[tomtom]

No chance of a drop knee (or a heel) on my board...

They were almost beautifully packed - with a strip of masking tape covering the holes on the back - and then stuck where the tape was with double sided to a cardboard sheet (I’d have bunged them in a box) and a nice handwritten note came with them thanking me for buying them and hoping I enjoyed using them.

14 in total for £65. Each one different. Nice attention to detail.

Not sure they’d exist comfortably on your board with those pockets!! 😱😁

[Bradders]

I don’t think this is a joke, climbing holds shaped and colours like various cheeses

https://www.instagram.com/p/CImdMHlDHqU/

Dear me, that's all a bit "climbing goes mainstream weirdness"!

[duncan]

I don’t think this is a joke, climbing holds shaped and colours like various cheeses

https://www.instagram.com/p/CImdMHlDHqU/

Wearing your parmigiano T shirt

[cofe]

No chance of a drop knee (or a heel) on my board...

They were almost beautifully packed - with a strip of masking tape covering the holes on the back - and then stuck where the tape was with double sided to a cardboard sheet (I’d have bunged them in a box) and a nice handwritten note came with them thanking me for buying them and hoping I enjoyed using them.

14 in total for £65. Each one different. Nice attention to detail.

Not sure they’d exist comfortably on your board with those pockets!! 😱😁

How positive are they Tom? Look to have ok incut on the pics.

[Paul B]

Whoever was after Malc Smith's Rockmaster (?), it appears he (or someone using his name and presumed location) is making holds and selling via Etsy: https://www.etsy.com/uk/shop/malcsmithclimbing
Not the OG holds, but maybe you can convince him to remake them!

I bought a set of the black resin pinches Malc had on this etsy site.

They’re lovely!

Twas me and I've messaged him but I've not had a response.

[tomtom]

No chance of a drop knee (or a heel) on my board...

They were almost beautifully packed - with a strip of masking tape covering the holes on the back - and then stuck where the tape was with double sided to a cardboard sheet (I’d have bunged them in a box) and a nice handwritten note came with them thanking me for buying them and hoping I enjoyed using them.

14 in total for £65. Each one different. Nice attention to detail.

Not sure they’d exist comfortably on your board with those pockets!! 😱😁

How positive are they Tom? Look to have ok incut on the pics.

A mix. Before setting I split them into three groups. Incut, positive and neutral (as in a straight pinch). 4 or 5 incut, 8 positive and 2 neutral.

Really interesting shapes. Nothing revolutionary - but they feel very comfy and non tweaky - despite being hard (some of them).

Not used to plastic though - took a few good chalk brushing to get rid of the slight oily / slickness you get with new ones.

Btw - for decent sized plastic holds, £4.50-5 per hold is a bargain....

[cofe]

Nice one, ta.

[remus]

I picked up a set of Malc's pinches based on TTs recommendation and would second what he's said. Nice comfy holds, good texture out of the box that doesn't wreck your skin. Fairly good on a 45 so work well for powerful problems with long reaches, if you've got a small board with limited options for wide moves they'd probably feel a bit easy.

I got a few that have a bronze finish too. I think they're the same shapes as the black ones so doesn't add anything other than looking pretty mint.

[MischaHY]

Since I got the board up I've had a chance to use the Wataaah Dojo set a fair bit and must say I'm really impressed. Compared to some other resin holds that I've had to take sandpaper too, these have been kind on the skin and are really nice in terms of ergonomics. Anyone looking for some small edges should check out the Dojo 1 - I've got them on the 45 and the 30. The pockets (Dojo 6) are really nice as well.

https://wataaah.de/en/dojo/

[Helge]

Since I got the board up I've had a chance to use the Wataaah Dojo set a fair bit and must say I'm really impressed. Compared to some other resin holds that I've had to take sandpaper too, these have been kind on the skin and are really nice in terms of ergonomics. Anyone looking for some small edges should check out the Dojo 1 - I've got them on the 45 and the 30. The pockets (Dojo 6) are really nice as well.

https://wataaah.de/en/dojo/

Are the pockets good enough for a 45?

I recently ordered some of the smaller positive crimps from Flathold (bolt-on, electric flavor series). They are quite nice and were reasonably priced, one set was about £12, another £16 for five holds each.

https://www.flathold.com/

[User deactivated.]

Foothold recommendations please!

Specifically I'm looking for 2 sets of footholds for a 45, one positive and one slopey.

I'm better at toeing in on positive holds so I envisage setting problems on the positives and then working towards doing them on the slopey ones, which should ideally feel a couple of grades harder.

[Nutty]

Core Geo screw-ons for something positive (though they can be installed flat side up) - https://coreclimbing.co.uk/buy-holds/shop-by-type/footholds/footholds-geo-screw-on-20mm-feet/

[Duma]

I'd just get two sets of those in different colours, and put them opposite ways up. 10mm might be pretty small on a 45, obvs depends what grade you climb though.

[Bradders]

Core Geo screw-ons for something positive (though they can be installed flat side up) - https://coreclimbing.co.uk/buy-holds/shop-by-type/footholds/footholds-geo-screw-on-20mm-feet/

I have the 20mm versions on my 45' board, flat side up. They don't qualify as slopey in my opinion. Never tried them positive side up tbh.

I also have the Core "Board" feet which are a sort of slopey version of the 10mms. They're very hard to use, I'm actually considering replacing them with the standard 10mms tbh, or something larger but slopier.

[webbo]

I have moon footholds, the bolt on ones. They are15mm and they can be used four ways from positive to very slopey with 2 less slopey sides. I use the positive side on my board as I’ve got some 5mm ish screw on’s as well. I can’t remember what make they are but I’m fairly sure someone on here recommended them.

[User deactivated.]

Currently I have a set of metolius greatest chips (all that I could get in go outdoors, march 2020 lockdown eve). They are all odd shapes which I thought was a good idea at first due to the variation, but I tend to always aim for the footholds I can use well and avoid the ones I can't. This is why I want two uniform sets.

To answer the grade question i'm board training as an 8A aspirant, but right now I'm climbing a grade or 2 lower than that.

Bradders, I think the good 20mm edges are probably a good idea for the easier set to enable use of some terrible handholds. How many grades harder do the other set tend to be in comparison?

Anyone tried domes for feet? I've heard plenty of horror stories about how hard they are, which could be ideal for a more dynamic style on bigger holds, but I worry that problems set on 20mm footholds wouldn't translate / wouldn't be possible (or more than a few grades difference at least!)

[remus]

If you want some hard footholds then I think domes are a decent option, but I do find they lead to a move-cut-place feet style of problem which can get a bit tedious. They do have the advantage of being cheap if you buy them somewhere like this https://www.wooden-blocks.co.uk/half-wooden-balls?p=2

Depending on how DIY you're feeling it'd be pretty easy to get some of the larger domes and add a flat edge on top for an easier foothold where you can avoid cutting more easily.

[Bradders]

Bradders, I think the good 20mm edges are probably a good idea for the easier set to enable use of some terrible handholds. How many grades harder do the other set tend to be in comparison?

Erm, hard to say as it does vary but quite a few. I've had problems go from warm ups to impossible...

Currently I have a set of metolius greatest chips (all that I could get in go outdoors, march 2020 lockdown eve). They are all odd shapes which I thought was a good idea at first due to the variation, but I tend to always aim for the footholds I can use well and avoid the ones I can't. This is why I want two uniform sets.

That's interesting, having always had uniform feet I've often wondered whether it would be better to have more variable ones. Sounds like that's a no!

[Steve R]

Depending on how DIY you're feeling it'd be pretty easy to get some of the larger domes and add a flat edge on top for an easier foothold where you can avoid cutting more easily.

Apologies for sounding like a bit of a grandma but would urge anyone taking a chop saw to domes to exercise plenty of caution. They're typically quite a hard and brittle wood which you're then cutting into on a curved surface and they also don't sit against the fence well, again due to circular base and curved shape. Large blade, small bit of wood.. plenty of scope for blade snagging/grabbing, dome rotating/ moving during cut. Worth finding a system which allows fingers to be well clear basically. Grandma out.

[remus]

Depending on how DIY you're feeling it'd be pretty easy to get some of the larger domes and add a flat edge on top for an easier foothold where you can avoid cutting more easily.

Apologies for sounding like a bit of a grandma but would urge anyone taking a chop saw to domes to exercise plenty of caution. They're typically quite a hard and brittle wood which you're then cutting into on a curved surface and they also don't sit against the fence well, again due to circular base and curved shape. Large blade, small bit of wood.. plenty of scope for blade snagging/grabbing, dome rotating/ moving during cut. Worth finding a system which allows fingers to be well clear basically. Grandma out.

Word, I was thinking more along the lines of sanding a flat face of them.

[sdm]

Depending on how DIY you're feeling it'd be pretty easy to get some of the larger domes and add a flat edge on top for an easier foothold where you can avoid cutting more easily.

Apologies for sounding like a bit of a grandma but would urge anyone taking a chop saw to domes to exercise plenty of caution. They're typically quite a hard and brittle wood which you're then cutting into on a curved surface and they also don't sit against the fence well, again due to circular base and curved shape. Large blade, small bit of wood.. plenty of scope for blade snagging/grabbing, dome rotating/ moving during cut. Worth finding a system which allows fingers to be well clear basically. Grandma out.

Agreed. I went for the cheapskate domes version and drilled holes in them all myself. I didn't have a clamp that could hold them in place effectively so slippage of the domes/drill was a pain.

I didn't like being limited to the move-cut-place style so I cut/sanded the domes so I could use worse hand holds.

For cutting/sanding, I used someone's workshop and tools. I could clamp them safely and could cut about 6 at a time to an identical angle. Then I could roughly sand about 6 at a time before doing some finer sanding 1 at a time.

Unless you have access to decent tools, or money is extremely tight, I would just buy them ready cut. Too much time and effort for the amount of money saved.

[cofe]

I've got some Core 10mm positive side up on a 45 and they're good, but small. I also made some flat 20mm wooden holds which while bigger have less grip and so require force throughout moves so you don't (or avoid) cut loose. The Core feel a bit harder than the wooden ones, but I do have a few random problems which are weirdly easier with the Core ones. I avoided anything like domes as I worry about feet pinging and injury and I figure if you can cut on every move then the handholds are too good. Or something like that. I'm trying to keep my feet on, basically. Also got Core Angles on the kickboard so that it's not too easy from the deck.

[mark20]

The problem I find with the little core footholds is that they feel good when toeing down in a new stiff pair of shoes, but really bad in an old rounded pair which don't really get any contact on the back of the edge. I don't want to be cracking out new pairs of Whites for board projects!
Wooden domes from ebay are pretty good, but like sdm says, you end up with alot of cut loose problems as it's hard to get stretched out without feet firing off them
In the recent video of Ned he has some big, flat surfaced, but slightly downward sloping plastic footholds (ie look about vertical when mounted on a 45 board) which look perfect - not dependent on a new pair of shoes, but require loads of force to keep feet on. Anyone know where to get them?

[Bradders]

In the recent video of Ned he has some big, flat surfaced, but slightly downward sloping plastic footholds (ie look about vertical when mounted on a 45 board) which look perfect - not dependent on a new pair of shoes, but require loads of force to keep feet on. Anyone know where to get them?

They're wood, not plastic, and I'd be very surprised if he didn't make them himself.

[cofe]

Yeah, he made them himself. I think they've even got fine sandpaper stuck on to them.