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Black Tufa - Anston (Read 1696 times)

rsp123

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Black Tufa - Anston
March 13, 2021, 07:35:20 pm
Does anyone have any beta or videos for this? Really can't work out the start at all.

submaximal gains

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#1 Re: Black Tufa - Anston
March 13, 2021, 07:40:44 pm
See the previous thread https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,23955.msg442406.

I've looked at it and been baffled. The only video seems to be this, in which it is done incorrectly as the plinth is definitely out https://youtu.be/uarjFzatPmo?t=75

r-man

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#2 Re: Black Tufa - Anston
March 13, 2021, 08:31:23 pm
I don't know this problem, but Dolph told me...put the pad on the ledge/plinth. Sit with the left foot on the back wall, right on an edge up and right. Pull up, drop a knee and dyno to the jug.

Bradders

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#3 Re: Black Tufa - Anston
March 13, 2021, 08:43:27 pm
I fall off the end of the link into Dark Art in this vid:

https://www.instagram.com/p/BUDBBIiBGmX/?igshid=1aefvmrmeyeng

Different angle:

https://www.instagram.com/p/BR1WAZCBzMO/?igshid=rmefmfp0tyb2

r-man is right, pad on the plinth, sit on it, take the black tufa pinch hold as an undercut with your right hand, left on some nothingness a little higher. Left toe on the start hold of Dark Art, right smearing down on some choss. Pull on, pull up and slap. Imagine it'll be a big old move if you're short!

Wood FT

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#4 Re: Black Tufa - Anston
March 13, 2021, 08:49:49 pm
A mate did the link out of it last night and used the tufa for the left hand and a slopey crimp (reservation foothold) for the right hand. left foot low and a big old slap to cut-loose. Absolutely desperate if you’re short. it looks like a bus ride away getting out to the lip when you’re sat down. I’ll try Bradders beta next time

abarro81

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#5 Re: Black Tufa - Anston
March 13, 2021, 10:31:58 pm
I do it as Guy says - big jump over with rh. Feels very hard after a season of fingerboard and very easy after a season of flicky board climbing!

rsp123

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#6 Re: Black Tufa - Anston
March 14, 2021, 11:47:32 am
Thanks for the replies. I will try those methods next time

 

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