[Pantontino]

Here we go again, fast forwarding from the 2nd edition in 2017, via a strange but ultimately very creative 2020, screeching to a halt at the start of the spring 2021. A new Ground Up book is here, the first volume of the hotly anticipated 3rd edition of North Wales Bouldering guide. (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=937)

 

Mountain Crags – Coastal Crags split
The rapid pace of development in recent years has meant a corresponding increase in the guidebook page count. There is now too much material to fit it all in one book, so a split into separate volumes has become necessary (as predicted by Dave Parry in his review of the 2nd edition: https://www.theprojectmagazine.com/features/2017/8/25/north-wales-bouldering-guide-review). The most logical split is between the inland mountain crags of Eryri and the coastal crags of Pen Llŷn, Ynys Môn and Llandudno (plus the North East limestone crags). “Go to the mountains when you can, and the coast when you can’t.”

This book is:

North Wales Bouldering Volume 1: Mountain Crags.

North Wales Bouldering Volume 2: Coastal Crags and North East Limestone will be published later in 2021. I’m busy working on it at the moment (Or put another way: trying my best to keep up with Pete Robins’ increasingly prolific output. Last year he climbed 200 FAs up to 8A and he is on a similar hit rate this year too! http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=934)

Improvements, additions, updates
Brilliant new areas, such as Llyn Ogwen, Cwm Craig-las and Castell Cidwm have been added to the roster. Existing areas, such as Creigiau’r Garth, Cwm Dulyn, Fachwen and Clegir have seen extensive new development. Hundreds of new lines have been discovered, often in the least likely of places.

There has been much improvement to existing descriptions, approach notes, topos and maps. The addition of a Crag Assessment Table makes choosing your crag for the day much easier. Grades and star ratings have been tweaked, broken holds and changes noted. There’s an epic graded list (sorted into order of difficulty by means both scientific and voodoo), a full index (at an easy-to-read size) and the Dirty Dozen style lists for extra inspiration. This is certainly a better, easier to use and more intensely researched guidebook than the previous NWB ones.

There is also a new wave of inspiring action shots fleshing out the pages, plus the usual high quality design you can expect from Ground Up and Al Williams.

I’m the main author and editor of the book, but crucial support has come from key activists, such as Pete Robins, Martin Crook, George Smith, Owen Hayward, Chris Doyle, James McHaffie, Tim Peck, Craig Davies, Andy Godber, Mark Katz, Max Dickens, David Fidler, Luke Fletcher, Gwion Llewelyn, Charlie Panton, Matt Perrier, Dave Noden, Jack Rattenbury, Rich Hession, Mark Dicken, plus the absolute gentleman, Matthew Thompson, otherwise known as Fiend who has added valuable input from a seasoned visitor’s perspective.

The guide is a whopping 704 pages and has just over 3000 problems running up to 8B. It has been split into 5 distinct areas: 1. Dyffryn Peris and 2. Dyffryn Ogwen. The previously named Outlying Crags area has been segmented into 3. Eastern Crags, 4. Southern Crags and 5. Western Crags.

The northwalesbouldering.com news site has been running since 2004, although in 2020, during the intensive guide production period, it was put on the back burner for a while. Normal service has resumed now. The flow of new lines continues and the aim is to document all significant lines as they happen. Please send in first ascent info, pics and film links. Usual rules apply: 7A and above, keep eliminates to a minimum and make sure you’ve got some clear, unedited footage if you are making any big number claims. (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/index.asp)

Anyway, I hope you like the guide, and I hope it inspires many fruitful trips to North Wales. Copies can be obtained from all good climbing shops. For example, V12 in Llanberis will always have a good stock of it. (https://www.v12outdoor.com/north-wales-bouldering-3rd-edition-volume-1.html)

PS. Chris Doyle has produced a brilliant Mountain Crags first ascent film to run alongside the new guide. Make sure you check it out – it’s great, for all sorts of reasons, not least of which is how it captures the nature of the first ascent game. It'll be up on youtube tomorrow.

It Never Ends. 

[mr chaz]

It’s awesome  got mine last week! Top effort everyone involved, can’t wait to get out and use it

[Fiend]

  is all that needs to be said.

[steveri]

Good effort! Only seems like 20 minutes since the last one, clearly lots to go at. Will Hope Mountain sneak into the Vol2?

[Pantontino]

Good effort! Only seems like 20 minutes since the last one, clearly lots to go at. Will Hope Mountain sneak into the Vol2?

It's certainly a cool crag but because of the fragile rock I was asked to leave it out of the 2nd edition. It does get full coverage on UKC so maybe the cat is already out of the bag?

[Pantontino]

I forgot to mention a few people who made valuable contributions to the guide: Jon Ratcliffe, Alex Mason, Andy Moles, Tim Blake, Jack Palmieri, Dan Leech, Zed Jones, James Taylor, Ferdia Earle, Calum Muskett, Paul Houghoughi, Dan McManus, Dave Barrans, Mike Hart, Ben Whalley,...there's probably more. So many people helped out.

[steveri]

Good effort! Only seems like 20 minutes since the last one, clearly lots to go at. Will Hope Mountain sneak into the Vol2?

It's certainly a cool crag but because of the fragile rock I was asked to leave it out of the 2nd edition. It does get full coverage on UKC so maybe the cat is already out of the bag?

Fair point, probably a good shout. Question withdrawn your honour!

[Pantontino]

Chris' film is up on youtube now:

[andy popp]

Magic.

[SA Chris]

the absolute gentleman, Matthew Thompson, otherwise known as Fiend

That's your rep ruined.

[Pantontino]

the absolute gentleman, Matthew Thompson, otherwise known as Fiend

That's your rep ruined.

I stand by my description. Fiend may have the sartorial elegance of an eastern bloc weight lifter but he is definitely a gentleman.

[Coops_13]

Is there any way of purchasing this internationally or should I just order and have it sent to my Mum (as I did with the Lakes book)? 

Keen to get my hands on it as I'm told I make an appearance!

[Pantontino]

Is there any way of purchasing this internationally or should I just order and have it sent to my Mum (as I did with the Lakes book)? 

Keen to get my hands on it as I'm told I make an appearance!

You do make an appearance, it's a photo from that day in 2017 when I met you randomly at Nant y Fedw.

I'll find out about the international delivery but suspect it would be costly.

[Coops_13]

Is there any way of purchasing this internationally or should I just order and have it sent to my Mum (as I did with the Lakes book)? 

Keen to get my hands on it as I'm told I make an appearance!

You do make an appearance, it's a photo from that day in 2017 when I met you randomly at Nant y Fedw.

I'll find out about the international delivery but suspect it would be costly.

Ah yes, good day that! OK, I can easily order it to someone in the UK so no worries

[36chambers]

Is there any way of purchasing this internationally or should I just order and have it sent to my Mum (as I did with the Lakes book)? 

Keen to get my hands on it as I'm told I make an appearance!

You do make an appearance, it's a photo from that day in 2017 when I met you randomly at Nant y Fedw.

I'll find out about the international delivery but suspect it would be costly.

Ah yes, good day that! OK, I can easily order it to someone in the UK so no worries

you can order it to me if you like

same for any other climbing related items you fancy purchasing

[Pantontino]

I wrote a review of the film - perhaps a bit weird given that I'm in it.  Anyway, I just think Doylo deserves credit for his film making skills, plus it's another chance to plug 3 Hwr Doeth, the brilliant hip hop band from Caernarfon who have two tracks on the film.

Review: http://northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=941

Anatomy by 3 Hwr Doeth:

[Davo]

Just watched half of the film and it’s brilliant! Got me really psyched for bouldering in North Wales!

[JohnM]

Just watched half of the film and it’s brilliant! Got me really psyched for bouldering in North Wales!

Me too! Then I remembered I lived there for 5 years and remembered how bad the weather is!

[Pantontino]

Just watched half of the film and it’s brilliant! Got me really psyched for bouldering in North Wales!

Me too! Then I remembered I lived there for 5 years and remembered how bad the weather is!

I refer the honorable gentleman to the NWB mantra: “Go to the mountains when you can, and the coast when you can’t.”

I would also point out that last year we had an incredible run of good weather - it basically didn't rain from March to July. That sort of weather pattern is pretty typical in recent years.

[Pantontino]

Just watched half of the film and it’s brilliant! Got me really psyched for bouldering in North Wales!

Wait til you see the Cwm Craig-las boulder at the end. And realise that until the summer of 2020 it was untouched!

[JohnM]

Just watched half of the film and it’s brilliant! Got me really psyched for bouldering in North Wales!

Wait til you see the Cwm Craig-las boulder at the end. And realise that until the summer of 2020 it was untouched!

There is a certain magic about North Wales with how hidden gems can suddenly be unearthed. It makes you wonder what is out there or how close people are to reaching the end of the supply! I used to love the exploration aspect even though you would be often left disappointed standing next to a waist high boulder with wet trousers in a bog after an hour of hiking! 

[Pantontino]

Just watched half of the film and it’s brilliant! Got me really psyched for bouldering in North Wales!

Wait til you see the Cwm Craig-las boulder at the end. And realise that until the summer of 2020 it was untouched!

There is a certain magic about North Wales with how hidden gems can suddenly be unearthed. It makes you wonder what is out there or how close people are to reaching the end of the supply! I used to love the exploration aspect even though you would be often left disappointed standing next to a waist high boulder with wet trousers in a bog after an hour of hiking!

The next wave of development is ongoing at a variety of crags which are currently secret. It's mad how high quality new stuff keeps being found. Who knows how long this will go on but at the moment there is certainly no let up.

As you say though, with most exploration trips you end up empty handed and soaking wet. But then there's that one time when you turn a corner and see the future!

[Fiend]

....standing next to a waist high boulder with wet trousers in a bog after an hour of hiking!

Now now, Hosey did find some good stuff in the end 

[Hoseyb]

....standing next to a waist high boulder with wet trousers in a bog after an hour of hiking!

Now now, Hosey did find some good stuff in the end 

Cheeky. I always thought the suffering was important, it'd be boring if it just dropped in your lap. As Si says, still secret stuff out there.. I'm very glad to reach the heady heights of two stars (and that some of my obscurities seem to be drifting into fashion).


Of course I dream of three stars..

[User deactivated]

....standing next to a waist high boulder with wet trousers in a bog after an hour of hiking!

Now now, Hosey did find some good stuff in the end 

Cheeky. I always thought the suffering was important, it'd be boring if it just dropped in your lap. As Si says, still secret stuff out there.. I'm very glad to reach the heady heights of two stars (and that some of my obscurities seem to be drifting into fashion).


Of course I dream of three stars..

Sitter to Skadoosh is 3 stars all day imo. Keep em coming!