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Improving lock-off strength (Read 2753 times)

Wellsy

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Improving lock-off strength
April 19, 2021, 10:41:20 pm
Hello everyone

One thing that I wish I was better at was lock-off strength. Now I have been basically doing hangs from the pull-up bar with elbows at 90, elbows at 125 and also at full pull-up chin over bar and trying to hold those positions for as long as possible (usually three sets of 45 seconds) however I feel like this is training I am doing more because, well, that sort of seems right (after all I'm locking off and holding it right) but it occurs to me that it might not be the most productive method. So what other methods do people use? And have they been successful?

Also I am guessing that in terms of supplementing lock-off strength, stuff like core strength is key for making the best of crap footholds on overhangs etc? Has anyone else found strength in other areas to benefit lock-offs? Answers on a postcard plz.

Liamhutch89

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#1 Re: Improving lock-off strength
April 19, 2021, 11:45:51 pm
45 seconds holds will do little for gaining more maximum strength and I can't think of any time where you'd need 45 seconds of lock off endurance!

Whilst there's definitely technique involved and a million things your feet could be doing to help depending on the specific problem/route, I do think general pulling strength will always partly determine your ceiling in terms of lock-off strength. For this, dynamic exercises (e.g. pullups, rows) are usually much better for strength and hypertrophy gains than static exercises (e.g. lock offs). Lock off strength will increase as a free gain.

In addition to increasing general pulling strength, two specific exercises which have helped me for specific types of lock offs are:

Slow muscle up transitions on rings or bar (harder) - I like to slowly rep the transition between the top of the pull up position and the bottom of the dip position to develop that extremely deep lock strength which feels like that last push you do when locking off deep and reaching for a hold beyond full reach. I've noticed a direct link between my performance on this exercise and ability to do a specific deep lock move on my board.

Face pulls with perfect form (taking the shoulder through maximum external rotation) - can be done with rings/TRX from a standing position and the difficulty is modified depending on lean angle / ring height and how off centre your feet are. It can also be done laying face down on a bench using light weights in each hand. I think this exercise benefits gaston type lock offs and also has the secondary benefit of helping bulletproof your shoulders.

I've also noticed that full crimp nearly always feels like the best grip position for me when locking off and is worth considering.

Edit: i'm just a training junkie and others will likely give more useful tips based on technique that will have a larger benefit.
« Last Edit: April 19, 2021, 11:52:51 pm by Liamhutch89 »

Dexter

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#2 Re: Improving lock-off strength
April 20, 2021, 08:51:57 am
I think a lot of lock off strength in climbing is limited by shoulders (see this ) particularly on steeper ground. Also rather than doing longer hangs can you make them more difficult either by increasing weight or doing more one arm focused lock offs (with assistance if needed).

tomtom

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#3 Re: Improving lock-off strength
April 20, 2021, 08:58:57 am
I got to the point of being able to “lock off” (at about 110 degrees) last year. I did this by using assist (therabands at first then a pulley) to gradually (over about 5-6 months) get down to zero.

A lot of the first few weeks were focused on getting form right (engaged shoulder) and stabilising any twist/spin.

I still train them - and am not much better weight wise - but the stability and control is miles better.

I notice the gains especially on steep board problems - where you may catch a hold and feet fly off and often I can now maintain a bent (engaged) arm and control the move.

Nibile

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#4 Re: Improving lock-off strength
April 20, 2021, 11:25:25 am
IIRC, this issue has been discussed before.
In my opinion isolating lock off training is not going to pay dividends. It's a full body thing.
You can lock off on a bar for as long as you want, but when climbing you have to deal with your whole body to stay on ze rock, otherwise you'll either spin (flag, barndoor) or cut loose or perform other deplorable displays of weakness.

Wellsy

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#5 Re: Improving lock-off strength
April 20, 2021, 01:00:48 pm
So what you are saying is train less and climb more? Brilliant no further questions :D

So basically it's a development that will come from general fitness more? That makes sense. Honestly I should do more of that. But I do find with climbing 3-4 sessions a week that I struggle to get good quality strength training and rest days in too. But I think that tbh if I continue with weighted pull-ups and wide-grip pull-ups that should be good for now.

Nibile

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#6 Re: Improving lock-off strength
April 20, 2021, 02:15:51 pm
So what you are saying is train less and climb more?
You don't know me very well, don't you...
 :lol:
Jokes apart, I'm saying that you should team isolation training with full body training. So, for instance, practicing lock offs on a steep wall with various footholds and positions, concentrating on not cutting loose. It's a big posterior chain work.

Dexter

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#7 Re: Improving lock-off strength
April 20, 2021, 02:16:19 pm
Out of interest what do you normally do on your normal climbing sessions?
You can have one session a week where you focus on problems that target specific weaknesses i.e. locking off, steep climbing, and poor footholds.
This will be a lot more beneficial than if you spend each session trying a bunch of different problems every session as you may then tend to avoid certain types of climbing (the ones you struggle with)

Wellsy

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#8 Re: Improving lock-off strength
April 20, 2021, 02:29:42 pm
Usually I tend to turn up, climb some easy stuff to warm up, do some stuff that is slightly harder to get myself focused, then focus on doing harder problems and moves, mostly ones that right now I can't do (so like, if I go to the Works, I'll maybe spend an hour working on something in the Red Circuit or move that I am struggling with and try variations to make progress). Once I get to the point where I am knackered (so usually after a couple of hours) I wind down on some lighter stuff and do a few cool down easy problems, then have a protein shake and head off :D

I should vary my efforts more tbh. I tend to avoid slabs just cos I don't really like them. I can do them, and I don't really think I am any worse on slabs than anything else, but I do think that I avoid them. But in terms of other problems I like to mix things up. Pinches, crimps, slopers, heel hooks, I like to try and get a variety in.

My training is mostly just going climbing. I had never really done training of any kind before I started climbing, wasn't particularly sporty or anything. But I have found that just going climbing 3-4 times a week has done me well so far, though the returns are diminishing so that combined with lockdown has resulted in me doing a bit of strength training, core, weighted pull-ups, weighted press-ups etc to try to keep progress up.

Nibile

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#9 Re: Improving lock-off strength
April 20, 2021, 02:59:26 pm
I think that it's useful to distinguish between climbing and training. Trying stuff is more climbing than training, because the aim is to get to the top, regardless of cutting loose, climbing badly, etc.
Training focuses on perfect execution and form towards a specific aim. For instance, climbing a certain problem in a certain way: static, or front-on, or with one foot only, etc.
For your aim, system training is excellent.

Wellsy

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#10 Re: Improving lock-off strength
April 20, 2021, 05:27:40 pm
The whole thing of like, training/climbing is something I have always been advised to come down on the climbing side of due to not climbing for very long, but I think that will change soon if not right now and I will need to be structuring my indoor sessions around training specific things and developing my strength in specific ways.

But yeah, thanks. Good advice. Much appreciated everyone!

Nibile

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#11 Re: Improving lock-off strength
April 20, 2021, 07:16:54 pm
Don't forget that you should still have fun.
This message will self destruct in five seconds.

Wellsy

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#12 Re: Improving lock-off strength
April 21, 2021, 11:08:14 am
I've heard of "fun" sounds like something they do down south tbh

 

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