[moose]

Spoiler

NSFW  :

I've only ever watched 3-4 indoor competitions before, so this is will either be a very clichéd view or just plain wrong, but half-way through that I was thinking "Ondra looks a bit clunky and uncoordinated compared to the Japanese climbers".  I almost felt a little embarrassed for him, trying to adapt his rock skills to plastic; it was like watching an Ent attempting to breakdance......and. then. he. won!

[Duma]

Thought Jakob was quite good for the semis. Offered some nice little insights at times.

Yeah he was OK, though the nonsense he spouted about the jam did annoy me. Seemed not to notice how a couple of his teammates were doing either which was odd.
Stasa though is different class. IFSC should get an option on her commentary for the Olympics

[Duma]

NSFW  :

Oriane on W2!

[abarro81]

Just started watching... Start of M1 is terrible setting. Any time dabbing is an issue that's a real fuck up IMO.

[Duma]

I thought that at first, but no one else had any issue with it so think it was just bad beta that brought the dab into play

[NoonThunder]

Well that was dull.

Crap setting for the men and of course Janja won! She really is something else.

Interesting to see so many pretty gnarly falls.

[Fiend]

Well that was cool!

Mostly good varied setting all round (even the jumps turned out to be kinda fun once they got done), and it was cool to see some unknown women pull something spectacular out of the bag!

Also...

Stasa though is different class. IFSC should get an option on her commentary for the Olympics

best co-commentator I can recall them having. For a young-ish lass in her second language, she was excellent. Very quick responses, always had something to say without hesitation nor blethering, lots of great insights both personal and technical, and overall eloquence - talking about Akiyo (?) "snookering herself" on W3 was a gem. Although I'd probably still prefer to see her on the mats...

Moose - you're absolutely right. Sometimes his outdoor nouse and tactics do work against him when he focuses on trying to work out a refined and optimum method instead of just getting the fuck on with whatever bollox the setters have contrived. And then sometimes that cunning gets him well ahead....along with raw skill ofc.

[fatneck]

Just finished watching with the wife. She commented that she really enjoyed the problems. I agreed and thought the commentary was ace!

Contrary to someone above who said it was dull, we thought it was an excellent comp 👍

[Bradders]

Just finished watching with the wife. She commented that she really enjoyed the problems. I agreed and thought the commentary was ace!

Contrary to someone above who said it was dull, we thought it was an excellent comp 👍

Yeah likewise, the only thing that could possibly be labelled dull was the complete predictability of Janja's win, but even that was amazing to watch as she's just so impossibly good. I had to remind myself that I'd just watched 8B / 8B+ / 8C climbers and previous World Cup winners failing on these problems each time she smoothly dispatched, as she makes it look so easy.

[sherlock]

IFSC World Cup in Utah.
I think we' ll see the semis live at 18:00 BST on Saturday.
Absolutely cracking line-up but   Janja & Akiyo absent.

[Fiend]

Edit cheers for the links Duma 

[Duma]

Start list:
https://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php/world-competition/calendar?task=starters&event=1190
Womens Quals 4pm BST today
Mens Quals 10:30pm today
Semis  6pm BST Sat -  YT link:

Finals midnight BST Sat - YT link:



Shauna's first comp in how long?

Oriane FTW though.

Still no Tomoa which is a shame
Only one Mawem brother, be good to see how he goes in the bouldering before the olympics

[sherlock]

Yeah Duma, thanks!
I always seem to stuff up putting links in the message 
Think SC last competed in 2019, Hachioji Olympic Quals?
Olympics looking on a shoogly peg just now BTW.

[Duma]

just had a look at the start list for next weekends WC (also in SLC) and some interesting changes:

Janja's back, as are Akiyo and Tomoa

I guess this is as there's a speed comp too so they can combine.

Shauna's competing this weekend but not next, seems a weird choice, if you're only doing one surely you'd choose the one with speed given the olympic aspect - as the three above seemed to have done?

[NoonThunder]

I think if I was Shauna and I'd already qualified for the Olympics I would avoid any speed comps at all costs!

Flipping dull   

[remus]

I think if I was Shauna and I'd already qualified for the Olympics I would avoid any speed comps at all costs!

Flipping dull   

Surely if you want to win in the combined format then getting some practice in your weaker disciplines, especially under comp conditions, is going to be very beneficial?

[Bradders]

Psyched for this, shame Janja's not there but otherwise it's a bit of a who's who of current elite competition climbing.

Interesting very few of the more traditional American outdoor climbers present; no Woods, Webb, Fultz, Puccio, Johnson, etc. Granted they're all getting on a little bit but considering all of them have pushed their bouldering grades in the last year and given it's on home soil I'd have thought at least one of them would have shown up.

Oriane FTW though.

Podium of Oriane, Kyra Condie and Shauna I reckon 

[sherlock]

Podium of Oriane, Kyra Condie and Shauna I reckon 
[/quote]

I'll stick my neck out and go for Condie, Miho and Grossman, no particular order.
Absolutely no idea in Men's.

[NoonThunder]

I think if I was Shauna and I'd already qualified for the Olympics I would avoid any speed comps at all costs!

Flipping dull   

Surely if you want to win in the combined format then getting some practice in your weaker disciplines, especially under comp conditions, is going to be very beneficial?

I doubt it. When it's the a discipline they're all only doing because they have to rather than want to alot of it comes down to luck on the day. Speed seems to be one of those things where even if you've practied everything a million times a footslip is all it takes.

Just my 2pence anyway!

[teestub]

Interesting very few of the more traditional American outdoor climbers present; no Woods, Webb, Fultz, Puccio, Johnson, etc. Granted they're all getting on a little bit but considering all of them have pushed their bouldering grades in the last year and given it's on home soil I'd have thought at least one of them would have shown up.

I think comp problems have become so specialised these days that they wouldn’t really have a chance! More than a decade on from Woods crushing in Vail

[Dexter]

I think if I was Shauna and I'd already qualified for the Olympics I would avoid any speed comps at all costs!

Flipping dull   

Surely if you want to win in the combined format then getting some practice in your weaker disciplines, especially under comp conditions, is going to be very beneficial?

I doubt it. When it's the a discipline they're all only doing because they have to rather than want to alot of it comes down to luck on the day. Speed seems to be one of those things where even if you've practied everything a million times a footslip is all it takes.

Just my 2pence anyway!

Surely this will be affected in part by nerves, which will be alleviated by doing more speed climbing in a competition format.

[Duma]

Agree with Grossman for the podium, she looked very good in Meringen

[jwi]

My guess (based on assumed "American setting" i.e. basic):

Women: Miho Nonaka, Oriane Bertone, Laura Rogora

Men: Adam Ondra, Fuji Kokoro, Ogata Yoshiyuki

[Duma]

No Shauna in semis, not even close. Molly way down too.

Jen Wood on the edge in 19th, couple of women left to climb though - fingers crossed!

[Sidehaas]

How do you follow the qualis? I can't find updates anywhere.