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[Peak][Western Quarries][various routes][E3 5c] (Read 1219 times)

Fiend

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100% guaranteed not to have any shambolic under-grading, nor need headpointing to repeat, nor rely on crucial out-of-production micro-gear  :2thumbsup:






John Henry Quarry:
Pirate Error E3 5c *
The cleaned line right of Cragster (actually where the topo shows Cragster finishing). Start at a weakness several metres right of Cragster. Climb the lower wall to a sloping break and traverse left to gain the "staircase". From the top of this continue up the thin crack past an obtuse crux to gain blocky holds, and keep motoring up to finish. Lots of medium cams.




Cracken Edge:
Summon The Cracken E3 5c *
The obvious steep line right of Cratos, via a thin crack through the bulge. Climb directly into the hanging corner and make powerful moves out past crimps, a sloping jam, and a crucial cam. Keep cranking up the photogenic headwall to finish.




Broadbottom Quarry:
Broadside E3 5c *
The steep sidewall adjacent to Elder Wall. Climb Elderberry Crack for 5m to some gear slots. Swing right and up to gain a high handledge, then make excellent moves up the thin crack via a sharp jam and small cams to gain the break. Keep pushing past the hourglass cracks to pop out onto the ledge out right. Either lower off the sapling, continue up the slab to an excavated mantel and scramble to trees, or escape on a pre-placed ab rope. Lots of small cams.



Also fuck knows what the forum software is doing with Facebook photo links and image sizes but WHATEVER

Will Hunt

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Would-be repeaters advised to get in quick before the next stiff breeze knocks them down  ;)

Nice one, Matt.

Fiend

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Heh, the amount of excavating I did to reach solid rock, I'm sure they'll be fine....

Falling Down

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Fantastic stuff Fiend. I used to be able to see Cracken Edge from my bedroom window for years (I can see my old house in the photo) and hardly ever climbed there. Brilliant.

 

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