[Duma]

NSFW  :

12 tops in the semis is ridiculously few, obviously the setters job is really hard but still.

Feeling better about my Podium Predictions now though!

[remus]

Men's way too hard, shame.

Too right!

NSFW  :

1 top enough to get in to the Men's top 10, only 2 climbers who got 2 or more tops!

[Duma]

Also...
(Not a spoiler, but sensitive)

NSFW  :

Laura Rogora is pretty worrying. Tbh I'm glad she didn't threaten finals

[Fiend]

I liked that Czech bloke on M4.

Balance was screwy but problems seemed fun although not much brutal steepness. I was only half paying attention due to focusing a bit more on death metal on bandcamp tho.

[Duma]

How long since more Austrians than Japanese in finals?

[Duma]

Just finished the finals, Great finish to the womens!

[Duma]

NSFW  :

https://www.instagram.com/p/CPNIIdJAo2H/?utm_medium=share_sheet

[Fultonius]

Also...
(Not a spoiler, but sensitive)

NSFW  :

Laura Rogora is pretty worrying. Tbh I'm glad she didn't threaten finals

My thoughts exactly, I can't help but feel she needs some professional support.

[finbarrr]

problems seemed fun although not much brutal steepness.

I felt like I was watching World Cup slab bouldering.

Still enjoyed it.

Also , there is no ideal weight, ..
and we shouldn’t comment on climbers’ bodies, ...
I hope she’s ok

[Bradders]

Great comp I thought, for both men and women. Sustained interest right to the end. Glad the men's problems were more balanced versus semis.

Ondra just oozing class atm, seems like he's on great form and Mehjdi Shalck looks like an incredible talent. He might well have won if he'd flashed the first problem, as I thought he was going to, just misread the top.

Also...
(Not a spoiler, but sensitive)

NSFW  :

Laura Rogora is pretty worrying. Tbh I'm glad she didn't threaten finals

My thoughts exactly, I can't help but feel she needs some professional support.

I agree. Had similar thoughts about Grossman tbh, not that I'd like to take anything away from a great performance from her!

[Bradders]

Here's a fun fact; this was the first bouldering World Cup or World Championship since June 2018 which wasn't won by Janja Garnbret. 10 consecutive events.

Wonder why she wasn't there this time?

[NoonThunder]

[/quote]Also , there is no ideal weight, ..
and we shouldn’t comment on climbers’ bodies, ...
I hope she’s ok
[/quote]

Personally I can't agree with that as I believe it's a topic we need to talk more about, openly and not judgementally.

Great to see all shapes and sizes bouldering to an incredibly high level but at the same time worrying that her coaches, family, team have clearly allowed her to undereat.

[jwi]

I agree. Had similar thoughts about Grossman tbh, not that I'd like to take anything away from a great performance from her!

I was mostly wondering if she is somehow related to the great Vasily, but much to my disappointment my better half told me that Grossman is/was a common name in Ukraine.

[abarro81]

Given the discussion here:
https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/ukc/ifsc_boulder_world_cup_salt_lake_city_2021_report-735122
[TLDR: T-nut holes are "out" like bolts and advertising banners are]

how come Brooke could use the t-nut holes and get away with it? And why did no other teams appeal? Anyone know?

Edit: this was double posted, with the second post a quote of the first post, but including the TLDR - I have deleted the duplicate post and included the TLDR in this post - Ru.

[joel182]

Given the discussion here:
https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/ukc/ifsc_boulder_world_cup_salt_lake_city_2021_report-735122
[TLDR: T-nut holes are "out" like bolts and advertising banners are]

how come Brooke could use the t-nut holes and get away with it? And why did no other teams appeal? Anyone know?

Edit: this was double posted, with the second post a quote of the first post, but including the TLDR - I have deleted the duplicate post and included the TLDR in this post - Ru.

I thought T-nut holes were disallowed for hands but allowed for feet, but skimming through the rules I can't find anything to back that up:

Artificial Aidmeans Controlling or Using any of the following

a)any “T-Nut”placements provided for the fixing of artificial holds;

Use means,  for  the  purposes  of  judging  and  scoring,  that  a  competitor  has  made  use  of  some object/structure  toeffectboth  a  progressive  movement  of  their  centre  of  mass  or  hips;  anda movementof either or both hands toward:
a) the next sequential handhold along the line of progression;

8.17 A competitor’s attempt will be:
A)judged “Unsuccessful” if:
4)the competitor has made use of any Artificial Aid,

[Muenchener]

Seemed odd to me too.

I've heard it argued that it would be hard to draw the line between smearing on a bit of wall that happened to include a t-nut hole and deliberately "using" one. But I've also watched a lot of world cup bouldering, both live and on video, and I've never seen anybody else as blatantly and deliberately front-pointing on them as Brooke was.

[Dac]

Given how the majority of the top competitors are extensively coached, and attend training events to climb problems in a competition style setting, surely at one of these Brookes propensity for using t-nut holes for feet has been observed before.
So I can only assume that Brooke and her coach are satisfied that the technique is permitted, because you wouldn't want to risk doing it otherwise.

Having said that, from the extracts from the rules people have been posting on UKC that doesn't appear to be the case.

[jwi]

Time to get out some crampons for the slabs then!

[Moo]

I'm a bit surprised that they're still bothering to T-Nut competition walls, it would seem to make more sense to just use screws then it avoids the issue entirely.

[teestub]

Did I miss a reason why there’s two bouldering world cups on the bounce in SLC? I had assumed this weekend coming was speed and lead.

[danm]

Did I miss a reason why there’s two bouldering world cups on the bounce in SLC? I had assumed this weekend coming was speed and lead.

The main reasons without a doubt are
a) there have been pretty much no intl comps for over a year and competitors are rusty as sin so want to get off as many comps in as possible to get match fit again
b) getting the travel exemptions etc sorted is such a huge amount of work and so uncertain, that once you've actually travelled, why wouldn't you do as many comps as you can? Its totally logical.

[Bradders]

b) getting the travel exemptions etc sorted is such a huge amount of work and so uncertain, that once you've actually travelled, why wouldn't you do as many comps as you can? Its totally logical.

Making it extra strange that Shauna's gone home!

[teestub]

I guess they are hoping the travel situation is improved a bit before Austria>Switzerland>France>Moscow>Seoul>Xiamen>Wujiang>Jakarta!

[joel182]

I guess they are hoping the travel situation is improved a bit before Austria>Switzerland>France>Moscow>Seoul>Xiamen>Wujiang>Jakarta!

Don't forget Tokyo in the middle of all that 

[Fiend]

Bit easy and a bit slabby but still a good comp. The teenage Francaises especially!