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[Yorkshire][Ruin Bank Woods][Shangri-La][E4 6b] (Read 4027 times)

Will Hunt

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The leaning left arete of The Tower (the right arete of which is begging to be done by somebody very capable).
To find The Tower, approach from Lee Lane and continue past the track junction towards Park Rocks along the top track. Where the wire fence turns away from the track, walk towards the edge. The Tower is about 100m east of the Neolithic Walls.

Most likely horribly overgraded  :-[  Take along a very small cam.

https://www.instagram.com/p/CM2r72EjKqR/

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Good stuff. What's the landing like? Looks plausible as a highball height-wise?

Will Hunt

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Quite possibly. I've never tested the fall so don't know where you might end up. There's some good landing space available but also some nasty old tree stumps around that you wouldn't want to hit.

Fiend

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Good stuff. What's the landing like? Looks plausible as a highball height-wise?
Looks like it would be a waste of a good trad route! One very small cam vs 5 pads etc etc....

SA Chris

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Looks like a couple of quality knee bars / scums missed. Nice find.

teestub

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Is the right arête project arête a similar height or does the ground slope up? Looks like the landing is a bit spicy at that end.

Will Hunt

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Is the right arête project arête a similar height or does the ground slope up? Looks like the landing is a bit spicy at that end.

Basically the same height. On the left arete you can see that you come onto it from a ledge that's maybe a metre or two off the ground. The ground is where Sean is standing in the video. Right of Sean and under the right arete is a sloping block which you can see in the still image (swipe right on the video) on the ground, and you can see behind Sean that there is a tall block which is far too big to move. You can kind of see how steep the headwall is from the video, but what doesn't come across is that a fall from the headwall, certainly near it's top, might well land you on the tall block. You'd have to come up with some patio to cover the block on the floor, and maybe have a spotter on the tall block somehow? I'd say the right arete has got Jordan's name written all over it. Sutty and Peckitt and all those cats should have a look.

For the right arete you could try and climb it direct to get to the obvious flake on the headwall, or it might be easier to climb up the centre of the wall until the holds run out at half height and then move right onto the flake.

Will Hunt

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Information/spray:

#SamMarks came along for a repeat last night and opted for a quick headpoint. Andy Hobson has also had a rope down it. Between them they seem to agree that it's more worth E5. The phrase "you couldn't grade flour" may have been used (I mean, who can?)

There's a video and photo here which show it from a different angle. Revisiting it, I don't think I would highball it. The nature of the moves means you could possibly fall off awkwardly, and it feels high at the top. There is a landing zone but the landing quality on either side is poor and if you were to overshoot the landing you could end up in bother. But that sort of statement is made to be proven wrong so maybe it's worth a look.
https://www.instagram.com/p/CNnssvhjTrz/

There is normal sized kit in the big break. Slightly higher is the crucial tiny cam that goes into a narrow slot at the back of a slightly broader opening. The gear we've used is a discontinued Wild Country Z3, which the spec lists as having a range of 8.5 - 12.2mm. This is equivalent to a 0.1 or 0.2 modern Zero Friend or a Dragonfly 2.

 

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