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Thread split: Voyager hold damage (Read 5668 times)

teestub

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Thread split: Voyager hold damage
March 11, 2021, 07:08:39 pm
What has broken on Voyager?

BRidal

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#1 Re: Thread split: Voyager hold damage
March 11, 2021, 07:20:17 pm
What has broken on Voyager?
The pinch on the lip for the left hand that most people roll over to from the flat crimp. There used to be crystals for every finger that you could hook your skin on to, the middle two crystals have now gone, so the hold is still there, it's just quite a lot worse.

teestub

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#2 Re: Thread split: Voyager hold damage
March 11, 2021, 07:25:28 pm
Cheers, crazy how much difference such a small change can make on the grit.

Bonjoy

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#3 Re: Thread split: Voyager hold damage
March 12, 2021, 09:52:18 am
To my knowledge nobody has done the crux move since, and I would speculate that the easiest way now will be by a different sequence, closer to what Ben did on the first ascent. I think there is a reasonable chance that it is now 8C from a sit...
Do you know if Ben used his harder beta when he did the sit, or just on the stand and then revised the beta for the sit? I.e. was his sit beta potentially (BGfBB) 8C.

T_B

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#4 Re: Thread split: Voyager hold damage
March 12, 2021, 10:06:27 am

highrepute

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#5 Re: Thread split: Voyager hold damage
March 12, 2021, 10:35:43 am
 :popcorn:

8C for Ben then

Ru

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#6 Re: Thread split: Voyager hold damage
March 12, 2021, 10:49:16 am
Are we talking about the hand shuffle/clock move he does to get his left on the flat crimp (0:30-0:34)? If so, I think he did the FA of Voyager by the normal sequence but used the hand shuffle on the FA of Voyager Sit.

El Mocho

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#7 Re: Thread split: Voyager hold damage
March 12, 2021, 11:11:35 am
I don't think the original sequence is much harder - in fact it is easier for me doing it that way... that was before the hold broke though. I've had a good look at all the holds since break (off a rope) and they were all getting pretty hammered, the little crimpy flake (hold you jump to on stand start) was flexing a touch, the broken hold has lost the 2 best bits so is almost 50% worse, the hold round right on the face was really hammered... It's had a touch of reinforcement since then so hopefully it'll be stable from now on.


Bradders

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#8 Re: Thread split: Voyager hold damage
March 12, 2021, 11:28:04 am
Just a thought; am I right that much of the damage is from the super wet Autumn / early Winter 2019? As opposed to gradual deterioration over a long time through simple overuse?

Worth emphasising if the former, the dangers of climbing on fragile grit that has only just dried out after a prolonged wet spell.

Bonjoy

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#9 Re: Thread split: Voyager hold damage
March 15, 2021, 01:46:52 pm
Just a thought; am I right that much of the damage is from the super wet Autumn / early Winter 2019? As opposed to gradual deterioration over a long time through simple overuse?

Worth emphasising if the former, the dangers of climbing on fragile grit that has only just dried out after a prolonged wet spell.
I wonder how much if any of the damage is from people climbing Sphinx. Standing on crystally handholds is way worse then pulling on them for erosion. Bit of a weird one but it's perhaps worth people not climbing the Sphinx anymore.

remus

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#10 Re: Thread split: Voyager hold damage
March 15, 2021, 02:02:04 pm
Bit of a weird one but it's perhaps worth people not climbing the Sphinx anymore.

I don't know what the right answer is but it'd be a shame if people couldn't climb the sphinx any more. It's hardly a shit problem.

northern yob

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#11 Re: Thread split: Voyager hold damage
March 15, 2021, 02:38:07 pm
 
Bit of a weird one but it's perhaps worth people not climbing the Sphinx anymore.
:o :popcorn:
 

ali k

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#12 Re: Thread split: Voyager hold damage
March 15, 2021, 02:48:05 pm
Bit of a weird one but it's perhaps worth people not climbing the Sphinx anymore.
:o :popcorn:
Can people also stop climbing Something Stupid pls?

Will Hunt

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#13 Re: Thread split: Voyager hold damage
March 15, 2021, 03:08:49 pm
Bit of a weird one but it's perhaps worth people not climbing the Sphinx anymore.
:o :popcorn:


And Demon Wall...

Duma

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#14 Re: Thread split: Voyager hold damage
March 15, 2021, 10:05:17 pm
Bit of a weird one but it's perhaps worth people not climbing the Sphinx anymore.
Fuck. That.

T_B

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#15 Re: Thread split: Voyager hold damage
March 15, 2021, 10:26:56 pm
Iíve never seen anyone on The Sphinx. Itís not even got one log from 2020 on UKC. Probably seen half a dozen folk on Voyager and Iíve seen it caked in chalk when itís been damp. I think itís a stretch to suggest itís been broken by boot rubber.

haydn jones

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#16 Re: Thread split: Voyager hold damage
March 15, 2021, 10:30:48 pm
Just a thought; am I right that much of the damage is from the super wet Autumn / early Winter 2019? As opposed to gradual deterioration over a long time through simple overuse?

Worth emphasising if the former, the dangers of climbing on fragile grit that has only just dried out after a prolonged wet spell.
I wonder how much if any of the damage is from people climbing Sphinx. Standing on crystally handholds is way worse then pulling on them for erosion. Bit of a weird one but it's perhaps worth people not climbing the Sphinx anymore.

I know for a fact that the hand hold broke from someone (I'm not naming any names as I think that's a bit unfair) standing on it doing the sphynx but its definitely not their fault and I'm in agreement with Duma regarding stopping people from doing another climb just because you stand on the hand holds of another.

T_B

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#17 Re: Thread split: Voyager hold damage
March 15, 2021, 10:33:48 pm
Did you break it Haydn!?  :chair:

haydn jones

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#18 Re: Thread split: Voyager hold damage
March 15, 2021, 10:36:50 pm
Did you break it Haydn!?  :chair:

No, but if it was me I would say as its not a crime to break holds (unless through carelessness like climbing in the damp) its just the nature of gritstone crystals that it will eventually break.

Will Hunt

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#19 Re: Thread split: Voyager hold damage
March 15, 2021, 10:39:10 pm
Iíve never seen anyone on The Sphinx. Itís not even got one log from 2020 on UKC. Probably seen half a dozen folk on Voyager and Iíve seen it caked in chalk when itís been damp. I think itís a stretch to suggest itís been broken by boot rubber.

Sounds like people need to stop climbing Voyager.

cheque

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#20 Re: Thread split: Voyager hold damage
March 15, 2021, 11:32:26 pm
Iíve never seen anyone on The Sphinx.

Me neither and it's one of the routes I always look to see if anyone's climbing whenever I'm at the crag with a camera. From that completely neutral perspective I reckon it needs more ascents.

lukeyboy

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#21 Re: Thread split: Voyager hold damage
March 16, 2021, 06:36:23 am
Iíve never seen anyone on The Sphinx. Itís not even got one log from 2020 on UKC. Probably seen half a dozen folk on Voyager and Iíve seen it caked in chalk when itís been damp. I think itís a stretch to suggest itís been broken by boot rubber.

Sounds like people need to stop climbing Voyager.

I'm happy to not climb Voyager for the good of everyone. You're welcome.

nik at work

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#22 Re: Thread split: Voyager hold damage
March 16, 2021, 07:39:23 am
Bit of a weird one but it's perhaps worth people not climbing the Sphinx anymore.
Fuck. That.
I assumed Bonjoy had tongue quite firmly wedged in cheek when writing the above? But if not Iíd agree Duma.

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#23 Re: Thread split: Voyager hold damage
March 16, 2021, 09:38:33 am
So people should, or perhaps shouldn't, be avoiding something they've always avoided, to avoid damaging holds on something else, which is both not an issue because people have always avoided it, but also an issue because that's actually how the holds were damaged.

Okay, got it  :yes:

shark

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#24 Re: Thread split: Voyager hold damage
March 16, 2021, 09:53:43 am
Itís an extra reason to avoid it.

 

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