[RobK]

Evening everyone, hope all is well.

M – Max hangs at +27kg. All complete 30 minutes of stretching in the evening.

T – Accepted a mate’s invite for a session down at the racecourse walls (vert stone wall traversey thing). Not my cup of tea and always niggles my elbows so I only pulled on twice but was pleased with how strong I was feeling on all the crimps.

W – Holy cow, where do I start? Excuse the self-indulgent write up. The mother of all board sessions. Feeling a bit tired warming up but got into the swing of things. Tried the crux move of my long-term project (I set it on my first ever board session last April) and stuck it. It involves a sideways move off a small ratty crimp in the 6-8mm range and I have probably only done this move in isolation a handful of times in a LOT of tries. Interesting. I had one initial go from the start and was stopped by a foot pop. Never mind, a small rest and then another go. Got to the crux move feeling good and stuck it! The final match is a hard move in itself though but managed to compose myself to finish it off. YYFY. Link to video below. I was feeling pretty good so had a go at another project I’ve had since last summer-ish. Finished that off first go and it didn’t even feel hard. Even more interesting. Moved on to a project which I abandoned last year because I just couldn’t do the crux move. Bashed that out first go too. I didn’t quite know what to think at this point, by my lowly standards I was feeling pretty bionic. Only two more unfinished projects left now in my little book. Moved on to one which I had convinced myself a while ago that the crux move is not actually possible. Obviously pulled on and did that move in isolation first go. Unfortunately that is where the ticklist stops. I got very close to linking both of the remaining projects but no cigar on either of them and I could feel myself tiring so called it a day and went to watch the football with a celebratory beer.
https://www.instagram.com/p/CMQBhFrDkd6/

T – Crimpd 80% repeaters at +13kg. All complete with what felt like something left in the tank. 10 x 10 press ups and 30 minutes stretching afterwards.

F – Board endurance. Was planning a broken quarters session but my right middle finger let out a warning twinge warming up so changed plans and did a more aerobic session on the jugs. 15 x 1 minute on/off. Initial low levels of pump growing to fairly high levels by the end!

S – Rest.

S – Max hangs at +28kg. Failed on the last rep, happy with that. Followed by a good TRX session with Ts, supermans, rows and reverse Ts.

Fair to say that was a good week. I have never had a session like Wednesday before. Welsh restrictions have eased a little this weekend so looking forward to some local raids and maybe getting back to Nesscliffe later in the week if the weather holds. Also had a week off the low intensity hangs this week. This was more by accident than anything. I kept forgetting to do them early in the week and after three days off thought a week off them would be no bad thing. I think I like them so will probably re-introduce them this week.

[shark]

Nice write up Rob

11.7-8 average 162.0 no change

M. AM FB. Set of recruitment and speed pulls. No word from Matthew - must have broken him last week. Tor. 7degrees Nice day - bit of sun. Bens for first time in 2 weeks. Warmed up on cross thru. Managed it 5 times out of 9. (Found splitting fingers Vulcan style as reaching thru helps to get awkward pinch better). Rest. From pocket and crimp to kick at first attempt then 3 fails on throw. Rest. Throw at first attempt linking to kick. From start 4 attempts with 2 goes tickling the crimp. Another day at the office.
Eve. 4x5 Fast pull-ups with +16lb. Chest to  bar 13x. 4x5 Fast deadlifts @ 55kgs. 3x3 OH press @ 35kgs and 3x3 squat jumps. Wrist curls 1x10 pronated @13kg 3x10 supinated @ 8kg.

T. FB Deep Rake with Haydn. Cold. Not been before. Decent venue. On warm ups it was clear I was busted from previous day and had tight forearms. Got closish to flashing 7a and was wrecked from the effort. Long rest belaying then redpointed it. Called it a day and Haydn carried on and did everything else. And we had a couple of games of chess. Felt like I’d been run over by a bus when I got home and went to sleep for 2 hours. Pretty shocking meltdown and not very promising. One step forward, two steps back. Deeply disappointing.

W.

T.

F. Lunch FB set of recruitment and speed pulls. PM Tor. Late start to let weather blow over (some snow in morning). Bit apprehensive following Tuesdays meltdown but 2 days rest seemed to have worked its magic. Bens. Practiced hard moves. Did throw in isolation at first attempt. Nice. 5 goes from start improving with each go. Penultimate go overshot crimp and then final go latched it but tired and fingers melted out of the crimp. Decent session.

S.

S. AM Set of recruitment and speed pulls PM Systems board. Gastons sequence. Completed old An Cap circuit with slightly harder version of throw move (going off good incut edge). New AnCap routine laddering up and down the incut edges timing 3 secs a move using crap screw on footholds leading into the throw move as above. Completed a set of 4 with 3 mins rest between each go (reduced from 4 mins) Second set managed it twice and failed at throw on 3rd attempt. Similar performance to last weekend

Odd week.

[dunnyg]

Mon. nada
tu nada
we nada
thurs. The inaugral board sesh. Thu. 1.5 hr Board sesh. Figuring out warm ups and what I can hold. warm up. leg syretch.
Fri. nada
Sat. DIY ruined planned board sesh

Sun. Board sesh. Did some good pinchy problems, and have a good project for next time, I did all the moves, but couldnt link. Psyche!


Weak week. Putting board holds on and otherwise lowish psyche for non board activities limited play. Arms feeling better though, so onwards and upwards. Should get specific goals set really to make the nost of the board, but Im currently just enjoying trying hard on it!

[csl]

Good effort climbing all your board projects Rob!

March goals

- Tick a 7 at either Shoreditch or Mabley Green. Doing a 7B would be a bonus. Not yet.
- 20x stretching or mobility. 5/20 - bad week for this
- Stick to the plan, don't miss any sessions. Good week. Skipped AeroCap for some DIY, but otherwise some good training.

Monday
Hardly slept as I had something in my eye, but went out to Shoreditch park at 6am. 2 days plasterboarding a ceiling are not good prep for climbing so I gave up very quickly and went back home to bed. Ended up doing more DIY in the afternoon  .

Tuesday
Rest

Wednesday
10mm edge hangs.
Board projecting, good session. Came very close on a project. 
Movement drills: staying open - felt this in the shoulders.
Wide grip pullups 5x5 + 6kg.

Mobility/Stretching

Thursday
Rest

Friday
Flashes on the board, made up some really good problems for this. 5x5 assisted 1 armers.

Saturday
Rest

Sunday
2 Arm Max hangs up to 120kg half crimp and 93kg on 3FD.
Boulder Doubles - good session.

30mins Stretching

Ok week, was wasted at the start of it but had a couple of good sessions towards the end.

[Carl]

A summary of the last two weeks roughly goes:
DIY x8
Nice evening doing Banana Reverse
DIY x5

Who knew moving house was so much work? Hopefully I can get the most important things done (home desk!), and then the DIY can be a little less urgent and all consuming.

Still got a couple of weeks to make some progress on a 7C to complete my Q1 goals, hopefully achievable!

[Duma]

Nice board session Rob!

M - am 14 min fb. 12hr shift. Too knackered in eve for anything.
T - am 14 min fb. 12hr shift. Eve assisted OAPs, down to -4kg on L, -7kg on R. Down from last week, but I'm at least half a kg heavier and it was after a long shift.
W - am 14 min fb. Eve 5k run, flat, pavement, 19:52, YYFY! Really happy to get this (sub 20) done, I was probably fit enough ten years ago when I ran a 1:30:49 half, but never tried it. Pushing hard running is a real reminder of how easy climbing is on the cardiovascular side.
T - rest
F - am 14 min fb. Pm bit of a wander and bramble bashing from a rope. 12 hr night shift.
S - too tired for fb when got in from work. Pm board 90 min, took a while to get going and hail showers were sucking psyche, but ok in the end. New pinches problem and managed my pocket benchmark on the hardest feet. 12 hr night shift.
S - again cba to fb after work. pm assisted OAPs, down to -4.5 L, -7 R crappy session, may have just been that I'd just got up, or perhaps last week was a fluke. 12 hr night shift.

69.5 kg.

[Will Hunt]

Due to lousy weather I don't think I've done anything this week 

[dunnyg]

Does the rain get into your garage?

[User deactivated.]

There seems to have been a running theme of relative inactivity over the last week. I too have just had a deload, perhaps my first deload week ever? I say a week but I managed about 5 days - I'm a training junkie and have always been doing some form of training since being a teenager.

M - severely over trained, joints feeling wrecked, skin terrible, but rain due for the rest of the week forced me back to red baron roof to try and see it off. I give the compression move a few squeezes to warm up, felt weak from the start, get shooting pains down my arms and already one finger is bleeding before I've put my climbing shoes on. I then acted like a complete idiot and desperately tried out of frustration with 110% until I'd split 9 out of 10 fingers and my arms were hurting even more, right at the bicep attachment in both arms. I was about ready to quit climbing at this point, but calmed down on the drive home in the realisation that I just need some time off.

I then spent all week reading as much as I could about periodised training plans and such to form an actual plan rather than just going as hard as possible as often as possible...

Su - so this is what it feels like to be rested? Ease back into hangboarding and climbing on the board with a nice session doing lots of flash level stuff.

[gollum]

W/C 8/3/21

M - Abs, pulls, max hangs, yoga and stretching
T - Compression and TRX, abs, density hangs, yoga and stretching
W - Yoga and stretching, legs and arms, abs, small holds and pinches
T - Abs/core, pull-ups and shoulders, yoga and stretching
F - Abs, density hangs, compression, yoga and stretching
S - Abs, yoga and stretching
S - Abs, yoga and stretching


Just keep on keeping on. Waiting to get back outside on those “take the grade” problems where I can delude myself.

M - Start off with 5 minute plank, 3 sets of levers, 3x1 minute hollow bodies, 60 roll outs.
3x3 pull ups for speed, 3x90° lock offs, some shoulder and scapular work.
Max pulls with block and Tindeq, trying to make better use of it.10x 10 second pulls.
Stretching and yoga for hamstrings followed by some upper body stretching.

T - Start with floor compression isometric holds for 3x30 seconds, move on to prone Is, Ys and the Ts each for 3x3 with long holds, adding difficulty with each exercise. Press ups for 3x8 but in a wide position and taking 10 seconds per rep and no pausing, much tougher.
Move on to abs; 10x1 minute plank, floor routine and 100 rollouts.
Density hangs, again aiming for 6x45 seconds, got 4 sets but failed at 40 on last 2.
Stretching for box splits and pancake, both of which I’m really enjoying at the moment, despite being rubbish. Finish with yoga for hips.

W - For a change start with yoga for shoulders and some upper body stretching.
Weights focusing on biceps, triceps, wrists and legs.
For abs, basic 5 minute plank and 50 abs roll outs, which feel harder than normal going straight in from the plank, as normally do something else in between.
Small edges work on 6mm edges. Target is 6x10 seconds, manage 8 seconds on first two sets, but from 3rd onwards manage the full 10, so feel steady Bolger to do an additional two sets at the end and count first two as part of warm up. Also try +16k for 5 seconds but fail after about 2. Finish pulling a poor front lever, 3 partial rep pull ups and one very tentative better rep. Lots of fun.
A session on the pinches later, which goes pretty well, hitting all my shoulders previous benchmarks.

T - Start with 3x3 minute planks, 5 sets of front levers, 3 sets of German hangs and 3 sets of windscreen wipers. Finish with 50 rollouts.
Weighted pull-ups for 5x5. Weighted lock offs for 3x30s. Scapular and shoulder work.
Yoga for back, stretching for splits.
Max pulls with Tindeq and have sussed the best way to set it up, using the Endurance thingy. 10x10 second pulls. Pleased with consistency. Play with some other stuff on monos, just to see how things are going.

F - 5 minute plank, floor routine, 60 paused rollouts.
On to density hangs; 6 sets, again aiming at 45 seconds but after first three starts to drop off, but do manage over 30 on every set.
Compression isometric holds for 3x30 seconds. Prone TRX Ts, Ys and Is each for 3x10. Press-ups for 3x20. Some exercises working wrist flexors and extensors.
Yoga for feet, hands and twists. Stretching for upper body and pancake.

S - 25 hard roll outs, stretching for splits, yoga for climbers. Play with parallettes.

S - 50 easy roll outs, upper body stretching, yoga for core. Jab in afternoon and feel fine, so far.

Another week closer.

[duncan]

M - Brief rehab. fingerboard session: 40kg per arm for 3s on 15mm edge. 10km walk
T - As Monday with better scenery and company.
W - Brief rehab. fingerboard. Squats with 27.5kg ‘awkward’ weight.
T - Ran 3.5km. Fairlop, windy but not too cold. Felt good and stuck to the polished concrete. ~20 problems up to 5+, a bit like half a blue circuit. Elbow, shoulder and mind felt better for this.
F - Squats. Walked 13km.
S - 7km walk. Shoulder strength: handstands, side planks, overhead press with an ‘awkward’ weight.
S - Brief rehab. fingerboard session: bodyweight for 7-10s  on 20mm edge. 10km walk.

Ticking over, like gollum waiting for the day when I can travel to real rock.

[tommytwotone]

Goal - do a new (to me / my ticklist) Font 7a

Very thin week...

M: Marked kids' first day back at school / nursery by taking the day off work. Was pretty psyched for the Shipley Glen "alternative circuit" from the guidebook but forecast didn't look too great.

Got there to find it had rained pretty recently, but there was a good breeze and things were drying well. Took half an hour to scout around and find the stuff at the north end, then went back to car for pad and made a start. Got as far as about 4 or 5 problems in before the on and off drizzle got too much.

Rest of week: nada thanks to work and awful weather.

[spidermonkey09]

M - rested. Skin was still knackered.

T - max hangs. Absolutely dire. Gave up three hangs in as just felt knackered. Did stability hangs and a load of press ups and pullups instead.

W - core and stretching.

T - repeaters. +7.5kg base weight. Managed a full set of andersons on a 20mm and bottom outside edge. Some one arm stuff at the end.

F -  rest.

S - Anston. Wasn't convinced it would be dry but at least it would get me out the house. Arrived to find it bone dry despite squally showers and deserted- winner! Spent a long time getting warm on The Undercut which felt hard for 6B. Moved over to Beretta and did it easily first go from the start after sorting the sections again. This was satisfying after inexplicably dropping it on the up section  a few weeks ago. Flashed Beta Blocker which I thought was closer to 6C than 7A and should have flashed Fine Art but somehow messed up a move at the start. Bonjoy and his son arrived  although I didn't clock it was him at the time! Had a few goes at the Fine Beta link, did all the moves but started to power out so decided to try something else. After a long rest I managed the Beretta Extension which felt obscenely pumpy on the final section despite being entirely jugs. Good session and Fine Beta is probably worth some more effort.

S - Went to Sprotbrough which I had never been to before and was pleasantly surprised. High and Dry is probably the best problem there; positive pulling at a spicy height. Flashed Mos Undercut which I was really pleased with after watching Guy dispatch it with perfect beta. Also somehow scraped up Down and Out from an alternate start which is probably 7B+ish, really cool top section where I was lucky to stay on. Good session; Mo's my best flash yet whatever grade it is so very pleased with that.

Feel like I got lucky this weekend dodging the weather. Pretty average week of training. Looking forward to the walls opening in a few weeks which might at least inject some variety into the relentless fingerboarding.

[User deactivated.]

Jim, Sprotbrough sounds like it's worth a visit then? I grew up nearby, only 5-10 minutes away, although I didn't know climbing was an activity that people did at that point, certainly not in Doncaster where there's a distinct lack of mountains. My mum and dad live fairly close, so if I can ever see them again I could make it part of a visit.

Regarding your Tuesday entry, I would probably have done the same thing (well i'm trying to be more sensible now) but being knackered then going into pullups and pressups anyway is likely just putting you further into the recovery hole with little training benefit. I'm sure you're already aware but it's easy to forget (see my shambles of a performance on monday).

[SA Chris]

M - 5 k run to look for at a newly developed boulder. Ankle sore again
T -board session - tired doing the Crimpd Strength Intervals routine. Felt Ok, need to tweak difficulty.
W - bicep curls, triceps.
T - bike blast at lunch, as ankle needs a rest.
F - nothing I think
S - family bike ride, 12 km. Back to Clash, for rematch with Golden Brown Sit. Board warm up before leaving home, did right arete problem, then traverse round to right and the stand on GB to remind myself the top isn't too bad. Tried SS first go it felt bonkers hard, but reminded myself of the microbeta and got through second try, and topped it out. First official 7A in ages (Two Peaches I did in January seems to be borderline 6C+/7A). Had a go on Yukon Afternoon which I flashed in Spring, but got totally shut down. Then it hailed and we went home.
S - Family Walk.

[spidermonkey09]

Jim, Sprotbrough sounds like it's worth a visit then? I grew up nearby, only 5-10 minutes away, although I didn't know climbing was an activity that people did at that point, certainly not in Doncaster where there's a distinct lack of mountains. My mum and dad live fairly close, so if I can ever see them again I could make it part of a visit.

Regarding your Tuesday entry, I would probably have done the same thing (well i'm trying to be more sensible now) but being knackered then going into pullups and pressups anyway is likely just putting you further into the recovery hole with little training benefit. I'm sure you're already aware but it's easy to forget (see my shambles of a performance on monday).

Yeah its a good venue. Worth taking a fair few pads as its high. Check the top outs as well (theres an easy way round on the right) and a useful tree to ab down and clean any holds. High and Dry is really good although a spot would be good. Shelf Life and Mo's would be ok by yourself I think.

Yeah I sort of knew it wasn't a good idea but after a long day at work I just needed to do some physical activity I think! Think I just about got away with it. Just saw your entry properly - 9 splits?! 

[Nibile]

Power Club
Mon - ab wheel x20, push ups x10, snatch pulls x10 x5. 6' overhead and rack carry. Very tired.
Tue  - rest.
Wed - snatch grip DL 5x5 90 90 92 90 90. Lattice edge 10 hangs from -4 to +4. Steady. Snatch pulls 5×5 60 kg. Narrow pull and snatch 5x3 40 kg. Great session, that showed again that time availability is crucial.
Thu - PE low 30/30 x15!!! And with margin, probably another 2 reps.
Fri - PE low new session! 30/15 x6. Rest 7/8 mins. 1/1 x3. Completed but exploded. Very happy. Pull ups x5, overhead carry 1' 40 kg EMOM 3x2. Brilliant.
Sat - rest.
Sun - one arm dumbbell snatch x6 + 1' overhead walk, x5 x arm. One arm high pulls. More weights.

[shark]

but being knackered then going into pullups and pressups anyway is likely just putting you further into the recovery hole with little training benefit.

 

Always on my mind. If I’m below par doing strength and especially power work I’ll just stop

[JohnM]

M - Trail run 12.38km 534m

T - Trail run + hill sets x 3 16.06km 1023m. Shoulder stability and mobility + hamstring exercises.

W - Shoulder stability and mobility + hamstring exercises.

T - Trail run 13.28km 526m. Pockets and slopers, weighted hangs on BM lower outside edges + 20kg. A poor session. The board felt very slick and the only way I could maintain the weighted hangs in the half crimp position was with the thumb against the index. Shoulder stability + hamstring exercises.

F - Trail run 14.99km 616m.

S - Schleierwasserfall. Mercy Street (8c) session 2 of 2021. First go was rubbish and I could barely hang some of the holds. Either I am just not warmed up enough or the grey dusty limestone is holding some moisture early in the day. Second go was much better but I didn't manage my two target links. (1) Climbing though the middle bulge whilst also clipping part way though the sequence - a hold on my usual sequence was wet. I got close after clipping on my alternative sequence but my index finger got wet and I didn't do the final move. (2) Climbing the full upper boulder from the juggy hueco. I felt much stronger on most of this but by the time I got to the sloper my finger was bleeding and I couldn't make the drop in move to the undercut. Go three was good on the lower crimpy wall but I had to give up at the middle bulge as any hold bigger than first joint was tearing my fingers apart. That is the main problem with working the route at the moment in that it is taking chunks out of my fingers! Warmed down on a scary and polished 6c.

S - AM: Alpine skiing at Bergeralm. Nice session despite cold and windy weather and my turns got a bit better. PM: Trail run 10.36km 305m.

I laid off the climbing training this week as the rotator cuff on my right arm was showing warning signs.It felt much better by the end of the week though. Running was much better and I finally put in a 65km 3000m week after failing to reach that target for a few weeks. I also finally put more effort into hamstring exercises to prevent my knee problem occurring whilst running. These seemed to have an immediate impact in that I didn't get any knee pain this week but the instability was still there when transitioning from running steeply up hill to flat or downhill. It still takes a few 100 metres of running until I stop limping. More progress on the 8c but not as fast as I like and I am still not making long flowing links on the route. The route is destroying my skin and also powering me out pretty quickly. I also feel pretty broken the day after and it seems to be back to the bad old days of 2016 and my initial forays into the grade with my body throwing up all sort of complaints, particularly in the shoulders. My left deltoid has a kind of bruised feeling today two days after. Over the next few weeks it is time to adapt or break!
 
 

[Duncan Disorderly]

M: Board session - medium intensity. Set some new problems... Lacked structure..
T: Routes @ Horseshit - Low 6 milage session, did a lot I'd not done before, nice to be out...
W: Shoulder stability and fingerboard - went to town on the physio as a warmup then did a bunch of max hangs and finished off with foot on AeroCap until I felt sick... Nice!
T: Shoulder stability and elbow eccentrics...
F: Nowt
S: Board - Power session... Set a new system problem, 2 move, ultra shit feet, did it both hands 4 times each - could be harder but gonna incorporate it into a longer AnCap circuit problem this week so I can work on explosiveness when boxed... Shoulder stability stuff.
S: Hungover 

Shit weather and low psyche but pushed on through... Need to get a bit more structured with the board... Did well with the physio tho and all tweaks are feeling managble - great! Decided to try and tick all the starred routes @ horseshit over the summer as a goal, seems perfectly managble on paper  and unless the Mrs starts climbing in the 7's soon I reckon I'll be spending a fair bit of time there...

[shark]

“ tock all the starred routes @ horseshit over the summer”

Cant be many of those

[Will Hunt]

Decided to try and tick all the starred routes @ horseshit over the summer

[Duncan Disorderly]

“ tock all the starred routes @ horseshit over the summer”

Cant be many of those

I was actually quite surprised at how many... Mostly one star (and even those may be dubious) 

[Duncan Disorderly]

Decided to try and tick all the starred routes @ horseshit over the summer

Good question... Probably because if I'm gonna be going there anyways I might as well have a goal in mind... Otherwise I'll just end up ticking a slew of no starred routes due to their proximity of the ones that I'm leading so my GF and/or kids can TR them (or lead eventually)... There's actually a few I've done recently that are pretty good tbh (keep seeing Ron there so it can't all be shit - can it??  ) 

[cheque]

Whose definition of starred routes are you using Duncan? I had a look yesterday and there are roughly twice as many on UKC as there are in the BMC book. Are you doing the trad routes too?!

Here’s a good Horseshoe ticklist for you.