[crimpinainteasy]

Fuji's top of men's 3 was definitely the highlight for me.  He made that boulder look like total piss after everyone else had struggled so much with it.

[Durbs]

What was the thinking behind leaving half of Dover on M3?

Surely they could have / should have brushed that off before the first competitor, part of my thinks it got progressively easier as all the chalk was removed.
Appreciate it needed to be dried, but didn't seem remotely fair.

Flipside, really fun problem to finish on - no run n' jumping, no massive burl, just delicate feet-only padding. Top-stuff.

What was that stat they put out too - Janja tops 92% of finals problems?! Utterly incredible.

Part of me wants to see the slo-mo ass shot, just to see how truly awful it was, and whether it was a cameraman (and producer) not paying attention as to what they were actually filming so not cutting away, or a cameraman being a massive pervert.

Edit: Found this:
The host broadcaster, ORF, showed a slow-motion sequence lasting around five seconds zooming in on chalk handprints on the backside of home climber Johanna Färber while she took part in the women’s bouldering semi-final.

Sounds very deliberate. Foreigners eh 

[Duma]

I saw it on a mates IG - it was very definitely deliberate. I'm pretty surprised by the lack of comment from the competitors tbh.

[Steve R]

I'm pretty surprised by the lack of comment from the competitors tbh.

Maybe cos most of 'em wear hotpants anyway and aren't really arsed? 

[Durbs]

I saw it on a mates IG - it was very definitely deliberate. I'm pretty surprised by the lack of comment from the competitors tbh.

Competitors or commentators?

[jwi]

Cracks formed by a space between two macro volumes is clearly a new thing in comps.... they did not appear before 1998



(Did not know where to post this, but I found it interesting in light of the renewed interest in making cracks appear on indoor boulders and routes)

[Duma]

Womens Semis in Chamonix this eve, feat MTS:

[jwi]

I saw on FFME's facebook page that the men's semis has been moved forward to tonight because of the weather forecast. The men's and women's semi will both take place at 7.30 PM CET

[Fiend]

Cheers chaps, also nice footjam pic jwi.

Have caught up on Innsbruck and Villars, all good 

[Fiend]

Possible jam 2/3 the way up W's semis?? Haven't been looking too closely tho...

[jwi]

Nice short/flathold commercial about setting in Meiringen. Well worth watching

[jwi]

Finals in the Youth World Championships for Youth A now, with Mejdi Schalk among others.

[GraemeA]

2 Brits in Male Juniior final, along with 2 French and 2 Japanese

[edshakey]

Spoilers

NSFW  :

Congrats the Hamish for the win! Great result for him, already had some decent results in seniors so good to see him end the juniors on a high. And nice one Dayan too, finals is still very impressive. Strong lads 

[jwi]

Just watched the womens junior lead final (due to local interest) and jeez... the draws on the lead walls are ... funky. Recognised some old Petzl and Singing Rock draws that definitely where not sewn in the last decade.

[edshakey]

Hamish into lead finals in first... the double would be something special!

Also not strictly IFSC but Molly is in Rock Masters in Arco, think there might be a stream somewhere but not 100% sure

[edshakey]

Hamish into lead finals in first... the double would be something special!

He's only gone and done it!

[UnkArl]

Hamish into lead finals in first... the double would be something special!

He's only gone and done it!

Absolutely incredible!

[Bradders]

Emily Phillips with the combined win!

https://www.instagram.com/p/CTKIldlDR4k/?utm_medium=copy_link

What are they putting in the water at the Precision Climbing Team meetings?

[Duma]

Good showing in qualifiers yesterday, 3 to semis. No finalists tomorrow (though MTS was close in 11th) but staja is co commentating so should be good. Very strong women's field in particular.

[Duma]

Interesting (?) that 5 female Olympians competing but no males.

[Fiend]

KRANJ. Thanks for the reminder. Some viewing for later.

[tk421a]

Speed World Champs finals today.
Danyil Boldryev wearing a Edelrid Loopo skimo harness c. 80g and Iuliia Kaplina wearing a Camp Alp Racing c. 90g one. Others wearing sport harnesses (Erik Noya hasn't even cut his gear loops off!). Saving about 200g there.
Would've thought in a comp where times are measured to the thousandth you'd go for every marginal gain.

[Fultonius]

Speed World Champs finals today.
Danyil Boldryev wearing a Edelrid Loopo skimo harness c. 80g and Iuliia Kaplina wearing a Camp Alp Racing c. 90g one. Others wearing sport harnesses (Erik Noya hasn't even cut his gear loops off!). Saving about 200g there.
Would've thought in a comp where times are measured to the thousandth you'd go for every marginal gain.

I'm actually surprised they don't just have a standard harness / fixed weight.

[wasbeen]

Speed World Champs finals today.
Danyil Boldryev wearing a Edelrid Loopo skimo harness c. 80g and Iuliia Kaplina wearing a Camp Alp Racing c. 90g one. Others wearing sport harnesses (Erik Noya hasn't even cut his gear loops off!). Saving about 200g there.
Would've thought in a comp where times are measured to the thousandth you'd go for every marginal gain.

I'm actually surprised they don't just have a standard harness / fixed weight.

That is what I was thinking. I have seen quite a few inversions on falls. Not sure how much I would want to trust a semi-adjustable mountaineering harness which may not be designed for repeated falls.