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Shoes for slopey edges (Read 4072 times)

Liamhutch89

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Shoes for slopey edges
April 20, 2021, 12:41:06 pm
Not smears, not edges, but somewhere inbetween (smedging?)

More specifically, dynamic moves on vertical or slightly overhanging terrain, where a hand hold is caught at full reach and the slopey foot can't pop. Instead of just being better at climbing, please recommend ways I can attempt to buy my way out of this problem.

Despite being heavy, I usually choose to wear a downturned asymmetric shoe that's one step away from a rubber sock (Dragos, Futuras and the like). My one foray into something stiffer was a pair of Anasazi laces, and they felt like clogs. Do I need to embrace the stiffness and learn to climb in something stiffer? I have tried on Instincts and these fit me well, would these do the trick?

jwi

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#1 Re: Shoes for slopey edges
April 20, 2021, 01:40:16 pm
Wouldn't the natural compromise be to get something in between? Shoes that are made for indoor lead comps, like La Sportiva Skwarma or whatever?

mrjonathanr

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#2 Re: Shoes for slopey edges
April 20, 2021, 02:02:34 pm
If you wear the Dragos, what about the stiff version with its powerful toe section, Chimera? There’s a few a decent prices currently https://www.ekosport.co.uk/scarpa-chimera-yellow-20-p-V00298804.html?lgw_code=9661-V00298804&gclid=Cj0KCQjw9_mDBhCGARIsAN3PaFPIOsNwnpc02nxvbUm2f4ETGS-x9OIeny-AflEWcfzK0Q_IfyHXkyEaAnJ4EALw_wcB

tomtom

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#3 Re: Shoes for slopey edges
April 20, 2021, 02:12:42 pm
Instinct VSR? A bit downturned but softer rubber for the slopey edges?

They're alot of peoples favourites....

mrjonathanr

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#4 Re: Shoes for slopey edges
April 20, 2021, 02:43:59 pm
I resoled my VSRs and then bought some Chimeras. Now I am wondering what I am going to use the VSR for, apart from really edgy stuff.

SA Chris

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#5 Re: Shoes for slopey edges
April 20, 2021, 02:46:01 pm
You're so edgy.

tomtom

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#6 Re: Shoes for slopey edges
April 20, 2021, 02:59:27 pm
slick answer Chris.

Yossarian

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#7 Re: Shoes for slopey edges
April 20, 2021, 04:06:04 pm
I’m pretty heavy and was quite happy with Solutions and Instinct Laces, but decided to get some VSRs for Font last summer and I love them, especially for what you’re describing.

SA Chris

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#8 Re: Shoes for slopey edges
April 20, 2021, 04:55:45 pm
I'm definitely on the heavy side and like Solutions too as an edge / smedge shoe, might try the comp next time though.

Bradders

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#9 Re: Shoes for slopey edges
April 20, 2021, 05:01:12 pm
I resoled my VSRs and then bought some Chimeras. Now I am wondering what I am going to use the VSR for, apart from really edgy stuff.

I really like the Chimera. Feels like perfect balance between soft, sensitive rubber and support. Great for grit and sandstone.

I'm definitely on the heavy side and like Solutions too as an edge / smedge shoe, might try the comp next time though.

I have a pair of Solution Comps bought about 6 months ago and just be aware they end up a fair bit softer than the normal ones, which is really frustrating as the heel is so much better for me. You end up with remarkably little support through your foot as a result which makes standing on a small edge with a fair amount of bodyweight quite hard. Great for steeper stuff and really smeary feet.

SA Chris

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#10 Re: Shoes for slopey edges
April 20, 2021, 05:27:11 pm
OK, might get them as an "as well as" rather than "instead of". n+1.

MischaHY

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#11 Re: Shoes for slopey edges
April 21, 2021, 09:01:01 am
Skwama is my shoe for what you're describing. It's great at sticking on slippy edgy stuff. It's important to downsize a fair bit to begin with or it'll end up floppy after a couple of months. I go down 3.5 sizes. Hope this helps!

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MischaHY

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#13 Re: Shoes for slopey edges
April 21, 2021, 01:24:18 pm
I go down 3.5 sizes.

 :blink:

Actually 3 sizes, now that I think about it. That's for pretty much all Sportiva shoes actually! Solution, Miura VS, Kataki...

Duma

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#15 Re: Shoes for slopey edges
May 03, 2021, 03:37:56 pm

I have a pair of Solution Comps bought about 6 months ago and just be aware they end up a fair bit softer than the normal ones, which is really frustrating as the heel is so much better for me. You end up with remarkably little support through your foot as a result which makes standing on a small edge with a fair amount of bodyweight quite hard. Great for steeper stuff and really smeary feet.

I'm pushing the button shortly, size wise how do they stack against the standard Solution?

moose

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#16 Re: Shoes for slopey edges
May 03, 2021, 05:03:15 pm
I go down 3.5 sizes.

 :blink:

Actually 3 sizes, now that I think about it. That's for pretty much all Sportiva shoes actually! Solution, Miura VS, Kataki...

Same(ish).  I'm a street shoe 46; a 43 in Miuras, Miura VS, Kataki (basically all velcro and lace-ups); and a 42.5 in Pythons, Venoms, Futuras (all the slippers).  I'm currently wearing 42.5 Solutions - they're perfect now but in retrospect I probably should have chosen 43s - it took prolonged agony to get them wearable and I now feel too old and sensible for that kinda shit.   

Bradders

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#17 Re: Shoes for slopey edges
May 03, 2021, 06:44:24 pm

I have a pair of Solution Comps bought about 6 months ago and just be aware they end up a fair bit softer than the normal ones, which is really frustrating as the heel is so much better for me. You end up with remarkably little support through your foot as a result which makes standing on a small edge with a fair amount of bodyweight quite hard. Great for steeper stuff and really smeary feet.

I'm pushing the button shortly, size wise how do they stack against the standard Solution?

Slightly tricky to say as I haven't had a pair of normal for 4 years or so, but roughly the same. Pretty sure I was an 8 in normal and I've a pair of size 8.5 comps atm that are my current go to comfy board shoes.

SA Chris

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#18 Re: Shoes for slopey edges
May 03, 2021, 09:55:48 pm
My only choice is buying online so I might go for half size either way from solution. Cheers

sdm

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#19 Re: Shoes for slopey edges
May 06, 2021, 08:55:43 am
If you wear the Dragos, what about the stiff version with its powerful toe section, Chimera? There’s a few a decent prices currently https://www.ekosport.co.uk/scarpa-chimera-yellow-20-p-V00298804.html?lgw_code=9661-V00298804&gclid=Cj0KCQjw9_mDBhCGARIsAN3PaFPIOsNwnpc02nxvbUm2f4ETGS-x9OIeny-AflEWcfzK0Q_IfyHXkyEaAnJ4EALw_wcB

Have you (or anyone else) bought anything from Ekosport since brexit? If so, did you have to pay any customs charges?

mrjonathanr

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#20 Re: Shoes for slopey edges
May 06, 2021, 06:57:31 pm
No sorry, got them from GoOutwhatnot when they had a sale (+ my MTA discount). They do promise to beat any other sale by 10% so long as it is exactly the same item (size and colour etc) so you might get a bargain if that covers European competitors too.

 

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