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Power Club 579 12-18 April 2021 (Read 3086 times)

shark

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Power Club 579 12-18 April 2021
April 18, 2021, 12:06:16 pm
11.3-4 Average 158.3 (down 0.5lbs)

M. AM FB Set of recruitment and speed pulls. Malham for mid afternoon. Climbed with Paul. TR on Taking the Space. Dogged up Mescalito. Was crap on the lower moves. 3 redpoints. First go slipped off foothold at end of hard initial section by second bolt. Second go got cold fingers and fell off on hard gaston move past 4th bolt. Third go fell off on long reach for rounded slot pocket by 5th bolt then dogged to the top and Paul stripped on TR. Home by 10.30pm

T. Lunch FB set of recruitment and speed pulls. Mid afternoon Tor. Lovely day - sunny but 9 degrees and fresh.Had crag virtually to myself for most of session. Bliss. Good natter with Pat at end. Felt surprisingly fresh. 3  decent links of the hardest section - throw to almost doing cross through tickling pinch each time. 4th go got to kick and connected with niche before coming off. Decided to have a look at Crag X and reacquaint with Jericho Road. Darren and Chesterfield Kev there. Had a few goes on JR and felt strong getting higher each time. Buster and Andy Burgess turned up and Buster muffed JR which gave me an absurd competitive spurt and I rinsed  it.  ;D Never felt so strong on it! Buzzing. Couple of goes on Moff and felt good on it but felt I was fading so headed home. Sublime sunset. More days like this please.

W.

T.

F. AM Set of recruitment (arm) pulls (similar to assisted one armer but with feet on the ground). Malham for midday. Not as cloudy as forecast so had to hang around a couple of hours for sun to go off. Followed Yosemite Wall to warm up. Took a fall. Felt good putting the draws in Mescalito. Good first redpoint getting a further bolt and five moves higher than Monday before getting totally shut down - just needed to bounce my left foot higher and couldn’t do it. Put a lot into that go and was spent after. Another go 90 minutes later and despite being tired got one move higher than Mondays high point. Paul stripped it demonstrating his massively higher level of endurance by almost flashing it. Did a few hangs and french pull-ups to finish

S Bristol and back

S.

Fab weather and much more life affirming week. No current desire to jump back on to the Oak. Keen to finish off Mescalito this time round and so come away from it with a half decent endurance base. Been sticking at the stretching on rest days. Back to Malham tomorrow for more Mescalito action.
« Last Edit: June 13, 2021, 10:16:23 am by duncan »

Duma

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#1 Re: Power Club 578 12-18 April 2021
April 18, 2021, 12:33:16 pm
Sounds like a great Tuesday shark, nice work on JR.

Wood FT

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#2 Re: Power Club 578 12-18 April 2021
April 18, 2021, 12:34:31 pm
Fab weather and much more life affirming week. No current desire to jump back on to the Oak. Keen to finish off Mescalito this time round and so come away from it with a half decent endurance base. Been sticking at the stretching on rest days. Back to Malham tomorrow for more Mescalito action.

Keep at it, you looked like someone having a great day at the crag on Friday. Good luck with tomorrow.

shark

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#3 Re: Power Club 578 12-18 April 2021
April 18, 2021, 03:04:27 pm
Thanks both. Fun and a bit of success. Rest assured I’ll soon put a stop to that sort of nonsense.

Duma

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#4 Re: Power Club 578 12-18 April 2021
April 18, 2021, 03:27:59 pm
M - slept really badly sun night, then 12 hr shift. Eve TCA, but knackered really so mostly just moderate stuff.
T - slept badly again, another 12 hr shift. Straight to bed after.
W - TCA with daughter, easyish volume, fun session.
T - nothing, hour and a half walk but don't think that counts. Had free afternoon but too tired to do anything.
F - bit of a swim at Clevedon marine lake. Brutally cold, but the girls had fun.
S - lunch, board, 90min. Psyched from watching the WC, did latest project, and managed a repeat of one I did last summer which has eluded me since. Faded quickly afterwards though.
S - nothing, had a couple of free hours while daughter in the park but no psyche or energy.

70 kg.

Shit week apart from Sat on the board, hopefully mostly just sleep patterns still messed up from last week's night shifts. More nights tomorrow though...

Will Hunt

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#5 Re: Power Club 578 12-18 April 2021
April 18, 2021, 07:33:33 pm
M - went for a sniff round Ruin Bank Woods and found quite a lot of new rock. Only a bit of it passes the quality:effort of cleaning ratio. Went to find Diamond Arete which was very good. Also added a sit start off the block at 6C+ which wasn't described.

T - after work Ruin Bank again to belay Sam on Shangri-La. Warmed up by cleaning up the right arete of the Diamond Arete which turned into a nice 6A and a godawful, dabby 7A from sit. Sam declined a flash go on the route after a tickle at the crux. He quickly headpointed and I seconded in the twilight.

F - Ruin Bank scrub sesh.

Sa - Earl Crag for another go at Desert Island Arete. Warmed up on some steady boulders, then Sour Grapes (pleasant E3 micro route). Moved over to Desert Island Arete. I'd managed to convince myself that the top crux wasn't as run out from the gear as I remembered - this idea was quickly dashed. Put a rope down it and went up to the top crux. This starts with a little 6a sequence to leave the gear and get established on a set of crimps on the wall. You then do a 6b move to sanctuary. Step high and lock the crimps down until the fingers of your right hand are uncurling and straightening out. As you do this you move your left hand up to a frictionless, horrible intermediate crimp. When you're just about to peel off you whirl your left hand up to catch a horn jug on the lip of the next break. First go I dry fired off the intermediate which was a blow. I'd hoped to get the move dialled and static. The fall isn't dangerous but you'd probably stop somewhere below the top of the first boulder problem. Tried a few more variations on the beta but never managed to get it any more static or secure - it always ended in a lash for the jug.
Was suitably scared of taking the whipper but also knew that I was unlikely to get too scared in the moment - if you're going to fall off it it'll be because you dry fire off the horrible intermediate or come up short on the big hold and it'll happen in a moment. Decided to just crack on so lowered down, tied on as quickly as I could, and set off without thinking about it. First two cruxes (the second gets no press but is quite goey - two finger crimp on a pebble, stand as high as you can and then pop to catch a jug). A quick breather in the rest below the top section and then dispatched. Phew! First non highball E6. A dirty headpoint just to piss off Fiend. Ben led us up the majestic Earl Crack to finish off.

Su - swimming with the kids, park time, beer garden.

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#6 Re: Power Club 578 12-18 April 2021
April 18, 2021, 08:11:26 pm
Sounds like a good week, Shark! Will - good effort with Desert Island. That sort of stuff is so far out of my repertoire I get sweaty hands just reading about it.

M - Rest.

T - Rest. 17 miles on the bike scoping out houses.

W - Back to Bickerton with a couple of mates. More progress on Ramp Up but no tick. Got set up and had a slap for the top this time, probably a couple of inches short. Had a play on some other stuff including a traverse which was worryingly pumpy and a pockety 7B which would be worth some more goes. Good to have Ally there to burn me off.

T - Rest. Evening stretching in front of the football.

F - Starting this financial year I have dropped down to 90% at work so I now get every other Friday off. This was the first one, so got out to the mountains with a friend. Ended up at Milestone Boulders. Warmed up on Pit Start 6C and then got to work on Harvey Oswald 7A+ which was the goal for the day. Harder than I expected but so good when I latched the top. Finished by doing Jez’s Arete 6C and then having a go at the sit start (7B+). Got quite close but no cigar. A tough day on the skin.

S - Rest. Walk up and around Moel Famau with the girlfriend. Skin an absolute warzone.

S - Was contemplating a rematch with Baby Buddha but not sure my skin would have handled it. Ended up down Devil’s Gorge after a lazy start with a good group. Spent most of the time trying Under the Bridge 7B+. Very good, got close, hopefully I’ll get it next session. Finished with a lap of Broccoli & Ice Cream 7b with one short rest. Pumpy but fitness is not quite as bad as I was fearing I don’t think.

A week with no training for the first time in a while. This often happens when the weather picks up, not sure if it’s a good thing or if I should try and keep some sort of balance. My skin certainly suffered as a result. Also a week with lots of ‘almost but not quites’, I’ve got a few too many open accounts for my liking. Hopefully get some of them closed over the next couple of weeks.

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#7 Re: Power Club 578 12-18 April 2021
April 18, 2021, 09:11:13 pm
Nice Will!

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#8 Re: Power Club 578 12-18 April 2021
April 18, 2021, 09:30:01 pm
Monday: Went to the Works! Felt so good to be back. Did a nice long session, fingerboarded, went home, did some ancillary core. Felt great.

Tuesday: Rested

Wednesday: Back to the works and had another loooong session. Felt great. Did some more ancillary core afterwards and fingerboarded.

Thursday: Went to the Depot for a dick-around, felt very tired, didn't really do much.

Friday: rested

Saturday: Wanted to go out, but my mate cancelled, so I went to the Works again. Disaster struck; collected my first ever genuine finger injury towards the end of the session. Right hand was in a three-finger pocket, got shock-loaded and my right finger suddenly went and I knew it'd gone badly. Finger is fully mobile but trying to generate any strength with it results in shooting forearm and finger pain. Really fucking hacked off. Applied ice all day, whinged to lady friend on the phone, got appropriate level of sympathy, felt slightly better.

Sunday: tested finger very lightly today, feels much better. Kowalski; Analysis! Probably should be fine to keep climbing as long as I avoid using right hand pockets with my ring finger in, crimp with that finger etc. Slopers and pinches are fine with the right hand. Will continue to ice, and test to see how it feels over time. Pain is also much, much reduced. Still, fucking gutted.

Will have a gentle session tomorrow and see how that goes. Really want to get it healed up so I can get on the lime :(

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#9 Re: Power Club 578 12-18 April 2021
April 18, 2021, 10:00:16 pm
Mon- Leg stretch. Bad times after Sundays run!

Tu- Second/solo 4 easy trad routes at Ilkley up to HS

Wed- Went to Ilkley and brushed up 'old spice' then soloed. Been meaning to do for years, well chuffed. Font 5 but not a good thing to fall off (especially sans pads!). 70 pressups, with bonus russian twists between sets. Leg stretch.

Thurs-

Fri- Easy boulders at Ilkley up to 6A

Sat- Sadgill wall in lakes, then 10 or so easy boulders at settle earth boulders. Leg stretch on return. Did the walk in twice.

Sun- 10 ish FAs in nidderdale up to 6B. Leg stretch.


Lots of easy climbing, been great getting out loads. Finger is almost there I think. Going to start pulling on smaller things this next week. Training is becoming a victim to the weather. Keen to get back on hard stuff, but worried about tweaking my finger  :(
« Last Edit: April 18, 2021, 10:14:24 pm by dunnyg »

spidermonkey09

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#10 Re: Power Club 578 12-18 April 2021
April 18, 2021, 10:47:47 pm
M - rest

T - rest

W - Malham. Fell off matching horn first go, felt strong on horn second go but foot slipped, matched it third go but had no power on the rollover to the pinch. Felt good on lower wall though.

T - rest.

F - rest.

S - Malham. Took a while for shade to come but good craic. Changed foot beta for horn match. Scott did Tremelo. Had four goes up. Fell matching horn first go but was greasy and minging so had done well to get that far. Second go matched horn and made it to top undercut rest. Felt OK and in with a shout but then as soon as i left felt knackered. Screamed my way halfway along the traverse before falling. Third go felt strong but messed up rollover to pinch. Had a rushed last go but felt wasted and fell matching horn. Good session, good to break into the top traverse. Hopefully get back there next session.

S - Trow Gill. New crag for me so loads to do. 4 7s, all were good. Psyched for South Wall Central and Trowgerbirge next time.

Off work this week so will look to get to Malham a few times around some easier climbing. Training has disappeared for now.

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#11 Re: Power Club 578 12-18 April 2021
April 18, 2021, 11:17:08 pm
M - rest + mobility

T - am: repeaters, pm: iron cross, front lever pulls, RTO dips, nordic curls, standing ring roll outs

W - rest +mobility

T - woolley edge quarry. Did an undocumented steep arete which had chalk on it. Guessed 7a and this was later confirmed by someone on Insta. Then did East Side Tale, a problem which felt like a mirror image of Scary canary at Caley and is given the same 7B+. I found a gloriously lanky method though which knocked it down a bit. Progress on Waylander, but started getting dark and had no lamps so went home and did max hangs!

F - rest

S - Brandrith. Walked to the crag before realising I'd left my shoes at home an hour away, damnit! walked back to the car and found a pair in the boot, result! Unfortunately this was a pair of pinks which I absolutely hate and only bought them to do the keel ages ago and haven't worn them since. Spent 2 hours in these insensitive wooden clogs, feet popping everywhere, cheesegrating my hands until I left with no skin and no send of HIYH. Was annoyed with myself all the way home.

S - climbed trees with a chainsaw in hand to try and claim back some evening sunlight in the back garden. Sketchy but fun.

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#12 Re: Power Club 578 12-18 April 2021
April 19, 2021, 01:03:15 am
M: Legs.  Leg press, calf raise, knee extension, hamstring curl. X15 *3sets. Knee feeling a bit tweaky so skipped squats. Lower body stretching

T: Density pickups 20mm 40s LH 40lb *1, 45lb *1, 50lb *2, RH 30lb *2, 35lb *2 HC. Heavy day! 15 mins HIIT (Cardio, core, antag)

W: Density pickups 20mm 40s LH 40lb *1, 45lb *1 RH 30lb *1, 35lb *2 HC. DBC. TA Max Hangs - 20 mm, 7s hangs -25lb, -20lb X1, -15lb X1, -10lb X1, -5lb X1, BW X1, +5lb X2, +10lb X2. Bouldering for 45 mins, did 6 M- boulders! They felt a bit more stressful on finger but v easy in general. Finished with pull-ups EMOM X6 *10mins, struggled at end.

T: T parents in town.

F: T parents in town. Density pickups 20mm 40s LH 40lb *1, 45lb *2, 50lb *1 RH 30lb *1, 35lb *2, 40lb *1 HC. Psyched to get to 40lb on LH!

S: T parents in town

S: DBC. TA Max Hangs - 20 mm, 7s hangsup to +15lb, still think I can go heavier. Bouldering for 45 mins, did 10 M- boulders. Finger felt more stressed and a bit sore. Pull-ups EMOM X6 *10mins, better than last time. Shoulder press X5, bicep curls X5 *3sets to finish

Heavy amount of food (lots of meat) and drinking hosting T's family but back on the 'cut' now

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#13 Re: Power Club 578 12-18 April 2021
April 19, 2021, 07:04:36 am
W/C 12/4/21

M - Abs/core, pulls, Pudsey, density hangs, deadlifts, run, more abs, yoga and stretching
T - Abs,  compression, campus, max hangs, more compression, project bouldering, chest, run, yoga and stretching.
W - Ilkley, pulls, run, yoga and stretching, abs/core, density hangs.
T - Campus, max hangs, abs, compression and chest, run, yoga and stretching
F - Ancillary muscles, yoga and stretching, small edges, Pudsey, walk, pinches
S - Abs, legs, yoga and stretching


Start of a week where things are open again and I aim to get the most out of them. Got into a routine, which worked really well for me, so now have to adapt that to fit with other stuff too. I seemed to transition fairly well once I could get outside again, so confident I can make it work.

M. - Get up and start the day with a 5 minute plank. Go to gym and do five sets of levers, pulling into front lever and then through to back lever.
Move onto pulls starting with muscle ups for three sets of three. On last set do 5 muscle ups, 5 dips, 5 pull ups, not pretty but still chuffed. OAP for three sets, bodyweight on RH, minus 5 on LH, 2 reps per set. Dynamic jumps between bars, 1-3 for three sets. Still too afraid to go 1-4. Off set pull on bars 1-2 to 4 for three sets per arm. One arm locks and scapular work to finish.
Go to Pudsey and have a reasonable session getting up a couple of the purples I’ve got left, a couple of yellows and make progress on a couple of oranges. Good enough. Stop after a couple of hours as reckon best strategy is to stop while I still feel relatively strong.
Try to move on to density hangs for 6 sets. Tough after climbing, so end up doing 24 second sets and use slightly larger holds after first two sets. Perhaps not my brightest idea, although quite a long way from my dumbest idea.
Gym on way home, deadlifts and cardio. Lift 155, which I’m happy with as clearly not lifted for 3 months and I’m a stone lighter than when I was maxing the same weight in November. Think this is probably good evidence that a strong core helps deads and vice versa.
For cardio do a steady 5k with only one a little faster, but still slow. First run in ages. Hated it.
Bit more core when I get home of hollow bodies and back hyperextensuons (aka Superman, archers, supine Is etc, etc).
Yoga for hamstrings and stretching for sciatic nerve, calves and upper body in the late afternoon.
Mrs B is out and can’t think what to do do, so complete a full set of density hangs in the evening for 6x30 seconds, rather unsurprisingly works much better than straight after bouldering. Doh!!!!
A good day.

T - 3x3minute planks, floor routine and 50 rollouts before leaving home I. The morning.
Gym and running nags. 3x8 each of prone T,Y and Is. Supine Ts and iron Cross progressions with 3x20 second floor isometric compressions.
Go to Pudsey intent on trying to get some quality training done. Warm up and then move on to the campus board. Concentrating on bigger moves, manage 1-4-6.5 on RH but much further off with LH and I’m really not getting the motion of pushing down with trailing hand right as yet. Do touch hold on 1-4-7, but no prizes for nearly.
Max hangs for 10 sets adding weight up to 5kg. Then compression hangs with a hand either side of the box the Beastmaker is mounted on for four sets of 10-15 seconds, it’s much easier with thumbs on front face of box.
Go onto a project session on the 50 board, working ZY easy version and a Steady Intro. Get moves sussed and start working links, so hopefully won’t take quite as long as last time I was trying these. Also work a harder thing called Digitalis and not quite doing the moves but trying hard, which is really the purpose of the session.
Gym on way home. Bench working up from 50kg for two reps, end up failing (just at 100) on 9th set. Decline is singles and do six sets with last two at a comfortable 100. Incline on Smith machine  at 30° for 3 reps, max out at 80kg, so drop angle to 15° for another three sets at 80.
Steady treadmill 5k trot. Think it’s going take me a while to grow to enjoy running again.
Yoga for hip flexibility and stretching for splits.

W - Up to Ilkley in the morning, enjoying the delicate moves of Ron’s Traverse and some butch moves on the Calf. Leave as it starts to get busier.
Gym and deadlifts to start, failing at 157.5. Weighted pull-ups for single reps, working up to 66.5kg and then coming back down again. Move on to lock offs with 2x30 seconds at full, 90° and 120°. 3x5 off set pull ups, followed by 3x1 slow negatives. 5x5 close grip pull-ups. Finish with 3sets of scapular work.
Today’s run is 5k outside, which is marginally less grim than on the treadmill but only marginally.
Yoga for shoulders, stretching for upper body, sciatic nerve and finally pancake, which is coming along nicely.
Next is abs and core, starting with 5 minute plank, which feels hard after other efforts of the day. Next is levers, hollow bodies and hyperextensions, all for three sets. 80 paused rollouts.
Finish the day with 6x39 second density hangs, shortening the rest to 3 minutes, which seems okay.
Even for me, today feels like I’ve done a lot.

T - Campus board, for long moves on big holds and then later jumping and catching. Max hangs, start on Lattice rung slowly reducing support until I get to 3kg when I can’t hold it for 5 seconds any more. Then move on to Beastmaker bottom edge, which feels so much easier.
Do some abs work with planks and floor exercises
Quick zap on circuit board, which goes well and feels like effective use of my feet for a change. Spend an hour getting general spanked by the Moonboard and 50 board. Have a bit more success on 30 board, stopping as fingers start to feel tired.
Short break to get something to eat and then on to weights and stuff. Start with bench press for 3x8 at a steady 60. On to TRX prone Ts, Ys and Is and supine IYT combinations. Finish with roll outs with bar bell, catching my knuckles as I went.
Back homewards and a treadmill 5k, which I hate much less than I did earlier in the week. Still not too keen though and still a very very slow pace.
Yoga is back stretching and stretches are for splits today.

F - Early morning gym. Working biceps, triceps, shoulders and wrists.
Depot for social climbing. Do quite a lot of scapular strengthening while warming up along with upper body stretching and yoga for hands, feet and twists. As the plan is easy volume, do my small edges stuff as well with 6x10 seconds on Transgression 6mm edge, which feels much easier than on Beastmaker edge of same size.
Do all the blacks and then get going and do all the pinks, so plenty of volume. Also get a couple of purples done that I’ve not done before, so all is well.
Get home and do 100 easy roll outs.
Walk around the 5k block.
Set of pinches late afternoon and measurements are better than I would expect, just off my best but only just and have done a lot today.

S - Hard abs roll outs for 25 reps. Yoga for hands and fingers followed by stretching for splits.
Nip to the gym to do some legs training. Deadlifts, squats and calf raises of various sorts being the order of the day.

S - Easy abs roll outs for 50, yoga for abs and upper body stretches. Easy day.

Another good week with things fitting together nicely. Inside a lot, but will reduce that going forward and make sure I get at least two days outside, when weather permits.

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#14 Re: Power Club 578 12-18 April 2021
April 19, 2021, 10:45:19 am
M - 10 K run, felt good, some steep, but not too knackered
T - Evening surf. Looked small when I got in, but actually some decent waves on the sets. 3rd surf in a week, and felt like something was clicking and had first good session of the week. Finally met up with a neighbour in his goat boat who has moved up from Northumberland. Knew gme as "the guy in the white van"!
W - 4 x 4s on the board
T - off work, Corbett bagging with the kids. Beautiful day on Morven, they did really well, got cold a the top. Some kettlebells in evening.
F - off work - Bennachie tops with kids, 12 km walk. So much rock up there, needs some more exploration.
S - Bouldering Morning. Back to Floors Craig south, with abovementioned neighbours. Redid a lot of the problems and failed again at the end of the low traverse, ripped hole in little finger. Found more to do round the corner, low tide spots.
S - walk with kids.

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#15 Re: Power Club 578 12-18 April 2021
April 19, 2021, 11:00:47 am
Good effort Simon - all the hard work's starting to pay off  ;)

M: Rest
T: Shoulder stability
W: Routes @ AW - Did some bouldering (6A-6Cish) and all the new F6b's, good mileage!
T: Mileage @ Horseshit - F6a - F6b
F: Routes @ Stoney - F6a - F6c (felt 6b+ but my guide says 6c...)
S: Grit soloing up to VS to setup ropes for kids - taught the boy how to belay and remove gear, Ace!
S: Routes @ Horseshit - Actually only managed 1 F6b(+??) warmup (undergraded in guide) as just rocked up with my youngest hoping to blag a catch... Another one off the list tho!

Mileage, mileage, mileage.... Actually did a properly good Gibson route @ Stoney - 4000: bout 30m and in a great position with the crux at the top (right where it should be!)... Feeling fit and not at all tweaky in shoulders and elbows for the first time in ages... Really feeling the urge to get on with redpointing harder stuff but GF wants to do easys and isn't massively confident with me taking falls (hence all the onsighting). Didn't have thew most luck picking up a waif and stray for a catch on Friday, think warming up on F6b was a bit above his pay grade  :doubt:... Great to take the kids out and have them enjoy it, not try to kill each other and learn some stuff! Sure it'll all come together soon, just gonna keep on keeping on!

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#16 Re: Power Club 578 12-18 April 2021
April 19, 2021, 11:21:20 am

Forgot last week, not much happened so ignore this.

M - Fingerboard pickups: 20kg x 15s x 12 each side. Shoulders: stability wall presses, side planks (5s). Hips/Knees: squats, box-steps.
T - Shoulders: stability wall presses, side planks (5s), supported hand stands (5s). Walked 10km.
W - Fingerboard pickups, R: to 40kg x10 seconds; L: to 35kg x 10 seconds. Gentle shoulder stability stuff.
T - Cycled to Regent’s Park with the lad
F- Fingerboard pickups, R: 40kg for 10 seconds; 43.5kg x 4 seconds. Walked 10km.
S- Sore right elbow! Gentle shoulder stability stuff.
S - Right elbow easier. Fingerboard pickups, L: 27.5kg x10 seconds. Sore left shoulder after this. As it was the last day of lock-down we walked through a peaceful central London to Lincoln’s Inn Fields and back (~12km).

M - Squats, box-steps, 10km walk.
T - 13km walk.
W - Drove to Weston via Haresfield Beacon. Crumbly Cotswold stone in a gentle southern English setting. Did a few of the easiest problems, drank tea, and enjoyed the ambience.
T - Drove back to London via Sally in the Woods. Hidden in the trees above the road there are a few boulders with good climbing on decent rock. Shoulder tolerated a couple of 5+s. Worth a repeat visit.
F - ‘Pick-ups’ to 35kg, both hands. Squats, box-steps, 10km walk.
S - 10km walk.
S - Met csl at Portland. Started at the Lighthouse Area bouldering. Conor looked good on various roof problems (I’ll let him fill in the details) whilst I enjoyed the crimptastic vertical walls. I flashed a couple of alleged 6A+s in my baggy trad. shoes. I don’t really believe this but I suppose it means I can still pull on small holds on vertical rock for three moves. Relocated to Coastguard and repeated Xavier’s Wall and two of his lovely neighbours. Puffed and panted on the boulder hopping and climbing back up the hill. Met up with an old Bristol friend and drank tea by their caravan. Climbing on real rock! By the sea! Fabulous weather! Great company!

Easing back into things. Getting pumped after three moves but don’t feel terrified above a bolt and the various aches are settling. Slightly more concerning is my hideous hill fitness. Despite walking an average of 8-9 kms every day in the last couple of months, I’m still getting short of breath very easily (the lad has pointed this out on family walks). Hope this is due to post-covid general weakness rather lung damage. It’s not the worst problem I could have as I’m never going to take up cycling but it would be good to be able to run up and down hills again. 

Plan: do lots of climbing!

tommytwotone

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#17 Re: Power Club 578 12-18 April 2021
April 19, 2021, 11:53:39 am
MTG (updated) - climb all the Shipley Glen "Alternative Circuit" problems
M/LTG - Alternative Circuit in a day
XLTG: Font 7a


M: nowt
T: participated in fast for Ramadan (out of interest / empathy will a load of the guys in my team who are observing)...lack of food was OK but I had the worst headache ever, presumably from caffeine withdrawal. Apart from that, the lack of water is the hardest bit.
W: back to LSD - think the new set might be a post-lockdown present, some pretty generous grades. Flashed 6 V5s which would ordinarily be a very good day for me.
T: nowt
F: nowt
S: Nice walk round Ogden Reservoir with family, was tempted to wander down to the crag but couldn't persuade anyone else
S: me and the lad went to Shipley again - great day, I ticked off a few more Alt Circuit problems, he climbed loads of the kids' problems, we saw 2 robins about a foot away while we had our lunch and then we stopped at the pub on the way home.




andy popp

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#18 Re: Power Club 578 12-18 April 2021
April 19, 2021, 11:59:40 am
T: participated in fast for Ramadan (out of interest / empathy will a load of the guys in my team who are observing)

You probably couldn't because of Covid, but did you get to break the fast with your colleagues?

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#19 Re: Power Club 578 12-18 April 2021
April 19, 2021, 01:07:58 pm
One of my team gave me some of her family (who she's in a bubble with)'s collosal Indian feast...I thought she was just gonna bung me a tupperware with some dhal in it, but we got a spatchcocked tikka chicken, loads of snacks (samosas, pakoras...) figs (of course) and even a dessert!

There wasn't much of it left by 8:20pm...

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#20 Re: Power Club 578 12-18 April 2021
April 19, 2021, 02:44:51 pm

Power Club
Mon - PE low 30/10 x6 just barely. PE low 1/45" x3 just barely. Forearms tired from Sunday. Full plank 10" x6 x2. 6 boxing rounds. Tired.
Tue - rest.
Wed - short on time. PE low 30/10 x6 just barely. PE low 1/45" x3 x2 just barely. Weights. Rings dips.
Thu - TBDL 70 kg 5x20 EMOM. Easy. Push ups. Bored.
Fri - rest.
Sat - very short on time, skipped lunch and snack, awful. Weights, some loaded carries.
Sun - still tired. Unilateral weights.

andy popp

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#21 Re: Power Club 578 12-18 April 2021
April 19, 2021, 06:28:18 pm
One of my team gave me some of her family (who she's in a bubble with)'s collosal Indian feast.

Fantastic! Most of the families in the apartment building opposite us are Muslim and I've been watching the preparations for Iftar each day with great envy (not so much the fasting, of course). Perhaps inspired by that, I've just made a massive bowl of fattoush.

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#22 Re: Power Club 578 12-18 April 2021
April 19, 2021, 06:40:51 pm
M - Rest

T - Rest

W - Shoulder recruitment + core. Finger boarding. First session for 2.5 weeks after I injured the ring finger flexor in my wrist. Finger/wrist felt ok. Anything open handed on middle two was a no go but I could use most grip types comfortably. Back 3 felt normal but front 3 felt a bit tweaky without support either side of the ring finger. First time I have ever rested properly after injuring a finger and it seems to work!

T - NG PE session on Lattice rung. The first set gave me a painful pump after no training in the previous weeks but the rest of the session was pretty solid and the finger felt fine (3 sets). Trail running 16km 583m.

F - Trail running 12.85km 538m.

S - Went to try a classic 8c hidden away in the forest at the back of a scree slope called Der Schwarze Schwan (The Black Swan). At first the crag looks pretty small and underwhelming but the route and moves are ace. The hard part of the route starts on a traverse in a thin crack on crimps and slots before climbing up into the crux which is getting established on two undercuts with terrible feet, a hard move up to a sloper/flatty and then a wild jump to the arete as it rises to join the top of the crag. I thought I was still quite far off climbing 8c given the on/off start to the season with the weather and injury. However, this one was more my style and felt much more doable than the other one I had been trying. I got pretty high up on my first go. Having said that my session fitness is terrible and my third try was terrible. After not really climbing on intense undercuts for years it seems I have weak wrists as well and my right wrist felt pretty tweaky afterwards. The next day I felt like I had been in a car crash! Definitely lacking the adaptation to hard climbing days after a lack of days on rock or on the climbing wall. I could do with getting out more regularly and doing some days trying to tick a few routes in a sesh between 7a and 7c. Anyway, psyched to get back on this 8c as it is a lot of fun and you get cool moves on gneiss you just don't find on limestone sometimes.

S - Big hill running training day - 43km 3094m. Less than 2 months until I plan to try the Bob Graham round so need to get some big hills days under my belt. I also need to test whether my knee tendon can cope with big days. Fitness-wise the run felt ok but my knee definitely wasn't happy at times. Whether I can do something that is 2.5 times as long both in distance and elevation gain I am not sure yet. Knee rehab continues.

 

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