[Duma]

March goals
- Tick a 7 at either Shoreditch or Mabley Green. Doing a 7B would be a bonus. Done, managed to do a 7A at Shoreditch and a few more 7's inc a 7B.

Hang on, we missed this - was that in last weeks missing entry? Nice work anyway

[duncan]

How is Tide Rising these days Duma?

Bear in mind that I only had one go at the end of the day yesterday, and my previous ascent was ~8 years ago, but I think it's probably still the same grade. Crux climbs differently, maybe a foot further left and revolving about pinches and a high r heel rather than the old stab up into the vertical slot with rh. Still good though, I'll def make the effort to reclimb it one of these days.

Thanks. The grade is right but a punchy crux with pinches and a high heel doesn't sound totally my thing!  I've been a bit put-off Chulilla and Casino Royale too. At 7b/+, Uphill probably suits me better.

I had a few goes on the crux and felt pretty good but then all of sudden something went in my wrist. The pinch for the left hand had always felt a bit tweaky, as the wrist is slightly cocked and there is a lot of force going through the ring finger, but I had never felt like it was going to injure me. There was no audible pop, but my grip suddenly gave way and then I couldn't grip anymore. It became apparent that the flexor from my ring finger in my wrist had been at the very least badly strained. Stupidly, I didn't want to go home empty handed so jumped on a nearby 8a as it felt ok as long as stayed crimped up and not open handed. I

   In Steve McClure's excellent interview with Lattice (podcast or YouTube) he recommends stopping immediately when something 'goes' but isn't immediately painful. Wait 30 minutes and you'll have a clearer idea how bad it is unclouded by adrenaline and endorphins. I've known about and sometimes done this for a few years but I'd have saved myself a lot of time and aggravation if I'd been a bit more consistent. Good luck.

[tommytwotone]

MTG: Shipley Glen "Alternative Circuit" in a one-er
LTG: get up a new (to me) Font 7a

F: took the lad to Shipley, as it's a win-win: stuff for him and I can scope out some AC stuff.

Looked at some of the stuff around Kia-Ora wall, hadn't realised how big it all is. Bouldered out a lot of starts but didn't feel like committing to any of them, but did do Fearnought, which is an excellent micro-route. Lad did well at the slabs at the pub end too.

Mon: back to Shipley in considerably colder weather than Friday, but down under edge out of wind it was fine. Zero psyche from kids to do anything though. Went to check out Mike's Wall, found out I was an inch or two short on the crux and didn't fancy committing over the horror show landing. Went a bit further down and did Don't Fall Off, which is another overlooked gem.

Aiming to do/redo all the AC stuff soon (might end up roping the big ones), and then hoping for decent weather when the days / evenings get a bit longer to see it off.

[csl]

March goals
- Tick a 7 at either Shoreditch or Mabley Green. Doing a 7B would be a bonus. Done, managed to do a 7A at Shoreditch and a few more 7's inc a 7B.

Hang on, we missed this - was that in last weeks missing entry? Nice work anyway

Thanks! I did a 7A on the Shoreditch boulder last week, but I'm counting this weeks 7B (Alpha) for the bonus tick.

[spidermonkey09]

Two weeks worth as it slipped my mind last week. Back in Yorkshire for the next few months so looking forward to getting out on the limestone a bit more.

M 22nd - rest

T - max hangs. kind of a benchmarking session on one arm. Worked down from 5kg assist and managed to do a quasi bodyweight hang on the left arm - 1.25kg assist and 1.25kg on the harness. This is definitely a new PB so pleased with that, although right arm only managed 5 seconds at 1.25kg.

W - rest

T - Anderson hangs. same session as the other week but managed to complete it this time. Felt good on the 10mm edge which made a nice change.

F - rest.

S - Malham. Back for the first time this year. Pretty cold to be honest and very windy; one for the purists. Managed Appetite but was all over the place on the Oak in new shoes. Switched back to softer ones for second go and remembered how to use the smears. Resorted sequence on top traverse but couldn't touch the starting wall. Shark kindly messaged me his beta that evening upon request!

S - rest. Broken.

M 29th - rest.

T - Giggleswick after work. Some 6's in the sun. Simple things.

W - a walk and potter at Newbiggin. Beautiful spot and some great easy problems. Couldn't touch the 7s in the sun but quit before I did myself any major damage.

T - finished work at midday and went to Malham. Simon generously belayed me and talked me through his beta. Did it in three, in large part due to using the correct holds. Also sussed the kneebar at the top for clipping the chain, amazing find as its totally unobvious.

F - Gigg North with girlfriend. Met Remus  . Watched him smoothly dispatch Illywacker following which I flailed around. Got up to the last few moves next go but binned it. Should go soon, but chunky for 7b+.

S - active rest day at Pot Scar. Beautiful weather. Some nice VS' and a good E1 on the right hand side. Lovely spot, recommended.

S - Kilnsey. Thought it would be out of the wind, turned out to be baltic. Crag was deserted which was surprising even allowing for that. Flashed Alternative Extra Option and did Last Gasp Finish before failing on a slash go on Slab Culture. Good mileage day.

M - bonus Malham session. Roasting in the sun, freezing in the shade. Linked horn to top first go up. Linked ground to horn second go, then horn to top after a brief rest on the rope. Game on to start having goes from the ground.

Good few weeks and pleased to have made quick progress on the Oak. Looking forward to more time on rock over the next month or so.

[Bradders]

S - downhilling at wharncliffe. Venue purposely chosen so I could also scout out Kobe. Now this is an inspiring boulder! Naturally, I brought my tape measure along and made another sketch on my phone in order to build a replica. Kobe is 30 degrees so a board version will need to be adapted. Let me know if anyone's interested in the sketch/dimensions.

Yes please!