[GraemeA]

If it's IFSC footage, then it's theft plain and simple, regardless of how good a job they are doing. Who pays for the film makers to travel?

This.
I remember Ondra used to use footage for his vlogs which seemed fair game as it was him climbing, but they put a stop to that too.

Athletes have to apply for a Licence and the 2021 Licence includes this "- I agree not to shoot IFSC competitions without IFSC prior approval; and I agree not to use IFSC footage without IFSC prior approval." (NB I have no idea whether this clause was included in previous year's licence details but can't be arsed checking).

[Duma]

Innsbruck lead qualis today, Ondra looking good. Brooke in 3rd in women's - after her shock "not win" in SLC, has Janja finally got some competition? Dora the explorer in 2nd and skinny as ever.
Boulder qualis tomorrow at 8am BST I think.

[GraemeA]

There is a brief highlights video of the Mixed Gender comp that was trialled in SLC. Nice touch that isn't in the vid is that we couldn't get the national anthemn sorted so I suggested the winning team just sang it.

[Duma]

lead semis tomorrow morning:

lead finals tomorrow eve:

Boulder semis Sat morning:

Boulder finals Sat eve:

[Duma]

Sean Bailey, winner of last WC, well out of semis. Likewise Jernej Kruder, Manu Cornu. Megos scraped in.
Mickael Mawem looking good again. Jakob looking very strong in Lead and Bouldering.
Good to see Akiyo looks back on form. Got to be a bit gutted for Kyra Condie - 21st in lead and boulder.

Bouldering going to be interesting as lots of this field doing lead semis/finals tomorrow.

[galpinos]

...... Got to be a bit gutted for Kyra Condie - 21st in lead and boulder.

21st in lead gets her into the semis?

[crimpinainteasy]

How comes Adam Ondra isn't participating in bouldering, only lead?

[Kingy]

He injured his shoulder in the last World Cup in Salt Lake

[Duma]

...... Got to be a bit gutted for Kyra Condie - 21st in lead and boulder.

21st in lead gets her into the semis?

Does it? my bad, assumed it would be the same cut off as bouldering. Shows how much lead I pay attention to!

[galpinos]

...... Got to be a bit gutted for Kyra Condie - 21st in lead and boulder.

21st in lead gets her into the semis?

Does it? my bad, assumed it would be the same cut off as bouldering. Shows how much lead I pay attention to!

I didn't realise either, it was the press release that made me realise it's 26 in the lead semis.

Are the grey bolt covers new? Seems a good addition if so, stops the, "did their foot touch the bolt" controversies.

[jwi]

Genius routesetting in the women's final. That's how you make being skinny-strong a disadvantage.

[Mr_Cus]

Janjajajaja killin it again - olympic champ?

[teestub]

Oh!

[Bradders]

NSFW  :

Wonder what was going on with Ondra?! Very uncharacteristic, although the first slip led to an incredible save, so strong! He was pissing it to that point too.

Good women's final. Janja cruising but good to see her being pushed at least a little bit by Akiyo and Brooke.

[J_duds]

His foot slipped twice!  Were his boots too small?

Enjoyed watching the lead final.

[galpinos]

What’s happened to the boulder semis? No longer televised? The link to/on YouTube seems dead/to have disappeared.

Great route setting for the Ladies final imho. Thought it might suit the more “boulder strong” women too much and might be too low percentage but worked well.

Men’s final, well, wasn’t expecting that!

[Duma]

Semis streamed fine live but now says it's private, weird?

[Duma]

Lead semis and finals still online though, very odd

[galpinos]

IFSC Facebook page now shows an apology from ORF for some of their footage during the women’s semi. I presume that’s why it was pulled.

[jwi]

Pretty impressive showing from the Japanese men.

Even if Garnbret comes last in speed (not completely unlikely) it will be hard to beat a score of 1x1x20. If Raboutou comes second in both bouldering and lead, she will have to be fourth or better in speed to win.

[36chambers]

IFSC Facebook page now shows an apology from ORF for some of their footage during the women’s semi. I presume that’s why it was pulled.

Is this to do with the slow-mo ass shots?   

[galpinos]

IFSC Facebook page now shows an apology from ORF for some of their footage during the women’s semi. I presume that’s why it was pulled.

Is this to do with the slow-mo ass shots?

I believe so, yes.

[GraemeA]

Pretty impressive showing from the Japanese men.

Even if Garnbret comes last in speed (not completely unlikely) it will be hard to beat a score of 1x1x20. If Raboutou comes second in both bouldering and lead, she will have to be fourth or better in speed to win.

The medals are decided in the finals though ;-)

So it is 1 x 1 x 8 for Janja in your scenario. Brooke would need to win speed if she gets 2nd in both lead and boulder. 2 x 2 x 2 for Brooke would see Janja win due to the tie breaking rules.

[jwi]

Pretty impressive showing from the Japanese men.

Even if Garnbret comes last in speed (not completely unlikely) it will be hard to beat a score of 1x1x20. If Raboutou comes second in both bouldering and lead, she will have to be fourth or better in speed to win.

The medals are decided in the finals though ;-)

So it is 1 x 1 x 8 for Janja in your scenario. Brooke would need to win speed if she gets 2nd in both lead and boulder. 2 x 2 x 2 for Brooke would see Janja win due to the tie breaking rules.

ahh.... yeah. Of course!

[remus]

Not sure how new it is but I like the introduction of the 'bolt blocker' holds. Nice solution to the problem of climbers dabbing a bolt while climbing and then having to be called off.