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Power Club 575 15-21 Mar (Read 5654 times)

shark

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Power Club 575 15-21 Mar
March 21, 2021, 04:18:31 pm
11.8 average 162.5 (up 0.5lbs)

M.

T. AM FB set of recruitment and speed pulls
Lunch Tor with Aide. Late start to miss the bad weather. Tor still Misty Crag had totally crapped out with condensation and runoff. Air was fresh though and mist cleared to make way for a lovely sunny afternoon. Towelled holds off and handholds felt nicely tacky. Messed around and tried to see if I could do throw move more in control. No chance. In contrast to the last session my first go was the best this time latching the crimp from the start but not quite in the best place so couldn’t move my foot. 4 more goes from the start going for the crimp two of which marred by foot unusually coming off shallow pocket. Putting that down to conditions. Good to salvage a session from the day but felt a bit meh at three end. Not progressing but not going backwards either.

W. 4x5 PM Fast pull-ups with +16lb
Chest to  bar 16x matching PB. 5x5 Fast deadlifts @ 60kg. 4x4 OH press @40kgs. Protracted Max hangs session on Ergo Edge (16mm). Not done these for a few weeks and it showed. Best scores Half Crimp +27.5kg x 6 secs, Full Crimp +27.5kg x 8 secs Drag 32.5kg x 5secs.
Wrist curls 3x10 pronated @13kg 1x10 supinated @ 10kg 1x10 but too heavy so 2x10@7.5kg

T. Jab 💉

F. Under the weather

S. PM Systems board. Holds felt a little classier than normal. Gastons sequence. Fell off last hand move old An Cap circuit with slightly harder version of throw move (going off good incut edge). New AnCap routine laddering up and down the incut edges timing 3 secs a move using crap screw on footholds leading into the throw move as above. First set of 4 with 3 mins rest between each go fumbled pinch on 4th go. Second set managed it one and failed at throw on 2nd attempt. Worse than last week. Going backwards. Fuckit, fuckit, fuckit. Back to the drawing board

S.


Stagnation on Bens and Oak board routine has made me re-think my approach.

Re Bens stuck at the same sort of level for last 8 sessions. Although it’s a level of performance that I’m delighted about I think to move forward with this I’m going to revert to starting from the pinch and pocket (5 moves in) and going to the end (or repeatedly do in two halves) with a view to feeling steady on this link and aiming to do 3 laps in a session before trying from the start again. In the meantime this nonstop 13 move link should be excellent PE training.

Re Board routine practicing 8 fingery moves into a powerful move to replicate the starting section of the Oak doesn’t seem to be eliciting a response/progress so going to write it off as a failed experiment but maybe can use it as a benchmark to test if other things work. Going to train the components separately for a while and see if that works.
« Last Edit: June 13, 2021, 10:05:51 am by duncan »

RobK

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#1 Re: Power Club 574 15-21 Mar
March 21, 2021, 05:27:32 pm
Thanks Shark. Can’t be too long before Malham season resumes, where do you think you’re at in comparison to previous years?

M - Afternoon bouldering down at Devil’s Gorge. My mate was working Be Ruthless so joined him on that. The start is pretty straightforward so got those moves worked out and then got stuck into the last big jump move. Got close but couldn’t make it stick despite many goes.

T - Rest.

W - Back to the gorge, solo this time. Tried out various different ways of doing the last move. Realised that my home board training has mainly been smaller moves on smaller holds, rather than big power moves just because of the size of the board. Looked at some intermediates because of this which I had initially written off on Monday. Found a pinch that worked really well and got the move done quickly. Knew it was on. Fluffed a couple of attempts with the classic redpoint nerves (had missed those) before finishing it off a few goes later. First 7C! Amazed to get it done so quickly.
https://www.instagram.com/p/CMiMQUjjMwA/

T - Rest.

F - Headed over to Nesscliffe to revisit Little Northumberland. Couldn’t get more different to Be Ruthless in style. Very still with a bit of sun around when I arrived and the crux crimps felt a little greasy but conditions slowly improved throughout the day. Set to work on the cross-through which I still hadn’t managed. Tried a lower foot which I had been recommended. Didn’t get on with this initially but persisted and eventually stuck the move. However I then couldn’t move from the position I got myself into and kept dabbing with my heel. Getting a bit frustrated and almost sacked it off as not doable for me at the minute. Went back to my original higher foot and could now do the move using this having learnt the body position. Then I realised I could get a thumb on the right hand to turn it from a crimp into a pinch. Game changer! A few goes later I managed to hit the pop to the slot and then crapped myself all along the f4 finish. A funny one, went from feeling totally impossible at the start of the session to feeling like I could probably now lap it. Such a satisfying process. Then wandered down the hill to meet a friend who had popped over and went to explore some other sectors. Hawk Wall is cool, flashed a very nice 6B but didn’t have the beans to finish the 7A+ traverse into it. Also went to check out Subtilitas which I had spotted in a video. Cool feature which might be worth a try at some point.
https://www.instagram.com/p/CMnKBIrjSsM/

S - Rest. Came down with a bit of a cold that my girlfriend brought home from work.

S - Rest. Still a bit under the weather. Two LI fingerboard sessions, 10/20 in the morning, 30/30 in the afternoon. Have had a couple of weeks off these and keen to restart them for another 2-3 week block.

Not too bad a week for a sport climber. Hopefully I can shake this cold quickly. No time on rock planned this week (maybe at the weekend) so it would be nice to be feeling a bit better to get some decent board sessions in.

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#2 Re: Power Club 574 15-21 Mar
March 21, 2021, 05:38:43 pm
Great effort getting 2 7Cs in a week Rob.

Praying for good weather somewhere from the 29th, cannot wait to get out properly again.

March goals

- Tick a 7 at either Shoreditch or Mabley Green. Doing a 7B would be a bonus. Done, managed to do a 7A.
- 20x stretching or mobility. 10/20 - a better week, stretching or mobility on 5/7 days
- Stick to the plan, don't miss any sessions. Have missed 1 planned session so far this month so happy with this.

Monday
Shoreditch Park. A bit more failure on a nemesis problem, got frustrated and tried a 7A called unthinkable instead. Fortunately did that in ~15 minutes and could treat myself to a sausage and egg McMuffin on the way home.

Stretching

Tuesday
Stretching

Wednesday
10mm edge hangs - slowly improving on this, but surprised how bad I am compared to a 20mm edge.
Board projecting. Did 2 of the projects I've tried in previous sessions, happy with that. 
Movement drills: staying open.
Wide grip pullups 5x5 + 8kg.

Thursday
Stretching

Friday
Flashes on the board.
5x5 assisted 1 armers.

Saturday
Stretching

Sunday
2 Arm Max hangs 5x10 seconds @ 125kg half crimp and 95kg on 3FD.
Boulder Doubles / AnCap

Stretching

Will Hunt

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#3 Re: Power Club 574 15-21 Mar
March 21, 2021, 05:49:14 pm
After last week's non event it was much improved this week.

M - nipped out at lunch to reinvestigate a local proj. It has not grown any more holds. Split skin pulling on a thin crimp.

T - after work trip to Ruin Bank to clean the big prow boulder. Arrived to find two people there who'd already done it! I enjoyed the fruits of their labour doing a few easy things, then abbed down the right hand side to pull the ferns out of Stupid Jack. Did this and it was surprisingly good. A few more easies before home time.

W - after work hit to look at a new dyno that dunny had identified. Did that and played for a bit on the sit start before moving on for more pleasant highballs nearby.

S - gunned our motorbikes and jumped over the wire for a sneaky visit to Trollers Gill. Warmed up and dogged up Smouldering to find the holds. Didn't spend any time doing links which felt like a mistake but decided to come straight down from the top for a rest. Next go climbed through 95% of the hard climbing but missed the correct foot placement before going to the flake at the end of the hard climbing. Fingers numbed out a bit and came down to some mild hot aches. It went pretty smoothly next go. Surprisingly enjoyable. Went up it again later with a rest in the middle to extend a draw for my partner.

S - a pleasant afternoon with TTT at the Glen supervising the kids on a slab there. There was cake and there was crush.

Duma

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#4 Re: Power Club 574 15-21 Mar
March 21, 2021, 05:51:56 pm
Good week Rob!

M - am sleep after nights. Pm rock, Avon Gorge, Was It You? 7c+. Started from the bottom this time, traversing over from the ramp. First go dogged up putting  the clips in, second go on TR got from start to middle of crux, prob only 3-4 more moves before you should be in. Too dark for another burn but I was knackered anyway. Pretty happy with that, sequence pretty much nailed and good link, proper lead attempts now. Glorious evening hanging on the wall, started out chilling in the sun, then later watching the bats and the moonrise. Felt very lucky to have this sort of experience available right in my home city.
T - lunchtime 14 min fb, good, did hardest version yet.
W - eve board, 45 min, terrible, sacked it off early. Warmed up feeling but as soon as tried to pull it was apparent there was nothing there. Made effort to eat more at dinner as think I may be underfuelling slightly atm, more likely not enough sleep though
T - am 14 min fb, good, did hardest version again. Eve run, 5k, hilly, pavement. 22:53 took it fairly easy, nice evening.
F - Rock, Avon Gorge, back on Was It You? 7c+. Getting more confident on the wall, putting the clips in felt fine. One TR go, blew off last small crimp just before end of crux. Good link but annoyed to ping off rather than run out of steam or do it. First time I've felt good enough for third go, and first decent lead attempt, felt best yet on it, but foot slipped near the top. Pulled back on at the good slot and went to the top while still boxed, good to know what it feels like tired. Excellent day.
S - Rock, Avon Gorge, back on
The Prince wall with a few mats. Repeated some of the bouldering to warm up, including The Pauper, good slightly highball 7A+, then took a few goes to get through the rockover crux on The Prince, but once I did bouldered out the RH sequence first go. Rocked on to the arete as soon as I got there and walked off, carrying on to the top (of the route) would definitely be soloing. About Font 7C like this, and the RH sequence makes sense as a boulder problem. For the interested I climbed the line Hamish does in this vid:
but rocked on to the arete at 1:08. Think that's me done with this wall now.
S - bike ride to check out the sport in Quarry 3 the other side of Avon Gorge, looks worth a visit or two for some easy milage, certainly a step up from new quarry, though that's not saying much... also took a look at Leigh Ace 7B a bit further along, maybe not classic stuff but will def come back for a go at some point.

70 kg.
« Last Edit: March 21, 2021, 05:58:48 pm by Duma »

shark

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#5 Re: Power Club 574 15-21 Mar
March 21, 2021, 06:09:11 pm
Thanks Shark. Can’t be too long before Malham season resumes, where do you think you’re at in comparison to previous years?

Paul Reeve asked me the same thing yesterday - it’s something I ask myself daily. I’m not really sure. I’ve made progress in some ways but unsure whether it will translate to the route significantly. The improved finger strength should help on the bottom wall and the improved snap on the throw moves.

Worry is that I’ve mainly been climbing at a different angle (ie a roof). Also whilst I’ve started working fingery endurance I’m still well below par and will probably need to make up ground in this respect on the route.

Initial aim will be to get through the throw move from the ground in five sessions or less but as Mike Tyson said everyone has a plan till they are punched in the face.

Quote
First 7C! Amazed to get it done so quickly.

 :clap2: What a start to the year!

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#6 Re: Power Club 574 15-21 Mar
March 21, 2021, 06:27:06 pm
Great effort Rob and video looks great.

W/C 15/3/21

M- Abs/core, pull-ups, yoga and stretching, max hangs
T - Density hangs, abs, stretching and yoga, compression
W - Abs, arms, wrists and legs, yoga and stretching, small holds, pinches, more stretching.
T - Abs/core, pull ups, max hangs, yoga and stretching.
F - Abs, yoga and stretching, density hangs, compression
S - Abs, yoga and stretching, finger strength benchmarking
S - Walk,  Abs, stretching and yoga

Time to start looking at the weather forecast to see whether it’s dry when I’m released.

M - 5 minute plank, hollow bodies, front levers, roll outs.
Move on to 5 sets of OAP, which are coming on nicely. Then some velocity pulls and single arm 90° locks. Finish with some scapular work.
Yoga for hamstrings and stretching for splits.
10x5 second hangs on centre hold of BM2K with each hand. Play about trying OAP on the hold but soon realise set up gets in the way, do okay though.

T - Density hangs for 6x30 seconds early in the morning.
Plank for 3x3 and floor routine for abs.
Stretching for upper body. Yoga for hips.
Prone TRX for Is,Ys and Ts for three sets of long holds. Isometric compression holds and press-ups.

W - 100 easy zen like rollouts for abs.
Curls and tricep presses, wrist curls and isometric holds, finishing with glute bridges and pistol squats.
Yoga for shoulders and getting used to hangman pose, so it’s a bit less uncomfortable. Stretching for upper body.
Small edges, 6x10 seconds on 6mm. Some pinch training with square and flared blocks, lowering the weight slightly but increasing duration.
Extra stretching for pancake, which I am getting closer to the ground in and bizarre as it sounds today was the first time since around 2006 that I’ve been able to put both big toes on my mouth at once, maybe not the most useful of things to be able to do.

T - Start with 5 minute plank, front levers, windscreen wipers and back levers, plus 50 easy roll outs.
Pull-ups, lock offs and some shoulder lwork.
Yoga for back and shoulders, which are definitely opening up, slowly but surely. Stretching for splits.
Max pulls with the Tindeq again, 10x10 second pulls. Good results, marginally better than last week and again good consistency. Do think this is a good way of measuring this.

F - Start with 3x3 minute planks, floor routine and 60 rollouts.
Yoga for twists, feet and hands. Stretching for upper body and pancake.
Goal is Density hangs for 6x45 seconds, which I finally manage.
Compression is Is and Ts for 3x10, isometric holds for 3x20 seconds and 3x20 press-ups. Do some stuff for wrist extensors and flexors.

S - 25 hard roll outs, yoga for shoulders and stretching for splits. Manage to do a full five minutes in hangman pose, which I really would not have believed I could ever do six weeks ago.
Finger strength benchmarking, good progress in absolute and relative terms on every single measure from last month and some significant improvements over when I started benchmarking and consistent fingerboard training in November.

S - Walk around the ark. 50 easy roll outs, yoga for abs, stretching for upper body.

Think things are feeling pretty good and have managed to stay motivated throughout Lockdown. Hit the lightest weight I’ve been in around three years and managed to maintain consistency of effort

dunnyg

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#7 Re: Power Club 574 15-21 Mar
March 21, 2021, 08:03:11 pm
Mon. Bit of a warm up then a leg stretch session. Much regression. Need to keep it regular

Tu. Some local, (now retroclaimed) FAs up to 6B for an hour, followed by leg stretch,

We. Local pootle. Got scared on easy highballs. Will burnt me off. Light core, reverse wrist curls and some leg stretch.

Thu. Nowt
Fri. Nowt

Sat. Caley. Got up ron's reach, which I really enjoyed, despite getting a bit scared, and bens groove, which I hadn't tried before. Shut down by juju club, got one hand on the top and couldnt do anything. Might have just been out of beans? Loads of other new problems too up to 6C.

Sun. Caley. Shut down by the prow sit, got up Otzi arete and pedastool arete. Did a few easies inluding a cool 6B (hanging flake) just down from one man and his dogmas. Proper good. Didn't take any food so pretty wrecked by the end of the day.

Average week training wise, but getting out 4 days a week and trying hard, so all good. Keen to get juju club some time soon, and fancy block buster too. The prow sit should go at some point. I need some shit weather so I can do some training! Still haven't tried pulling on any 7Cs, but enjoying the quick ticks of slightly easier things.

moose

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#8 Re: Power Club 574 15-21 Mar
March 21, 2021, 08:46:29 pm
Sat. Caley. Got up ron's reach, which I really enjoyed, despite getting a bit scared, and bens groove, which I hadn't tried before. Shut down by juju club, got one hand on the top and couldnt do anything. Might have just been out of beans? Loads of other new problems too up to 6C.

Doing Ron's Reach is one of the scariest times I've had bouldering.  At the end of an evening session I decided to have a feel of the start holds, just to see if it was worth a revisit when in condition.  Next thing I know, I'm in the groove, my pads are still folded under the start and miles away, it's almost dark, and the crag is deserted. The groove above was filthy and damp and I spent a while deciding whether to jump off and accept the certainty of pain, or try to climb out of trouble and risk greater injury.  Not exactly an alpine epic but happy times!

I think we must have crossed paths on Saturday.  Over lunchtime, I decided to take advantage of Bradders' paddage under Ben's Grove and have only my second set of tries on the problem - over 10 years of envious looks, due to landing concerns.  It seems my misgivings were merited - I promptly took a weird fall, bounced downhill off the pads, and bloodily scraped away flesh from my back and elbows. Going home to drink beer (medicinal reasons - anaesthetic... trust me I'm a Doctor) and watch football soon followed.

Liamhutch89

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#9 Re: Power Club 574 15-21 Mar
March 21, 2021, 09:53:51 pm
Last weeks deload helped a lot and it felt good getting back to training this week, capped off with a great day on rock.

M - lunch hour repeaters

Evening strength workout: OAP's, handstand presses, glute ham raises, weighted leg raises. Lots of sets, generally low rep ranges.

T - rest + mobility stuff

W - lunch hour velocity pulls on a 6mm edge. Followed up with max hangs including back 3 max hangs after finding that I am extremely weak in this position

Evening board session. Power focus.

T - rest + mobility stuff

F - repeat of Mondays training hitting all progressive overload targets

S - rest + mobility

S - Stanage Plantation. I last visited in August 2019 when I'd just started bouldering outside. On that visit I managed a 5+ and two 6A's, so it was nice to compare and see that I've progressed a lot since then.
 
Started on Brass Monkeys. This one has been on my radar for a while as it's quintessentially my style and looks really good too. I sussed the moves out then did it within about 5 goes from the bottom, which was actually a bit underwhelming as I'd set aside all day to do it! Seems most people on ukc think it's 7C, but maybe 7B+ is a better fit comparing it to other squeezes I've done. Video below from a different angle to what everyone else uses: 
https://www.instagram.com/p/CMsKMcgpm-hqYh860Ik1WKg3bL1mu4JnACOrnk0/?igshid=1cnfmjg5zy3fg

Help the young. Did it from a continental start. Allegedly 7A+ from a jump start, which felt about right. It was OK but I didn't think it was anything special considering all the stars and praise it seems to get. One comment on ukc reads 'best 7a+ on grit'. I think not.

Hippocampus. The sit start overhanging arete right next to help the young. It's short but climbs really nicely, campusing off your bum to place the toe hook and is well worth doing. It needs a strong downgrade though from the 7C given. It's no harder than 7B with the toe hook, maybe even 7A+...

Next went to Brad Pitt. Shut down. Got the side pull with one hand but it felt slippy and I couldn't move off it. Maybe I was just goosed at this point. Didn't try for long.

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#10 Re: Power Club 574 15-21 Mar
March 21, 2021, 10:00:25 pm
Well done Rob, Duma and Liamhutch.

M - Fairlop. Warmed-up with about 10 up problems then got stuck into a couple of traverses on the roofed block. Pumping out after about 6 moves, not good! Tried ‘The Italians’ problem (about 6B?). Walked 10km.
T - Plasma donation, so not supposed to do strenuous exercise. The shoulder strength routine of planks, handstands and added some overhead presses.
W - Felt a bit tired so just did some loaded hangs on a 20mm edge and the shoulder strength routine as above.
T - Hip/Knee strength: squats, single-leg squats. Shoulder strength as above. Loaded hangs on 20mm edge. Weighted pull-ups.
F - Fairlop: ‘Blue Circuit’ type day: 25 problems 3+ to 5+. Had my second vaccination 💉. Did some deltoid exercises (overhead presses) to try to avoid the sore shoulder I had after the first one.
S - No shoulder soreness but felt distinctly below par, so just did the usual shoulder strength exercises.
S - Fairlop, with another family. Most of East London there including 3 slacklines and a Tai-Chi class in progress. Still felt a bit tired and spent a lot of the time child-wrangling. Did a couple of new-to-me problems in the ~6A range and got spat off repeatedly by another. One of the children has learning difficulties and quite severe dyspraxia. When she was younger she struggled to descend a flight of stairs. It was the first time she’d done any climbing and she was pretty nervous to begin with. She has considerable tenacity and determination though and kept trying a particular problem dozens of times until succeeding. I can’t remember when I last saw someone derive so much pleasure from getting to the top of something, it was quite lovely to witness.

Psyche returned somewhat this week. Tweaks better, probably for doing some actual climbing alongside the basic exercises. Good to get the vaccination done. 8 days until we can climb again; should think of some goals for the year.

In other news, I stubbed my big toe four months ago, 75% of the nail-bed turned black at the time but I thought I’d held onto the nail. It now feels like it might be coming off. I’ve sacked-off the running for the moment and taken to wearing sandals. Currently climbing in my baggiest shoes, which is not ideal. Any beta on this?

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#11 Re: Power Club 574 15-21 Mar
March 21, 2021, 10:32:18 pm
Quote
I think we must have crossed paths on Saturday....

Yeah I think we did, I thought it was you but I am yet to regain my social skills post lockdown it turns out, sorry about that! I was wombling round in a black hoody and repeatedly dropping Ron's reach for a bit before you left I think.
Hearing various horror stories of Ron's reach, I feel pretty lucky to have climbed just after someone brushed it up, and with plentiful pads and spotters! It felt exciting enough when it was clean and dry.

I missed the fall, but did get a glimpse of the various holes it made in you! Which bit did you drop to manage that? I hope you aren't too bruised and battered today!

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#12 Re: Power Club 574 15-21 Mar
March 22, 2021, 06:23:32 am
Mostly still just DIYing, but snuck in a session on The Terrace to try and finish my remaining Q1 goal of "making some progress" on a 7C. Bit of a woolly definition!

Weds
Burbage North, spent slightly too long burning skin on a couple of 7s to the right of The Terrace, then gave that a good go. Went alright, first move far and away the hardest for me. Managed I think every other move on its own, so think I should be able to have a good go at it next session, linking bits together even if I don't get the first move.
If anyone's got any sneaky foot beta to start that would be helpful!

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#13 Re: Power Club 574 15-21 Mar
March 22, 2021, 08:08:44 am
Quote
I think we must have crossed paths on Saturday....
I missed the fall, but did get a glimpse of the various holes it made in you! Which bit did you drop to manage that? I hope you aren't too bruised and battered today!

Thankfully, I fell from low down - while hitting the pocket - and bounced off the mats, head-first along the edge of the rocks behind them.  I suspect that surprise at slipping so suddenly from low down was partly why it was such a weird fall (I had previously been getting into the crack in steady fashion, then just struggling to reposition the left-foot).  No real harm done, just a lingering unenthusiasm the next day!

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#14 Re: Power Club 574 15-21 Mar
March 22, 2021, 08:40:45 am
Good week by the looks of things!

M - rest.

T - max hangs. Felt weak again, should have rested two days. Didn't feel run down so much as powered out, so did some stability hangs and called it.

W - rest.

T - Repeaters. Decided to do a bit more volume, so anderson hangs on 10mm bodyweight, bottom outside +kg and 20mm +5kg. Failed on the last rep of the latter two. Good session as I have historically found a full set on the 10mm hard work.

F - rest.

S - faced with a choice between watching sport all day (England cricket, England rugby and hopefully watching the Welsh lose) or going out I decided to go out on the basis it was the best option for my mood. This was swiftly proved to be the right decision as England got battered in both games. Back to Anston to try Fine Beta. Sorted the sections and thought it would go fast but was finding the start of Fine Art nails and quite greasy compared to last time. Dropped the final move moving into Beta Blocker and felt spent. After a long rest and some energy gel goo stuff I thought I was off the whole way but scraped up it. Pleased with this, good training and probably as close to 7C as I have climbed for a few years, even if its likely to be soft. Watched the Wales game until 60 minutes and turned it off in disgust as didn't want to see them win; delighted when I checked the news later!

S - quick session at Forest Rock which I have never really liked, but wanted to get out of the house. I still don't really like it but got a few 7s done.

Not a bad week. Pleased to get a 7C done which might be worth the grade. If so it would be my first since Jan 2019 - over two years!  :o

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#15 Re: Power Club 574 15-21 Mar
March 22, 2021, 08:55:39 am
I was party to a similar tumble off Ben's Groove which put me off it - mate managed an almost perfect backwards somersault over my (spotting) head, and into those same boulders that mashed you up Moose.

Like the "Red Baron smear slip" and "Crusis foot lock", I think it's one of a few nasty falls you can take off Yorkshire classics!

Not much for me this week thanks to evening calls with overseas clients and a poorly daughter. Went to Shipley to get my son out, met up with the Hunt Clan and got the kids psyched for some crushing.

In non-climbing achievements, I managed Sun - Fri booze-free, and ended up in profit for Cheltenham, inc. picking the Gold Cup winner for the first time.


 

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#16 Re: Power Club 574 15-21 Mar
March 22, 2021, 09:19:18 am
M - Rest

T - Trail run 13.05km 512m. Most of this was not running, but wading through waist deep powder after winter came back with a vengeance!  Shoulder stability and core. Pulley assisted one arm hangs BM middle edge. Pretty terrible - after weeks of gradually dropping the assisted weight I had to add weight back on and even then my form was terrible and I kept dropping out of the hangs. Weighted hangs BM outside lower edges. I had been adding 20kg for this but this time I could only manage 5 hangs with 10kg. A poor session where my fingers and shoulders felt weak and I couldn't get any friction on the fingerboard.

W - Trail run 4.5km 166m. Low energy.

T - Trail run 17km 517m. NG PE session on lattice rung. Good session completing all 4 sets.

F - Trail run 17.26km 539m.

S - Trail run 19.15km 571m. Pulley assisted one hangs BM middle edge. A bit better than Tuesdays session. Weighted two arm hangs BM lower outer edges + 10kg x 5. Weighted pull ups (3 x 3 24kg, 4 x 5 15kg, 3 x 8 10kg).

S - AM: Skiing. PM: Slopers and pockets. Weighted two arm hangs BM lower outer edges + 10kg x 5. Weighted finger curls (1 x 100 10kg, 2 x 100 15kg). TRX, shoulder pulls (using pulley and weights), hamstring exercises using Swiss ball.

I realised towards the end of this week that I had been suffering from a bit of a physical (and maybe mental too) burnout. I had been a bit fatigued but I assumed this would be resolved with a lighter week but it lasted almost a week and a half in the end. This usually happens to me at least once or twice a year but I don't realise until after it happens! Recording my training on here pretty consistently over the last 18 months is useful as I can read back and always see what led up to getting overly fatigued. In the last two weeks I had gone backwards on all my training which was frustrating after months of slow but steady progress. Adding weight back on for assistance wasn't part of the plan! Anyway, by Thursday I was feeling much better and the stark contrast made me realise how tired I had been. Winter came back so a session on the 8c was out but this was probably a blessing in disguise. The good thing is I realise now that my previous two sessions on the route had probably been very compromised and yet there was still a lot of progress strength-wise on the route. The strict weekly training plan I had written is now out and I am back to just going by how I feel rather than trying to force a certain number of units of training into a week.

moose

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#17 Re: Power Club 574 15-21 Mar
March 22, 2021, 09:22:56 am
Like the "Red Baron smear slip" and "Crusis foot lock", I think it's one of a few nasty falls you can take off Yorkshire classics!

I've taken those too! Pebble Wall is another one for foot-lock horror - hanging upside down by a trapped ankle.  I once took a nasty fall from Phil's Wall at Shipley - foot hit the lip of the low break on the way down, and flipped me upside-down over my mats.  I needed an X-ray, which thankfully showed I hadn't broken my ankle but it was pretty swollen for a good while.

Bradders

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#18 Re: Power Club 574 15-21 Mar
March 22, 2021, 09:24:59 am
I was party to a similar tumble off Ben's Groove which put me off it - mate managed an almost perfect backwards somersault over my (spotting) head, and into those same boulders that mashed you up Moose.

Like the "Red Baron smear slip" and "Crusis foot lock", I think it's one of a few nasty falls you can take off Yorkshire classics!

Interesting, I've spent A LOT of time on Ben's and never seen anyone come off like Moose! It was particularly spectacular/painful looking, and I almost felt guilty about not having spotted.  :-\ ;)

sxrxg

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#19 Re: Power Club 574 15-21 Mar
March 22, 2021, 09:48:18 am

Weds
Burbage North, spent slightly too long burning skin on a couple of 7s to the right of The Terrace, then gave that a good go. Went alright, first move far and away the hardest for me. Managed I think every other move on its own, so think I should be able to have a good go at it next session, linking bits together even if I don't get the first move.
If anyone's got any sneaky foot beta to start that would be helpful!

I did this move using the right foot on the foot block/ground to ingrain the movement, I then used the right foot smear and could do the move first try. Might be worth giving it a go.

SA Chris

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#20 Re: Power Club 574 15-21 Mar
March 22, 2021, 10:37:35 am

Doing Ron's Reach is one of the scariest times I've had bouldering.  At the end of an evening session I decided to have a feel of the start holds, just to see if it was worth a revisit when in condition.  Next thing I know, I'm in the groove, my pads are still folded under the start and miles away, it's almost dark, and the crag is deserted. The groove above was filthy and damp and I spent a while deciding whether to jump off and accept the certainty of pain, or try to climb out of trouble and risk greater injury.  Not exactly an alpine epic but happy times!


I had exactly the same experience, except had a spotter but no pad. got to the filthy top, and wasn't sure if it was better for the spotter to get to the top and clean it for me, or just keep spotting.

Had a similar experience later too, after bouldering Angel's Wall and Rabbit's Paw I surprised myself by getting across to the arete on Permutation Rib leaving the pad at the start, and seeing the large boulder in the landing zone. Getting dark, and no-one about I had to press on for the top, thinking I could at least crawl to the road from there if it went wrong..

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#21 Re: Power Club 574 15-21 Mar
March 22, 2021, 10:42:02 am
I like to think I'm at least OK on slabs. I fell off the initial traverse of Ron's Reach a few times and even once in the groove I think I fell off, once with my hand reaching for the top. I don't even think it was that mucky when I did it.

Carl

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#22 Re: Power Club 574 15-21 Mar
March 22, 2021, 11:27:21 am
I did this move using the right foot on the foot block/ground to ingrain the movement, I then used the right foot smear and could do the move first try. Might be worth giving it a go.

Definitely worth a punt, I'll have a go, cheers.

Nibile

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#23 Re: Power Club 574 15-21 Mar
March 22, 2021, 12:05:14 pm

Power Club
Mon - Lattice edge pick ups, 14 at 60 kg. Steady. Bar work. Snatch. Nice session.
Tue  - rest.
Wed - PE low 30/15 x6. 1/1 x3. Brilliant. Snatch DL 5x5 90/92 kg. Snatch pulls 5x5 60 kg. Snatch 5x3 40 kg.
Thu - circuit! 3 blocks of 10 moves x2. Tried long rests in between blocks, 5' and 4'30". Completed the circuit quite well. I think I'll start trying it in two blocks of 15 moves. Clean and press x5 + overhead carry 1' 41 kg x6.
Fri - rest.
Sat - hours and hours of log splitting. Some weights.
Sun - one arm dumbbell snatch + overhead carry. Wheel and hammer. Hill sprints.

Duncan Disorderly

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#24 Re: Power Club 574 15-21 Mar
March 22, 2021, 12:08:17 pm
M: Shoulder stability and elbow stuff - Good long session, felt good!
T: Bouldering and easy solos @ Stanage with the daughter... Glorious!
W: Sheaf boulder - Got on my old PE training circuit (was a project once - could lap it when fit!), gets 6C on the topo but is more like F7b IMO... Start felt nails but soon came together, fell off going round the final arete due to powering out and baggy boots... Felt fucking hard!
T: Tired but went to Horseshit - Ticked another couple off me starrred list... Actually did an F6a+/6b arete that felt more like F6c!
F: Rest - Elbow stuff
S: Horseshit - 5 or 6 routes... Highlights were a shit F6a for the star tick and a starred F6b than felt more like E3 - Actually got pretty pumped and couldn't feel me fingers but was pleased with how the head felt running it out when pumped and cold...
S: Bike ride with the daughter - off road round Barbrook.... Ace!

Good week... Felt like I did a lot but was also tired a lot, no board or hangboard sessions but definitely putting the hours in... Shoulders and elbows are still tender but seem managble...

 

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