[remus]

Making it extra strange that Shauna's gone home!

Just speculating, but I wonder whether last weekend was meant to test the waters and see how the injury felt? Maybe that's why she wasn't on the start list for this weekend.

[GraemeA]

[Making it extra strange that Shauna's gone home!

Someone said that she is getting married.

[galpinos]

Sod the wedding goss Graeme, what's the deal with using bolt holes for feet? Legit or not?

[Fiend]

Hell yeah. Give us the bolt-hole goss!

I was waving as you strolled past the camera several times, hth.

[GraemeA]

Sod the wedding goss Graeme, what's the deal with using bolt holes for feet? Legit or not?

Well we had the Technical meeting for the 2nd BWC in SLC a couple of hours ago and I was able to confirm that it was never intended to change the rule to eliminate the use of T-nuts holes for feet. So they are allowed and it is public knowledge 

[Potash]

Will hard lugs within the rubber of climbing shoes be explicitly banned soon then?

I can picture a shoe with duel density rubber, soft and normal in all the normal places whilst containing hard lugs in the outside edge for bolt holes.

Are those weird heel hooking ridged shoes allowed?

[galpinos]

Sod the wedding goss Graeme, what's the deal with using bolt holes for feet? Legit or not?

Well we had the Technical meeting for the 2nd BWC in SLC a couple of hours ago and I was able to confirm that it was never intended to change the rule to eliminate the use of T-nuts holes for feet. So they are allowed and it is public knowledge 

Cheers Graeme, you can now return to your other roll as the over-caffeinated sugary drink company wedding correspondent.......

[Muenchener]

Will hard lugs within the rubber of climbing shoes be explicitly banned soon then?

I can picture a shoe with duel density rubber, soft and normal in all the normal places whilst containing hard lugs in the outside edge for bolt holes.

Pah. Go the whole hog with jwi's idea: fruit boots with filed down monopoints

[SA Chris]

Are those weird heel hooking ridged shoes allowed?

Like the old orange Mad Rocks? Would have thought so.

[moose]

Will hard lugs within the rubber of climbing shoes be explicitly banned soon then?

I can picture a shoe with duel density rubber, soft and normal in all the normal places whilst containing hard lugs in the outside edge for bolt holes.

Pah. Go the whole hog with jwi's idea: fruit boots with filed down monopoints

I'd prefer the stealth variant - Rosa Klebb style retractable "flick crampons":

https://youtu.be/EeXAojTEkvg?t=80

[SA Chris]

About as effective a weapon as a bowler hat.

[jwi]

Just checked the ifsc webpage and saw that Kiromal Katibin broke the world record in speed by quite a bit in the qualifiers in Salt Lake. 5.25 seconds compared to the old record of 5.48

[GraemeA]

Both of his runs were under the old WR (5.25 and 5.32). His compatriot, Veddriq Leonardo ran 5.37

[joel182]

Fastest times in the Qualifying round for the Olympic climbers:

Code: [Select]

| Aleksandra | Miroslaw    | POL | 7.20  |
| Janja      | Garnbret    | SLO | 8.36  |
| Kyra       | Condie      | USA | 8.44  |
| Anouck     | Jaubert     | FRA | 8.49  |
| Miho       | Nonaka      | JPN | 8.58  |
| Akiyo      | Noguchi     | JPN | 9.13  |
| Brooke     | Raboutou    | USA | 9.37  |
| Petra      | Klingler    | SUI | 9.43  |
| Laura      | Rogora      | ITA | 11.60 |
| Erin       | Sterkenburg | RSA | 12.05 |

Code: [Select]

| Ludovico    | Fossali    | ITA | 6.09        |
| Mickael     | Mawem      | FRA | 6.28        |
| Colin       | Duffy      | USA | 6.75        |
| Christopher | Cosser     | RSA | 6.83        |
| Jan         | Hojer      | GER | 6.89        |
| Nathaniel   | Coleman    | USA | 6.97        |
| Michael     | Piccolruaz | ITA | 7.15        |
| Sean        | McColl     | CAN | 7.81        |
| Kai         | Harada     | JPN | 7.89        |
| Tomoa       | Narasaki   | JPN | false start |
Some climbers (Ondra, Megos) seemed to be registered for Speed but didn't compete which I find quite surprising. Feels a shame to miss out on any Speed competition practice before Tokyo.

[Fiend]

 

[Duma]

janja fastest non specialist in qualifying then 14.47 in finals? did she fall asleep?

[jwi]

Just checked the ifsc webpage and saw that Kiromal Katibin broke the world record in speed by quite a bit in the qualifiers in Salt Lake. 5.25 seconds compared to the old record of 5.48

Oh well, the record stood for a few hours until his landsman Leonardo Veddriq made a 5.21 s run in the finals.
https://www.grimper.com/news-vitesse-deux-records-monde-tombent-coup-coup-salt-lake-city

[tomtom]

Ondra’s pulled out. To stop further aggravation of a shoulder niggle.

[Duma]

anyway, back to the proper stuff, Qualification this afternoon/eve from 1500 on the app
Semis from 4 tomorrow on YT:

Finals from 11:

[sherlock]

Miho impressive for a non specialist.

[Duma]

think I've got the time for qualis wrong as Alex waterhouse has posted on IG that he'll be livestreaming from 630pm BST?

[WillRobertson]

That'll be after he's climbed presumably.

Scores are updating, Tomoa looking on ominous form already...

Edit to add: 1600 BST start time for qualis today.

[Duma]

Alex waterhouse's IG is live now

[Bradders]

Reckon it'll be another fairly high bar to make semis for the men by the looks of it.

[sherlock]

Where's Jacob Schubert? Am l missing something on the app? Always a possibility.

Edit just seen his IG.