[shark]

11.3-6 average 158.8 (up 0.1lb)

M. Woke up to some snow! Head in bad place after a shitty Sunday. AM Warm up mainly trying Oak throw move. PM Malham climbing with Paul. Blue skies (forecast was cloudy) 3 degrees and biting wind on walk in. Sheltered on Catwalk and more like 30degrees. Lay around in sun and even had a nap for best part of 3 hours. Felt terrible stripping draws out Yosemite Wall and took several rests. 3 tie ins on Oak. First go mainly playing around on throw. Second doing throw and doing links on traverse. Felt utterly desperate. No bite on gastons. Third had a couple of attempts at throw and came down and called it a day. Awful session maybe best forgotten about. Hope it’s just a blip and not dug myself into a hole or at the end of some cycle. Hard to pinpoint what went so badly wrong though as it could have been one or a combination of several physical, mental and conditions factors.

T.

W.

T. AM set of recruitment and speed pulls. PM Malham climbing with Paul. 7degrees Cloud cover as promised but wind was catching crag and it was Baltic. Did Consenting but got cold. Couple of tie ins. But wearing 4 layers on top and thermals and stretch pants. Struggled on the moves. Went for a walk to the top but still didn’t get warm enough. 3rd go sacked it off and stripped route. Not get anywhere and not enjoying it. Amazing to watch Eder redpoint Rainshadow (12th ascent? after Steve, Ondra, Jordan, Ben, Stu, Wil, Ryan, Buster, Pete Dawson, Toby Roberts, Josh Ibbertson). Had two dogging goes up Mescalito and thoroughly enjoyed it despite windy alpine conditions. Will probably stick with that next week as it will be an enjoyable way to get a next level of fitness and replenish some psyche.

F. Set of recruitment and speed pulls. Tor. Nice day. Bens. Pottered on cross through move and still undecided. Stretching had definitely helped when trying to do high drop knee but still need better range of movement to do it this way. Ended up doing the whole thing in 4 sections
Eve Max hangs sessions. Decided to try shorter hangs (4sec) and even higher added weight (up to 40kg)

S.

S.

Big downer this week. Lost all psyche for the Oak but now motivated to do Mescalito and acquire some endurance in the process.

Would be good to retry Bens Without when fresh especially now I’m a bit lighter but suspect that I’m going to be repeatedly shut down by the cross through move.

Not mentioned it before but for a long time Ive done upper body stretches at least once a week to address back issues especially my chronically inflexible upper back, correct kyphosis and improve shoulder flexibility. Goat has improved his lower body flexibility significantly by regularly following Wil Bosi’s stretching video (below) so I’m going to add that to the mix. Definitely could get my foot higher to attempt the drop knee method for the cross through on Bens so there is a specific incentive too.

[Wellsy]

M: Rested

T: Tried to go out to get back on Breakfast 7A. Got there, warmed up on a couple of 5s, and then the snow came in and got the pads etc soaking. Decided to sack it off and go home, had a long board session to make myself feel better.

Wednesday: Rested

Thursday: Got out to Burbage West and this time did manage to spend a decent amount of time wrecking my skin on Breakfast. Made two moves' progress and go to what I think is essentially the crux i.e. releasing the heel-toe cam and staying on so I can do the heel hook and get my right toe on the inside edge. Was very psyched to be making progress on what I hope to be my first 7A outdoors! Had a short board session post just to work a few moves and make the best of the day.

Friday: Was feeling absolutely blasted by the previous day, loved it.

Saturday and Sunday: Decided to have a few extra rest days other than doing some light core, stretching, taking a nice long walk etc in order to allow the skin and body to feel really nice fresh for the return to the Climbing Works on Monday. Might have a light board session this evening just to keep everything mobile though. My friend also sent me a video of him trying Tracksides which makes me really want to go and get on it!

[User deactivated.]

M - rest + mobility

T - max hangs half crimp, back 3 and front 3. Managed to add 2.5kg breaking my plateau (i think repeaters have got me through it).

W - Wharncliffe. Tried kobe, nails! Couldn't do the first half of the problem but it's spectacular and I'll keep trying. Did from the bicycle to the end which is a good problem on its own!

Noticed the overhanging arete to the right of kobe, which is a striking and fairly long line, but couldn't find any info on it. Cleaned it up and worked out a sequence that felt 7A ish. Worthwhile warm up for anyone planning on trying kobe: https://www.instagram.com/p/CNXwIZrpF7S/?igshid=1hubv6rkt91ml

T - rest + mobility

F - am - repeaters, pm - OAC, handstand pressups, front lever rows, nordic curls, L-sits

S - DH biking at Wharncliffe

S - tried Woolley Edge quarry seeing as though it's possibly my closest crag at a 20 min drive from Morley. What a great venue! Roadside, yet secluded in a wooded area, and some really good climbing. Warmed up on some 6's then did gazelle 7A+, lesson in depth 7B (4 times to try and get a nice video!), close on wayfinder 7C+ (just need to suss out the 1st move), then cleaned and climbed an unrecorded boulder which looks like it's not been done and felt 6C ish (maybe bit harder but who knows). Plenty more to go at here and lots of unclimbed stuff so I'll definitely be spending more time here.

[Will Hunt]

A complete write off. Spent Monday hunched over painting decking boards for the new raised bed. Tuesday morning was walking up the stairs when I felt my trapezius go. I'm not really sure what's happening here. It's happened before where I'll have spent a day slogging up a hill with badly packed bouldering mats or some other thing that's bad for the posture. It must weaken/fatigue the muscle and then I'll be doing the most mundane thing (has happened when stepping out of the shower before) and it just "goes". I then spend the next few days walking round like a painkiller addicted hunchback of Notre Dame and frequently rolling around on a tennis ball. Is this what pulling a muscle is?

It feels like it's starting to loosen up. Hopefully not too long before climbing can resume.

[csl]

April Goals
Do another >= 7B
Outside x5 (including London boulders) 1/5
4x hilly walks (or box steps) per week. 4/4

Monday

Hills laps in morning

Tuesday

Re-test of benchmarks on max hangs and 1 armers. PB's on everything apart from 3 finger drag. I seem to have gained 4kg in the last few months, but I don't mind because I've got a lot stronger for it.

Wednesday

Hills laps in morning

Thursday

Hills laps in morning

Shoreditch Park after work. Got close on a 7A+ but needed to get back for dinner.

Friday

Assisted 1 armers

Saturday

Rest

Sunday

14 mile walk
10mm hangs +5kg - pb for this, usually find it nails and need to take weight off.
Boulder Doubles on board.

Will be getting back to the wall this week, looking forward to realising the hardest thing on my board is 4+. Then hoping to get out bouldering next weekend.

[dunnyg]

Mon- Mooched round bat buttress in the sun feeling sorry for myself due to dodgy pulley. 15 < f5boulder problems and a 6Cish thing. Keen to return for a few things.

Tu-  MTB 16km, 200m. Leg stretch.

Wed-
Thurs-

Fri- Walk round chevin, and a did Calf Arere (F2) at Ilkley, managing to not strain my pulley...

Sat-

Sun- Run, 14km, 540m height gain. Leg stretch.

Pulley feels almost right. Will give it another day or 2, then test it on the rock. Lazy week, should run more regularly. I enjoy it when I can persuade myself to get out. Keen to get back on it.

[Duma]

M - Run, 5k, hilly, trail, 23:50. Then DIY, then 12 hr night shift.
T - Nothing, 12hr night shift.
W - Nothing, 12hr night shift.
T - pm board, 1hr, ok ish, hard to pull hard so soon after waking up. 12hr night shift.
F - Nothing, mostly sleeping. Was going to fb in eve but fell asleep on the sofa
S - pm board, 1hr, mostly easier things and volume. Good session.
S - gentle mtb circuit with daughter. Eve belayed mate at Avon but didn't climb.

70 kg.

[SA Chris]

A complete write off. Spent Monday hunched over painting decking boards for the new raised bed. Tuesday morning was walking up the stairs when I felt my trapezius go. I'm not really sure what's happening here. It's happened before where I'll have spent a day slogging up a hill with badly packed bouldering mats or some other thing that's bad for the posture. It must weaken/fatigue the muscle and then I'll be doing the most mundane thing (has happened when stepping out of the shower before) and it just "goes". I then spend the next few days walking round like a painkiller addicted hunchback of Notre Dame and frequently rolling around on a tennis ball. Is this what pulling a muscle is?

Yup. Mine goes once or twice a year. It will sometimes feel wonk, and then I do whatever i can to stop it completely "going", stretches, massage stick, hockey ball,  roller, but at some point in the next 2 weeks or so it will just go, usually doing something unexpected like getting into car, picking up toothbrush, or  drinking coffee. I then have a day or so of intense pain, only lying on a hard floor doesn't hurt. One of the few times I reach for the Neurofen, as I know what works and how long it will last. After a couple of days the pain subsides, and I go onto some light exercise to sort it out, usually I find just  hanging off a pull up bar and gradually increasing load on arms until I can get both feet off, and then just doing 10 second hangs with stretching in between. Usually OK within 5 days. For the last year or so I've started doing bent over dumbbell rows on the side of a bench or chairs once every couple of weeks and it seems to have helped prevent recurrences.

My brother is the same height as me, and has exactly the same issue, only slightly lower down.

[gollum]

W/C 5/4/21

M- Abs/core, pulls, yoga and stretching, max pulls
T - Density hangs, abs, compression, yoga and stretching
W - Almscliffe, yoga and stretching, abs, legs, wrist and arms, small edges, pinches.
T - Abs/ core, pulls and shoulders, yoga and stretching, max hangs
F - Ilkley, abs, density hangs, compression, wrists, yoga and stretching
S - Abs, stretching and yoga
S - Easy abs, stretching and yoga

Another week when I can get out and about, slowly getting back into actually climbing and the movement of it all.

M - Start with core and standard, if unimaginative five minute plank, five front levers, three back levers, weighted hollow bodies and 60 steady roll outs.
Supported OAP for 5 sets, one arm locks and pull ups for speed. Scapular work to finish.
Yoga for hamstrings and stretching for upper body.
Set of 10x10 seconds max pulls with the Tindeq, solid numbers.

T - Busy doing jobs, so don’t get started until the afternoon. Start with 6x30 seconds density hangs.
On to abs with 3x3 minute planks, floor routine and 50 paused roll outs.
Prone TRX Ts, Ys and Is, isometric compression holds.
Yoga for hips and stretching for splits, with an additional session for pancakes in the evening.

W - Go up to Almscliffe in the morning. Sun’s out a bit but mostly crag is in shade and wind is blowing. We go to Black Wall and it’s great and probably as dry as I’ve seen it with neither broken bottles nor a pool of cow shit under it. I do lots of problems and work on lots of others. Everyone gets something done that they’d wanted to do and we all have something to go back for. Walking down it’s obvious rest of crag is still bloody freezing, so we’d made a good call for our three hour session.
Back home and do yoga for shoulders which also feels like it’s releasing my lower back. Stretching is for the upper body.
Wednesday zen roll outs for 120.
Do 3x3 pistol squats and glute bridges, which certainly feels like my hamstring is recovered. Move on to wrist curls and the dreaded wrist roller for three sets of each. Finish weights with 3x10 bicep curls and tricep extensions.
For fingers do some small edge hangs for 6x10 seconds on 6mm edges. Then do 6 sets with square pinch and 3 with flared pinch. Really pleased fingers are still strong at end of day as did lots of pulling on both small holds and pinches this morning.

T - Start with plank for seven and a half minutes, safe to say by the end I was in full body shake. A steady 60 roll outs followed by some bar work of levers and windscreen wipers.
5x5 weighted pull ups, working up to 44k added. Lock offs combo 3x10 seconds per position on each set (full, 90°, 120°) with 20k added. Move on to some scapular strengthening work. Finish with three sets of shoulder combo, with a band but no tests between sets, which feels tough, although also with a lighter band feels like a cracking way to warm the shoulders up.
Yoga for back flexibility, followed by stretching for splits.
Max hangs for 10x5 seconds; bodyweight for two sets, +2 for two, +4 for two, +2 for two and finish with bodyweight for two again. Feels very solid throughout. Also had watched a clip on YouTube this week that explained how velocity hangs work and how to do them, so do three sets.

F - Get up to Ilkley nice and early to avoid the crowds. Round trying First Arête for about an hour but can’t keep hands warm and am making no progress, so decide to get out of the only shaded spot in Wharfedale and go back to the much warmer Calf. Great session, start by doing Calf Classic first go and then again for the camera, although balls that up and capture it in time lapse but can’t be bothered doing it a third time. Then get up several of the middle difficulty problems from SR’s guidebook quickly and make good progress on several more all in the kinda 7A to 7B range. Solid on this bit of rock at the moment and most pleased that can rock up and suss the starting footholds straight away, which I’ve always found tricky and has always been an indicator of how I’m going. By the time I leave the car park is packed and some of the parking dreadful.
Get home and straight into abs session. 3x3 minutes planks, floor routine and 50 easy roll outs.
Density hangs for 6x30 seconds. This definitely feels the right level as barely taxes me but helps strengthen the tendons and get some blood flowing.
TRX prone Ts, Is and Ys, isometric compression holds and press ups. Some wrist roller and wrist curls.
Yoga is twists, wrists and feet and stretching is for the upper body.

S - 25 hard roll outs and starting to put a decent pause on some of the reps. Stretching for splits and yoga for hands and wrists.

S - 50 easy roll outs, yoga for abs and stretching for upper body.

A good week, starting to relearn what are footholds and what aren’t.

Body still taking a battering in lower back and ankles falling off stuff, but sure that will pass.

Having managed at least one in each of the last weeks, reckon I’ll aim for 20 problems of 7B or harder by the end of the year, fingers crossed. Might be over ambitious but will see.

Looking forward to stuff opening up next week and then I don’t have to train in my hallway anymore and I can be “that fucking guy.”

[SA Chris]

M - 8.5 k run in the snow and cold. Got back to athletics to find they had finished session early due to weather and son was standing about with coaches waiting for me to get back. I was that guy..
T - Deadhangs - max.
W - Surf. First evening surf of the year and first time in the water since October. After northerlies of the previous week, it's fucking huge, head high on sets. I opt for longboard, ack of fitness water time and excess weight stop me from getting on anything smaller. Get in and realise I have no way or even much desire to get out back, have to content myself with laying on some reforms on the inner sandbars and seeing some people get a few great rides out back.
T - Some kettlebells, but feeling pretty ragged.
F - a bit of light stretching and weights.
S - Morning surf. A lot friendlier, mellow sets, some good waves until forecasted winds pick up, and it ends up a choppy mess. Afternoon walk.
S - up to Cranhill with kids and mate with his two. Spend most of the time spotting, don't even get shoes on. Afternoon walk.

[User deactivated.]

Round trying First Arête for about an hour but can’t keep hands warm and am making no progress

The hardest 7A+ in the known universe strikes again!

[Will Hunt]

A complete write off. Spent Monday hunched over painting decking boards for the new raised bed. Tuesday morning was walking up the stairs when I felt my trapezius go. I'm not really sure what's happening here. It's happened before where I'll have spent a day slogging up a hill with badly packed bouldering mats or some other thing that's bad for the posture. It must weaken/fatigue the muscle and then I'll be doing the most mundane thing (has happened when stepping out of the shower before) and it just "goes". I then spend the next few days walking round like a painkiller addicted hunchback of Notre Dame and frequently rolling around on a tennis ball. Is this what pulling a muscle is?

Yup. Mine goes once or twice a year. It will sometimes feel wonk, and then I do whatever i can to stop it completely "going", stretches, massage stick, hockey ball,  roller, but at some point in the next 2 weeks or so it will just go, usually doing something unexpected like getting into car, picking up toothbrush, or  drinking coffee. I then have a day or so of intense pain, only lying on a hard floor doesn't hurt. One of the few times I reach for the Neurofen, as I know what works and how long it will last. After a couple of days the pain subsides, and I go onto some light exercise to sort it out, usually I find just  hanging off a pull up bar and gradually increasing load on arms until I can get both feet off, and then just doing 10 second hangs with stretching in between. Usually OK within 5 days. For the last year or so I've started doing bent over dumbbell rows on the side of a bench or chairs once every couple of weeks and it seems to have helped prevent recurrences.

My brother is the same height as me, and has exactly the same issue, only slightly lower down.

Kind of relieved to hear that it isn't just me. Whatever it is I don't think the injury itself affects my climbing too much, it's more that I can't bear to turn my head at all, or fall off and put strain on it when landing. I'll have to dig out the old physio exercises.

[User deactivated.]

A complete write off. Spent Monday hunched over painting decking boards for the new raised bed. Tuesday morning was walking up the stairs when I felt my trapezius go. I'm not really sure what's happening here. It's happened before where I'll have spent a day slogging up a hill with badly packed bouldering mats or some other thing that's bad for the posture. It must weaken/fatigue the muscle and then I'll be doing the most mundane thing (has happened when stepping out of the shower before) and it just "goes". I then spend the next few days walking round like a painkiller addicted hunchback of Notre Dame and frequently rolling around on a tennis ball. Is this what pulling a muscle is?

Yup. Mine goes once or twice a year. It will sometimes feel wonk, and then I do whatever i can to stop it completely "going", stretches, massage stick, hockey ball,  roller, but at some point in the next 2 weeks or so it will just go, usually doing something unexpected like getting into car, picking up toothbrush, or  drinking coffee. I then have a day or so of intense pain, only lying on a hard floor doesn't hurt. One of the few times I reach for the Neurofen, as I know what works and how long it will last. After a couple of days the pain subsides, and I go onto some light exercise to sort it out, usually I find just  hanging off a pull up bar and gradually increasing load on arms until I can get both feet off, and then just doing 10 second hangs with stretching in between. Usually OK within 5 days. For the last year or so I've started doing bent over dumbbell rows on the side of a bench or chairs once every couple of weeks and it seems to have helped prevent recurrences.

My brother is the same height as me, and has exactly the same issue, only slightly lower down.

Kind of relieved to hear that it isn't just me. Whatever it is I don't think the injury itself affects my climbing too much, it's more that I can't bear to turn my head at all, or fall off and put strain on it when landing. I'll have to dig out the old physio exercises.

I suffered similar for a long time, several times a year. It feels like a nerve thing where it sends the muscle into spasm and it locks up for a few days, but that might be completely wrong, just what it feels like. Usually this is in the traps like yours, or in the neck and it hurts to turn my head or lift my arm.

It hasn't happened in possibly a year now, which I put down to mobilising my thoracic spine as part of my every-other-day mobility routine. It actually seemed to happen more frequently when I used to lift heavy (with good form), so it was not a weakness issue, but a stiffness one.

My routine for the upper back involves a few exercises/stretches, but I feel like the last one provides most of the benefit. First I roll around on a foam roller for a few minutes to loosen up, and then a lacrosse ball for a few more minutes to get deeper into the muscles. Second, I go through a few iterations of cobra and child's pose, holding each for around 20s. Finally, and what I think is doing the work, I lay on my back, arms by my side, sort of backwards roll my legs over my head (slowly to start with) keeping my upper back in contact with the floor and my feet touching the floor behind my head. Hold this for 20 seconds or so then rock backwards and forwards carefully to go a bit further into it. I couldn't even get my feet to the floor initially, now it is very easy and to make it more effective, I touch one knee to the floor at a time over my head, which I think is very very dodgy as it twists the spine a bit it this flexed position, but I go carefully and get a phenomenal stretch from it and so far it's doing me wonders.

[RobK]

M - Rest.

T - Max hangs at +29kg, all complete. Looking forward to moving on to +30kg just because it is far less faffy in terms of weight plates needed! Followed with 45 minutes on the board mostly playing on the Flick project. Made a bit of progress and also looked at making up a new one. Finished with 20 minutes of 1 minute on/off on board jugs. Been neglecting this for a while so pumpier than it would have been a month or so ago.

W - Crimpd 80% repeaters at +15kg. All complete. Finished with some levers and TRX rows.

T - Back to Bickerton with a couple of friends. Glad they were keen as I wanted a spot for Ramp Up, quite scary having a good heel above your head! With them there I was able to commit to the move and got into the headwall proper. I could just about get set up for the final move but didn’t ever feel like I was going to manage it. Probably really good to be trying this as it is very anti-style for me. All off-balance arete kind of moves and everything is open handed. At one point I fell off and screamed something along the lines of “I just want to crimp something!!”. Flash of a nice 6C afterwards, there are some good lower grade problems here.

F - Rest. 25 minute run.

S - Max hangs at +30kg. Surprisingly all complete with good form.

S - Roof of the Baby Buddha. Wow, what a problem. Spent a good few hours figuring it out and think I settled on a sequence. Did all the moves bar the cut loose and a few half-decent links. Really psyched by this which is very rare for me when it comes to boulders! Keen to go back with fresh skin if temps don’t allow for ropes and/or I’m partner-less.

Fingerboard scores continue to progress nicely. Since January I’ve added about 7kg to my max hangs and 10kg to my repeater session. I’d really like to keep riding this while it’s still working for me (after stagnating for nearly the whole of December and January) but equally this past week or two I have had occasional pulley niggles during sessions. Very very minor and maybe it is just a case of not warming up sufficiently but at the same time I don’t want to be that guy that ignored the warning signs. Basically I’m torn between carrying on with what I’m doing and stopping and doing a block of something like density hangs to sure things up. We’ll see. Maybe a mixture of the two.

[SA Chris]

A complete write off. Spent Monday hunched over painting decking boards for the new raised bed. Tuesday morning was walking up the stairs when I felt my trapezius go. I'm not really sure what's happening here. It's happened before where I'll have spent a day slogging up a hill with badly packed bouldering mats or some other thing that's bad for the posture. It must weaken/fatigue the muscle and then I'll be doing the most mundane thing (has happened when stepping out of the shower before) and it just "goes". I then spend the next few days walking round like a painkiller addicted hunchback of Notre Dame and frequently rolling around on a tennis ball. Is this what pulling a muscle is?

Yup. Mine goes once or twice a year. It will sometimes feel wonk, and then I do whatever i can to stop it completely "going", stretches, massage stick, hockey ball,  roller, but at some point in the next 2 weeks or so it will just go, usually doing something unexpected like getting into car, picking up toothbrush, or  drinking coffee. I then have a day or so of intense pain, only lying on a hard floor doesn't hurt. One of the few times I reach for the Neurofen, as I know what works and how long it will last. After a couple of days the pain subsides, and I go onto some light exercise to sort it out, usually I find just  hanging off a pull up bar and gradually increasing load on arms until I can get both feet off, and then just doing 10 second hangs with stretching in between. Usually OK within 5 days. For the last year or so I've started doing bent over dumbbell rows on the side of a bench or chairs once every couple of weeks and it seems to have helped prevent recurrences.

My brother is the same height as me, and has exactly the same issue, only slightly lower down.

Kind of relieved to hear that it isn't just me. Whatever it is I don't think the injury itself affects my climbing too much, it's more that I can't bear to turn my head at all, or fall off and put strain on it when landing. I'll have to dig out the old physio exercises.

Age comes to us all Will! Forgot to add, Zen Viber massager helps when it goes and feels really tight afterwards. I don't regard it as an injury, just a tweak.

[SA Chris]

M - 8.5 k run in the snow and cold. Got back to athletics to find they had finished session early due to weather and son was standing about with coaches waiting for me to get back. I was that guy..
T - Deadhangs - max.
W - Surf. First evening surf of the year and first time in the water since October. After northerlies of the previous week, it's fucking huge, head high on sets. I opt for longboard, ack of fitness water time and excess weight stop me from getting on anything smaller. Get in and realise I have no way or even much desire to get out back, have to content myself with laying on some reforms on the inner sandbars and seeing some people get a few great rides out back.
T - Some kettlebells, but feeling pretty ragged.
F - a bit of light stretching and weights.
S - Morning surf. A lot friendlier, mellow sets, some good waves until forecasted winds pick up, and it ends up a choppy mess. Afternoon walk.
S - up to Cranhill with kids and mate with his two. Spend most of the time spotting, don't even get shoes on. Afternoon walk.

Forgot T - bike to garage in pissing rain to get car.
s - 4 x 4s on the board. Feeling a bit clunky after no actual climbing for over a week.

[tommytwotone]

MTG: Shipley Glen "Alternative Circuit" in a day
LTG: Font 7a

M: Shipley with the kids - pretty challenging day as baltic wind was whipping across the top when we arrived which dented the kids' already low psyche I think. Despite finding a lovely sunny / warm spot out the wind under the edge they were not bothered about climbing. Got a bit grumpy, went up to Mike's Wall again, fell off it a few more times. Did a couple of other things including Don't Fall Off, which is really quite good.

T: Surprise solo pass so hot-footed it back to The Glen in mint connies. Started the circuit and the north end to see how far I could get. First few problems were fine, finally cracked Good Evans (6a) but upper section was a bit damp to scuttled off.

Manufactured a landing of sorts using some logs and branches under Mike's Wall which helped gain a bit of confidence, and think I have the crux sorted, just a mental thing now.

Got as far as Lurcher (another banger I hadn't done), before an epic snow / hail / sleet storm blew in and stopped play, which was a shame I despite thin tips I felt like I was getting a second wind.

Rest of week: work

[spidermonkey09]

T- rest

W - rest. Attempted an evening hit at Gigg but baltic conditions were not good for psych. Did a slabby 5 and numbed out!

T - back to Malham for quick session after work. Freezing cold but mint. Absolutely minced the lower section on the Oak first go and made it to the horn easily. Dry fired off stretching out right to tufa pocket. Two more quickfire goes where I got to the horn pretty steadily but numbed out. Tweaked sequence to make the move smaller and more precise. Feel like I could have got close with warmer hands but more progress.

F - rest

S - Malham. Felt knackered after only one rest day. Weird first go where the footholds on lower wall felt slippy and impossibly to weight. In hindsight I think keeping my shoes in my jacket may have softened the rubber - rookie error. Linked from third bolt to top after a few failed goes from deck. Second go an hour or so later was better, fell off matching horn and then did third bolt to top again, followed by horn to top. Totally wasted after this. More good progress, when I next get through to the horn and am not totally broken I think I should get further.

S - Gigg North. intended to go on Illywacker but left bicep felt tweaky so had an easy day.

Planning a quieter week in order to look after tweaky arm and hopefully get close on midweek session / the weekend. Might try and go to the wall a bit as haven't trained for a few weeks now.

[Nibile]

Power Club
Mon - weights. Snatch, clean, press. Very tired from log splitting again.
Tue - rest.
Wed - PE low 30/10 x6. Ok. 1/45" x3 x2, very happy. Second go at the limit. Snatch DL 5x5 90 kg. High pulls, bar work, overhead carry 4'. Very happy about the PE.
Thu - weights, tired and bored.
Fri - rest.
Sat - one arm dumbbell snatch pull x5 and snatch x5 and 1' overhead walk x6. Goblet squat 10x5. Hill sprints.
Sun - Lattice edge pick ups 60 kg x10. Could have gone forever. Cleans 5x7 up to 62 kg which felt light. Snatch pulls. Snatch. Pull ups 30" finisher just barely. Tired.

[Duncan Disorderly]

M: Bouldering @ Froggatt - With the imminemt limestone call I decided to buck the trend and get on the grit 
Went looking for 7A(ish) tech walls or slabs, was spammed by Choad King (aka Fiend) on FB so thought I'd go have a look at Steamboat - couldn't find it so ended up at Glass Slipper which I did a while back... Nice sheltered spot and nobody there so had a potter... Went up and down the big flake a few times to warmup and then did the 6B+ to the arete (wasn't fancying the top out on me tod)... Got stuck into Glass Slipper - Couldn't touch it at first, worked it all out over about 3/4 hour and finally pinnged off going for the finishing jug (LH ping - right at the top!!) due to the high arete being greasy! Spooked me a bit, didn't have a long brush and was getting cold so bailed... Happy to know that I'd done all the hard stuff and really enjoyed the process...
T: Routes @ Colehill - First time at this venue, good crag. Did a few 6's then got snowed off while looking at the 7's - Arse!
W: Routes at Stoney - Warmup then bail! Fucking freezing!
T: Shoulder stability and elbows.
F: Nowt
S: Bouldering @ Widdop - Was up there to visit a mate  (socially distanced of course!) so had an hour with the GF - Did loads of classics up to about 6B+ (Pickpockets, Splashdown, 4 Square etc.) Great!
S: Accidental hangover! Planned to get out but late start and cragside reports ranged from, baltic to hail to snow! Sacked it off and trained indoors. BM repeaters, board - set new problem = 15 moves couldn't do all moves at first, worked it down to two moves... Had a good rest then finally worked these out too... Linking feels like the living end - for now! Great!

In the week that the lime is called I start climbing grit for the first time in bloody ages! 
Changeable conditions have been pretty frustrating but still managed to do a fair bit - glad the wall's opening this week as I'd have just gone indoors - however I really enjoyed the bouldering in the end so it's all good!

[JohnM]

M - Trail run 27.88km 940m

T - Rest

W - Shoulder recruitment + core, TRX, bicep curls (hammer and normal), hamstring exercises.

T - Trail run 16.75km 684m. Hamstring exercises and assisted one leg squats and lunges.

F - Trail run 11.81km 554m.

S - Everesting training 18.77km + ~2km vertical.

S - Skitouring 20.5km 1412m. Felt strong on the way up but then my legs were destroyed and I could barely ski down. Got down with a combination of sideways sliding, snow ploughing and falling.

A good week for stamina training in the hills and I managed to keep my knee tendon problem at bay with lots of hamstring work and stretching. I found that doing squats exacerbates my knee issue and I probably don't need to generate stronger quads and just strengthen the hamstring. Another week off climbing after I injured the ring finger flexor in my wrist. This is first time in my climbing career that I have properly rested after an injury and it seems to be paying off. The wrist got better pretty rapidly and I can no longer generate a sharp twinge or pain there. However, the recovery seems to have leveled off and I now just have a consistent level of "gamminess" in the wrist. It will be two weeks since I injured it this Wednesday so I will try and load my fingers for the first time and see how it goes and hopefully climb on rock at the weekend.

[Coops_13]

Weight Prep for summer is working, down 2kg in 3 weeks

M: Density pickups 20mm 40s LH 40lb *1, 45lb *3, RH 35lb *2 4 finger, 25lb *1 HC, 30lb *1 HC. Legs. Leg press, calf raise, knee extension, hamstring curl. X15 *3sets. Squats up to 165lb X5 *3sets. Started RDL but finger untaped so going to leave RDL for when finger is much better

T: 10 press-up, 8 pull-up, 5 shoulder press, 5 bicep curl *5sets. First time doing pull-ups without pulley ring - still on fat grips though

W: Density pickups 20mm 40s LH 40lb *1, 45lb *3, RH 35lb *2 4 finger, 30lb *2 HC. TA Max Hangs - 20 mm, 7s hangs -20lb X1, -15lb X1, -10lb X1, -5lb X1, BW X3. LH MH - 25mm, 7s hangs -35lb X2, -30lb X2. 15 mins HIIT (Cardio, core, antag)

T: Density pickups 20mm 40s LH 40lb *1, 45lb *3, RH 35lb *2 4 finger, 30lb *2 HC.

F: Hike up Bear Peak 8458ft and South Boulder Peak 8524ft with pup. 9.3 miles, 3200ft ascent

S: Density pickups 20mm 40s LH 40lb *1, 45lb *3, RH 30lb *4 HC.

S: Density pickups 20mm 40s LH 40lb *1, 45lb *3, RH 30lb *4 HC. 5 mile hike in CCC, 800ft ascent. DBC, first indoors since rupture, 10 weeks to the day.  TA Max Hangs - 20 mm, 7s hangs -25lb, -20lb X1, -15lb X1, -10lb X1, -5lb X1, BW X2, +5lb X2. LH MH - 25mm, 7s hangs -35lb X2. Easy bouldering (probably up to V2), did all the E and E+ in the centre, maybe 25 problems. All felt OK but hard to trust the finger. Finished with pull-ups EMOM X5 *10mins.

Good to get indoors again, will hopefully build back some session fitness and endurance in finger

[Bradders]

In hindsight I think keeping my shoes in my jacket may have softened the rubber - rookie error.

Just out of interest, and bearing in mind I've never been to Malham, how is that a bad thing?

[ali k]

In hindsight I think keeping my shoes in my jacket may have softened the rubber - rookie error.

Just out of interest, and bearing in mind I've never been to Malham, how is that a bad thing?

Warm soft rubber would be good for polished slopey footholds on lime (like a lot at Malham) or grit. But not small edges where you want it stiff. The Oak has some small edges low down to stand on. I think that's what Jim means.

[spidermonkey09]

Yep. Total conjecture from me but it sort of makes sense in my head! Really small edges on the bottom half which I just felt like I was rolling off.