[User deactivated.]

I'm looking at this as a potential highball. Does anyone know how desperate it is turning the lip and how likely it would be to fall off awkwardly? (e.g. upside down!). Any other beta is welcome.

[webbo]

I tried to down climb from the lip sometime in the last century pre pads.Broke my elbow and heel. It’s probably about 5c in route grades to the lip.

[Will Hunt]

I haven't actually tried it but I believe that going over the lip is the only hard bit on it. People say it's not very hard but sandy and scary.

[Johnny Brown]

I dont remember much, but it seemed fine when I did it but obviously very intimidating. Not one to get on unless you are pissing all the similar easier ones nearby. Helps if theres a few of you.

I remember a UkB member taking the ride and missing his one pad. I think he got away with it.

[Andy B]

If you’re thinking of me, I didn’t have a pad to miss. It was against my ethics at the time. (Now I cant carry enough of them).
I think you threw one under me when I went up for round two.

[Johnny Brown]

Those were the days eh!  2002? Did you do it round two? All
I can remember is staring at the crater you'd made. 😂

[User deactivated.]

Christ, seems it has taken its fair share of blood then! I might have to wait for a bit of a pad party for this one.

[Andy B]

Those were the days eh!  2002? Did you do it round two? All
I can remember is staring at the crater you'd made. 😂

I reckon you’re bang on with 2002.
I did get up it on round two, but didn’t quite get away with the fall.

My first mistake was watching El Mocho go up it first and thinking, well that looks fine.
I then got a massive flash pump when all the jugs in the roof turned out to be slopers and got strung out and beached on the scrittley elephant’s arse over the top, before finally accepting the ride.
After making your memorable crater, I could feel my foot swelling in my boot, and knew I wouldn’t be able to get it back on if I took it off. So I left foot in boot while I de-pumped, then went back up for round two a bit more prepared.
I remember feeling fairly smooth on that go, but I mustn’t have looked it cos I heard you sliding the pad over the crater as I topped out. Luckily it wasn’t needed.
I ended up with a badly bruised heel, couldn’t climb for a few weeks afterwards and to this day I still get in and out of cars like I’m wearing a pencil skirt.

[tommytwotone]

Christ, seems it has taken its fair share of blood then! I might have to wait for a bit of a pad party for this one.

I gather that back in the day some ex-Leeds Wall matting found its way up there making a lot of those lines way more palatable!

[duncan]

I did this a looong time ago using and testing the two rope method. Not quite as far back as webbo who was clearly ahead of his time trying it as a highball. It remains my only natural grit E5 and must be a gift with one UK 6b move in complete safety if you lead it.

I once said I don't think it's giving away too much to say the roof is easy but establishing yourself around the lip is a bit of a tussle.  I did it with the guidebook-prescribed two belayers, though I dare say it's a highball font 6b or summat.

I’ve no real idea about the font. grade, but it’s my anti-style and I generally need several tries on anything harder than 6B.

[Will Hunt]

How exactly does the two belayers thing work on this?

[webbo]

You used to put a size 8 hex in a flake. This was likely to bounce out, so you tied it down to thread on the ground. You had one rope through this as a normal runner, then you had a nut in a break on the other side of the rift. Your other rope was through this, it was slightly behind. So if you fall off your belayer on this rope stops you swinging in to smash your self on the bottom shelf.

[tommytwotone]

I can only speak from experience of doing Clematis / The Nelly Moser Finish a good few years ago and remember how scrittly that was. In fact I have the crux foothold in a box at home!