[edshakey]

Fuck fuck fuck

That fall look awful. Not much of a spoiler - Minyoung Lee coming off M4, thoroughly whipped his back the wrong way on landing, immediately appearing to be in lots of pain.

TV director still showed a replay, because why wouldn't you

For anyone curious (this up your street Fiend?), it was approx 1hr 20 into the stream, Korean athlete on boulder on left of stage, towards the end of the 5 min rotation. Really not nice though

[Fiend]

Definitely not up my street. Thanks, will know to avoid it if I watch on catch-up.

[GraemeA]

That fall look awful.

Latest news is the CT scan shows no problem. They are waiting for the blood test result

[edshakey]

That fall look awful.

Latest news is the CT scan shows no problem. They are waiting for the blood test result

Great news, thanks for the update. Such a shame, to injure yourself in celebration - gonna make me pause next time i'm at the wall and finishing a problem, I can't get the image out of my head 

[Durbs]

Horrendous fall and arse-gate aside (not to diminish either), both Finals were excellent IMHO.

So, SO refreshing to get decent commentary, both co-commentators Alex and Sofya were excellent, and Matt was solid.
Please, let us never hear from Jonny Bryan ever again.

Perhaps a little too jumpy in the men's, but both were great comps, well set, exciting moments, different solutions.
Some iffy camera work, showing feet/hands when the excitement was elsewhere, but overall really good.

[GraemeA]

Lee Minyoung has just finished his 2nd route in Lead Quals. He is currently in 26th although is likely to get bumped out of the semi.

Wow 

(He is the guy that had the hiddeous landing)

[Duma]

glad he seems ok.

MTS and Hamish M look like they're through to semis

[GraemeA]

glad he seems ok.

MTS and Hamish M look like they're through to semis

Along with Will and Billy. Jim would have also got through but he missed 2nd clip - the judges scored him but the microphone wasn't working so they could stop him, he got high enough to qualify before he was stopped.

[Duma]

ah that's shit! thought it looked weird him only getting to 8 - assumed he'd slipped

[edshakey]

Generally great results today, real shame about Jim. If anyone finds a vid of it, I'd appreciate a link - must have been climbing quick to just breeze right past

[sherlock]

Looks like Seoul has been cancelled next month, think that makes Natalia overall bouldering champion.

[Duma]

Good semis - excellent result from Hamish again! Shame the women all split at the same point, seems really shit for final places at the world champs to be decided on countback or time. Are there appeals ongoing? - Men's final startlist is out but women's still showing no data on the app.

[Duma]

The app has updated to move Salome up from 39+ to 40, and Molly down from 39+ to 39

makes it look a bit less shit - only 4 women on 39+ instead of 6...

[edshakey]

Incredible from Hamish, getting the only top is crazy. Excited for tonight!

[Wood FT]

Great comp. worth a watch on. At iplayer catch up

[edshakey]

Great comp. worth a watch on. At iplayer catch up

Agreed, very exciting.

Spoiler

NSFW  :

I was a mess watching that, haven't been so nervous in ages. Well done Hamish, incredible result - we don't have many British world championship medalists!

Shame the route was a bit soft with the bunched results at the top, but exciting nonetheless.

Lucky there's no Brits in the women's, my nerves couldn't take that 

[IanP]

Great comp. worth a watch on. At iplayer catch up

Agreed, very exciting.

Spoiler

NSFW  :

I was a mess watching that, haven't been so nervous in ages. Well done Hamish, incredible result - we don't have many British world championship medalists!

Shame the route was a bit soft with the bunched results at the top, but exciting nonetheless.

Lucky there's no Brits in the women's, my nerves couldn't take that 

Do we need spoiler warnings? Surely anybody who doesn't want to know what's happened is not clicking on this thread 

Anyway, great stuff.

NSFW  :

Super impressive from Hamish to perform at the top level over every round, looks like a real talent.

[Bradders]

Great comp. worth a watch on. At iplayer catch up

Agreed, very exciting.

Spoiler

NSFW  :

I was a mess watching that, haven't been so nervous in ages. Well done Hamish, incredible result - we don't have many British world championship medalists!

Shame the route was a bit soft with the bunched results at the top, but exciting nonetheless.

Lucky there's no Brits in the women's, my nerves couldn't take that 

Yep, great comp, amazing performance from Hamish.

On the women's, worth mentioning how unfortunate Molly TS was. Got to the same point as at least 2 of the other finalists, in a quicker time, yet somehow was marked down and missed out. Suspicious that the Russian athlete Dinara was the one who made it through, but there we go.

[edshakey]

Do we need spoiler warnings? Surely anybody who doesn't want to know what's happened is not clicking on this thread 

Probably would be fine, but just in case some people got their times wrong and thought it might be later in the eve? Rather add the tag than ruin someone's evening entertainment!

On the women's, worth mentioning how unfortunate Molly TS was. Got to the same point as at least 2 of the other finalists, in a quicker time, yet somehow was marked down and missed out. Suspicious that the Russian athlete Dinara was the one who made it through, but there we go.

I suppose it's times like these we call out for the insider knowledge from Graeme 

[galpinos]

On the women's, worth mentioning how unfortunate Molly TS was. Got to the same point as at least 2 of the other finalists, in a quicker time, yet somehow was marked down and missed out. Suspicious that the Russian athlete Dinara was the one who made it through, but there we go.

I suppose it's times like these we call out for the insider knowledge from Graeme 

Agreed. I thought she seemed hard done by (as did she as per her Insta) so some reasoning would be nice.

[GraemeA]

I suppose it's times like these we call out for the insider knowledge from Graeme 

No comment from me about the outcome of reviewing all the scores of athletes bunched around that area other than Dinara's nationality had nowt to do with anything (anyway she is not Russian , she represents CFR!). No one from the host nation had anything to do with the decisions.

[Duma]

CFR is climbing federation of Russia, I'm pretty sure?

Hometown Gubkinsky, in Russia...

[SA Chris]

I think he means CFR not officially being Russia.

[GraemeA]

I think he means CFR not officially being Russia.

I mean that due to the WADA ruling Russia/Russian etc was not seen or mentioned during the whole event. Just like there were no athletes reprsenting Russia in Tokyo , they were all representing the ROC.

But the main point was that Dinara did not get preferential treatment due to being on home soil.

[SA Chris]

Finally got round to watching Men's final. Hamish looked nervous and wobbly compared to the other competitors, amazing gutsy tenacity hanging on and doing as well as he did, brilliant effort. Bit more top level exposure will hopefully help with this though.