UKBouldering.com

Forearm pain when releasing holds (Read 1751 times)

twoshoes

Offline
  • *
  • regular
  • Posts: 71
  • Karma: +2/-0
Forearm pain when releasing holds
March 27, 2021, 07:16:58 pm
As part of my ongoing exploration into new and interesting injuries, I've done something to my forearm. Every time I release a hold that I've either dragged or open handed, I get a short, sharp pain 'inside' my forearm, about 3 inches back from the wrist. If I crimp, half crimp, hold a sloper, nothing, no pain. Open, I can pull as hard as like and it won't hurt, until I release the hold, when it hurts like hell for a split second.

It's been going on since August. Resting hasn't helped. Stretching makes it worse if anything. Massage does naff all.

If anyone has any idea what I've done, or even better, how to get rid of it, I'd be really grateful to hear it.

Thanks!

mrjonathanr

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 5400
  • Karma: +246/-6
  • Getting fatter, not fitter.
#1 Re: Forearm pain when releasing holds
March 27, 2021, 08:13:10 pm
No idea, sorry.  Stretching and rest generally irritate and decondition tendons so won’t help if that’s the structure you’ve hurt. They seem to like heavy, slow, progressive loading though.  Have a listen to podcasts by Jill Cook and Pete Malliaras if you want to learn about tendons. Or see a physio?

twoshoes

Offline
  • *
  • regular
  • Posts: 71
  • Karma: +2/-0
#2 Re: Forearm pain when releasing holds
March 29, 2021, 08:30:01 pm
Thanks for the advice. Will do some googling for the podcasts. I've been trying various exercises and haven't totally rested as such as I have a fairly physical job (which probably isn't helping...).

Plan is to see a physio in a few weeks (corona etc).

Cheers again.

JJP

Offline
  • **
  • addict
  • Posts: 117
  • Karma: +2/-0
#3 Re: Forearm pain when releasing holds
April 02, 2021, 08:50:51 pm
Hey twoshoes

Not exactly sure from your description but is it when using grip types where the pinky is dropped?  I have previously had pain in similar position (kind of where the muscle becomes tendon, pinky side of forearm) when using middle 2 or 3 finger drag.  Was fine on all other grip types.  Seems my problem related to having my pinky very flexed relative to the ring finger.  People like Neil Gresham advocate nestling the pinky next to the ring finger when training open grip types with pinky dropped - there is a video where he goes through it on instagram somewhere.  However, not sure that is actually what you are describing and my pain was when engaged as well as when letting go.

Training those grip types with my pinky less flexed has slowly got rid of my issue although it did take a bit of getting used to.

 

SimplePortal 2.3.7 © 2008-2024, SimplePortal