UKBouldering.com

Best 7c / 7c+ on Peak Grit? (Read 7266 times)

User deactivated.

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1262
  • Karma: +87/-1
#25 Re: Best 7c / 7c+ on Peak Grit?
March 14, 2021, 10:24:12 pm
Kobe looks immense but it would definitely require a seige for me to have a chance getting up it.

Could anyone advise how steep it is approximately? It's hard to tell from the videos, but I'm trying to figure out if I could set replica moves on my board which is 42 degrees.

Ru

Offline
  • *****
  • Global Moderator
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1936
  • Karma: +120/-0
#26 Re: Best 7c / 7c+ on Peak Grit?
March 14, 2021, 10:37:56 pm
It's one of those problems where grading for the average height breaks down a bit. If you're average height you might just be able to climb it, but it will feel a grade or more harder than if you were a a few inches taller.

Which are the moves requiring reach? I assume it's the starting moves, but it's not that obvious from looking at Mike's video.

Bonjoy

Offline
  • *****
  • Global Moderator
  • forum hero
  • Leafy gent
  • Posts: 9993
  • Karma: +579/-10
#27 Re: Best 7c / 7c+ on Peak Grit?
March 14, 2021, 10:44:53 pm
It's the slap to the big slope with your left hand. Done off a left toehook on the arete/lip (out of shot on vids) by most folk. A fair bit harder if you are totally crucified when you hit the hold, and a lot harder again ( but possible) if you can't reach off the toehook at all. The holds are quite low friction and slopey on this move.
It's a bit less than 30 degrees OHing I reckon.

haydn jones

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1065
  • Karma: +96/-2
#28 Re: Best 7c / 7c+ on Peak Grit?
March 14, 2021, 10:51:13 pm
I was contemplating whether to try this, I'm 5'10 with +1 ape, reckon its 8A for me still jon?

Bonjoy

Offline
  • *****
  • Global Moderator
  • forum hero
  • Leafy gent
  • Posts: 9993
  • Karma: +579/-10
#29 Re: Best 7c / 7c+ on Peak Grit?
March 14, 2021, 10:51:45 pm
 Just watching Mike's vid, the crux is the second hand move. Mike is tall enough to not have to use the toehook as he can keep his feet on a good shelf (may explain the slash grade). The other ascents I've seen had to use a small nubbin 10 inches higher.

Bonjoy

Offline
  • *****
  • Global Moderator
  • forum hero
  • Leafy gent
  • Posts: 9993
  • Karma: +579/-10
#30 Re: Best 7c / 7c+ on Peak Grit?
March 14, 2021, 10:54:35 pm
I was contemplating whether to try this, I'm 5'10 with +1 ape, reckon its 8A for me still jon?
I think you'll just about fit it without feeling demoralising cheated by your lack of reach. Deffo worth a go. I'd guess it'll feel right at the grade.

monkey boy

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1203
  • Karma: +65/-0
#31 Re: Best 7c / 7c+ on Peak Grit?
March 15, 2021, 08:32:29 am
I did the same/similar beta as Ned for this, which felt around 8A. I think most of the others who have done it haven't bothered with the bicycle out left for the end or the toe hook at the start. It's a great problem, if you have the span or the muscles to not need the span :lol:


El Mocho

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Posts: 646
  • Karma: +151/-1
#32 Re: Best 7c / 7c+ on Peak Grit?
March 15, 2021, 09:48:39 am
I did the move with a high left heel, I'm 5'5'' with a positive ape but not sure how much. Move felt ok and I assumed I'd get close to the problem but then never managed the move again... Now that you've got me thinking about it I'm keen to go back. Def felt more like 8A than less

Stu Littlefair

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1861
  • Karma: +287/-2
    • http://www.darkpeakimages.co.uk
#33 Re: Best 7c / 7c+ on Peak Grit?
March 15, 2021, 10:21:42 am
Like Ben I tried a high left heel, unlike Ben it felt desperate, at 5'6" and a neutral ape index. I can physically reach between the two holds but the move itself felt a long way off.

cowboyhat

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1505
  • Karma: +128/-5
#34 Re: Best 7c / 7c+ on Peak Grit?
March 16, 2021, 05:40:05 pm


That's thirty minutes away. I'll be there in ten

 

SimplePortal 2.3.7 © 2008-2024, SimplePortal