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Route Endurance on a fingerboard / woody (Read 4455 times)

Fultonius

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Route Endurance on a fingerboard / woody
April 09, 2021, 12:26:13 pm
Right folks, I've got 5/6 weeks to get fit.

My fingers are OK (not a great loss since this time last year), but I've done very little endurance all year really. Usually my low end base endurance (aero) is quite good.

What would be your top tips for getting fit?my board is 35 and has some bigger holds, but not really enough to make bigger circuits. I could order more.

And I have a BM2k.


So far, I've had one session doing circuits at dumby, but I expect most of my training is going to have to be indoors due to travel restrictions.

SA Chris

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How big is your board? Mine is pretty small and I've got a circa 18 move circuit on old school crimps that gets me pumped out of my gourd.

rjtrials

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What type of routes do you need the fitness for?  This will make a huge difference on how you train.

csl

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I do low end endurance on my board with my feet on the floor, you can easily vary the difficulty for longer stints of aerocap this way.

I think foot on campussing is the best way to get fit for pumpy routes in a short period, you could easily do similar on a board. Just get some holds and ladder up and down them until you can’t hold on anymore, then rest for the same amount of time you climbed for and repeat.

Ged

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I've got a pretty limited campus board type setup in my shed, that I've used to get in pretty good shape. I do a mixture of foot on moving around the board for minute on, 2 mins off, building up to minute and a half on, minute and a half off (about 7 reps), and then also do lower intensity feet on the floor 10 mins on 10 mins off. That combo seems to work. Just get some good podcasts as it's pretty mind numbing!

spidermonkey09

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Anderson hangs for shorter power endurance routes are excellent. I'm sure there is a thread somewhere from the first lockdown explaining the protocol.

Ged

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Are they basically.repeaters?

spidermonkey09

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SA Chris

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Anderson hangs for shorter power endurance routes are excellent.

Ah. Mr Anderson. I've been expecting you.

Fultonius

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Thanks all. Mainly for trad really.

I've done 400m of ladder climbing (wind turbines) in the last 3 days, front 2 and back 3 today for extra impact.


rjtrials

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Ladder climbing is the best kind of fitness.

I have had great success with on the minute bouldering.  Roughly hard flash/ 2go boulders.  Work the sessions into the 20-30+ minute mark (might take 6-12 sessions to get there).

FWIW I mostly sport climb and the routes i climb are quite bouldery with good rest options.

Fultonius

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What type of routes do you need the fitness for?  This will make a huge difference on how you train.

Nothing specific!  General base fitness for trad. Doubt I'll get much sport done this year until later in the year.

Adam Lincoln

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Thanks all. Mainly for trad really.

I've done 400m of ladder climbing (wind turbines) in the last 3 days, front 2 and back 3 today for extra impact.

Thought it was just me that did that 🤣

I also pull up 2 miles of rope a day for core and low end endurance.

MischaHY

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Considering you have a board 4x4x4 is a good shout.

Set 4 problems at around 60% intensity so a couple of grades below flash grade. Make sure they don't have any weird/skin intensive/low percentage moves.

Climb these 4 problems back to back with 3-5 secs pause between each one to rechalk. Once you've completed them all, rest for 1 minute. Complete the circuit another 3 times with 1 minute breaks, then rest for 5 minutes.

Take that block and repeat it again for a total of 4 blocks.

More simply:

(4 problems x 4 reps with 5 second pause)

4 sets with 1 minute rest/set.

4 blocks of 4 sets with 5 mins rest between blocks.

You'll be absolutely annihilated afterwards but it's amazing fitness training. Pretty sure I remember the Big O has a video about doing this somewhere on YouTube.

Ged

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Jeez, so 64 problems in total?!

SA Chris

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How many going to St Ives?

You'll be absolutely annihilated afterwards but it's amazing fitness training.

I bet.

MischaHY

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Jeez, so 64 problems in total?!

Yeah exactly, hence why it's important to get the intensity right and avoid moves that wrag the skin or are really easy to fall off  ;D

James Malloch

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Mischa - that sounds brutal. I might try to set some problems at that level tonight and give it a go next week.

I've been wondering similar about getting a bit fitter for routes this summer.

I'm really bad at structured things (low motivation) so I've been trying to incorporate it into short board sessions where I'm not trying hard problems. I've been doing a circuit (pretty easy - fine to warm up on) and then climbing it into a boulder problem (kind of level where I'd expect to get it first go each time now) and then rejoining the circuit after the boulder and doing another lap. So kind of romp-crux-romp.

I also think about how I'm way fitter at the end of a 1-2 week sport trip where I've just been having some redpoints and doing a bunch of flash/onsighting.

I wondered about doing a board "trip". So every few days just going for maximal effort every 45 mins or something whilst working. Either do the circuit and just keep going until I fall off, or doing similar with foot on campusing. Just going for max means no thought is needed each time, and going for max also means it'll only take a short time before I'm completely boxed and can resume work.

No idea what this would train or how effective it would be relative to something more structured but it would be interesting to hear any thoughts.

MischaHY

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Mischa - that sounds brutal. I might try to set some problems at that level tonight and give it a go next week.

I've been wondering similar about getting a bit fitter for routes this summer.

I'm really bad at structured things (low motivation) so I've been trying to incorporate it into short board sessions where I'm not trying hard problems. I've been doing a circuit (pretty easy - fine to warm up on) and then climbing it into a boulder problem (kind of level where I'd expect to get it first go each time now) and then rejoining the circuit after the boulder and doing another lap. So kind of romp-crux-romp.

I also think about how I'm way fitter at the end of a 1-2 week sport trip where I've just been having some redpoints and doing a bunch of flash/onsighting.

I wondered about doing a board "trip". So every few days just going for maximal effort every 45 mins or something whilst working. Either do the circuit and just keep going until I fall off, or doing similar with foot on campusing. Just going for max means no thought is needed each time, and going for max also means it'll only take a short time before I'm completely boxed and can resume work.

No idea what this would train or how effective it would be relative to something more structured but it would be interesting to hear any thoughts.

My best way to get around the motivation issue is to bring the experience as close to climbing as possible whilst keeping the intensity and workload appropriate. Last winter I came up with a session for route fitness which was good for this, at least for me and my training partner. We called it 'Circuit+'.

Quote
Define a circuit between 20 and 30 moves. The movement and holds should simulate the
style of climb you are currently trying or want to try. Define 1-2 moderate to good
rests, ideally including sub-optimal positions such as a single heel hook for feet or one bad hold, one good
hold, or a good hold with bad feet.

The difficulty of the circuit should be at or slightly above onsight. This means you should
arrive at the rest pumped, and have to recover significantly before continuing.
Pull onto the circuit and complete one lap. Recover in the rest for as long as you
need too, making sure to maximise regeneration. Attempt a second lap, climbing
until failure.

3-5 sets depending on skin and psyche with 15 mins rest between sets  :great:


If you can repeat a double lap of the circuit immediately, it is too easy. The progression
should come over several sessions and once you eventually complete the double lap, define
a new circuit at your new level of fitness to use in the next sessions

We found this great because it's structured and gets you really knackered, but comes much closer to simulating the fun and challenge of projecting compared to other 'max effort' endurance sessions like foot-on campus. The extra motivation of wanting to tick the project was also great for helping access the special try-hard which often only comes out at the crag.

The downside of this protocol over the 4x4x4 session is that in 4x4x4 you have more intermediate rests which mean you can spend more time on harder movement. We mixed these up though the week with regular board sessions to get a good balance of strength and endurance.

Hope this helps  :)

 

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