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Return of the Sleepwalker (Read 4580 times)

Bradders

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andy popp

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#1 Re: Return of the Sleepwalker
April 02, 2021, 07:51:12 pm
I wonder how nervy the top out slab was?

Great news though, looks like a very worthy line.

Andy F

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#2 Re: Return of the Sleepwalker
April 02, 2021, 09:01:43 pm
A 3 move 8A+ into an 8C+. Sounds 9A to me. Beast.
He even gave up booze and weed to do it  :o

shark

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#3 Re: Return of the Sleepwalker
April 02, 2021, 10:27:01 pm
Good write up on Climbing.com

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#4 Re: Return of the Sleepwalker
April 03, 2021, 08:38:03 am
9A!!! great ascent great write up.

36chambers

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#5 Re: Return of the Sleepwalker
April 03, 2021, 08:10:30 pm
Quote from: climbing.com
Woods first started trying what would become Return of the Sleepwalker in late January and early February 2019, right after his ascent of the original version of Sleepwalker. Woods wrote on Instagram at the time that the sit start “adds in a 3 move v12 straight into the stand The first move is the crux and is a savage low percent right hand drive by into a hard to get into slot edge. I would stick this move 1 in every 10 tries. … This is easily the hardest thing I have tried and now I feel possessed by it.”

This entire section is actually Woods talking about the LH sit start which starts effectively in the same place as Squoze.

https://www.instagram.com/p/BtltucNlRN2/

In that clip there's a large boulder blocking what will become the start of Return of the Sleepwalker, which has relatively recently gone for a little wander. I wonder if they'll include any footage of them shifting that in the FA vid, looks like it could have been a significant job.

Sleepwalker Assis LH (9A?) FA is still up for grabs :smartass:

Bradders

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#6 Re: Return of the Sleepwalker
April 03, 2021, 08:55:09 pm
Nice, good knowledge. That's a pretty hefty block!! Glad they moved it though.

webbo

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#7 Re: Return of the Sleepwalker
April 03, 2021, 09:40:46 pm
Quote from: climbing.com
Woods first started trying what would become Return of the Sleepwalker in late January and early February 2019, right after his ascent of the original version of Sleepwalker. Woods wrote on Instagram at the time that the sit start ďadds in a 3 move v12 straight into the stand The first move is the crux and is a savage low percent right hand drive by into a hard to get into slot edge. I would stick this move 1 in every 10 tries. Ö This is easily the hardest thing I have tried and now I feel possessed by it.Ē

This entire section is actually Woods talking about the LH sit start which starts effectively in the same place as Squoze.

https://www.instagram.com/p/BtltucNlRN2/

In that clip there's a large boulder blocking what will become the start of Return of the Sleepwalker, which has relatively recently gone for a little wander. I wonder if they'll include any footage of them shifting that in the FA vid, looks like it could have been a significant job.

Sleepwalker Assis LH (9A?) FA is still up for grabs :smartass:
He talks about a shit start, is this a new thing. :shit:

Will Hunt

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#8 Re: Return of the Sleepwalker
April 03, 2021, 09:52:01 pm
What is a right hand drive by?

dunnyg

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#9 Re: Return of the Sleepwalker
April 03, 2021, 10:04:54 pm
Surely the aire valley has its fair share?

moose

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#10 Re: Return of the Sleepwalker
April 03, 2021, 10:09:41 pm
What is a right hand drive by?

Sounds like it should be a "go again" but I can't see anything like that on the available recordings.

There's an Insta video of his near miss (fluffing a high heel at the finish) here:

https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/daniel-woods-establishes-return-of-the-sleepwalker-9a-boulder-problem-red-rocks.html

Ru

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#11 Re: Return of the Sleepwalker
April 03, 2021, 10:53:54 pm
What is a right hand drive by?

A dynamic hand move that generally starts low and to the side and comes up and across your body. A bit like a dynamic cross through, although you donít necessarily have to cross through very much.

Kingy

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#12 Re: Return of the Sleepwalker
April 03, 2021, 11:01:01 pm
Sleepwalker Assis LH (9A?) FA is still up for grabs :smartass:

I'll book my flight then as soon as this pandemic is done  ;D

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#13 Re: Return of the Sleepwalker
April 04, 2021, 07:07:20 am
What is a right hand drive by?
I've often wondered about that sort of thing. Guess the 1st move in the insta link of the attempts on the original is what he's referring to.

https://www.instagram.com/p/BtltucNlRN2/

If it was me I'd probably call it a lunge.

Nibile

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#14 Re: Return of the Sleepwalker
April 04, 2021, 09:20:13 am
Just victims of the in-house drive by
They say "Jump!" you say "How high?"
 8)

Moo

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#15 Re: Return of the Sleepwalker
April 04, 2021, 09:48:56 am
 :coffee:

yetix

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Bradders

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#17 Re: Return of the Sleepwalker
April 04, 2021, 10:51:36 am
Love that by the end he was on his tod with just his phone filming. Just like Nalle on Burden of Dreams, best bit of the whole film about that was he was on his own, in the dark, with a bad fish eye camera capturing the ascent. Sums up project bouldering for me.

duncan

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#18 Re: Return of the Sleepwalker
April 04, 2021, 11:59:08 am
Going into isolation in the desert to find yourself or go mad has many precedents. There's another notable one just before Easter...

jwi

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#19 Re: Return of the Sleepwalker
April 08, 2021, 12:07:24 pm
Good interview about what will undoubtedly be a significant boulder for years to come on climbing.com

https://www.climbing.com/news/interview-daniel-woods-talks-return-of-the-sleepwalker-v17

The cynic in me can't help but think that it is clever to put up 9As far from the centre of the world. We should crowdfund Charles Albert to go there for a month

Will Hunt

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#20 Re: Return of the Sleepwalker
April 08, 2021, 12:20:16 pm
The cynic in me can't help but think that it is clever to put up 9As far from the centre of the world. We should crowdfund Charles Albert to go there for a month

Also, I can't believe nobody has called out the fact that he's given it a name which isn't just Sleepwalker Sit Start  :chair:

You've changed, UKBouldering.com.

SA Chris

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#21 Re: Return of the Sleepwalker
April 08, 2021, 12:26:24 pm
Yeah, it's 30 min drive from Vegas, which is the centre of the world, baby!

Wood FT

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#22 Re: Return of the Sleepwalker
April 08, 2021, 06:11:39 pm
5er says it gets repeated by the end of the year

Bradders

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#23 Re: Return of the Sleepwalker
April 08, 2021, 07:58:44 pm
Sounds like Jimmy Webb has been on it a bit too so yeah probably won't be long!

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#24 Re: Return of the Sleepwalker
April 08, 2021, 08:09:00 pm
The cynic in me can't help but think that it is clever to put up 9As far from the centre of the world. We should crowdfund Charles Albert to go there for a month
Same with "harder than E11" trad on the North Face of Ben Nevis where you have to shovel snow off the top in mid summer ;). +1 for crowdfund Charles to go cram his toes in those sandstone seams.

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#25 Re: Return of the Sleepwalker
April 08, 2021, 10:39:53 pm
Judging from some of the comments on social media and from the approach description on Mountain project I think the idea of Black Velvet Canyon as a far-flung wilderness might be a bit of an exaggeration- itís 45 minutes walk from the car to where the multipitch trad routes are and the boulders appear to be on the way. Might have interpreted that wrong though so happy to be corrected.

Inspired by the interviews from this. Given that heís had a drink driving conviction in the past itís cool to hear heís found success via a new sober life. I was 31 when I went totally clean myself and although it didnít lead me to climb 9A I still rate it as one of the best decisions I ever made.

 

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