M - BM pulley assisted one arm hangs x 5 middle rung, weighted hangs x 5 lower outside edges.
T - Trail run 15km 388m. Weights, TRX + knee and hamstring exercises.
W - Trail run 14km 474m. NG PE session on Lattice rung x 4 sets.
T - Trail run 12.95km 534m.
F - Trail run 11.9km 548m. Shoulder stability + core. Pockets and slopers and weighted hangs. Weights, TRX + knee and hamstring exercises.
S - Trail run 21.82km 905m. I was meant to do a 40km training run but there was too much snow above 1000m. My knee felt weak and running in snow leads to sudden knee extensions and rotations so I got fed up and went home half way through.
S - Full warm up at home and then Grotterwegwand. Tried an 8a+. This has a cool techy start with crimps, toe hooks and undercuts leading to a steep and powerful "Mecca" style groove. You exit the groove via a hard boulder problem culminating in a core intensive karate kick out right on to a good but hard to hit foothold and a powerful rock up into a bit flakey undercut. More powerful moves lead over a bulge to a final techy wall. I made good progress on this but over all the route was desperate and I wasn't climbing the groove quickly or efficiently enough to have enough power left for the boulder problem. The lower section feels about 7c/+ leading to a Font 7B boulder. Another desperate 8a+ that will probably take me ages! As always I checked 8a.nu when I got home hoping that others found it desperate and to take some comfort in that. Luckily there wasn't the usual proclamation of "soft" and even beasts like Martina Demmel (see significant repeats thread) found it hard and took 3 sessions.
Not a bad week, despite not getting back on the 8c. We decided to avoid Schleier because of the snow and it turned out to be the right choice. A mate tried to go and it took him and his partner 2 hours to walk in, by which time he was soaked and had to try and climb in his underpants, before quickly giving up due to exhaustion! Although I have been putting in the training in at home it is hard to replicate the physical reality of outdoor climbing and I feel broken after yesterday's session! I need to try and get out more on rock as once a week on average isn't enough to build up some resistance and stamina and keep the skin tough. My knee is still getting weak after putting in 65km+ weeks of running. Hamstring and knee exercises help keep it at bay but ultimately I really need to strengthen the whole thing to stop the imbalance. One of my goals before summer was an "Everesting" attempt but with my knee the way it is I don't think it is possible. If the snow melts enough this week I will try one rep of the 8-9 reps I would need to do for the attempt and see how it goes.
