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Bouldering Unicorn Jacket (Read 2302 times)

36chambers

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#25 Re: Bouldering Unicorn Jacket
April 09, 2021, 03:58:52 pm
I really think your best option (even though you’ve said no) is a second hand oversized shell, to fit over whatever insulated jackets you already have and are happy with. Any sign of rain and just sling that in your pad too, negligible weight addition compared to all the other bouldering paraphernalia 😄

also great for when your pad gets covered in shit and you don't want it touching your good jacket.

SA Chris

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#26 Re: Bouldering Unicorn Jacket
April 09, 2021, 04:26:20 pm
Just get a military issue Poncho to cover the lot. Use it as a tarp too, just keep the outside on the ground.

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#27 Re: Bouldering Unicorn Jacket
April 09, 2021, 04:43:57 pm
I love how these threads always gradually turn into a competition of who can recommend the cheapest, shabbiest option.  :lol:

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#28 Re: Bouldering Unicorn Jacket
April 09, 2021, 04:44:23 pm
Just get a military issue Poncho to cover the lot. Use it as a tarp too, just keep the outside on the ground.

 ;D :guilty:
I carry one. With pre tied bungee loops on the corners, some very light alu pegs and a waterproof sleeping bag outer. In a pouch.
A clipstick or a walking pole, makes for a good “tent pole”  too. Weighs around 600g including pouch.

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#29 Re: Bouldering Unicorn Jacket
April 09, 2021, 04:55:26 pm
I too had this dream of the perfect jacket, then ten years back I won a jacket voucher in a photo competition and spunked it all on an Arc'teryx Kappa. I wasn't disappointed, have since bought another on sale from Sportpursuit for £180 i think.

Does all you want, in very cold, still conditions not quite as warm as a duvet but in more typical grit weather is as good or better, but less prone to overheating on walk-ins. Completely windproof and sufficiently shower proof to seal with anything but a prolonged down pour.

Bonus benefit is the shell on the shoulders and arms is completely bombproof, you can slide down a grit chimney or burrow through blackthorn and it just shrugs it off. Plus the fit and hood are really good. Can't fault it.

Bradders

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#30 Re: Bouldering Unicorn Jacket
April 09, 2021, 07:31:19 pm
overheating on walk-ins

Off topic, but since it's come up a couple of times; why on earth would anyone wear a jacket on a walk in? If I'm carrying a pad or two over any sort of distance I overheat no matter what I'm wearing.

webbo

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#31 Re: Bouldering Unicorn Jacket
April 09, 2021, 08:20:55 pm
overheating on walk-ins

Off topic, but since it's come up a couple of times; why on earth would anyone wear a jacket on a walk in? If I'm carrying a pad or two over any sort of distance I overheat no matter what I'm wearing.
Because by the time you have got your self ready to do the walk in you might be freezing due to the temperature and or the wind. You can stop and take it off as you warm up.

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#32 Re: Bouldering Unicorn Jacket
April 09, 2021, 08:45:19 pm
overheating on walk-ins

Off topic, but since it's come up a couple of times; why on earth would anyone wear a jacket on a walk in? If I'm carrying a pad or two over any sort of distance I overheat no matter what I'm wearing.

If you feel the cold as much as me, it takes a lot to overheat - and getting very warm seems to postpone my Raynaud's issues.   [that spectacular fall I took off Ben's with you was probably because my fingers had gone a bit glassy and numb - on a day others were in T-shirts, and you needed a fan directed at the rock!  Truly, my middle name is "nesh").

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#33 Re: Bouldering Unicorn Jacket
April 09, 2021, 10:02:59 pm
You can't go far wrong with any of the high-end synthetic belay jackets from Patagucci or Arcteryx - the DAS or the one below it in warmth (DAS is big heavy and like wearing an oven). ME/Rab pretty good too, but not quite as good a spec as the most expensive Patta/Arc stuff. Only way you'd get one for £150 though is by befriending someone with a pro deal, otherwise closer to £250-300. I find the patagucci stuff well built and lasts a very long time, good value for money over 10-15 years.

Otherwise, look at what base layer and mid layer you have and improve them instead. Again from patagucci the nano air hoody is toasty and very light. Combined with an existing 'average' outer jacket it makes a warm combo. Stick on a Brynje mesh baselayer and you'll be toasty warm and dry (but look like a weirdo).

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#34 Re: Bouldering Unicorn Jacket
April 09, 2021, 10:22:26 pm

tomtom

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#35 Re: Bouldering Unicorn Jacket
May 05, 2021, 05:46:12 pm
Update on this. Thanks for all the info.

In the end after much searching around I ended up getting a…

“ Patagonia Stretch Nano Storm Jacket (Winter 18)”

They’ve stopped making them and there were two in the UK a couple of weeks ago - now only one. Took a punt on a Patagonia Small size and it fits really well. Proper taped waterproof outer - and a reasonable amount of synthetic fill, two bottle pockets inside (for boots) and it’s 500g.

SA Chris

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#36 Re: Bouldering Unicorn Jacket
May 05, 2021, 09:40:01 pm
Small? does it come past your elbows?

tomtom

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#37 Re: Bouldering Unicorn Jacket
May 05, 2021, 09:52:48 pm
Small? does it come past your elbows?

Knuckles…

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#38 Re: Bouldering Unicorn Jacket
May 06, 2021, 08:40:13 am
The Mountain Equipment Triton is exactly what you're looking for and can be found for under £200 if you look carefully. I appreciate you're sorted now but anyone else looking - it's basically a Lightline with a waterproof shell outer. 845g in a medium size.

tomtom

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#39 Re: Bouldering Unicorn Jacket
May 06, 2021, 09:08:40 am
Good shout. Though for everything I was interested in  - it had to be at the discounted price - and finding the right size/colour in stock can be hard - but then thrown into the mix are the 'UK' retailers that are clearly based in Belgium/France/Germany and will invoke duty/vat when delivered...

I ordered a DAS parka (half price!!) and then when it all went through realised it was coming from France and ££ extra (and faff) etc... they were very obliging when I emailed to cancel. They mentioned I wasn't the first to do this..

Merde.

MischaHY

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#40 Re: Bouldering Unicorn Jacket
May 06, 2021, 09:18:05 am
Good shout. Though for everything I was interested in  - it had to be at the discounted price - and finding the right size/colour in stock can be hard - but then thrown into the mix are the 'UK' retailers that are clearly based in Belgium/France/Germany and will invoke duty/vat when delivered...

I ordered a DAS parka (half price!!) and then when it all went through realised it was coming from France and ££ extra (and faff) etc... they were very obliging when I emailed to cancel. They mentioned I wasn't the first to do this..

Merde.

I don't usually bring work into the mix because there is literally no incentive but in this context it's probably useful to point out that Alpinetrek/Bergfreunde have an import centre type place in England which does the paperwork and thereby no import taxes etc etc despite buying from Germany. Just FYI  ;D

tomtom

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#41 Re: Bouldering Unicorn Jacket
May 06, 2021, 11:49:05 am
Good knowledge - though part of the problem is it’s hard to know.

My order was through hardloop - who seemed to be completely France based. They were very good and prompt with cancellation/refund etc…

 

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