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IFSC 2021 (Read 45626 times)

Fiend

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#250 Re: IFSC 2021
September 24, 2021, 10:38:24 am
Caught up on the bouldering. Great stuff, one of the best ones I've seen recently. Even Matt Groom's commentary is getting more tolerable. Only the slightly annoying action-missing close-ups on hands and feet were a detraction. Highlights included, good variety of problems, some really cool moves, interesting diverse beta, Camilla's exuberant vibes, Stasa's toblerone, and the men's winner JFC that was impressive, Garbret style next level!

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#251 Re: IFSC 2021
September 24, 2021, 01:57:39 pm
If I'm honest I don't usually follow the comps, but tuned in to see Hamish in the final. I ended up being as gripped watching it as I've ever been following any sport on TV. To me it looked as though he was more bunched on that final move as he's tall, which lead to the dry fire off the hold as he made the pop?

Either way, it feels like we have a team of contenders rather than one big name, which bodes well for the future. Exciting to see what Lorraine and the team can help the athletes achieve with the UK Sport funding they've secured.

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#252 Re: IFSC 2021
September 24, 2021, 03:20:42 pm
I'm excited to see Natalia v Janja next season. Natalia in both boulder and lead just seemed to be moving with a similar sort of ease to Janja, so I reckon if she maintains her progression it'll be tight between those two next year! Be nice to see Janja given a good run for her money.

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#253 Re: IFSC 2021
September 24, 2021, 04:05:03 pm
I wonder if it is possible for a female over 5'5" to make it at the top level these days. I can't think of any Ondra'esque outliers and it seems to me that all the new extrants to the scene are close to 5 foot.

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#254 Re: IFSC 2021
September 24, 2021, 04:24:40 pm
Not sure how much of an outlier Ondra is in terms of height, when at least 3 inches of it is just neck, with little associated weight disadvantage 😂

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#255 Re: IFSC 2021
September 24, 2021, 04:37:13 pm
Good point.

My suspicion is that we will see climbers reaching the top level at a younger and younger age. Then drop out as they finish growing.

It has got the recipe for eating disorders written all over it.

One positive to the speed climbing was at least it gave a bit of advantage to raw burl.

Currently it seems the issue of weight/height is the elephant in the room. But from what I can see, once they get to 5"5' female climbers might as well hang up their competitive climbing shoes.

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#256 Re: IFSC 2021
September 24, 2021, 05:48:36 pm
Stasa Gejo

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#257 Re: IFSC 2021
September 24, 2021, 06:00:01 pm
Good point.

My suspicion is that we will see climbers reaching the top level at a younger and younger age. Then drop out as they finish growing.

It has got the recipe for eating disorders written all over it.

One positive to the speed climbing was at least it gave a bit of advantage to raw burl.

Currently it seems the issue of weight/height is the elephant in the room. But from what I can see, once they get to 5"5' female climbers might as well hang up their competitive climbing shoes.

Why can men be successful >5' 5", but women can't?

Just doesn't make sense to me.

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#258 Re: IFSC 2021
September 24, 2021, 06:06:14 pm
I think there are a few factors. The most obvious is power to weight.

However, I also think that setters set for the shortest climbers to avoid stopper moves. However this disadvantages taller/heavier climbers on all other moves.

It is interesting that British rowing have minimum height requirements for selection to their talent programmes. I wonder if the opposite is the future for climbing.
« Last Edit: September 24, 2021, 06:14:04 pm by wasbeen »

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#259 Re: IFSC 2021
September 24, 2021, 06:11:38 pm
Stasa Gejo

I suspect bouldering is a bit more forgiving than lead.

A

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#260 Re: IFSC 2021
September 24, 2021, 07:02:14 pm
However, I also think that setters set for the shortest climbers to avoid stopper moves. However this disadvantages taller/heavier climbers on all other moves.
Definitely NOT always the case and you just have to watch some recent comps to see it. I think it was the Austrian Graz comp where the women had to spring onto an arms outstretched slab to start a problem and the shorter ones that could only just touch holds with fingertips were pretty fucked. Nimrod Marcus on M3 in the recent IFSC another example. Although clearly the routesetters generally aim to do a good job, with the modern style of setting - often sparse holds (no little jibs to spare) and sometimes long moves - the shorter climber seems to have as much disadvantage as the longer climbers occasionally getting bunched up into cramped spaces.

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#261 Re: IFSC 2021
September 24, 2021, 07:12:20 pm
Yes you are right. But I think what is forgotten is that even on the moves that are not bunched or stretched. Shorter climbers have a weight advantage. Less so in bouldering which requires more power and less endurance.

In my mind, Laura Rogora climbed like a punter in the recent lead comp and still came third. Unfortunately, being small and light acccounts for a lot.

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#262 Re: IFSC 2021
October 01, 2021, 08:10:09 pm
Caught up on the Lead, somewhat belatedly. A great end to the season despite the somewhat experimental performance art bollox of the choice of camera cuts (yes the audience are fascinating BUT NOT AS MUCH AS THE FUCKING MOVES WE'RE TRYING TO WATCH). The actually footage of the climbing was good, the routes were good and varied, the highlight was probably the squirmy techy headwall of the Mens, despite the relative lack of separation it was always exciting to see that bit. Excellent work by Hamish ofc. Also, Matt Groom's commentary is definitely improving, maybe he's got inspired by the "surely this is satire" blethering horror of the Olympic commentator and that's put a boot up his arse to stay away from that, but at any rate it was more palatable than usual with even a few nice insights (and the co-commentator suggesting that a competitor get two pluses for two really good lunges for a hold had me laughing out loud).

Kinda sad the season is over TBH. IFSC have done a great job taking into account the lingering malign of covid and the shadow of the Olympics. In fact Graeme can have a wad point for being part of it  :icon_beerchug:

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#263 Re: IFSC 2021
October 23, 2021, 07:04:56 pm


European Lead Finals just starting with Jim, Alex and Max having qualified in 1st, 3rd and 5th respectively

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#264 Re: IFSC 2021
October 23, 2021, 07:50:35 pm
Womens final was appalling!

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#265 Re: IFSC 2021
October 23, 2021, 08:15:33 pm
I really hope nobody falls off this men's start, would be very unlucky. Slovenian kid nearly did  :'(

 

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