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Hold tight, it's the holds thread (Read 42502 times)

mark20

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#125 Re: Hold tight, it's the holds thread
September 27, 2021, 03:44:24 pm
Ah OK hard to tell from the video. If I put my board back up I'd try and make something like those then, with a length of wood and mitre saw

Liamhutch89

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#126 Re: Hold tight, it's the holds thread
September 27, 2021, 03:50:28 pm
I'd definitely rather buy something ready made. Time is precious!

I'm still undecided. Another option i've seen are the crusher discs, but i'm not sure if it would be good or bad having footholds you can press straight into at any angle even when they are out to the side. Thoughts? Available in 10, 15 or 20mm depth.

https://crusherholds.co.uk/product/crusher-wood-footholds/

RobK

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#127 Re: Hold tight, it's the holds thread
September 27, 2021, 04:04:28 pm
I'd definitely rather buy something ready made. Time is precious!

I'm still undecided. Another option i've seen are the crusher discs, but i'm not sure if it would be good or bad having footholds you can press straight into at any angle even when they are out to the side. Thoughts? Available in 10, 15 or 20mm depth.

https://crusherholds.co.uk/product/crusher-wood-footholds/

I have these in the 15mm depth and then a set of 30mm core for endurance stuff on my 45. They're small, but not ludicrously small. You might want the 10mm version? I quite like that you can press into them from any angle, but almost certainly a personal preference thing.

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#128 Re: Hold tight, it's the holds thread
September 27, 2021, 04:08:41 pm
I have the 15mm crusher dinks on my 45, as well as the core geo 10mm (mounted positive up) and the core geo board (mounted flat side up, except the slopey ones which are upsidedown on the kicker) and some eBay domes. Domes are hardest by miles and I struggle to use them on anything above a warm-up. The crusher dinks and positive geos are probably similar difficulty - dinks larger and multi-directional but less positive, geos better to get your toe in. The board feet are two different thicknesses, the 11mm are easier than the 9mm but both are useable. The dinks are kinder on shoe rubber than the resin core feet.

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#129 Re: Hold tight, it's the holds thread
September 27, 2021, 05:26:36 pm
I'd definitely rather buy something ready made. Time is precious!

I'm still undecided. Another option i've seen are the crusher discs, but i'm not sure if it would be good or bad having footholds you can press straight into at any angle even when they are out to the side. Thoughts? Available in 10, 15 or 20mm depth.

https://crusherholds.co.uk/product/crusher-wood-footholds/

I've got some resin holds that are similar to this and I like them. Being resin they're pretty grippy so feel pretty good but I reckon wood versions would work well by making you use a bit more tension. Fairly cheap by the looks of it so you could buy a couple of sizes to experiment with.

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#130 Re: Hold tight, it's the holds thread
September 27, 2021, 06:10:12 pm
I've got a mix of core geo 20mm, crusher 10 mm dinks and domes. As others have said the cores are positive even slopey side up and get used the most. The crusher dinks are frustrating as very temperature dependent as to how well they work. Sometimes they are really positive and sometimes rubbish. On the positive days they are great! Beta blox do some dyed black ones that look pretty good. Would be interested to hear any feedback for these

Probes

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#131 Re: Hold tight, it's the holds thread
September 27, 2021, 07:26:21 pm
 :jab:  more options for consideration available...  https://crusherholds.co.uk/product/wooden-climbing-foot-blocks/

Bradders

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#132 Re: Hold tight, it's the holds thread
October 07, 2021, 02:36:26 pm
Off the back of this discussion I finally bit the bullet and replaced the Core board feet on my 45. Decided they were just a little bit too hard for me at that angle (occasional 7C+/8A boulderer).

Ended up going with these from Beta Blox at 12mm: https://www.betablox.co.uk/product/footholds

Had a couple of (short, sleep deprived) sessions so far and reckon they're about perfect, a definite step up from the 20mm Core feet flat side up, in terms of tension required, but better than the ones they replaced. Require less clawing in with your big toe and more of the sort of consistent tension and pressure that I'd associate with outdoor footholds.

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#133 Re: Hold tight, it's the holds thread
October 21, 2021, 12:41:41 pm

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#134 Re: Hold tight, it's the holds thread
October 21, 2021, 03:08:34 pm
Save yourself a fortune:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/323927205547

I've tried these as they've been suggested several times as an option. Got a bunch of the 50mm ones. At 45 degrees they were completely and utterly nails, impossible to do anything other than the juggiest warm ups for me.

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#135 Re: Hold tight, it's the holds thread
October 21, 2021, 03:34:18 pm
I initially bought some 40 mm diameter one's, and I too found them all but unusable on all but the easiest problems on a 40 degree board. However after cutting an edge off to give a 25mm wide, 12mm deep flattened top ( similar to the foot holds available from beastmaker et. al.) I found them to be excellent.

Subsequently I got a bag of 50mm diameter half domes which I have left unmodified. These have been fine as a harder set of footholds but, I suspect crucially, I gave them a thorough roughing up with some 60 grit sandpaper prior to fitting.

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#136 Re: Hold tight, it's the holds thread
October 21, 2021, 03:50:54 pm
Save yourself a fortune:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/323927205547

I got some very similar. Great on the 30degree board, but I couldn't imagine doing much on a steeper board.

Bought some 25mm ones too and they were so small they just split....

remus

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#137 Re: Hold tight, it's the holds thread
October 21, 2021, 04:41:30 pm
Save yourself a fortune:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/323927205547

I got some very similar. Great on the 30degree board, but I couldn't imagine doing much on a steeper board.

Bought some 25mm ones too and they were so small they just split....

For the smaller ones I had some luck pre-drilling them. Still managed to crack a few though not such an issue as they're so cheap.

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#138 Re: Hold tight, it's the holds thread
October 25, 2021, 08:15:21 am
Ive tried a few different sizes. The 40mm dia's are the best size IMHO.
Ive cut almost all of them in-half. Some at a positive angle to give a better jib as i was tending to slip off the square edge in the summer months.
I have a few as full domes, but as my handholds are all tiny on my 45, the domes can only really be used to push off.
At 32p each (with a couple of minutes work) they are the best value footholds.

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#139 Re: Hold tight, it's the holds thread
October 25, 2021, 09:33:03 am
I have moon footholds, the bolt on ones. They are15mm and they can be used four ways from positive to very slopey with 2 less slopey sides. I use the positive side on my board as I’ve got some 5mm ish screw on’s as well. I can’t remember what make they are but I’m fairly sure someone on here recommended them.
I finally remembered what make my small footholds are, it actually is written on some of them but I need a magnifying glass to read it.
https://www.holdz.co.uk/collections/foot-holds/products/footchips
They may have changed slightly as mine are dated 2014.

mr chaz

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#140 Re: Hold tight, it's the holds thread
January 06, 2022, 03:39:34 pm
Thought best to keep this in the original thread - Bradders, or anyone else for that matter, any thoughts on which wooden holds or wood types have faired better being out in your shed during cold damp winters?

Bradders

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#141 Re: Hold tight, it's the holds thread
January 06, 2022, 03:46:36 pm
Tulipwood and sapele seem to hold up best. Utile too.

I need to revise my review of Hardwood Holds from earlier, they are really good, such comfy shapes and they definitely don't condense as badly as others. Oak seems to be the absolute worst, which is a shame as otherwise it's a lovely wood type.

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#142 Re: Hold tight, it's the holds thread
January 06, 2022, 04:38:40 pm
In terms of condensing, birch ply are the worst on my garage board (I've removed most of them now), followed by beech. Oak not bad, and sapele and tulip totally fine.

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#143 Re: Hold tight, it's the holds thread
January 06, 2022, 04:47:29 pm
Yeah birch ply is awful for it. I dread to think how bad it would have been if I'd gone for the wooden Moonboard set!

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#144 Re: Hold tight, it's the holds thread
January 06, 2022, 05:10:32 pm
Best get some birch ply to use for some Mag lime replicas then, can simulate to whole experience.

On a more related topic does anyone have any good recommendations for nice 2 and possibly 3 finger pockets? I’ve made a couple out of both wood and resin but seem tricky to get right and a fair amount of faf for the resins one to not have them quite right.

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#145 Re: Hold tight, it's the holds thread
January 06, 2022, 05:22:18 pm
I've got some two finger pockets by Crusher, and some by Strongholds (Rick / rginns on here). The crusher ones are a bit deeper but less uncut than the Strongholds, but as Rick made them to my request I'm sure he could do whatever depth and incut is required. All are fairly comfortable.

The Oak pockets (Strongholds) are probably the most susceptible to condensation of all the holds on my board, but the Sapele ones he made me are much more resilient. Crusher don't seem to suffer either fwiw (as long as you don't mind this kind of informal review nonsense!   :))

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#146 Re: Hold tight, it's the holds thread
January 06, 2022, 05:22:42 pm
I can't find them on the website at the mo but James Taylor did some nice wooden pockets. They're reversible and on my 45 they're either good 2 fingers or slopey 3 fingers. He seems pretty flexible so Im sure if you got in touch he'd be able to sort you out. https://taylormadeholds.com/

The crusher pockets look decent too though I haven't tried them myself https://crusherholds.co.uk/product/crusher-pockets-wood-climbing-holds2/

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#147 Re: Hold tight, it's the holds thread
November 11, 2022, 12:35:00 pm
I haven't had a proper session on them yet but just got a pair of the bm  2 finger pockets https://www.beastmaker.co.uk/collections/wooden-hand-holds/products/cnc-holds?variant=39635641499728

They feel pretty good from a quick fondle, nice and rounded and a good combo of feeling quite tricky but not tweaky.

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#148 Re: Hold tight, it's the holds thread
November 15, 2022, 08:26:39 am
I haven't had a proper session on them yet but just got a pair of the bm  2 finger pockets https://www.beastmaker.co.uk/collections/wooden-hand-holds/products/cnc-holds?variant=39635641499728

They feel pretty good from a quick fondle, nice and rounded and a good combo of feeling quite tricky but not tweaky.

Put in a bit more time on these over the weekend and rate them, really comfy. As above, they're pretty rounded which forces you to stay open on them and means you end up doing draggy pocket moves.

In a perfect world it'd be nice if they took up a bit less space on the board.

Bradders

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#149 Re: Hold tight, it's the holds thread
November 15, 2022, 08:55:54 am
£32.50 for a pair!

 

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