. Or perhaps I’ve picked up a different bug. Wish I could push myself a bit more but don’t yet feel my battery is holding much charge.

Liamhutch89

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#13 Re: Power Club 578 19-25 April 2021
April 26, 2021, 09:53:02 am
Over the last week I've come to realise I'm in need of a long break from bouldering. Unfortunately not as a result of warming conditions, which i'm fairly unaffected by, but because my performance on rock is affecting me too much, and at this point the cost is greater than the return.

I've not exactly helped myself: by mostly just projecting stuff that's at or beyond my limit for the sake of climbing hard, rarely pulling onto things that are easier, generally climbing alone 99% of the time, and giving up other events/non-climbing opportunities to go out and try to do my project. Every time I go out I split several tips and this then impacts my training for the week, and the next time I go out I do worse as a result and split even more skin in the process.

I don't have a daily log, but in summary, this week was the final straw. I managed to drag myself up Archimedes at Norwood eventually, but at what cost? I did all the moves within 20 minutes of my first session and it's not power endurancy at all, but it then took 4 unenjoyable sessions to do it, each session leaving the wife at home to sort out the kids (creating some tension), desperately 'needing' to finish it before this good spell of weather ends, skin getting worse and worse and finally having no sense of achievement when I got to the top of it because 'I should have been able to do it on the first session anyway'. Right now i'm sat here with between 2 to 3 splits on every finger excluding my left pinky and can barely use my hands.

The plan going forwards is:
No outdoor bouldering until the end of the year.
Continue to train like a madman because I genuinely enjoy training at least as much as real climbing. I like the predictability of training and that I don't need to drive anywhere to do it. I also don't get affected in the same way by board projects as rock projects.
My only climbing friends do easy trad, so i'll join them sometimes, mostly for the social.
« Last Edit: April 26, 2021, 10:14:03 am by Liamhutch89 »

tommytwotone

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#14 Re: Power Club 578 19-25 April 2021
April 26, 2021, 10:33:10 am
Tough one balancing family and your own personal drive Liam, and one that's been done over and over here.

No idea how old your younguns are but (and I have two, 4 and 7 now), and I would say scaling back your effort / expectations and having a peaceful / harmonious home life is best in the long run.

Also, you'll appreciate the time you do get out, and probably get more out of it psychologically, even if you're not smashing your ticklist.

Which brings me on to..

Tues: LSD, attempt to get back in the game - did 50 problems, V0 - V3. Still had a bit in the tank weirdly, so did a few harder things but gassed out pretty quick

Thurs: LSD, went for effort over mileage - nearly flashed a V6, worked a V7 which I think might go, but dropped off the pace pretty fast

Sat: Kid free day (they went to their cousins to play in the garden) - decided to scope out Baildon after seeing Fiend's video - complete error. It was boiling, had been in the sun for ages.

Couldn't even pull on to Who Are We etc, all the Baildon Stem block was roasting, and an attempt at Suggy's Wall was a total fail, in the most part due to my being in a foul mood. Should have just gone to Shipley and enjoyed pottering up some 5s and 6s and stopped at the pub on the way home.

Sun: build a shed with my brother-in -law - proper workout






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#15 Re: Power Club 578 19-25 April 2021
April 26, 2021, 10:47:55 am
Glad you got it done Liam, that's great!

Not so great if you didn't enjoy it. If you're not having fun what on earth is the point?!

Although man I wish my latest project had only taken me 4 sessions  :lol: I guess that's the thing though, projecting isn't for everyone. I've spent 15 sessions in the last two months on mine, and can honestly say I enjoyed all but the very last of them (and I didn't even get it done!). If you don't enjoy it maybe you need to lower your expectations and focus on quick ticks, I bet there are absolutely loads of 7Bs you've not done locally!

Projecting alone can be especially tough, I find it really hard to quiet the negative internal voices when I'm on my own, although interestingly in hindsight there was no difference in my performance between when I was alone to being surrounded by people. My high point came when I'd been on my own all day.

not as a result of warming conditions, which i'm fairly unaffected by

Right now i'm sat here with between 2 to 3 splits on every finger excluding my left pinky and can barely use my hands.

Not so unaffected I'd say... :-\

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#16 Re: Power Club 578 19-25 April 2021
April 26, 2021, 10:49:11 am

 :lol: Brilliant! Always wondered how far you'd go in that scenario. I came within a whisker of doing exactly the same thing. FWIW moving the belay was on my list last autumn but I ran out of time before it all got wet; it will get done this year but you'll have ticked it by then! Were you clipping off the crimp or the undercut in the overlap?


Have a funky method - I get my LH on the rightmost crimp then get my RF in the groove and get a knee scum and bring my RH to a sidehold just below my knee.

If you replace the belay suggest you put it above the bulge so you can clip off the undercuts in the overlap but leave the original in place for people who want to do it as originally or for when the overlap is still wet.

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#17 Re: Power Club 578 19-25 April 2021
April 26, 2021, 10:55:29 am
M - Lunchtime - 20 mins of mx hangs at lunch, 8.5 km run in evening
T - Back to cubs, evening walk.
W - first MTB. Nice loop from in Fettersso Forest, trails bone dry right now. Ended prematurely with a bastard snapped derailler hanger and a long uphill push to get back to car. 18 km.
T - kettlebells evening
F - lunch run down to boltsheugh (5 mins at a run), met mate and had a quick play on a few probs.
S - Great weather for big hill day. Did Mayar and Dreish with the kids, their first 2 Munros,16km walk and about 900m of vert. They did brilliantly, very little complaining.
S - Bouldering morning - exploring below Rotter Rocks near Craig Stirling. Cracking weather, bit too warm to hang some holds, but sill did 8 or so new probs, and a couple to go back for. Lovely spot. Walk in Stonehaven in afernoon.

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#18 Re: Power Club 578 19-25 April 2021
April 26, 2021, 11:05:07 am
One possible option is seperating 'training' and outdoor performance. Have your board sessions etc. for trying hard and getting strong. Treat outdoors as mileage. Grade doesnt matter, easy trad/boulders/sport with fun people. I lost my psyche for seiging things a while back. I definitely dony climb as hard as perhaps I "should", but I do enjoy getting out, and only rarely have days like you mention. Have a few goes on something, if it doesnt feel good, or like it will go in a few goes, or if it rags your skin, move on to something else.




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#19 Re: Power Club 578 19-25 April 2021
April 26, 2021, 11:12:06 am

Continue to train like a madman because I genuinely enjoy training at least as much as real climbing. I like the predictability of training and that I don't need to drive anywhere to do it. I also don't get affected in the same way by board projects as rock projects.


Nibile?

Maybe step back from continually failing at your max, and get out and do some more enjoyable slightly easier stuff? Continually bangijng your head against projects is no fun for anyone. IMHO anyway. I have long term projects, but I don't spend every session on them until they are done, only when circumstance dictates.

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#20 Re: Power Club 578 19-25 April 2021
April 26, 2021, 11:23:26 am
I lost my psyche for seiging things a while back.

Until the Calf life took him.


Liam, I'd echo what dunny is saying. You don't need to knock outdoor climbing on the head entirely, but taking a step back from projecting/sieging every now and again might help you stay psyched. Doing a bit of mileage on easier problems can be really rewarding, not least because the climbing is often excellent. But also, there's less of a need to make the most of any perfect conditions day (meaning you can make more time for family and your skin).

I also think you'd get a huge amount out of it that you could bring to your sieging whenever it might be that you want to do it again. This might be out of turn (but I think you've mentioned it yourself before), but there's a disparity between how long it takes you to do stuff outdoors and your fingerboard scores. You seem to be really really strong at the grade. Spending a bit of time honing technique and knack doing easier problems in a handful of goes, while still climbing on your board, will probably mean you can get a lot more out of your body than you currently do.

I don't know if you've done these things, but once your skin is healed then try Earl and Widdop. Both good bouldering circuits for warm days. Just make sure you don't go near the low 7s at Earl as there are a lot of spanking sandbags in there. Pool Traverse, Splashdown, Trickster, the Pickpocket's problems, Horror Arete on the way home. All dead good.

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#21 Re: Power Club 578 19-25 April 2021
April 26, 2021, 11:27:58 am
Happy Birthday Simon! Mescalito sounds like fun, well done for taking the lob and not grabbing the anchors.

Cheers Duncan.
Even grabbing the belay is not trivial as it is way over to the left and there is fuck all for your feet as you swing across.

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#22 Re: Power Club 578 19-25 April 2021
April 26, 2021, 11:32:37 am

Power Club
Mon - PE low 30/5 x6 just barely. Bar work, weights. High pulls + thigh scrapes 60 kg 5x3. Tired.
Tue - rest.
Wed - PE high (circuit), 2 goes: start-21-top, start-22-top, 1' rest after falling. Weights.
Thu - PE low 30/10 x6, 1/45 x3, absolutely at the limit. Forearms still very tired from previous day. Weights: hypers, cleans, bentover row, behind back shrugs. Tired.
Fri - upper back.
Sat - pecs, pull over, tricep extensions, one arm plank rows, hill sprints.
Sun - upper back, snatch pulls, loaded carries with wheel.

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#23 Re: Power Club 578 19-25 April 2021
April 26, 2021, 11:54:53 am
Tough one balancing family and your own personal drive Liam, and one that's been done over and over here.

No idea how old your younguns are but (and I have two, 4 and 7 now), and I would say scaling back your effort / expectations and having a peaceful / harmonious home life is best in the long run.

Also, you'll appreciate the time you do get out, and probably get more out of it psychologically, even if you're not smashing your ticklist.

Which brings me on to..

Tues: LSD, attempt to get back in the game - did 50 problems, V0 - V3. Still had a bit in the tank weirdly, so did a few harder things but gassed out pretty quick

Thurs: LSD, went for effort over mileage - nearly flashed a V6, worked a V7 which I think might go, but dropped off the pace pretty fast

Sat: Kid free day (they went to their cousins to play in the garden) - decided to scope out Baildon after seeing Fiend's video - complete error. It was boiling, had been in the sun for ages.

Couldn't even pull on to Who Are We etc, all the Baildon Stem block was roasting, and an attempt at Suggy's Wall was a total fail, in the most part due to my being in a foul mood. Should have just gone to Shipley and enjoyed pottering up some 5s and 6s and stopped at the pub on the way home.

Sun: build a shed with my brother-in -law - proper workout



Mine are 5 and almost 2 now! Thanks for the advice, good job I enjoy training and staying at home more is not a problem for me! Regarding Who Are We, the pull on was the stiffest part for me so you might not want to write it off completely.

Glad you got it done Liam, that's great!

Not so great if you didn't enjoy it. If you're not having fun what on earth is the point?!

Although man I wish my latest project had only taken me 4 sessions  :lol: I guess that's the thing though, projecting isn't for everyone. I've spent 15 sessions in the last two months on mine, and can honestly say I enjoyed all but the very last of them (and I didn't even get it done!). If you don't enjoy it maybe you need to lower your expectations and focus on quick ticks, I bet there are absolutely loads of 7Bs you've not done locally!

Projecting alone can be especially tough, I find it really hard to quiet the negative internal voices when I'm on my own, although interestingly in hindsight there was no difference in my performance between when I was alone to being surrounded by people. My high point came when I'd been on my own all day.

not as a result of warming conditions, which i'm fairly unaffected by

Right now i'm sat here with between 2 to 3 splits on every finger excluding my left pinky and can barely use my hands.

Not so unaffected I'd say... :-\

I've quite enjoyed sieging in the past. My first was the Keel, which took nearly 10 sessions. At the time I wasn't strong enough and skipped 7B+ to do it (unless you consider the keel 7B+...  :worms:). At times it was frustrating but I was climbing above where I should have been so I almost expected failure and overall it never really got to me. I think I could enjoy the process of projecting a hard boulder again in future if I find something that's not especially bad on skin, and possibly something that's basic strength/pulling, so that it's more a case of being strong/fit enough with less of a luck element. I still need a long break before I go back to this though

As for my comment on being relatively unaffected by conditions, I've climbed more grit 7C's in July and August than the other months combined! I'm sure this is partly due to chance and the temperature likely does make my skin even worse but I can't think of a single outdoor bouldering session where i've not split skin! My climbing weight (by the time i'm clothed, fed and watered) is usually approaching 90kg and I have a tendency to drag holds, so it's no wonder I go through it like butter.

One possible option is seperating 'training' and outdoor performance. Have your board sessions etc. for trying hard and getting strong. Treat outdoors as mileage. Grade doesnt matter, easy trad/boulders/sport with fun people. I lost my psyche for seiging things a while back. I definitely dony climb as hard as perhaps I "should", but I do enjoy getting out, and only rarely have days like you mention. Have a few goes on something, if it doesnt feel good, or like it will go in a few goes, or if it rags your skin, move on to something else.


Yeah, this is precisely my plan for now!

I lost my psyche for seiging things a while back.

Until the Calf life took him.


Liam, I'd echo what dunny is saying. You don't need to knock outdoor climbing on the head entirely, but taking a step back from projecting/sieging every now and again might help you stay psyched. Doing a bit of mileage on easier problems can be really rewarding, not least because the climbing is often excellent. But also, there's less of a need to make the most of any perfect conditions day (meaning you can make more time for family and your skin).

I also think you'd get a huge amount out of it that you could bring to your sieging whenever it might be that you want to do it again. This might be out of turn (but I think you've mentioned it yourself before), but there's a disparity between how long it takes you to do stuff outdoors and your fingerboard scores. You seem to be really really strong at the grade. Spending a bit of time honing technique and knack doing easier problems in a handful of goes, while still climbing on your board, will probably mean you can get a lot more out of your body than you currently do.

I don't know if you've done these things, but once your skin is healed then try Earl and Widdop. Both good bouldering circuits for warm days. Just make sure you don't go near the low 7s at Earl as there are a lot of spanking sandbags in there. Pool Traverse, Splashdown, Trickster, the Pickpocket's problems, Horror Arete on the way home. All dead good.

Noted on lower grade circuits, I think you're right.

Regarding strength scores/performance, it's actually the other way round - for fingers at least! Whilst my general body strength is way way over where it needs to be, my finger strength is considerably lower as i've not really been climbing that long. If you believe Lattice benchmarking scores my fingers put me at a max of 7B ish. I expect their results are skewed towards the strong but i'm still often finger strength limited. A focus on training now might help this as I should be able to train better feeling fresh and with better skin. My intention is to do almost all my training on the board with individual days focusing on either fingers/movement/pulling/tension/etc.


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#24 Re: Power Club 578 19-25 April 2021
April 26, 2021, 11:59:07 am
What does one need to do a Lattice test? I bet I'd come out as the weakest climber to have ever lived.

 

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