UKBouldering.com

Thread split: Voyager hold damage (Read 15505 times)

petejh

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 5776
  • Karma: +621/-36
#75 Re: Thread split: Voyager hold damage
March 17, 2021, 09:33:56 am
So to summarise..
By the accepted norms of 'quality' in bouldering, Voyager is an excellent 2-star problem, flawed slightly by it relying on the delicate footholds of the neighbouring problem for hands.
The search for the holy grail of a 3-star grit 8b remains?
The end.

Bradders

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2785
  • Karma: +135/-3
#76 Re: Thread split: Voyager hold damage
March 17, 2021, 09:59:46 am
The search for the holy grail of a 3-star grit 8b remains?

Have you not been to Yorkshire?

dunnyg

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1521
  • Karma: +91/-7
#77 Re: Thread split: Voyager hold damage
March 17, 2021, 10:07:05 am
Is there an 8B link up in dwr yet?

Bradders

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2785
  • Karma: +135/-3
#78 Re: Thread split: Voyager hold damage
March 17, 2021, 10:56:42 am
It would never get 8B even if there was.

mark s

Offline
  • ****
  • junky
  • Posts: 862
  • Karma: +78/-4
#79 Re: Thread split: Voyager hold damage
April 13, 2021, 10:43:01 pm
Which one takes priority over the other isn't an issue to me.

What it highlights is more damage to the rock and once the rock is open, more damage can easily follow.
This isn't a new issue with grit but seems more and more in discussion.
The message about not climbing on damp or wet grit/sandstone doesn't seem to be sinking in. I don't know who the culprits are but as more and more climb outside for the 1st and often travelling a long way. Is it a case of "we have driven for 3 hours, I'm not going home. Let's just climb"
I've seen lots of posts online explaining why not to do it, the people doing it surely have seen it talked about. They are choosing to ignore this unwritten/not so unwritten rule.

mrjonathanr

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 5377
  • Karma: +242/-6
  • Getting fatter, not fitter.
#80 Re: Thread split: Voyager hold damage
April 14, 2021, 10:47:32 am
I’ve lost track of the number of times recently I’ve thought there is a need for more transfer from indoors to outdoors courses. Some operators provide them but overall I don’t think the need is being met. With coaching and good training facilities it is no longer true that the first forays outside are going to be on F5+ / V diff either.

SA Chris

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 29221
  • Karma: +630/-11
    • http://groups.msn.com/ChrisClix
#81 Re: Thread split: Voyager hold damage
April 14, 2021, 12:21:34 pm
Pretty sure the opposite is true. People starting climbing outdoors will be happy to start at the bottom, but regular wall users who are bouldering or doing routes in the mid 7s will often think they should be able to do the same outdoors.

mrjonathanr

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 5377
  • Karma: +242/-6
  • Getting fatter, not fitter.
#82 Re: Thread split: Voyager hold damage
April 14, 2021, 12:24:56 pm
Pretty sure the opposite is true.

The opposite to what?



SA Chris

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 29221
  • Karma: +630/-11
    • http://groups.msn.com/ChrisClix
#83 Re: Thread split: Voyager hold damage
April 14, 2021, 12:26:34 pm
Sorry, unclear, not wanting to start on V.diff / F5+

mrjonathanr

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 5377
  • Karma: +242/-6
  • Getting fatter, not fitter.
#84 Re: Thread split: Voyager hold damage
April 14, 2021, 12:33:59 pm
Totally agree, I think entry level standards (or expectations, at least) outdoors have shot up because people can get so strong indoors first.

 

SimplePortal 2.3.7 © 2008-2024, SimplePortal