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Scarpa Boostics (Read 2509 times)

T_B

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Scarpa Boostics
March 30, 2021, 11:09:56 am
Has anyone used the new Scarpa Boostics? I tried a pair as they’re advertised as an edging shoe, but they seemed softer on the foot than a pair of VSRs? And then oddly Scarpa describe them as both a sport climbing shoe as well as a trad/all day comfort shoe, yet they are more asymmetric than a VS/VSR and feel even more downturned.

I was looking to get something maybe a bit more sensitive/less clumpy than a VS for lime routes and on paper they seemed to fit the bill. Just wondering whether, despite the feel of them, performance wise they are quite stiff?

I have VSRs for grit, Instict Lace half a size bigger for trad, I want something stiffer. Not really interested in other brands as Scarpa fit my foot shape and take a re-sole so well. Thanks.

Andy F

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#1 Re: Scarpa Boostics
May 16, 2021, 01:34:09 pm
I picked up a pair yesterday and used them in the Manc Depot today. Went up 0.5 Euro from my usual Scarpa size. First impressions are very good. Straight out of the box they feel very sensitive for a stiff shoe and obviously they edge like a beast. Surprisingly good on the big roof, heel seems firm enough and little dead space and toe hooking is great.
Overall I'm very pleased. Can't wait to try them on the Lime. I never got on with the Instinct range, the last stiff shoe I enjoyed was the Spectro about 10 years ago.

T_B

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#2 Re: Scarpa Boostics
May 16, 2021, 01:49:07 pm
Yeah I tried a pair of 44s which seemed right compared to the 43.5s I take in VS/VSR. I didn’t go with them as I just wasn’t convinced they’d be that stiff for long as they felt so soft. It’ll be interesting to hear how they wear. I’m also not sure I like that more asymmetric fit - makes sense for inside edging but it feels like you’d have less power outside edging. I also found the heel not as secure as the VS (which is the best heel for me of any shoe I’ve tried). So went for another pair of VS and am nicely reminded that they’re less clumpy than my resoles, which I’d been erroneously saying were as good as new ones.

Bradders

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#3 Re: Scarpa Boostics
May 16, 2021, 02:12:30 pm
Which resoler and what rubber type did you get for your VS resoles TB?

T_B

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#4 Re: Scarpa Boostics
May 16, 2021, 02:55:56 pm
Feet First. Tbh I’ve not had any resoled for ages as they’ve lasted so long. Quality job but the rubber is definitely thicker than the original (pretty sure it was Scarpa Edge or whatever). I’ve had new pairs of both VSR and VS in the past 6 months and am really pleased with them, especially the softness of the VSR on grit. Amazed Eder can climb F9a at Malham in them!

Andy F

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#5 Re: Scarpa Boostics
May 16, 2021, 03:04:43 pm
It's probably a foot shape thing. I get on with big toe focused asymmetric shoes such as the Stix and Furia but don't like the Instinct toe. Well, apart from the SR, but even then I prefer the Stix for my slipper.
Being light, (currently around 63kg) even if the Boostics aren't as stiff as the VS's, they'll be stiff enough for me.

remus

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#6 Re: Scarpa Boostics
May 16, 2021, 05:14:28 pm
I've got a pair I've been wearing for the last month or so. I went from a 40 in the VS/Rs and a 40.5 in the booster to a 41 in the boostic as my achilles tendon was pretty painful when I tried them on in the shop and couldn't bring myself to go any smaller (I was also slightly haunted by memories of a pair of the original boostics which I bought too small and could never break in).

They felt pretty good out of the box but personally I don't particularly rate them for small edges, could just be because I've sized them a bit large but the mid sole doesn't seem to offer a lot of support so it feels like you're foot is really working when you do have to stand on something small.

May just be my imagination but the profile of the rubber on the toe seems a little rounded (compared to the VS/Rs which feel like they have a pretty crisp edge to me). It's a bit disconcerting when you're trying to stand on really small stuff as it doesn't feel very precise, so Im never quite sure if Im actually on the hold or not.

I haven't had a chance to properly use the heel in anger yet but it seems an improvement over the weirdly slippy booster heel.

Overall I think they're a decent pair of shoes but I reckon you want to size them pretty tight if you're looking for a small edge machine. I'd be interested to hear if anyone else has found the same thing with the profile of the toe rubber.

tomtom

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#7 Re: Scarpa Boostics
May 16, 2021, 06:31:33 pm
My go to edge shoe was Scarpa instinct laces…

But their edging ability (they’re ace at everything else except smeary stuff) has been surpassed by a pair of Unparallel VCS (their Anasazi vcs version). Stiff rubber and sole make em ace on grit matchstick edges… even though mine are possibly a size too large.

Danny

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#8 Re: Scarpa Boostics
May 17, 2021, 11:26:49 am
Have you tried the Magos TB? I know they now come in the softer rubber, but their downturn and toebox shape is absolutely perfect for tiny edges and pockets on the steep. I also have instincts for most other stuff and both fit my feet really well.

T_B

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#9 Re: Scarpa Boostics
May 17, 2021, 01:11:28 pm
I had a couple of pairs of the original green Magos around 2007/2008 and liked them. I did try the newer version very briefly on a board at the Foundry when Glyn from Scarpa happened to be there. Yes, I should have another look at those.

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#10 Re: Scarpa Boostics
June 06, 2021, 07:43:43 pm
Concur with all the comments from above. Similar toe power / edging ability as the VS, if not slightly less. Feel snug/small out the box but actually comfy so I'm not sure I'd size up.

More sensitive and comfy than the original. For me, they're basically a slightly more "sock" fit VS. Bit miffed, as I used to like having a pair of boostics for standing around on edgy vertical trad. (I'm 77kg and 43.5, so like a bit of support for long pitches of edging) and didn't *really* need another VS type shoe. That said....another VS show is no bad thing when the old ones wear out.

Just don't get why they tweaked something that had a good niche. I'd have happily just aken an old pair with the new blue colour scheme.

 

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